Aluminium engine internals?

ken yeang

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I'll be doing an overhaul of my 1.6 car engine. I'm just wondering if having aluminium piston and aluminium flywheel can make difference in terms of hp gain and fuel consumption?. What would be the disadvantages using aluminium engine parts?, prices of these part? izit very expensive?
 
Cek Pit,

aluminium piston not necesary forged, it can be cast aluminium. Both oso aluminium.......I want to know if aluminium piston any better than standard piston....in terms of engine performance, broadly speaking la....
 
ken yeang said:
Cek Pit,

aluminium piston not necesary forged, it can be cast aluminium. Both oso aluminium.......I want to know if aluminium piston any better than standard piston....in terms of engine performance, broadly speaking la....


aluminium certain better than ur stock. cos it special made for ur car requirement whether more lower or higher comp.
 
nothing!...maybe slight difference...only difference is when you start altering the compressions...
 
oh,,,,,,how abt aluminium flywheel? can it do any good to the engine?
 
slight performance increase compare to the price u pay... u are better off getting some other performance parts.....
 
SkYwAlKeR said:
slight performance increase compare to the price u pay... u are better off getting some other performance parts.....
agreed. if comp ratio is the same, you theorically only feel better respond from the engine. same goes for the flywheel.
 
Skywalker,

In short, u suggest it's better to invest my money on other performance part for my stock 1970s corrola engine. what else can I do to the engine beside using weber carb and better air filter? I wish to retain the stock engine though as it got sentimental value to me.......hehehe....
 
ken yeang said:
Skywalker,

In short, u suggest it's better to invest my money on other performance part for my stock 1970s corrola engine. what else can I do to the engine beside using weber carb and better air filter? I wish to retain the stock engine though as it got sentimental value to me.......hehehe....
1970... a 3K engine? you wanna keep both the engine head and block?
 
Aluminium is actually quite soft you know. Unless of course, its composite aluminium ie. those already mixed with other materials to make it tougher. Audi uses aluminium composite for its chasis and the main benefit is the lightness and rigidity.

Besides, aluminium has got pretty low melting point and i'm not exactly sure but i think its not really suitable to be used at high temperature or those under high stress ie. engine components.

IMHO, you're better off buying aftermarket engine internals that are proven.
 
just skim the flywheel while u change the clutch...more economical than putting webers...gas guzzlers.
 
just a simple engineering point of view. lighter internals means better engine response because lesser energy lost to push the pistons.

but are you sure it's aluminum and not forged steel pistons? because aluminum pistons are pretty expensive.
 
ken yeang said:
hehe,,,ya, that's the engine...so how ar?
how big is your budget? do remember 3k won't get you far, even a 4K race-spec gives only 120hp, and have to be rebuilded every few months.
 
Hm..i tot the melting point of alumunium is around 700degrees celcius? Unless its a composite aluminium, if not how can it stand the heat? I mean for the pistons. Hm.. btw..i agreed that u better spend money on other performance stuff.
 
rollakid,

Hehehe....the previous onwer claimed the engine has been re-bored. I believe it was true as I have driven other stock corrola....the power was different. (don't let jpj know abt this, hor?)

So how ar?
 
heck~ no way 3K can bore up to 1.6liter lar >_< it must have been a 5K engine (1.5liter->1.6liter make more sense).

okay, go double check and see if it really is a 5K engine (go check the engine number on the block, should mention it). and if it really is one, and you still have that 3K engine head, then you really got yourself a gem there.

for normal people like us who want to play with toyota's old K-series engine, the easiest way to get power is to use a 5K block (1.5liter, from lite-ace van) and the 3K cylinder head (your car's ori engine). bolting on a 3K head on a 5K engine is like an instant bolt on performance part. This is because the ori K-series engine has low compresion ratio, the highest among the modal also only got 9.5:1 ratio, which is quite low. Bolting on a 3K head to the 5K block instantly give you 10.#:1 ratio (not sure about the exact figure), and if you use premium ron97 petrol, no knocking or pinging to worry about.

respond is faster too, basically just like an upgrade. This mod is done over and over by australian playing old school toyota, although i didn't try it myself, but with so many sifu in australia saying it works, i assume its true. works with 3K head + 4K block combo too, probably even better for racing compare to 5K block since 4K revs better.

other things that can be done:
-even higher compresion ratio
-lightened pushrod
-high duration cam (although i dunno where to get this)
-better clutch (TRD still sells them for 4k, asume they will fit anyway)
-weber, nuff said
-exhaust system could use some redesigning XD
-other than that is more on improving handling and chasis already....
 
Rollakid,

I see.... your explaination just scared me......Now, i suspek pulak my ori engine has been "molested" by the previous pakcik owner.....Let me give it a check on the items you have said. (hmmm, what to do, 30 years old car with 7 ownership...I think the chance of the car being 'molested" would be pretty high )

wa....the engine upgrade items you have listed oso scared my already...I think all items would cost me more than my old corolla.....
 


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