Fully utilise Haltech E6X

respect for people who open up business as a tuner and engine builder. although the profit is good, but the hassle, not much can take it... returning customers as differant pl had differant expectation .. in short, its hell alot of trouble. business hard to do these days.

thats why i dont even take cars to tune anymore beside my own... when customer car runs well , they will say its their own tune and the tuner only help them to key in n touch up here and there.

and if the car start to missfiring a little at idle, they say tuner setting not chun... only to find out that they didnt change plugs since the last 60k km and the gaps goes DO RE MI.

good things pl keep to themselve but bad things really cock up real fast
 
so tell us..any other workshops NEVER had an engine blow on dyno ?

so i wonder if a PS tuner ever uses a dyno and wide band lambda to tune ? or by using 'butt' feeling ratio ?

there were many, but dis particular shop has the most dat ive seen and heard so far. even millennium had problems on the dyno wit their own cars, but not as much ler. iam just stating facts here, nuthing biased.

surely ler wideband, what ler u, u dont always need a dyno for a tune up. nowadays, tuner kampung pun dah pakai wideband:sleep:

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so tell us..any other workshops NEVER had an engine blow on dyno ?

so i wonder if a PS tuner ever uses a dyno and wide band lambda to tune ? or by using 'butt' feeling ratio ?

scenario 1 :
engine is in bad shape , customer wants a tune

scenario 2 :
engine already has damages such as broken internals but not severe n detectable by noise or smoke , car goes on dyno

scenario 3 :
customer lies about the specifications of the car when going on dyno or their own mech did not tell the truth, piston inside high comp n/a , mentioned to tuner low comp

scenario 4 :
oiling system of the engine is not good, wear of bearings or not sufficient oil supply , tuner cant be taking his time to check on all this, if it blows it blows.

scenario 5 (experienced it myself) :
did not tighten vacuum hose to wastegate properly , endded up overboosting blowing the engine by 24hrs of building it.

got so many more to go on :D , 1st things b4 going on the dyno , ensure ur car is healthy :D
and lastly, most of the engine do break on the dyno , because the tuner pushes the car for the best performance, isnt that the reason u wanted the tune right ? , if u dint build it properly, then its meant to break :) , dnt blaim the tuner, if you did not want it to break easy, tell the tuner, i jst want a moderate tune , boost 0.3bar enuff , safe fuel wakakakaka

u didnt mention anything about new engine internals, newly rebuilt engine by a reputable workshop, and blown to bits after 20mins being tuned. den whose fault is dat really? ur case studies are biased towards sumone or sumthing, suggesting dat the customer will always at fault. there are sum percentage dat its the tuner's fault, aint it? fyi, in dis case study, i was there and the engine showed nuthing wrong when it went up d dyno for a tune up, it was okie during the initial tune up but before the session ended the car had to be pushed outta the shop and towed back. i know dis isnt the place for dis but id really appreciate sum opinion
 
there were many, but dis particular shop has the most dat ive seen and heard so far. even millennium had problems on the dyno wit their own cars, but not as much ler. iam just stating facts here, nuthing biased.

surely ler wideband, what ler u, u dont always need a dyno for a tune up. nowadays, tuner kampung pun dah pakai wideband:sleep:

Bump:



u didnt mention anything about new engine internals, newly rebuilt engine by a reputable workshop, and blown to bits after 20mins being tuned. den whose fault is dat really? ur case studies are biased towards sumone or sumthing, suggesting dat the customer will always at fault. there are sum percentage dat its the tuner's fault, aint it? fyi, in dis case study, i was there and the engine showed nuthing wrong when it went up d dyno for a tune up, it was okie during the initial tune up but before the session ended the car had to be pushed outta the shop and towed back. i know dis isnt the place for dis but id really appreciate sum opinion

yeaps , thts the example tht the problem is in the customers side not the tuners side , :)
tuners are also humans, so they will make mistakes :)
 
there were many, but dis particular shop has the most dat ive seen and heard so far. even millennium had problems on the dyno wit their own cars, but not as much ler. iam just stating facts here, nuthing biased.

let's just ask how do you quantify "the most i've seen and heard so far.." versus other so called shops ? By standing there everyday and counting all the cars going in and out ? or again..by "feeling" ? Again you words are biased if it wasn't you wouldn't have said something like this without proper numbers and facts...
 
I think we need to be clear whose make the mistake that end up with busted engine.
ECU/Standalone normally will not make the engine blown if the tuner know what he/she is doing. Every tuner know the basic thing about knocking and pinging that will cause the engine need another rebuild. If the engine is in good health and the tuning is done without pinging and knocking it will last. Sometimes the engine builder/owner over estimated their engine capability end up with the tuner reputation at lost.
 
once the thing is damage.. must open up and see what is the damage. it will clearly show what is the caused. not by claim by the tuner, user, passer-by or another mechanic
 
leo.. :sleep:

let's meet and chat with Toby himself...
 
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leo.. :sleep:

let's meet and chat with Toby himself...

yeah best meet toby in your haltech i agree with sdf..
whatever it is..dont go to 3rdgearhouse for haltech tuning or infact any tuning...
he is just a con man! dont know wtf his followers wasting thier time with him..and i dont know why still people wasting thier time giving him money for a pack of crap.
 
yeah best meet toby in your haltech i agree with sdf..
whatever it is..dont go to 3rdgearhouse for haltech tuning or infact any tuning...
he is just a con man! dont know wtf his followers wasting thier time with him..and i dont know why still people wasting thier time giving him money for a pack of crap.

this guy always talk about 3rd gear everywhere he goes...hmmmm free advertising...keep it up...surely you and your kroni feel threatened because now he bring in new series of haltech in the market....dont gaduh2 but compete in the professional way.....peace...
 
honestly, i m GT Auto customer and quite satisfied with his workmanship eventhough charges slightly higher......but we still need to respect other workshops who do provide their own specialties....PEACE for the sake of motorsports!!!
 
bro spuzzle.. e6x is considered as closed loop stand alone rite?
How does diz effect ur car's performance? I am really interested about haltech's line up and would personally prefer the e6X/e6K series when i upgrade.
Does it still uses all the oem sensors & can a custom harness be made (to tidy up engine bay)?

In anybod's opinion how do u rate/compare E6X wit mtech LT10?
Newbie la bro.. :hmmmm:
 
amel666, i couldnt answer your question coz i m new too
if i not mistaken, it is open loop unless o2 sensor applied for close loop......anyone can help?

after installing ems and tune, the performance definitely different.....u can feel the force compare to stock ecu
 
yaa.. e6x can be operate in close loop..

stock narrowband o2 sensor can be use, just connect to haltech... if use plug & play hardness, no need to do wiring, just enable o2 close loop at halwinX software .. but need to configure it lah, such as target mV & etc.. if use hicam, cannot close loop at idle, so set min rpm tu 2000rpm.. coz tuning idle for hicam need a bit rich ..

for the antilag system... it can be configure to be launch control or antilag... just do some configuration in halwinx it will effect differently..

antilag setup:
-connect a switch to AUX.IN (pin 28), this switch to activate antilag system
-at halwinx, go to SETUP-->Input/Output Setup-->Aux in funtion = set to ANTILAG-Input
-connect a solenoid valve to PWM.OUT4 (pin 24) . normally out4 free. if it have been use, change 1 or 2 or 3... but dun disable radiator fan control lah.. hehe ( solenoid valve is use to supply air to engine while throttle is close )
-at halwinx, go to Options-->PWN & dig out option--> tick at PWM4 enable --> select Antilag Switch , than click properties.. enable zero tps only than configure retard ign value, % increase fuel & etc...
-enjoy antilag system..

For launch control
-same as above just need to configure like below
--at halwinx, go to Options-->PWN & dig out option--> tick at PWM4 enable --> select Antilag Switch , than click properties.. disable zero tps only than configure retard ign value, % increase fuel , On RPM ( put 5000rpm if wanna launch at that rpm) & etc

another function is flat shift (change gear while full throttle)
-connect a clutch switch to AUX.IN (pin 28), this switch need to install at clutch paddle.. so when you press clutch, flat shift system will activate
-at halwinx, go to SETUP-->Input/Output Setup-->Aux in funtion = set to flat shift
-this no need to configure.. enjoy flat shift
 
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bro spuzzle.. e6x is considered as closed loop stand alone rite?
How does diz effect ur car's performance? I am really interested about haltech's line up and would personally prefer the e6X/e6K series when i upgrade.
Does it still uses all the oem sensors & can a custom harness be made (to tidy up engine bay)?

In anybod's opinion how do u rate/compare E6X wit mtech LT10?
Newbie la bro.. :hmmmm:

Haltech ecm have the provision to function in close loop provided that you have the appointed sensors fitted into the circuit. It just function during the idling and cruising (customisable) so as to make the fuel consumption more economic. Most of the oem sensors can be use when installing haltech.

Comparison between E6X and MT LT10 depends on what you like. Haltech is more precise in tuning point and have that close loop facility. It's more complicated to tune and will be very slow to newbie tuner.

On the other hand MT LT10 is a simple gadget to tune and is good for newbies tuner to learn for its simplicity. It doesn't have any close loop and tuning point are very course. So, if you are not particular about precision tuning, MT is the gadget to choose. It can still makes you car fly. Use of the handset is very handy indeed especially when you need to do some minor touch up during an event. Laptops are bulky.

amel666, i couldnt answer your question coz i m new too
if i not mistaken, it is open loop unless o2 sensor applied for close loop......anyone can help?

after installing ems and tune, the performance definitely different.....u can feel the force compare to stock ecu

Stock ecu was designed for general purpose implementation while those standalones are tuned on individual basis mostly with power generation in mind. Economic are secondary.
 
nan 83,
i am now using one input for solenoid to control boost.....is there any other input for antilag and launch control?
this is the first time i heard about flat shift.....how can an ecu control mechanicals? can elaborate more

cipan aka ecu sifu,
my e6x using pnp harness, how to determine if it still using stock sensors or not? the only sensor i can see newly installed is the air temp sensor near to throttle body.
my idling sometimes do fluctuate after high rev, is it open loop systems?
fuel consumption are good with rm70 for 320kms urban
 
You have to physically take a look inside your engine bay. Usually installers do use the existing oem sensors for simplicity and cost factors. Air temp sensor have to be fitted if your engine don't have one. 4G63 is an example that have the Air temp sensor inside the Air flow meter. Since most people wants the Air flow to be deleted, the air temp sensor have to be fitted externally. You can actually delete this sensor too but you have to do some configuration inside the software. Anyway, even the famous installer/tuner don't even touch the air temp compensation in their tune. Maybe they don't understand or just don't bother about it since it works ok with the engine they tune. Boost control, antilag, launch and flatshift are 4 separate functions. Explore the software. They are available in E6X.
 
nan 83,
i am now using one input for solenoid to control boost.....is there any other input for antilag and launch control?
this is the first time i heard about flat shift.....how can an ecu control mechanicals? can elaborate more

cipan aka ecu sifu,
my e6x using pnp harness, how to determine if it still using stock sensors or not? the only sensor i can see newly installed is the air temp sensor near to throttle body.
my idling sometimes do fluctuate after high rev, is it open loop systems?
fuel consumption are good with rm70 for 320kms urban

for boost control...

do u use trim module + wastgate solenoid

or just wastegate solenoid only..

trim module connected to trim input ( pin 26 ground , pin 10 trim signal , pin 18 5v supply)
solenoid connected to pwm output#1 - 4 ...

antilag, launch control & flatshift use Aux in (pin 28)
anti-lag air bypass solenoid ise pwm output#1-#4

boost control not using aux in ... so no prob lah...
________________________________________________

for flatshift

what do you mean by control mechanicals??
it not operate like dogbox gear lah... that one no need to press clutch

flat shift operating is simple... switch that locate at clutch paddle will tell ecu whan you press the clutch... so ecu retard ignition timing to 15° ATDC, allowing the throttle to be held wide open whilst changing gears. This reduces engine deceleration so gear changes will be quicker, but it also prevents the engine from over-revving when the clutch is disengaged. The driver normally depresses the switch just as they are goingto disengage the clutch and then releases the switch just after the clutch is re-engaged. The driver can therefore keep the throttle wide open throughout the gear change.

_______________________________________________

normally for pnp hardness, stock sensor that use it coolent temp, cam or crank sensor, o2 sensor, throttle position.... haltech sensor just map & air temp

stock sensor not use, maf sensor, knock sensor...

just open your halwinx and see yr tuner configure or not o2 close loop funtion...

air temp correction map for fuel & ign .... need to check oso.. tuner tune it or not... if not waste of money only buy that sensor... just to take data for log ok lah...
air temp correction map hard oso to fully tune... need to check fuel & ign at sunny day, night, in rain.... coz the intake temp depend on ambient temperature oso... hi boost oso increase temp...
normally tuner will just assume the map... agak2 only... not fully tune lah

same oso for cold start.... tuner cannot fully tune oso... it take time, to cool back the engine 2-3 times...
 

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