Grounding Kit

[votech]

Originally posted by cochise@Apr 20 2005, 04:15
Cool website c-ground..cheers dude https://www.zerotohundred.com/forums/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif alt='cool.gif' /> ...

anyway all the sifu sifu,
I am driving a Iswara A/B...does it need grounding and if so, wat kind of grounding needed (i.e. basic, moderate, ultimate)...i am planning to DIY...also, u know the connector on the battery to all the grounding cables, mind sharing the cool idea from all the sifu's on where to get it or using wat alternatives/material/method to come out with one... https://www.zerotohundred.com/forums/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif alt='biggrin.gif' />

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get from c-ground...save ur time and headache to source for the material.

If wanna DIY, then the material might be as following:

1) Minimum 8Awg power amp cable
2) Suitable cable lug
3) Crimping tools or soldering tools or anyway to tightly hold the cable lug to the cable end
4) Heat shrink tubing (optional but its goot to have them)
5) Copper plate, copper block, metal plate or other conductive material that can be used as the distribution block. (use a good one or dun use it at all)
6) Cable ties (to tidy up the installation)


other tools that u need might be cable cutter/stripper and anything u can think off to aid u in the DIY.

 

[c-ground]

Originally posted by votech@ Today, 12:59 PM
5) Copper plate, copper block, metal plate or other conductive material that can be used as the distribution block. (use a good one or dun use it at all)

Yes, agree! That's why c-ground didn't come out with the block.

cochise,

sorry for not noticing you in here. Come to our thread and we can discuss abuout it: Custom Grounding Cable/ COmplete Grounding Kit

Our recommendation: Moderate 2.
Reason: we assume that your car is a few years old (correct us if we were wrong). Moderate 2 grounds your alternator, front bulk head and chassis using a thick 4awg cable, your engine head, firewall and distributor using a smaller 8awg cable.

Little advise: If you intent to DIY, make sure you get the good cable, not the RM3.50/m 8awg from Jln Pasar. Good lug, not the RM0.30 cast tin lug, use a crimping tool, not hammer or plier, use heat shrink tube as insulator, not vinyl tape for wiring.

Hehe!! might as well get it the professional. UGPM. :)

 

[votech]

Originally posted by c-ground@Apr 20 2005, 14:42
use a crimping tool, not hammer or plier

Hahaha...i still remember this one...last year during Mid Autumn TT in PD...someone hammered it for my DIY... :lol: and i have to throw them away now...

 

[jaywat]

I got crimping tool, but for very small wire le..e.g: 22-18, 16-14 ..etc...can get bigger one?? :huh:

Where to get the huge cable lugs for 4awg cable lar??? :blink:

 

[khguan]

those huge ones for 4GA wire will be damn expensive... i saw one at jalan pasar... bout rm180.. just to crimp 4GA cables...

 

[votech]

Originally posted by jaywat@Apr 21 2005, 00:07
I got crimping tool, but for very small wire le..e.g: 22-18, 16-14 ..etc...can get bigger one?? https://www.zerotohundred.com/forums/style_emoticons/default/huh.gif alt='huh.gif' />

Where to get the huge cable lugs for 4awg cable lar??? https://www.zerotohundred.com/forums/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif alt='blink.gif' />

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sure got...there's two type for such big cable...either dedicated size plus lug type or "die" changeable type where the "die" can be changed to cater different type of lug and some size variation however this type of crimping tool usually cost around 1k or more without the "die". Anyway, the last resort for the 4awg cable could be using soldering technique.

 

[drexchan]

The die-changeable crimping tool is actually quite cheap but the size is limited. The die can be changed for different purposes, some for lugs, some for other type of connection. A good one for size below 8awg is about RM50.

I got mine cheapalak at RM22, not changeable and only 1 pivot. A good one should have 2 pivots to ease the crimping process. You need extra energy to crimp with a 1-pivot tool..

 

[khguan]

arrgghh!!

drex... my crimper... cant crimp my lugs.. looks like i got de wrong wan... but it can change de die... will go n look for it.. de next time i go jalan pasar...

sigh....

 

[jaywat]

So many story behind the 4awg cable and it's lug...DIY rulez :D

 

[drexchan]

Originally posted by khguan@Apr 22 2005, 00:54
arrgghh!!
drex... my crimper... cant crimp my lugs.. looks like i got de wrong wan... but it can change de die... will go n look for it.. de next time i go jalan pasar...

Told you... haha!! So you need to borrow from me or not?

 

[khguan]

no need lar... i no more wires to crimp... now wait for u to ask for me bout de cables i told u...

 

[votech]

Originally posted by drexchan@Apr 21 2005, 10:12
The die-changeable crimping tool is actually quite cheap but the size is limited. The die can be changed for different purposes, some for lugs, some for other type of connection. A good one for size below 8awg is about RM50.

I got mine cheapalak at RM22, not changeable and only 1 pivot. A good one should have 2 pivots to ease the crimping process. You need extra energy to crimp with a 1-pivot tool..

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I think should have cheap one. but not sure where to get those but in my factory...found two which cost more than one K...not sure what's the difference though but its damn huge...hahah...also heavy lah...perhaps designed for big cables.

 

[c-ground]

c-ground is ready to help in-case anyone neet a semi-finish grounding set. Just measure the length you need for each point, send us an inquiry, state:

1. Number of cable needed (literaly, unlimited)
2. Length of each cable (1', 1.5', 2', 2.5'....... to 5')
3. Size of each cable (8awg and 4awg)
4. Type of lugs (zinc-plated or gold-plated copper lugs)
5. Color (sorry.. only red, will source out other color with reasonable price in the future)
6. A brief description of the layout you intended to do (i.e., from which point to which point, what size for point A, what size for point B.)

We'll go through your plan and give reasonable comment and share what we know. A very competitive price will be quoted. Your kit will be ready in accordance to your preferance, and the installation is free.

Doesn't this plan sounds nice? Let's work together!!

 

[Choon]

hey i wanna ask sumthing...

last few days, i DIY a nissan 120Y grounding.. before i start grounding, i check the points i wanna ground wit a digital multimeter (from the point to the negative terminal of the batt).. it's just few hundred micro amps the max.. is it the real grounding point? i mean is this wat a real grounding point shud be?

if it is, why do v need such thick wires to let the current flow.. i noe thicker wires will have less resistance but to a few hundred micro amps, thick wires seem to overkill...

if it's not, then wat will be the current reading?

i've tried a few points which creates sparks.. which means high current is flowing.. but i guess i was just short circuiting it coz the engine die off when i connect that part for sum time...

:)

 

[c-ground]

U should measure the resistance between the points, not the ampere flowing through it. I'm curious how do u measure the ampere by using a digital multimeter? In order to measure ampere, u need to measure in series.

 

[votech]

Originally posted by Choon@Apr 23 2005, 09:15
hey i wanna ask sumthing...

last few days, i DIY a nissan 120Y grounding.. before i start grounding, i check the points i wanna ground wit a digital multimeter (from the point to the negative terminal of the batt).. it's just few hundred micro amps the max.. is it the real grounding point? i mean is this wat a real grounding point shud be?

if it is, why do v need such thick wires to let the current flow.. i noe thicker wires will have less resistance but to a few hundred micro amps, thick wires seem to overkill...

if it's not, then wat will be the current reading?

i've tried a few points which creates sparks.. which means high current is flowing.. but i guess i was just short circuiting it coz the engine die off when i connect that part for sum time...

https://www.zerotohundred.com/forums/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif alt='smile.gif' />

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measure the voltage drop.

if the grounding is effective, the voltage drop from two points, lets say point A to point B will lower than previous. Why i say voltage drop and not resistance? Logically, if u add another cable on a conducting path, the resistance paralleled will of course be lower (common sense and fact) however not necessary it will reduce to voltage drop due to other factor like inductance, reactance and perhaps capacitance. Less voltage drop across the conducting part means more voltage available to the load. So, measure the voltage drop to check the effectiveness. Anyway, dun expect the voltage drop before and after to be a few volts difference, it may be just a couple of millivolts different to maybe up to a few hundreds of millivolts.

 

[khguan]

yep... measuring de voltage drop is more appropriate...

 

[Choon]

hey.. can la..

just connect directly to the points la.. the battery terminal and the contact points.. i measure it b4 connecting the wires.. and wat for measure resistance?

votech, if it is only few milivolts, is it necessary to get such a thick and expensive wire?

 

[c-ground]

hey.. can la..

just connect directly to the points la.. the battery terminal and the contact points.. i measure it b4 connecting the wires..

As mentioned, current can only be measured in series, not parallel. What for measuring the current? Measure the Voltage before and after, then compute the voltage drop.

 

[c-ground]

Originally posted by Choon
i've tried a few points which creates sparks.. which means high current is flowing.. but i guess i was just short circuiting it coz the engine die off when i connect that part for sum time...

Perhaps, you should check whether your DMM is spoilt due to the current spike. I supposed you mean connecting the DMM between the point and the +ve terminal. No, this is not the way to measure the current.