D16 Mod

[jofunky]

Not much ppl mod D series here la...not like others place still got pletty a lot parts for D series... not much garage do the D series here..Not really want to race la..is just the stock engine are totally sucks..i just want to get better performance than the stock..... i prefer LPT..i think thats the best idea and easy to get the horse..is just dont know which garage they do it....

 

[aramis]

u can customise a LPT for your car, dont have to go get those from Apexi, HKS and etc...

probably can be done in around Rm3k. ;)

 

[aramis]

BTW, what's your budget like?

 

[jofunky]

about 2 - 3k

 

[aramis]

Originally posted by jofunky@Jan 11 2005, 14:34
about 2 - 3k

can probably do a custom turbo kit for your car... ;)

This is the turbo part list, if you are interested. ;)
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Turbocharger - (can be small/large whatever you want) some are easier then others. I personally like using T3 and Mitsu turbos. They have worked great for me.

Manifold - HF/STD/CX Factory Honda Manifolds can be used with an adapter plate, or you can simply go out and buy a Turbo Manifold from Drag/Greddy/HKS.

Adapter Plate - Each plate is a bit differnt depending on the turbocharger, You can simply make this yourself or take it to a machine shop and get one made. I have made 2 styles of plates a T-3 plate and T25/14b plate.

Downpipe - This is where picking a good turbocharger gets tough, finding a turbo that has the downpipe exhaust flange aimed in a good spot for the downpipe. (for a smooth bend) Doing test fits are very important, take the exhaust manifold off your car and just set the turbo in the engine bay and visualize how the downpipe can be made. Some turbos are damn near impossible to use. Once you have selected a good turbo, I recommend a 2.5 inch downpipe any decent exhaust shop can do this for you. Mandrel bends are very nice to use also.

Intercooler - This is entirely up to you. You dont have to have a intercooler but it keeps the IC temps down a lesser chance of detonation. First take off your front bumper and see how much room you got up their. Take good measurements and visualize where the charge pipes where go. Sometimes alot of cutting/hacking is involved when doing this. The starion/conquest intercooler are great to use for custom projects like this. They can easily be modified and look great! Sometimes they can be a bit tough to find at a decent price.

BOV - I highly recommend a BOV, without one you get a really shitty sound. Not only does this sound bad, but once you hit higher levels of boost it will do damage to your turbocharger. Compressor Surge, once the throttle body closes and the charge lines still have pressure they back-feed to the turbocharge and try to spin it backwards. DSM bov's are easy to find, cheap and work great! Just about any BOV will work, even the really inexpensive Bosch BOV's that are very quiet.

Brass T - A Brass T will hook up on the back off the block 1/8npt. a 3 way splitter will have to be used. 1 for your stock Oil Pressure Gauge, 1 for your Oil feed line (1/4 barb fitting) and the other to a brass extension from the block. I like to use High pressure line from Napa (350psi Tranny line 5/16) about 4.5 feet you will need. I also flare the fitting on the turbo side and double hose clamp it. For oil return, you will have to install a fitting in your oil pan and create a return line for oil drainage from the turbo. Its pretty easy to do.

Coolant lines - For Coolant lines I like to use just normal fuel line. You will need around 7.5 feet total. Also get a couple splitters so you can tap into your cooling sytem somewhere. I like to use the throttle body coolant bypass hoses for this.

Charge Pipes - This can be alot of differnt things. Using factory DSM pipes chopped up works really good. Exhaust/Radiator hoses/PVC pipe I have seen alot of things used for this, they all work.

Gauges - I recommend at least a boost gauge, but a Air/Fuel gauge is very nice to have, especially when trying to tune your car.

Engine Managemnt - Turbocharging a car is not rocket science, Engine management is very important in a good running forced inducted Honda/Acura. This is where I have lacked in my past setups causing alot of blown motors.

Best - Standalone Fuel Managment/ AEM EMS / Hondata / Zdyne / Accel DFI / Speedpro / TEC II / Motec / Haltech. and I am sure their are others. Most systems cost over 1000 bucks. Larger injectors are used. Fuel/Spark Maps can be changed anyway you want them. Vtec/Nos control whatever these systems do it all! You can run alot of boost on a stock bottom end with a standalone system, Detonation is not a problem unless you dont know how to tune with them.

Good - A rising Rate regulator/larger injectors/ for fuel and MSD 6btm for Spark will let you run a pretty healthy amount of boost on a stock motor. Tuning a system like this can be a bit tricky but it can be done. Check valves or Missing link will also have to be installed to hide boost from the stock ECU, so it does not throw a check engine light.


Fair - Rising rate regulator on Stock injectors with nothing else will let you run around 5-7psi. I would keep a close eye on your air/fuel gauge to make sure your not detonating.

None - It can be done, but not recommend at all. Back your timing down a few degrees, get 1 step colder plugs, buy high oct fuel all the time, a large front mount IC will be needed. Run a maxium of 5 psi.

 

[iceman401]

auto to manual transmission swap can use back the drive shaft?