2nd,3rd and so on opinion

[marsha1l_v6]

Car: perdana v6
Year : 2000
Engine : stock 6a12 V6 DOHC 24V
Mileage : 222xxx km (daily driving,go holiday anywhere i go this car is my ride)
Transmission : auto 4
Upgrade in mind :

• piggyback ecu
• adjustable suspension
• brake
• aesthetic (bodykit,rim,semi bucket)

With that info, im in the mist of getting ecu , so planning to keep engine stock and hoping that with the piggyback could squeeze a lil bit performance and give a better fc and/or low rpm pickup.

i am not sure when but i do have plan to transplant vr4 in it depends which come first (engine block spoil or got extra $$ or no)

so whats your opinion? sifu also experience user. Does it bring more good than harm?

read some google result and give a mix opinion.

If you have a n/a car and you are planning on boosting it, there really is only one reasonable choice. A stand alone ecu. This is because a naturally aspirated cars ecu is programmed for a na engine. The main concern is your ignition timing. An na tuned car (i.e your stock car) will have ignition maps that are way to advanced for a boosted application causing detonation, which is detrimental to your engine.
Well doesn’t a a/f controller and piggy back computer control ignition timing?
Yes but not effectively. An a/f controller takes readings from your maf/map sensor and alters them trick your ecu into reading a different signal. And since all your maps are tied in together, your maf/map sensor signal also will move where your ecu reads its ignition timing on the map. your maf/map is not only used to maintain air/fuel, but its also used by the ecu to determine load, and load is used for determining timing advance, this has the side effect of fooling the ecu into advancing timing beyond what is safe. These readings will also effect where your cam angle is, which more then likely will not be at the optimal angle for your boosted application.

Newer piggy backs like the e-manage ultimate can control your ignition timing separately from your airflow readings, but there are still catches. You are able to change ignition timing maps but the e-manage simply changes the output signal the ecu sends to the coils. The problem is the ignition timing numbers are not always consistent with the changes you make to the load sensor, whether its your map, or maf sensor. So you are guessing the timing numbers. The stock ecu also has multiple maps it can run for different conditions so you are not always consistent with the tune.

A stand alone ecu lets you build, from scratch, completely new ignition timing maps and fuel maps and cam angle maps. Optimal for your boosted application so you can run a safer tune that will make more power.

A car that has come from the factory already has optimal ignition timing maps and there for really only needs a a/f controller or a piggy back that can compensate in a relatively small window range. Unless you plan on drastically changing your stock boosted air flow characteristics, a piggy back will suit you just fine.

quoted from: http://forums.superstreetonline.com

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

*paging Danzeterna for advice*

 

[mADmAN]

the gearbox for the perdana V6 is said to be super problematic... some have said that adding an ATF cooler might help.

as for the standalone ecu thing... yes.. its better

 

[l2s_turbo]

What is your budget? What are you aiming for? Drag monster? Street drivability? To save fuel? To have highway cruise? To win in every traffic light pick up?

 

[marsha1l_v6]

the gearbox for the perdana V6 is said to be super problematic... some have said that adding an ATF cooler might help.

as for the standalone ecu thing... yes.. its better

yes it is..and yes this is the 2nd time change gearbox AUTO also and first time adding atf cooler..

i see..what brand is reliable and tuner friendly?

What is your budget? What are you aiming for? Drag monster? Street drivability? To save fuel? To have highway cruise? To win in every traffic light pick up?

budget for? total upgrade budget or what? this is ongoing upgrade not rushing..let say for now ~1.8k for ecu+complete with harness,dyno etc.

aiming for :
-street drivability
-highway cruise
-if possible imrpove in FC &/or improve in engine output.

 

[DanzEterna]

1.register with AAM incase u need towing for the problematic autobox
2.add on a fan infront of the atf cooler, the cooler is useless during traffic jams.
3.use original toyota ATF's.
4.use semi synthetic engine oil, v6 cant use fully syn, it will leak at the engine head
5.dont wash your engine, will destroy the ABS sensor, just wipe it down once in a while.

ensure your engine & gearbox is in tiptop condition before u move on to modding the rest, seats, rims etc.....

now point having a rm3k japan rims but with a faulty gearbox.

 

[marsha1l_v6]

1.register with AAM incase u need towing for the problematic autobox
2.add on a fan infront of the atf cooler, the cooler is useless during traffic jams.
3.use original toyota ATF's.
4.use semi synthetic engine oil, v6 cant use fully syn, it will leak at the engine head
5.dont wash your engine, will destroy the ABS sensor, just wipe it down once in a while.

ensure your engine & gearbox is in tiptop condition before u move on to modding the rest, seats, rims etc.....

now point having a rm3k japan rims but with a faulty gearbox.

on the engine part mostly covered some learn from expensive experience. using castrol magnatec 10w-40 so far no issue since did a top overhaul and renew all the seal. using toyota ATF. didnt wash engine just blow the dust off. wont it rust?

atf fan cooler bought recently and will be installing next month together with servicing my timing belt. Due another 27xxx km more but just to be safe.

so what do you think regarding the ecu.?

thank you to zth and lyn i manage to learn how to maintain this rusty 13 yr old pv6.

 

[DanzEterna]

a piggyback wont give u much increase in hp since its an auto, if manual then yes its worth upgrading.
i suggest get a set of adjustables, rims..rota looks nice though, sunroof, semi bucket seats (depending on your budget).

but it all depends on how much are u willing to spend?
if u have rm4k++ i suggest convert to manual, sell your autobox for rm1k.-1.2k. if not lets continue your modding lists.

 

[marsha1l_v6]

a piggyback wont give u much increase in hp since its an auto, if manual then yes its worth upgrading.
i suggest get a set of adjustables, rims..rota looks nice though, sunroof, semi bucket seats (depending on your budget).

but it all depends on how much are u willing to spend?
if u have rm4k++ i suggest convert to manual, sell your autobox for rm1k.-1.2k. if not lets continue your modding lists.

this is ongoing upgrade but i set a limit of certain amount preferably lower and my concern is more on performance and comfort. i love to go manual but due to the area i live in, later my left calf will be bigger than right

somehow if go manual.. might go for vr4 turbo stock with auto tranny

my modding list is stated above. If i want go fast, ill be buying a car that is design to be fast down the road. for now, its a daily driving car with good performance and comfort. sometime my right foot is heavy

buying new car is not optional..the money is better off on investment/properties

 

[DanzEterna]

ok lets continue with your list
1. drop in K&N air filter
2. iridium plugs
3. bosch super sport 0.8mm plug cables
4. s-flow muffler with std pipings
5. lightweight rims
6. check all your engine mountings, lower arms, tie rod ends, driveshaft CV joint etc...
7. upgrade to adjustables absorbers min hi/low, soft hard depends on u.
8. carbon fibre bonnet rm1.2-1.4k
9. sunroof - Rm2k
10. adjustable cam (works engineering) & crank pulleys (any brand)
11. CAI (cold air intake)

with that your ride should be comfy with added performance.

 

[marsha1l_v6]

ok lets continue with your list
1. drop in K&N air filter done
2. iridium plugs bought and will be install during during timing belt change
3. bosch super sport 0.8mm plug cables is there any performance gain?i thought it is durable and more to market gimmick
4. s-flow muffler with std pipings pending
5. lightweight rims pending
6. check all your engine mountings, lower arms, tie rod ends, driveshaft CV joint etc... done some few month back
7. upgrade to adjustables absorbers min hi/low, soft hard depends on u. ***
8. carbon fibre bonnet rm1.2-1.4kit is light..and perhaps improve engine compartment temperature???
9. sunroof - Rm2k i dont find this thing necessary
10. adjustable cam (works engineering) & crank pulleys (any brand)preferably keeping engine stock..this include cam shaft right?
11. CAI (cold air intake)wont the stock one will be sufficient ]

with that your ride should be comfy with added performance.

*** will consider this if ecu (standalone/piggyback)is not the best buy for the car.

thank you for the list..i get the basic idea..somehow got few question..Hmm...

 

[marsha1l_v6]

i have finalize the list for performance upgrade on 6a12 na, please comment.

this is after i read a few forum , however some are not being implemented on na 6a12.

-works dropin
-best i plug cable
-bosch iridium
-aftermarket air throttle
-adjustable cam gear and aftermarket cam pulley
-hot bits rare exhaust system and extractor.
-works ecu piggyback
-weight reduction(cf hood + lightweight rim)