hondata

[ioki]

enquiry,
im getting abit of confusing ere.
as per tittle
whats the difference between the Hondata S300 VS Hondata S300J .
Please enlighten me, i might be purchasing 1 soon. thanx to all zthians

:hmmmm:

 

[ioki]

any answers out there?

 

[mADmAN]

BUMP!

wanna know the answers too...

 

[BE5RSK]

If not mistaken, it just the ECU casing between the JDM ECU and non-JDM ecu. Some said, the size is slightly different between the JDM ecu compare to non-JDM.
Thus, S300j was made using the original JDM ecu, and S300 was made based on non-JDM ecu.
By the way, i'm not sure if there is any difference in term of performance between this two version.:hmmmm:

 

[ioki]

that confuse the consumer. :-P hahahaha
the latest info i got also as what bro BE5RSK said the ECU casing for JDM and non JDM

NEED MOAAAARRRRR input!

 

[LOPI]

Although they appear different, the S300 and S300J boards operate the same way. There are no special settings in SManager, and the same calibration loaded into the two different style ECUs will behave identically.

Notes:
1. The JDM ECU does not support the PCS (purge control) output. The VTP (VTEC pressure) input will work.
2. The S300J takes approximately 3 seconds longer to upload the first time.
3. Datalogging speeds are similar.
4. Datalogging memory is the same (16 mbit / 2 MB)

---------- Post added at 10:05 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:03 AM ----------

u can refer to s300

 

[E-Tech]

It supports whatever you original ecu can do.
JDM - square type P30/P08... S300j
US- rectangle type P29/p91.. S300

If you are buying the hondata brd only the must match you ecu.
If not will not fit inside the ecu.

If buy ready unit then both can use.

 

[stingg]

S300 is for Rectangular ecu
S300J is for square ecu

If buy wrong no worries also, last time no S300J so I bought the S300 to fit into the square ecu, you will need to relocate the knock sensor board outside to fit it though.

If on budget can consider Ostrich/Ectune combination

 

[BE5RSK]

Bro Stingg,

Mind to share with us your experience of using hondata? How it performs? Also your list of mod-on/bolt-on stuffs..

A little bit of technical-technical jargon also no problem...

p/s: Sori bro ioki for hijacking your thread a bit

 

[Sil80-13]

Currently I am using E-Manage on my B18C. If change to Hondata, will it improve alot interms of engine performance (HP)?

 

[arrowhead]

hondata rawks.... altho i've never used it before!

 

[stingg]

After installing Hondata, you basically convert your ecu to become standalone. The advantage is you retain stock sensors instead of requiring other sensors such as Motec. I'm actually very happy with the unit until I fried it as I want to install to a P28 (Rectangular ECU) as only Rectangular ECU support PWM for Boost control(I want to boost by gear). Other nice feature you can have is Launch Control, Use check light as shift light, Auto aircond shutoff at preset RPM or Throttle position. Only disadvantage is its very expensive, I bought it when it just came out and its priced at USD599 and custom tax me 40% :(

After I fried the S300 I go for Ostrich(USD175) + CROME(Free), then to ECTUNE(USD199). Ectune + Ostrich basically have the same feature as hondata except they dont have internal datalogging, you will need to plug it to yr computer to datalog.

My mod is B16A with GT35R, with all the necessary stuff for a turbo...

---------- Post added at 11:36 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:16 AM ----------

Forgot to add. DO NOT install Hondata/Ectune without a wideband sensor. You need to get it tuned immediately after installation.

Its either you install the hondata at a tuner shop and get it tuned immediately or install a wideband first, then install hondata then tune it yourself.

I installed LC-1 first and when I put in Hondata with their base map, I found that its running super rich (10.X AFR) at idle. Your piston ring will wear out prematurely if running at the condition.