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just wanna know abt vr4 and its reliability coz vr4 stands for Very Reliable 4ever :P
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just wanna know abt vr4 and its reliability coz vr4 stands for Very Reliable 4ever :P [/b][/quote] :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: naughty... going to make a new monster vr4 |
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:lol: hahaha,,, i both lah lol..:Pthat why now no time to online...:P how much is the cost of doing pipping for wira?? [/b][/quote] depends on what kinda piping u wanna do... Jian Hang in Batu Caves can do a good one... but price have to see lor what material u want... |
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: naughty... going to make a new monster vr4 [/b][/quote] what monster and what project ?? hhmmm.... wonder why.. btw melvin, why got ppl say load vr4 but use evo head ah ?? better ah ?? |
:lol:
to us...why wanna use EVO head when the ports for intake are smaller ?
VR4 intake ports are much larger....and flow much more....
lex..
basically...there are alot of 'theories' out there.... :lol:
some proven...some not....
alot = white mice project one.....if no good = potato.... :lol:
;)
to us...why wanna use EVO head when the ports for intake are smaller ?
VR4 intake ports are much larger....and flow much more....
lex..
basically...there are alot of 'theories' out there.... :lol:
some proven...some not....
alot = white mice project one.....if no good = potato.... :lol:
;)
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: ppl say load vr4 lower and evo3 head and wiring got stronger internal can go higher hp leh..
i think i seen one posting ppl sell whole engine with vr4 lower and evo3 head running on 500hp i think ... for 25k?
:D
i think i seen one posting ppl sell whole engine with vr4 lower and evo3 head running on 500hp i think ... for 25k?
:D
kit...
my job ain't that fun... :( work like dogg....
SMT-6 will include install and tuning by GT Auto... ;)
my job ain't that fun... :( work like dogg....
SMT-6 will include install and tuning by GT Auto... ;)
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sdf by gt auto... B)
mine will be gt auto also but through pts auto... hehe
mine will be gt auto also but through pts auto... hehe
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so evo head is out ! haha
;)
pts auto ?? WTF ?? :blink:
pts auto ?? WTF ?? :blink:
but then GT Auto did some great work on a Black Galant VR4 .. the bonnet vents are red in colour and the owner of the car look like gangster one .. it was putting out 452hp on 4 wheels the other day at DMT. the owner of the car is very modest one, not those show off kind. [/b][/quote] nic....u got it wrong la. the owner dun look like gangsta laa.....he look like pue kor hamsap wong la.....u see his misai, but he always shave his misai la to look no so hamsap.... :lol: :D :ph34r: |
muahahahhahha.. okok....
put a management system is better then put a big turbo without management system
i just crapping not rich sorry... kekekekekkekekee....
oh cool so i can remain the NS60 .. alright i`ll get the NS60 then with some FAT ASS grounding cables :lol: . anyway are u back in kl ?. if not i`ll drop by & see u la bro . ermm one more question , how to check if the alternator is dead ?. and much does it cost to rebuild the alternator ?.
anyway here is some facts about the vr4 / dsm ,
from my understanding 1G is based on the vr4 200 , and the 2G is based on the 220 or RS version .. or i may be wrong , but in the US they say 1G has bigger throttle , bigger intake port , bigger intake & so on . oh yea 2G has a higher compression which is 8.5 : 1 as for the 1G same as the vr4 7.8 : 1
http://www.fivio.com/vestax/vr4/1G-2G_Intake1.jpg
http://www.fivio.com/vestax/vr4/1G-2G_Intake2.jpg
http://www.fivio.com/vestax/vr4/1G-2G_TBs.jpg
http://www.vfaq.com/proj-pics/RRE/2G-head_int.jpg
http://www.vfaq.com/proj-pics/exh-mans01.jpg
http://www.vfaq.com/proj-pics/exh-mans02.jpg
http://www.vfaq.com/proj-pics/exh-mans03.jpg
http://www.vfaq.com/proj-pics/exh-mans04.jpg
i notice when i read in vfaq , dsm tuners , they always mention they are having crankwalk , what does that mean ?. they say mitsubishi is well known for crankwalk and they are damn pissed with it , cause its unsolve ,
here is the artical , i can't get the link , it shows www.vfaq.com ,.
$18.00 Crankwalk (Temporary) Fix
2G Eclipse Crankwalk
DSM = Dumb Stupid Mitsubishi - yes, I'm pissed!
# What brought on the need for me to make a crankwalk page?
# I bought this car with 30K miles. I thought the clutch was out of adjustment, and I would simply adjust it. Well, after replacing every clutch related part on the car: pedal bushings, master cylinder, slave cylinder, had the flywheel cut, and made sure the step was exactly in spec, new pressure plate, disk, and throwout bearing. The clutch was still acting funny. I bought the car July of '99, and have only heard of crankwalk, but, never dreamed it could happen to my car. How wrong I was. Read on:
12/18/01 UPDATE:
# The car now has just under 76,000 miles.
# I am still measuring 0.009" of end play with the "Swiss Cheese Bearing".
# I was getting skeptical of my bearing not wearing past the 0.009" in 11,000 miles just by changing to 20w-50 oil, STP oil treatment, and bringing the oil pressure up by revving the engine prior to pressing the clutch, so I pulled the oil pan and installed a new set of bearings.
# Prior to removing the "swiss cheese bearing" I measured wear with a feeler gauge to test measurement accuracy - something I shold have done long ago. The feeler gauge measurement of the swiss cheese bearing was only 0.0065" ( a 0.006" feeler gauge would fit and 0.007" feeler gauge would not while preloading the crankshaft with a pry bar. This shows a 0.0025" error in my measuring technique when measuring outside of the oil pan using :AWD crankwalk check or the FWD crankwalk check
. I thought I would bring that to everyone's attention. My external measuremnts showed worse than the bearing was really worn. I guess I was moving the engine in it's mounts a little when measuring the bearings and was pretty consistent at it.
# The new (replacement bearing#3) measures 0.0035". I figured since I was there, I'd install a fresh bearing. I made no modifications to this bearing.
(Replacement Bearing 2 "swiss cheese bearing") 7/24/01 update:
# I now have 68,750 miles on the car.
# The bearing play has stayed at 0.009"
# The changes I made in oil, driving technique, and hardware adjustments are helping out a bit.
# Negatives: There has to be a negative, nothing is all good, at least in my world. The 20w-50 oil makes the lifter tick like an angry mother tapping her foot on the floor. I'm sure the knock sensor is loving this. I did a little test with straight 30W oil and the ticking stopped, and the power increase was amazing, so I'm sure timing was getting pulled. The other negative is sick high oil pressure at 3500 rpms (my cruising rpms on the way to work in 5th gear). If I had to guess, a lot of the oil might be using the oil pump bypass and not going through the filter.
# I know that we aren't supposed to use the 20w-50 oil due to lifter tick etc., but, so far it's working pretty good with reguards to bearing wear.
5/10/01 UPDATE: How is the "Swiss Cheese Bearing" holding up?
# I now have 65,700 miles on the car.
# The car is now mostly stock with the exception of a upper intercooler pipe, 1G BOV, and I still run 17 psi of boost.
# The bearing play has increased from 0.0055" to 0.009" (0.0035" of bearing wear already - ouch!)
*note* I got lazy for a few oil cahnges and did not check crankwalk since the bearing was fresh. The last oil change is where I switched to the 20w-50 and STP oil treatment, 3k miles prior to finding 0.009" of end play.
# I measured how far I can safely wear into the bearing before absolutely having to replace the thrust bearing. (soft copper part of the bearing that hopefully won't damage the crankshaft too badly) I feel safe up to 0.015" of end play. Why that number? I measured 0.020" of copper on each side of the bearing. The clutch side wears much faster so I can only count on one side of the bearing to wear. I gave myself 0.005" of error combined in measuring crankwalk and bearing tolerances with the dimensional amount of copper used. This should allow plenty of room for error with out risk of totally trashing what is left of the crankshaft.
# I also noticed that the oil pressure would drop to almost nothing at redlights, and hot engine starts. I now rev the engine to bring the oil pressure up prior to pressing the clutch. I don't press in the clutch with the engine revved up, I wait for the rpms to come back to near idle. The oil pressure will stay up long enough to allow for this. This is a pain to to all of the time, but, I was planning a bearing change yesterday, and didn't have too. I credit this toward bringing the oil pressure up a little prior to stepping on the clutch.
# I also switched to 20w-50 oil and one can of STP Oil Treatment to increase my oil pressure. *see above note for more info* That helped the oil pressure quite a bit, but, it still drops off, and I still have to rev the engine to build a little oil pressure prior to pressing in the clutch.
# I also adjusted the clutch pedal stop (with foot off of pedal, position the pedal returns too). I backed it out almost all of the way. Now there is no chance the throwout bearing can "ride" and cause unnecessary wear. The clutch tolerates the sloppy crankshaft movement much better now too.
# Hopefully, the above steps will extend my bearing replacement intervals until we can get Mitsibushi to make good on our defective engines - I'm not holding my breath.
(Replacement bearing 1) How is the $18.00 crankwalk fix holding up after the first 5,000 hard miles?
# The new bearings measured more than 0.002" of thrust play, but, less than 0.003" of thrust play after installation.
# The new bearings have seen 130 mph three times.
# They have also been down the 1/4 mile 12 times. Eight of the passes were in the high 12's.
# We drove to the 2000 DSM shootout in Norwalk and competed in drag racing (best of 12.8@109) and the autocross (what a blast!), then drove back to eastern PA again (10 - 12 hours with traffic).
# The bearing have also survived two more autocross races. 12 laps total.
# You can see that I have not babied the $18.00 crankwalk (temporary) fix at all. In fact, I have purposely been beating on it to see how well it will hold up. Result is: after 5000 very hard miles the thrust clearance has increased to 0.003"
NEW Result is: after 8000 miles, the last 90 going around Pocono Raceway as fast as I could resulted in the thrust clearance increasing to 0.008! Out of spec! Ahhh, so what. I did another autocross after that anyway!"
* You can see the imprint of the block, and bearing caps oil passages.
http://www.angelfire.com/pa4/crankwalk/Mvc_046x.jpg
# Let the beating begin
# Here is the Pulley side of the bearings.
# You can see wear that is not uniform around the face of the bearing. This would indicate a slightly warped block, warped bearing cap assembly, or improperly machined mating surfaces from either.
# Let's grind from the clutch side.
# You can see that there is much more wear here. I measured a lot of play prior to removal from the engine.
# Note: The 0.030" number I had here couldn't be correct as that was one of my first attempts of measuring crankwalk. I would have been through the copper part of the bearing on the clutch side.
http://www.angelfire.com/pa4/crankwalk/Mvc_048x.jpg
here is the artical , i can't get the link , it shows www.vfaq.com ,.
$18.00 Crankwalk (Temporary) Fix
2G Eclipse Crankwalk
DSM = Dumb Stupid Mitsubishi - yes, I'm pissed!
# What brought on the need for me to make a crankwalk page?
# I bought this car with 30K miles. I thought the clutch was out of adjustment, and I would simply adjust it. Well, after replacing every clutch related part on the car: pedal bushings, master cylinder, slave cylinder, had the flywheel cut, and made sure the step was exactly in spec, new pressure plate, disk, and throwout bearing. The clutch was still acting funny. I bought the car July of '99, and have only heard of crankwalk, but, never dreamed it could happen to my car. How wrong I was. Read on:
12/18/01 UPDATE:
# The car now has just under 76,000 miles.
# I am still measuring 0.009" of end play with the "Swiss Cheese Bearing".
# I was getting skeptical of my bearing not wearing past the 0.009" in 11,000 miles just by changing to 20w-50 oil, STP oil treatment, and bringing the oil pressure up by revving the engine prior to pressing the clutch, so I pulled the oil pan and installed a new set of bearings.
# Prior to removing the "swiss cheese bearing" I measured wear with a feeler gauge to test measurement accuracy - something I shold have done long ago. The feeler gauge measurement of the swiss cheese bearing was only 0.0065" ( a 0.006" feeler gauge would fit and 0.007" feeler gauge would not while preloading the crankshaft with a pry bar. This shows a 0.0025" error in my measuring technique when measuring outside of the oil pan using :AWD crankwalk check or the FWD crankwalk check
. I thought I would bring that to everyone's attention. My external measuremnts showed worse than the bearing was really worn. I guess I was moving the engine in it's mounts a little when measuring the bearings and was pretty consistent at it.
# The new (replacement bearing#3) measures 0.0035". I figured since I was there, I'd install a fresh bearing. I made no modifications to this bearing.
(Replacement Bearing 2 "swiss cheese bearing") 7/24/01 update:
# I now have 68,750 miles on the car.
# The bearing play has stayed at 0.009"
# The changes I made in oil, driving technique, and hardware adjustments are helping out a bit.
# Negatives: There has to be a negative, nothing is all good, at least in my world. The 20w-50 oil makes the lifter tick like an angry mother tapping her foot on the floor. I'm sure the knock sensor is loving this. I did a little test with straight 30W oil and the ticking stopped, and the power increase was amazing, so I'm sure timing was getting pulled. The other negative is sick high oil pressure at 3500 rpms (my cruising rpms on the way to work in 5th gear). If I had to guess, a lot of the oil might be using the oil pump bypass and not going through the filter.
# I know that we aren't supposed to use the 20w-50 oil due to lifter tick etc., but, so far it's working pretty good with reguards to bearing wear.
5/10/01 UPDATE: How is the "Swiss Cheese Bearing" holding up?
# I now have 65,700 miles on the car.
# The car is now mostly stock with the exception of a upper intercooler pipe, 1G BOV, and I still run 17 psi of boost.
# The bearing play has increased from 0.0055" to 0.009" (0.0035" of bearing wear already - ouch!)
*note* I got lazy for a few oil cahnges and did not check crankwalk since the bearing was fresh. The last oil change is where I switched to the 20w-50 and STP oil treatment, 3k miles prior to finding 0.009" of end play.
# I measured how far I can safely wear into the bearing before absolutely having to replace the thrust bearing. (soft copper part of the bearing that hopefully won't damage the crankshaft too badly) I feel safe up to 0.015" of end play. Why that number? I measured 0.020" of copper on each side of the bearing. The clutch side wears much faster so I can only count on one side of the bearing to wear. I gave myself 0.005" of error combined in measuring crankwalk and bearing tolerances with the dimensional amount of copper used. This should allow plenty of room for error with out risk of totally trashing what is left of the crankshaft.
# I also noticed that the oil pressure would drop to almost nothing at redlights, and hot engine starts. I now rev the engine to bring the oil pressure up prior to pressing the clutch. I don't press in the clutch with the engine revved up, I wait for the rpms to come back to near idle. The oil pressure will stay up long enough to allow for this. This is a pain to to all of the time, but, I was planning a bearing change yesterday, and didn't have too. I credit this toward bringing the oil pressure up a little prior to stepping on the clutch.
# I also switched to 20w-50 oil and one can of STP Oil Treatment to increase my oil pressure. *see above note for more info* That helped the oil pressure quite a bit, but, it still drops off, and I still have to rev the engine to build a little oil pressure prior to pressing in the clutch.
# I also adjusted the clutch pedal stop (with foot off of pedal, position the pedal returns too). I backed it out almost all of the way. Now there is no chance the throwout bearing can "ride" and cause unnecessary wear. The clutch tolerates the sloppy crankshaft movement much better now too.
# Hopefully, the above steps will extend my bearing replacement intervals until we can get Mitsibushi to make good on our defective engines - I'm not holding my breath.
(Replacement bearing 1) How is the $18.00 crankwalk fix holding up after the first 5,000 hard miles?
# The new bearings measured more than 0.002" of thrust play, but, less than 0.003" of thrust play after installation.
# The new bearings have seen 130 mph three times.
# They have also been down the 1/4 mile 12 times. Eight of the passes were in the high 12's.
# We drove to the 2000 DSM shootout in Norwalk and competed in drag racing (best of 12.8@109) and the autocross (what a blast!), then drove back to eastern PA again (10 - 12 hours with traffic).
# The bearing have also survived two more autocross races. 12 laps total.
# You can see that I have not babied the $18.00 crankwalk (temporary) fix at all. In fact, I have purposely been beating on it to see how well it will hold up. Result is: after 5000 very hard miles the thrust clearance has increased to 0.003"
NEW Result is: after 8000 miles, the last 90 going around Pocono Raceway as fast as I could resulted in the thrust clearance increasing to 0.008! Out of spec! Ahhh, so what. I did another autocross after that anyway!"
* You can see the imprint of the block, and bearing caps oil passages.
http://www.angelfire.com/pa4/crankwalk/Mvc_046x.jpg
# Let the beating begin
# Here is the Pulley side of the bearings.
# You can see wear that is not uniform around the face of the bearing. This would indicate a slightly warped block, warped bearing cap assembly, or improperly machined mating surfaces from either.
# Let's grind from the clutch side.
# You can see that there is much more wear here. I measured a lot of play prior to removal from the engine.
# Note: The 0.030" number I had here couldn't be correct as that was one of my first attempts of measuring crankwalk. I would have been through the copper part of the bearing on the clutch side.
http://www.angelfire.com/pa4/crankwalk/Mvc_048x.jpg
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Peter's workshop in SS3... u ask thomas n tobby.. they will tell u
nice leh ... always know all the lastest update to those new stuff .... kekeke..:P
got mutubushi that running with 11k RPM leh ????
Vex...
i'll be back in kl on Wed...ring me up la...
Cool article u got ther....
as i know...crankwalk usually happens to the 7-bolt (evo engines)...layman terms is....when u depress the clutch pedal on stand still...the RPM dies off ! :o
our VR4 here uses the 6-bolt crank....fatter bolts and stronger too... ;)
i'll be back in kl on Wed...ring me up la...
Cool article u got ther....
as i know...crankwalk usually happens to the 7-bolt (evo engines)...layman terms is....when u depress the clutch pedal on stand still...the RPM dies off ! :o
our VR4 here uses the 6-bolt crank....fatter bolts and stronger too... ;)
oh 7 bolts , so means their 2G is runing on evo setup , cause what i notice 2Gs are on 8.5 : 1 compression and has 7bolts , and same MAF as the evo ..
alright i`ll give u a ring on wed or thursday ..
alright i`ll give u a ring on wed or thursday ..
vex...
yupz..the US never had chance for EVO....but veru funny one....the turbo and injectors are diff...
some batches were using a Garrett T28 hybrid..injectors only 450cc !! :o
ECU, MAF, g/box, crank, rods....all EVO alike....waa...blur siaa...
hahahaha.....
yupz..the US never had chance for EVO....but veru funny one....the turbo and injectors are diff...
some batches were using a Garrett T28 hybrid..injectors only 450cc !! :o
ECU, MAF, g/box, crank, rods....all EVO alike....waa...blur siaa...
hahahaha.....
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