Basic Maintenance For DC2

yeah... insurance market price and normal market price differs alot... my car is insured for less than half the price i bought it for...
 
ok,... clear about that... errr one more thing (byk tnya pulak), izzit dc2 hv aircond filter? i mean 'pad/paper' filter, normally inside the dashboard, not the tabung one at the engine bay... my fb : fansuri mohammad
 
ok,... clear about that... errr one more thing (byk tnya pulak), izzit dc2 hv aircond filter? i mean 'pad/paper' filter, normally inside the dashboard, not the tabung one at the engine bay... my fb : fansuri mohammad

Nope...don't have one.

juz to ensure izzit true feel's or not.thanks for your advice. cannot wait tmrow morning to get the car... hehhehe .. btw, normally how much sum insured for dc2? i went to insurance agency this evening. they mentioned the market price for dc2 juz rm26k only....

I think mine was around RM35k.
 
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To let air pass through. On most bumpers, that basically is a parachute and thus creates drag. Letting the air out reduces this drag.

that 6 holes is called a diffuser... and yes...aerodynamically related.

rear bumper acts as a parachute by trapping the air there....the holes will let the air through giving less air resistance on high speeds.

sealing off the bottom also uses a diffuser like THIS

but there really isnt any for the EG unless DIY. and even then, it may not be as effective for the EG coz of the undercarriage design may still allow some air into the rear bumper causing it to be trapped there and may even make matters worse with a diffuser coz it doesnt have any where to go

personally... i dont like how it looks with gaping holes... but once u put netting at the holes... they look real good... and yes i have them netting :D

icic, it for ventilate purpose. ok thank you.
 
DC2! Dang. The best Integra model ever (in my opinion). Bro, I would suggest keeping the car stock once you get it. Cuz if they implement that goddamn stupid policy on old cars you're going to have a real rough time keeping this car.
 
thanks izso... now, already got the car, officially. im happy, my wife happy, all happy. cannot wait to hear lecture from my parents when balik kampung this weekend. my point is just "amik kete 2 pintu, untuk safety anak2, lagi safety sbb anak2 tak leh bukak pintu kat blkg" LOL... but only 2 times i drove it becoz to busy hehhee.... now, i got 2 issues here

1. this info according to insurance agency told me :
- takaful ikhlas - cannot cover the car, can cover a car below 15 years old only
- takaful malaysia - same case
- uni asia - same case
- alliance - loading 100%, can cover a car below 15 years old only
- etiqa - RM783, if sum insured rm15k, loading 15%

any comment?

2. this combination, it is reliable?
- cam+retainer+valve spring skunk2 pro3, 1 set
- b16b piston (81mm i think)
- without port and polish
- hondata s300
- standard clucth
- h22a injector
- standard intake manifold
- oversize works throttle body
- ngk BKR6EGP
- standard timing belt
- standard b16a/b18c water pump (22 teeth)
- simota air filter
- aluminium radiator
- arp head stud

my main point is to get a reliable/healthy engine...

thanks in advance....
 
1/ try motortakaful.com .... thats where i insure my 95 honda...its etiqa takaful iinm.

2/ pro3 requires quite a high compression to get any power out of it. B16B piston wont be enough to give it the compression it needs. would recommend Toda C2 or Skunk2 Pro2. take note that i have a friend with a B18C-R with 12.5 compression with Pro2 and his VTEC point is at about 7krpm. otherwise wont make any power when set the vtec point lower. i also have another friend with a b18cr with skunk2 tuner 2 cams and making pretty decent amount of power.... take note than when using aftermarket cams, advisable to have adjustable cam pulleys for fine tuning and also aftermarket timing belt like power enterprise or gates racing so that it doesnt break before 80k km... my mechanic told me if i were to fit toda c2 and wanna use honda oem belts, must change every 40k km max.

perhaps u should google for suitable cams for stock bottom B18C-R

b16b piston is a pretty decent upgrade. but quite costly to get it fitted. upah je dah lebih harga piston bro... blom masuk engine oil, gearbox oil, aircond gas etc.

id recommend skipping the b16b piston for now, and get a PnP job done. would be beneficial for the high cams.... b16b piston can masuk later if the engine requires overhauling or something

S300 = good shit.
standard clutch, id recommend something better like the exedy stage 1 or exedy stage 2 (3 or 4 puck) as minimum...but the stock clutch is pretty decent.
h22a injectors oso ok

instead of works, get skunk2 alpha throttle body... and port match ur intake manifold... take note that stock type r intake manifold has a limit it can be port matched... 68mm if not mistaken.... if u get 70mm throttle body, id advise getting skunk2 intake manifold as well and port matching it to 70mm...another favourite option for throttle bodies is the Super90 Throttle body.

spark plugs, up to u... but iinm vtecs use range 7 plugs... OEM plugs are NGK - BCPR7E-11 if not mistaken

timing belt already mentioned above.

air filter again up to ur choice... but... if u have the type r air box... would recommend u check out these DIY Icebox Cold Air Intake mods.
DIY: Icebox how-to - ClubIntegra.com - Acura Integra Forum
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/19-projects-diy-article-talk/125609-improved-diy-icebox-style-cai.html

and just change the filter element to something like K&N or something.

aluminium rad is ok... but personally.... stock radiator is good enough... perhaps look into low temp thermostat and low temp fan switch.....but if ur having overheating issues, u should get that sorted first before doing any mods.

arp head stud = good shit.


another thing u should look into is oil pressure. quite important for VTECs.. but usually stock oil pressure is ok for type r as they are supposed to have a higher pressure oil pump. otherwise, there is a simple mod out there that u can do to increase the pressure... involves a washer in the pump.. not sure if its applicable for type r... but try researching it.
 
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1/ try motortakaful.com .... thats where i insure my 95 honda...its etiqa takaful iinm.

2/ pro3 requires quite a high compression to get any power out of it. B16B piston wont be enough to give it the compression it needs. would recommend Toda C2 or Skunk2 Pro2. take note that i have a friend with a B18C-R with 12.5 compression with Pro2 and his VTEC point is at about 7krpm. otherwise wont make any power when set the vtec point lower. i also have another friend with a b18cr with skunk2 tuner 2 cams and making pretty decent amount of power.... take note than when using aftermarket cams, advisable to have adjustable cam pulleys for fine tuning and also aftermarket timing belt like power enterprise or gates racing so that it doesnt break before 80k km... my mechanic told me if i were to fit toda c2 and wanna use honda oem belts, must change every 40k km max.

perhaps u should google for suitable cams for stock bottom B18C-R

b16b piston is a pretty decent upgrade. but quite costly to get it fitted. upah je dah lebih harga piston bro... blom masuk engine oil, gearbox oil, aircond gas etc.

id recommend skipping the b16b piston for now, and get a PnP job done. would be beneficial for the high cams.... b16b piston can masuk later if the engine requires overhauling or something

S300 = good shit.
standard clutch, id recommend something better like the exedy stage 1 or exedy stage 2 (3 or 4 puck) as minimum...but the stock clutch is pretty decent.
h22a injectors oso ok

instead of works, get skunk2 alpha throttle body... and port match ur intake manifold... take note that stock type r intake manifold has a limit it can be port matched... 68mm if not mistaken.... if u get 70mm throttle body, id advise getting skunk2 intake manifold as well and port matching it to 70mm...another favourite option for throttle bodies is the Super90 Throttle body.

spark plugs, up to u... but iinm vtecs use range 7 plugs... OEM plugs are NGK - BCPR7E-11 if not mistaken

timing belt already mentioned above.

air filter again up to ur choice... but... if u have the type r air box... would recommend u check out these DIY Icebox Cold Air Intake mods.
DIY: Icebox how-to - ClubIntegra.com - Acura Integra Forum
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/19-projects-diy-article-talk/125609-improved-diy-icebox-style-cai.html

and just change the filter element to something like K&N or something.

aluminium rad is ok... but personally.... stock radiator is good enough... perhaps look into low temp thermostat and low temp fan switch.....but if ur having overheating issues, u should get that sorted first before doing any mods.

arp head stud = good shit.


another thing u should look into is oil pressure. quite important for VTECs.. but usually stock oil pressure is ok for type r as they are supposed to have a higher pressure oil pump. otherwise, there is a simple mod out there that u can do to increase the pressure... involves a washer in the pump.. not sure if its applicable for type r... but try researching it.

very good explanation madman... tq so much... in this situation,what do you think if i just change to one set of pro1 (or pro2)... with standard type r retainer, valve spring and piston? i dont want my car keep in workshop longer than my own garage... hehee. im not jenis yg gila kuasa one, juz sedap bwk and reliable (sometimes can cucuk my fren's b8 210) hehhehe.......
 
wouldnt advise putting in aftermarket cams with stock valve springs.... get the whole set one shot... satu kali keje.
 
tq again madman... maybe i will downgrade the engine, sell the pro3 and install std b18cr cam....
 
if u already have pro3 installed in ur engine ... try getting it tuned with the hondata and see how much power u can get.... if really cannot work with ur engine, then yeah can think of selling off and getting something a little lower.

if u wanna install std cam... id recommend B16B cams instead
 
so, izzit okay with b16b cam + b18c piston + e-manage combination? roughly price is cam 800 + piston 600 = rm1.4k right?
 
B16B cams are midly different than Pre 98-spec B18CR engines, on the intake VTEC lobe. The rest is the same.

No point changing to B16B cams if you have 98spec B18CR ones since it's the same.
 
so, izzit okay with b16b cam + b18c piston + e-manage combination? roughly price is cam 800 + piston 600 = rm1.4k right?

combination is basically ok.... but...

cam 800? no man.. B16B cams are going for about 1.4k thereabouts. and piston? dont u already have that in ur engine? wat pistons u running now?

id prefer to avoid emanage...if u have the cash, Hondata S300 would be good though ull need OBD1 ECU.. iinm ur on OBD2...if u already have an OBD1 ECU...itll cost u about 2.5k siap pasang n tune

same goes for crome...requires OBD1... again if u already have OBD1... this is about RM450 inclusive of dynotune... but if ur ECU has not been rechipped before... just add rm100 for the chip socket.

look into OBD1 conversions... ull need the converter harness and the OBD1 ECU (ECU code P30 is generally preferred)

after that, figure out which one suits ur budget best


Is it because b16b cam is more aggressive than b18cr cam?

yes... slightly more aggressive



No point changing to B16B cams if you have 98spec B18CR ones since it's the same.

actually 98spec cams are still the same as previous years... only year 2000 engines have the B16B cams
 
combination is basically ok.... but...

cam 800? no man.. B16B cams are going for about 1.4k thereabouts. and piston? dont u already have that in ur engine? wat pistons u running now?

id prefer to avoid emanage...if u have the cash, Hondata S300 would be good though ull need OBD1 ECU.. iinm ur on OBD2...if u already have an OBD1 ECU...itll cost u about 2.5k siap pasang n tune

same goes for crome...requires OBD1... again if u already have OBD1... this is about RM450 inclusive of dynotune... but if ur ECU has not been rechipped before... just add rm100 for the chip socket.

look into OBD1 conversions... ull need the converter harness and the OBD1 ECU (ECU code P30 is generally preferred)

after that, figure out which one suits ur budget best




yes... slightly more aggressive





actually 98spec cams are still the same as previous years... only year 2000 engines have the B16B cams

Ah so it is. Slight confusion there, thanks.

Any idea how much would the conversion cost? (OBD2 to OBD 1?)
 
madman, so to make it simple, i should get 1 set of b16b head, install s300 and sell the emanage + cam pro3, rite?

if u already have the e manage and pro3 installed... just use them... get it tuned proper.

if the cam is making decent amount of power in ur car keep it...

S300 is better of course... so upgrade to that if u can
 
if u already have the e manage and pro3 installed... just use them... get it tuned proper.

if the cam is making decent amount of power in ur car keep it...

S300 is better of course... so upgrade to that if u can

my problems are retainer and spring still std type R, compression 12.3 -12 -12 - 14.5 only, need to change high comp pistons, and the pomen recommend s300 for management... so i think just want to downgrade, pro3 to b16b cam.... izzit plug and play? how to fix the compression issue?:hmmmm:
 

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