Can a stock evo3 engine withstand 1.5bar of boost?

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i would say higher pressure more risky...therefore i ask before i boost...hehe

It's the flow + pressure. Boost pressure is just a precompression of the air before it is recompressed in you cylinders. BUt of course, different fuel have different thermal property.

IF u have a high pressure but small flow turbo, example u boosting at 2bars with TD04L on an E3, the turbo chocks before 4krpm. When u boost 3 bars with the turbo, still the air is insufficient to fill your cylinder due to low cfm.

Example, I have my BOT with TD04L once tuned to boost 1 bar. Now, I'm on GT2560R boost ing at 0.6bar and I have white plugs.... Heheh....

yes i got what you mean bro. thanks

Hmmm... good good....

Haltech E6X can control its...But be careful for your Stock piston bcoz thats also used for few years by JAPANESE...:biggrin:

True, we don't know how the engine was driven before us... E3 discontinued in 1996. Which means the newest E3 engine available is 13 years back.

However, if u take a look at kedai potong... Almost 90% of the Evos are kept standard and low mileage... They're fine...

Back to the thread starter... To my experience, it's safe to boost 1.2-1.3. bars with stock internals if TUNED WELL... The ignition timing is a little aggressive and higher CR compare to its precedor E1-E2. So, it's more risky to boost hight.

If u can avoid lean AFR and premature detonation, then things will work fine.
 
the evo123 piston ring and con rod and stud is really lame,need change that for safe,or u can run 10.0 a/f ratio for 1.2 bar,but also scare the piston will go out from your muffler ~

hahahaha....rotflol...
then the behind car will overtake u la becoz he got one more extra....
 
i would say higher pressure more risky...therefore i ask before i boost...hehe

If you think higher pressure is more risky you have to choose a bigger turbo with low boost application route... higher flow with low pressure..

It not the pressure that break the engine... uncontrolled combustion cause by pre-ignition or detonation that normally kill an engine. So, you must controlled the thing that cause pre-ignition and detonation for example excessive boost and ignition timing, lean AFR, high air temp, low quality fuel and etc...

The most important thing is properly setup & tune engine that can counter the cause of detonation and pre-ignition.
 
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i see a clear indicator whether the engine will survive or not is the AFR rite? switching to bigger turbo means differ cfm and hence will affect afr indirectly. so the first thing to retune is afr and what kind of range of afr value should we try to achieve to make sure the engine not running hot/lean? issit in the range of 11.3-12.0? :hmmmm:
 
Tuner said...good.:proud:

Tq pro tuner for your visit.....

i see a clear indicator whether the engine will survive or not is the AFR rite? switching to bigger turbo means differ cfm and hence will affect afr indirectly. so the first thing to retune is afr and what kind of range of afr value should we try to achieve to make sure the engine not running hot/lean? issit in the range of 11.3-12.0? :hmmmm:

It not all about AFR but you where there.... you still need to know when to burn it....
 
i worked on a std 4g63t evo3, dat produces 272hp on dyno dynamics, at 1.7bar. tahan jer, it has already been 3 years now, and power has been increased wit a bigger turbo to 360, still wit std block.. depends on the tuner jugek, joshua of millennium motorsports asia tunes very good especially with a microtech
 
I tuned emb at millenium before once,fully satisfied. now can't wait to go there to retune.
 
If you think higher pressure is more risky you have to choose a bigger turbo with low boost application route... higher flow with low pressure..

It not the pressure that break the engine... uncontrolled combustion cause by pre-ignition or detonation that normally kill an engine. So, you must controlled the thing that cause pre-ignition and detonation for example excessive boost and ignition timing, lean AFR, high air temp, low quality fuel and etc...

The most important thing is properly setup & tune engine that can counter the cause of detonation and pre-ignition.

if the car is tune with Shell 97, boosting at 1.2 means
1. dont ever runs on 95...?
2. is it better if runs on V-Power...?
 
we run on 97 (no vpower please, lol), tuned wit 95, most of the time we run on 95 petronas. no big

---------- Post added at 02:39 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 02:39 PM ----------

as i said, all in the tuner's skill
 
Tq pro tuner for your visit.....



It not all about AFR but you where there.... you still need to know when to burn it....

Now u are pro then me bro..yr car arledy 11.2sc.Me have no car ...embaress:biggrin:Zam and U is a great Team.
 
Thank for the compliments.. hope our Team's success will continue...
 
i worked on a std 4g63t evo3, dat produces 272hp on dyno dynamics, at 1.7bar. tahan jer, it has already been 3 years now, and power has been increased wit a bigger turbo to 360, still wit std block.. depends on the tuner jugek, joshua of millennium motorsports asia tunes very good especially with a microtech

bro that 272 hp with tdo5h & 1.7bar? and now what turbo and boost he use to get 360hp? need to benchmark my car :hmmmm:
 
272 on std TD05H 16G, dat 360 on a T4/T6 hybrid on 1.4bar. urs was dynoed on a dyno dynamics machine ker? weve proven dat the readings are higher on other dynos
 
err, if the engine is switched on, i doubt ud be able to determine if its running or not just by hearing to its purr, its dat smooth n quiet. elf does wonders on improving smoothness imo, i adviced the owner not to change to any other oil
 
err, if the engine is switched on, i doubt ud be able to determine if its running or not just by hearing to its purr, its dat smooth n quiet. elf does wonders on improving smoothness imo, i adviced the owner not to change to any other oil

I have been using ELF semi syn 10W-40 for some really long time until my 4G9X lifters rattles... haiz... Now I need thicker oil...
 
speed, although a thicker oil wud also be a good solution, but ur engine wont be necessary be quieten down after changing to a thicker oil.

what ive done to my 4g91 was, i added a thick shim to pre-tention the oil relieve valve, and the sound went away. iam using a 15w-40 and the noise isnt there during morning start. pm for service, tq
 
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