Custom vented hood for more cooling ?

Hehehe, i am going for low profile and functional venting. I can go with another style of venting as long as i can draw the hot air out. We actually drove without hood once at very fast RPMs, temperature stays still ! Therefore can quite confirm we need some vents on the hood.

Thanks,
Ken
Not only the hood, even my forester comes without the plastic engine cover. Seems it keeps the heat in......lol
 

Something like this would be nice and low profile, eventhough its on an E36.
jonsibal_GTS_Hood11_001.jpg
 
Turbo engine need oil cooler, my stock VR engine already equip with one......

That is effectively bringing the engine oil down right ? Just curious, how come stock 1JZ didn't equip with oil coolers in the Crown halfcut i bought.

Not only the hood, even my forester comes without the plastic engine cover. Seems it keeps the heat in......lol

LOL stock 1JZ has no cover or whatsoever, not even heatshield on the turbo manifold. Imagine the heat dispersed during high speed runs ...

Thanks,
Ken
 
Dear All,

As some of you may know, i just converted a BMW E46 with 1jz engine, due to i am getting more and more familiar with the new characteristics of the car and i have been pushing it a lot. Now i've noticed, whenever i floor it hard and fast, the water temp will raise a little over the mid mark, upon slowing down, it will return to below middle. Have asked the mechanic that did the conversion, he said its very normal because its a turbo engine, when push hard thus will hot a little, plus recently the weather is crazily hot.

With skepticism, asked another mechanic which i never dealt with before, he mentioned the samething as he's thought its quite normal, however, he gave some suggestion on venting the hood and side fender for hot air to exit faster.

Therefore here comes this discussion, how effective is it to vent my car's body parts, or i should just get a low temperature thermostat and call it a day ?

Thanks,
Ken


1- do you still have fully stock radiator and bumper ventipation shroud?(the cover that channel all air straight into radiator)
Usually looks like some plastic plate and shapes that can throw away that have great effect in cooling...
Adding a radiator cooling plate on top of its also help (if there is gaps between radiator and the body frame)

2- does the temp kept climbing all the way to redline? Or it just hover above middle mark?

This is good reason people installing aftermarket water temp gauge to read exact number of water temp.. anything below 98 degree C while travelling at high boost and high speed is ok ish...

As comparison, my car when climbing genting a few time reaching temp 102degree C due to enough speed (short acceleration burst and stuck behind slow traffic)

Another view is..during summer heatwave like nowadays where ambient temp reaching 40degree C, crusing at highways following slow moving traffic in middle lane on hot afternoon also my water temp reaching 96-98degree C... Only when i switch into faster lane to get better air cooling wth open roads, the water temp dropping back to sub 90degree during cruising...


Then my additional effort to reduce that heat management inside engine bay... More ventilation holes! Especially when car is stationary during idle in traffic..the theory is hot air moving up.. instead of forced going down (in stock car air management)...

Opening vents hole up in the bonet is the oreferred method anyway...

But just make sure your thermostat, better coolant, fan and radiator condition is perfect as well as your thermostat...
PicsArt_03-26-05.45.30.jpg
 
That is effectively bringing the engine oil down right ? Just curious, how come stock 1JZ didn't equip with oil coolers in the Crown halfcut i bought.



Thanks,
Ken


Stock oil cooler got 2 types..

1- the usual small radiator type design (air to oil cooler)

2- something does not look like a radiator..but is still the oil cooler... Like the atf cooler that sitting at the bottom of radistor in automatic cars..

3- a cylinder type of thing that usually sandwiched between oil filter and engine block that have small coolant pipe running through it... This is more common on oem turbo car method for cooling the engine oil... As well as continental method of cooling their gearbox oil (sandwiched onto gearbox instead)
 
That is effectively bringing the engine oil down right ? Just curious, how come stock 1JZ didn't equip with oil coolers in the Crown halfcut i bought.



LOL stock 1JZ has no cover or whatsoever, not even heatshield on the turbo manifold. Imagine the heat dispersed during high speed runs ...

Thanks,
Ken
Yup, cool the engine oil.

Older car no engine cover, only the newer ones but seems for forester they removed it, the turbo model stilll have engine cover but it is small and are vented.....lol
 
one noob questions, vented hood prone to heavy rain or heavy splash to the hood ?


usually if the vent location is directly under sensitive item like coil plug and such, there is some blocking panel to avoid water dropping directly onto that...

on my scooby it just falls through the chassis rail... so no problem let it vent directly open
 
usually if the vent location is directly under sensitive item like coil plug and such, there is some blocking panel to avoid water dropping directly onto that...

on my scooby it just falls through the chassis rail... so no problem let it vent directly open
Yours custom made by yourself.......lol
 
Necro this thread.

Between both below

-cf / fiberglass hood with vents
-custom stock metal hood with vents

would it make a difference for the heat? im thinking cf / fiberglass would be better
 
Necro this thread.

Between both below

-cf / fiberglass hood with vents
-custom stock metal hood with vents

would it make a difference for the heat? im thinking cf / fiberglass would be better
Probably not, but for weight difference, then yes.....
 
Necro this thread.

Between both below

-cf / fiberglass hood with vents
-custom stock metal hood with vents

would it make a difference for the heat? im thinking cf / fiberglass would be better
Depends on where you put the vents. If you put them at some place that doesn't have good circulation then it'll just be extra weight regardless of material.

Personally I'd keep the stock hood in case you'd ever need to revert back to stock, then use the custom fiber hood. But just be careful never to crash into anything.
 
Probably not, but for weight difference, then yes.....

different question is would the lighter weight savings make a difference?

currently 260hp mainline fwd car, aiming 300hp then stop there. was told heavier front would be better for traction.

only street use, not going to race or track it.
 
Depends on where you put the vents. If you put them at some place that doesn't have good circulation then it'll just be extra weight regardless of material.

Personally I'd keep the stock hood in case you'd ever need to revert back to stock, then use the custom fiber hood. But just be careful never to crash into anything.

I dont think will sell off the car, just build and keep it.
 
different question is would the lighter weight savings make a difference?

currently 260hp mainline fwd car, aiming 300hp then stop there. was told heavier front would be better for traction.

only street use, not going to race or track it.
Well - that's exactly the point. "Street use" not "race or track" so why worry. The lighter hood makes a huge difference if the original hood was heavy to begin with like the Proton Iswara, the hood weighs a metric ton so if you went fiber with that the front end will significantly feel more responsive and potentially have better acceleration. If it was light already like the alu Evo hood then going to fiber won't make a difference.

What car is it anyway?

I dont think will sell off the car, just build and keep it.
Famous last words until you get tempted with another car you've always wanted and can easily afford. Haha!
 
Well - that's exactly the point. "Street use" not "race or track" so why worry. The lighter hood makes a huge difference if the original hood was heavy to begin with like the Proton Iswara, the hood weighs a metric ton so if you went fiber with that the front end will significantly feel more responsive and potentially have better acceleration. If it was light already like the alu Evo hood then going to fiber won't make a difference.

What car is it anyway?


Famous last words until you get tempted with another car you've always wanted and can easily afford. Haha!

I still want to win on the streets LOL. its a satria neo, my first car I bought new. kept it aside for quite some time, never thought of selling because of my first car and just recently built it back. outside stock nothing changed base model trying to keep it as stock as possible with big exhaust, get cucuk by random cars which is the fun in this car lel.
 
I still want to win on the streets LOL. its a satria neo, my first car I bought new. kept it aside for quite some time, never thought of selling because of my first car and just recently built it back. outside stock nothing changed base model trying to keep it as stock as possible with big exhaust, get cucuk by random cars which is the fun in this car lel.
:listen: if rear see myvi i usually give way
 
I still want to win on the streets LOL. its a satria neo, my first car I bought new. kept it aside for quite some time, never thought of selling because of my first car and just recently built it back. outside stock nothing changed base model trying to keep it as stock as possible with big exhaust, get cucuk by random cars which is the fun in this car lel.
The Neo hood is quite light. I doubt a fiber hood would make that much of an impact. But if you got the budget for proper CF hood, then why not?

A modded neo under the hood eh? SLeeper cars are always interesting. But that potentially applies to the tailgater cars too. I've once been tailed by a seemingly stock FD2 and promptly gave way cuz you'll never know if it's a FD2R or not. Sure enough the super loud Vtec engages and the FD2 zips by effortlessly. I'm too old to layan tailgaters anyway. Couldn't be bothered.
 

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