1jz & rb25

sori to interrupt.. being a 1 jz user here, maybe i could share y i choose 1j instead of rb25....but frankly speaking upon heavy mods those rb25 are sweet but i know i cant afford those kind of modification so tis is the factor i take into consideration

engine/half cut cost
reliability upon heavy trashing
forigiving factor if it was wrongly tune (will it break down straight away)
parts availability for maintainence... again it involve cost consideration
powerband and torque
issit easy to get most horsepower even with minimal cost of modification.

so d 1jz cost only a fraction of rb25..

and talking about heavy trashing i blewn my ignitor coils and runs on 3 cylinder ,then it got heated up and burst my rubber stopper for d aircond heater causing lost of water and overheated..i was stuck in jam and stil driving it back home then realize engine oil sipping into chamber due to the heat... i was tinking tats the end.. but after a good check at it.. my engine was 'unhurt' not even a tiny bit or gasket leak..just flush the oil,replace stopper and replace the ignition coil ,top up coolant and its good to go again...

forgiving upon wrong ly wired and tuned...my car boost cut when it sense over boost and maintain a couple of second with check engine light and resume after tat. there was time my car running af ratio around 13 whcih was damm lean for the boost of 1.2bar and the piston havent crack... fuel hose clamp loosen causes air trap inside my fuel hose to the engine making my car jerk like hell for 2 days..i get mad duno wats the cost and slam my acc to the pedal hoping it can 'unclog" if anyting tersumbat and still jerk the hell out of me...after solved the car when normal again .

maintainenece parts... toyota had many tings similar and interchangable like clutch with toyota hilux, oil filter with 1g,3s gte engine all interchangable, cam seal its similar to 4-age if im not wrong and alot of more ...bigger parts are available in junk yard for a reasonable parts because nobody wants it...but setback is not much performance parts available locally... if have the bucks , can order frm australia... alot of pl playing around with tis ...

powerband and torque... talking about stock... not bad la... fuel consumption damm low for a 2500cc... my 80bucks can go 430km with a manual tranny...mix condition driving.(stock fueling only have bigger capasity fuel pumps..) after some tweak here and there with some after markets and higher boost i stil get around 315-360km per rm80...

i consider my car has minor mods.. a big single of T70 with some upgrades to pipings,intercooler ,fueling feed and management got me near ... i mean "near" 400rwhp on dyno at the boost of 1.5bar...(stock internals)..some say it wont last ..but doing 1.2-1.4 for the past 3 years since the last owner of tis engine had gone to tis far untill now and she is still running strong with proper maintainence and routine check on everyting every 5000km... it has around 90k miedlege on it now and i guess it still had many more miles to go except for the clutch plate and cover that i estimate it wont survive past tis year...
 
it's mostly the JPJ approval we are concerned here in Malaysia, u need to spend more on "duit kopi" for the approval if u put in 1JZ into a Nissan chassis, and the availability of spare parts for the 1JZ is much more expensive than the Nissan's, all in all, if you want hassle free engine transplant and JPJ approval, go for RB, if you have the cash and want more power, go for 1JZ, that's the only difference
 
i agree with renxun, it's an easier engine to tune. i've used rb before, tuning is a pain in the a**. maybe at that time there weren't much of tuners know how to get it tune to optimum level and to get only a fraction of its hp to increase needs a lot of modifications. the torque only comes in the higher rev range coz of it's larger bore compared to 1jz that has heaps of torque, if you are heading towards drifting, then i'd recommend 1jz.

after my last rb experience, i've vowed not to touch another rb. now having a 1jz, gives me lots of satisfaction. easy maintenance, self adjustable timing, stock internals with some bolt-ons will give you 350-400hp. there's a guy in puchong selling 1jz single turbo manifold, add in a ball bearing turbo and you're off to drift or drag like renxun and i.

agree with stormlcc that jpj approval will be challenging, frustrating and high cost. if i'm not mistaken, your engine cc will exceed 25% by only few cc's like my car, that requires you to get a letter from putrajaya with additional costs involve.

my point of view.... cheers
 
1JZ。。。unless you have tried it many people will say it is no use lah use RB25 better...from a person who is driving a A31 with 1JZ( its turbo is on the driver side)the power is extremely great...too much for handle...i have a mech who transplanted many 1jz into bimmer and cefiro....imagine that a 1JZ auto tranny transplanted into a BMW 730 series can keep up with a wira with VR4???how much power it makes it is up to u guys to figure it out...1JZ as far as i know is more durable...not so sensitive...unlike RB series RB20 especially with its wiring problem...thrash and treat it like normal engine...it wont complain much and work very good still...try drifting with a A31 cefiro 1JZ auto tranny...for noobies...no skills required...
 
i dare not say anyting about the wiring prob tat rb has... cuz honestly i nv owned an rb b4.... but talking about horsepower after some serious mods i bet the 1jz will be out run by the rb on the dyno due to the reving tat the rb can go...

but hell im damm freak out when i see my fren's rb20 blown his 6th cylinder twice causing him a hole in his pocket for the repairs... and now he had rb25 in his car and currently everyting is fine ...

but again ... wat type of car is also concern bcuz if u wan a hassle free transplant for the a31 of course rb is way to go .... and since all of us had been sharing so much i guess there should be some point of reference which u could refer to when u want to make ur decision.....
 

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