how to convert cam lift?

evoX2

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how to convert cam lift??

from this:

INTAKE: Duration 247’ @ 0.050” Lift 0.462”
EXHAUST: Duration 239’ @ 0.050” Lift 0.420”

into: (something with 1mm)

INTAKE lift - 11.5 mm, duration 240 @1mm
EXHAUST lift - 10.5mm, duration 235 @1mm

thanks!
 
Okay.. here's the thread.. with detailed information

http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/showthread.php?t=127765&

Do post there if you find any of the information misleading.. I researched it carefully, and the information checks out.. so hope that helps.

One is measurement by americans, they adopt the .050" valve lift measurement.
another is Japanese, they measure using 1mm of valve lift

So, duration for the cams for the japanese is slightly different than americans.. (e.g. TODA vs. CROWER.)

Read the rest and ask if you think some of the info is misleading.
 
thanks for the info.

so 0.050" convert to 1.27mm but then there is no way to calculate (formule??) to convert into 1mm lift?? how to compare american cam & jap cam accurately?
 
cannot.. it's really useless anyway, since your rocker arm wear will reduce the duration anyway. A lot of factors go into getting that ACTUAL duration number, including if you've ground the valve seats before, etc. etc. The manufacturer measures the duration on a machine, that may or may not replicate the actual engine enviroment...

What you can do is compare it in the sense that you will see that if crower have the same duration number than the japanese, then you can consider it as having a slightly higher duration than that japanese cam. Normally you'd notice by now that the americans seems to have smaller duration numbers than japanese.

Anyway, when talking about duration numbers.. read the paper that comes with the cam.. some of the advertised duration is at 0mm lift, so it not really an accurate way to gauge exactly what of duration the cam has.

Thing is.. no one really know exactly how much duration to get peak power at XXXX rpm, unless by experimentation, due to various factors that affect duration and lift (that rocker arm wear, valvetrain works factor again). The formula helps you make an educated guess, but flow is not really calculate-able.

Higher durations better power at higher end of the RPM range... so if you buy a cam that the manufacturer CLAIMS makes +30hp at 9.5K rpm, and you plonk it in a B20B rev limited to 8K rpm.. you'd probably not be making power efficiently, and power gains will be minimal, if any.

That's why crower does make custom grinds for those people that really have the money to try out a couple of cams and make a closer estimate to what kinds of cam they need.

If you're still wondering what cam to use, email/call crower.. they can help give suggestions too.

Toda and other japanese company also.. but I don't know if they reply to english speaking customers. I didn't get a reply when I sent an email in english.. (O_o)
 
Last edited:
shiro, u speak japanese right? hehe...

btw will jun/toda/crower "stage 2" cam causing bad idling? can the ori ecu be rechipped to have rev cut at 9k rpm? beside valve springs & retainers, what else must be changed in order to with stand higher cam? ori timing belt can tahan?
 
Speak.. not read... so kanji is out of the question.. a little hiragana and katakana, but little else. So I'm illiterate in japanese. Even speaking wise oso.. very limited vocabulary lah..

performance cams needs better stiffer valves springs to prevent valve float at high rpm. That one discussed to death already.. search for one of the older threads.

The cam stages.. well.. I'm not sure how bad is the second stage, since I've not seen a honda that idles really badly even on stage 3/type 3s. Depends on how you define 'bad idling'.

Sure, it idles rougher, but not so extreme like non cam-switching/phasing systems on modified cams..

I think the only rough idling hondas you'll see are the ones running on VTEC killer cams.
 

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