1jz E36 BMW frankensteining

[Mitevo7]

Well, we don't see the work he's done, only you see it up close in person. You can ask your other mechanic on his opinion, and you judge yourself whether what he's asking is fair based on the quality of work he has done. If the wiring job he did is good, soldered/crimped, heatshrink, routed properly then that should be good. If all he did is cut, twist and wire tape, wires all over the place then I'd suggest looking for another wireman.

If the plugs came with the engine, save your trouble, google the code of the plug you need, go to spare part shop and straight away buy and replace. Up to you to get copper, iridiums or NGK platinum, pretty much no difference when new, only difference is the longevity.

The wires are done and he requested more payment, which i am dissatisfied, we agreed on the said payment and now he said he spent on retrofitting something else to make the gauges all work, so needed more payment. I can say he's done a great job but only thing i detect is the electronics are not getting enough power, might be battery issue or grounding issue.

The plugs are old i can assure that, may be changing the plugs will cure the cold start issue as most turbo cars will use colder plugs.

Thanks,
Ken

 

[Nightstalker1993]

The wires are done and he requested more payment, which i am dissatisfied, we agreed on the said payment and now he said he spent on retrofitting something else to make the gauges all work, so needed more payment. I can say he's done a great job but only thing i detect is the electronics are not getting enough power, might be battery issue or grounding issue.

The plugs are old i can assure that, may be changing the plugs will cure the cold start issue as most turbo cars will use colder plugs.

Thanks,
Ken

Then that is up to you to decide. Personally after agreeing on a said price, changing the price afterwards without informing before he did the extra work IMO is unethical la. You nego with him see how.

Cold plugs or not it shouldn't cause that issue. Like you said, turbo engines generally comes with cold plugs from factory and jerking issue is definitely not tolerable.

 

[Mitevo7]

Then that is up to you to decide. Personally after agreeing on a said price, changing the price afterwards without informing before he did the extra work IMO is unethical la. You nego with him see how.

Cold plugs or not it shouldn't cause that issue. Like you said, turbo engines generally comes with cold plugs from factory and jerking issue is definitely not tolerable.

Of course i am negotiating, i am being a nice customer which i never nego with him when he quoted me the first round. I understand times are tough but this one is intolerable. Let this be lesson to all those who wants to do some project like this. This will be one first and last conversion project. Fxxking nightmare compared to buying a new car.

We identified few issues, the connecting cable from the trunk to engine is not thick enough and battery power may not be sufficient, which may or may not contribute to this stuttering issue, but still does not explain the car will run fine after getting warmed up.

Another small issues are the parking gear seems to be out of place a little and sportmode is not working. Other than these issues, the car runs, corners and brakes fine.

Thanks,
Ken

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

Ok let me explain my situation.

4. As much as I hate to admit it, the Myvi FC is somewhat unbeatable so that car can't go until I make enough to cover fuel and maintenance costs for 4 cars (I have 2 Myvis, 1 innova and my own BMW to maintain). Daily-ing RON97 all day in a turbo car is just not going to work for me la long term. Unless I strike it rich somehow, then I'll definitely have a project car.

And interestingly I posted the car for sale in FB and in 1 day I'll be having 2 potential buyers viewing the car on Sunday. Jeez.. if only it were this easy to sell the Porsche.

why so many myvi? sold the one not used by the wife...and franken too... got better cash for better car... and with less car less number of maintenance needed?

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

Ideally the twin scroll set up is the optimal choice for power without sacrificing response however the 2.5 EJ257 comes with the single scroll set up and converting to the twin scroll would cost me more. Besides that, the boxer will also lose its unique rumble sound and I wanted to keep that for now.

As for this 1.5 XTR turbo, i read that it is equivalent to a GT2871 turbo and I don’t think it uses old technology.

This is the information on the turbo
http://www.bptstore.com/Subaru-WRXSTi-Dominator-15XT-R-Ball-Bearing-Turbocharger_p_25.html

Application: Subaru WRX/STi
Horsepower: 480HP

Specs
Custom low friction low inertia ceramic ball bearing CHRA
Custom high flow low inertia 56.5mm turbine wheel
Blouch 71mm XT compressor wheel supporting 49lbs./minute airflow
8cm or 10cm exhaust housing available

The Blouch Dominator 1.5XT-R is a little tweak to our already popular Dom 2.5XT-R. (As I have mentioned before, we are never satisfied with status quo and we are always tweaking something). Originally designed for our 2.0L customers in the UK, the Dom 1.5XT-R uses a custom high flow low inertia 56.5mm turbine instead of the full 60mm turbine of the Dom 2.5XT-R. The end result is a slightly quicker spooling turbo while trading off some high RPM horsepower capability.

Beyond the turbine wheel, the Dom 1.5XT-R consists of the same cutting edge turbo technology that you have come to expect from Blouch Performance Turbo: Blouch billet fully-machined closed die forged 49 lb/min XT-R compressor wheel with state-of-the-art aero, our own custom compressor housing machined in-house and designed for improved fitment, water-cooled center housing with state-of-the-art low inertia low friction ceramic ball bearing assembly and Blouch custom 10cm2 turbine housing with adjustable upgrade actuator.

No boost creep issues here with the smaller turbine - our turbine housing and wastegate actuator are designed to work together to ease your tuner's job and provide the flattest possible boost curve. All of this complete with turbo mounting gaskets, oil feed restrictor, braided stainless steel turbo oil feed line, oil drain tube, coolant pipes, banjo bolts and copper washers.

i see its made using ballbearing center core...should all good then...

and yeah some people cant accept losing the UEL sound....

but me coming from EL sound and back to UEL... i guess i still prefer the way of EL power delivery.... (still got burble sound on idle...just not as obvious as the UEL header)

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

We identified few issues, the connecting cable from the trunk to engine is not thick enough and battery power may not be sufficient, which may or may not contribute to this stuttering issue, but still does not explain the car will run fine after getting warmed up.

Another small issues are the parking gear seems to be out of place a little and sportmode is not working. Other than these issues, the car runs, corners and brakes fine.

Thanks,
Ken

since your battery in the boot... just recheck the main battery cable to the front...

add grounding points more from chassis to the engine...
as well as laying a straight cable from battery -ve side to the engine ground...


sport mode is from bmw side? i dont think it would work if the jz didnt have that function...

 

[Mitevo7]

since your battery in the boot... just recheck the main battery cable to the front...

add grounding points more from chassis to the engine...
as well as laying a straight cable from battery -ve side to the engine ground...


sport mode is from bmw side? i dont think it would work if the jz didnt have that function...

Yup thats the next thing to do, hopefully it won't cost me too much cause my budget is burst through the ceiling due to few unforeseen repairs in the engine and rear axle.

The Toyota Crown Jzs171 has steering mounted gear shifting buttons. The wiring guy is unable to link the steering mounted wire to the BMW sport gear shifter. But someone in Shah Alam can do that for me as well as realign the gear level position to stock. So i might try my luck there.

 

[Nightstalker1993]

Of course i am negotiating, i am being a nice customer which i never nego with him when he quoted me the first round. I understand times are tough but this one is intolerable. Let this be lesson to all those who wants to do some project like this. This will be one first and last conversion project. Fxxking nightmare compared to buying a new car.

We identified few issues, the connecting cable from the trunk to engine is not thick enough and battery power may not be sufficient, which may or may not contribute to this stuttering issue, but still does not explain the car will run fine after getting warmed up.

Another small issues are the parking gear seems to be out of place a little and sportmode is not working. Other than these issues, the car runs, corners and brakes fine.

Thanks,
Ken

ok la your engine conversion around 3 months from what i read earlier in this thread? At least you didn't spend 20k+ and 2 years for engine conversion + rebuild and the car is STILL not reliable with weird ass gremlins here and there like mine.

Stock battery cable SHOULD be fine. That cable isn't passing much current through it with the engine running anyway. If you can start your engine no issues and the starter doesn't sound slow, that cable shouldn't be your problem as the highest current passing through that cable is when starting anyway. Voltage issues when engine is running is definitely the charging system or grounding/positive cable from the alternator. If I were you, I would inspect all ground points, meaning wherever the cable attaches to the chassis/engine block, make sure the paint/coating is filed off and clean. Also as I mentioned earlier, positive cable from your alternator to wherever is also very important. Also, install a volt meter or a cheap turbo timer with voltage display, and take note of your voltage during those scenarios, idle, revving, cruising etc.

 

[Izso]

Guys,

Need some insight due to i burst my budget in my conversion costs. How much usually wiring costs for similar project like mine ? I am going for a hard negotiation later because the guy who did my wiring promised nice rate but now return with a ridiculous one. Please share.

Thanks,
Ken

A shop in Puchong quoted me recently if I kept my frankenstein it's 2.5k for full re-wire.

 

[Izso]

He gave reasons that he needs to source this and that to make everything works. It was a little over budget, somewhere in 2k+ to get the aircond and gauges running.

Thanks,
Ken

Cold start juddering is because either your ICV is not running or missing like my car. I have exactly that problem and ICV was my issue. Gauges and all - I told you earlier standalone with canbus cability is better than the Dayton thing you using. If you want a second opinion I can recommend a shop to you.

Come join the Volvo gang Izso

Mur mur S80 big big tank, super comfortable, cheap to buy and huge. 2.0t engine just enough power to push the heavy ass tank body while sounding sweet with the 5cyl engine hehehe

Spoke with Sid and he kinda scared me a bit with the cost of maintaining the car.

 

[Nightstalker1993]

Cold start juddering is because either your ICV is not running or missing like my car. I have exactly that problem and ICV was my issue. Gauges and all - I told you earlier standalone with canbus cability is better than the Dayton thing you using. If you want a second opinion I can recommend a shop to you.




Spoke with Sid and he kinda scared me a bit with the cost of maintaining the car.

Well, not much diff with a bimmer I'd think

 

[vr2turbo]

Then that is up to you to decide. Personally after agreeing on a said price, changing the price afterwards without informing before he did the extra work IMO is unethical la. You nego with him see how.

Cold plugs or not it shouldn't cause that issue. Like you said, turbo engines generally comes with cold plugs from factory and jerking issue is definitely not tolerable.

Yup, agree with you on the extra work price. Even my mechanic will inform me if anything is out of the initial quote, like finding something else need changing half way into the repairs.

 

[vr2turbo]

The wires are done and he requested more payment, which i am dissatisfied, we agreed on the said payment and now he said he spent on retrofitting something else to make the gauges all work, so needed more payment. I can say he's done a great job but only thing i detect is the electronics are not getting enough power, might be battery issue or grounding issue.

The plugs are old i can assure that, may be changing the plugs will cure the cold start issue as most turbo cars will use colder plugs.

Thanks,
Ken

How much more power increased from stock engine and how much colder are your plugs? I did try Denso IW22 which is No:7, but switch back to 6 since mine is still stock engine.....

 

[Mitevo7]

Cold start juddering is because either your ICV is not running or missing like my car. I have exactly that problem and ICV was my issue. Gauges and all - I told you earlier standalone with canbus cability is better than the Dayton thing you using. If you want a second opinion I can recommend a shop to you.




Spoke with Sid and he kinda scared me a bit with the cost of maintaining the car.

Cold starts fine and strong, the engine will fire up within 2 seconds cranking and fire up without signs of choking. However if you were to drive out the porch without waiting for the first fan cycle, the engine will choke itself out die off. Before the engine is promptly warm, the engine will have signs of choking and stalls itself, but if i were to start it for 5 minutes, then it will be fine for the rest of the journey, until the engine is cool down again, then this shut repeats. I still haven’t heard from my mech regarding the condition of ICV, if i am lucky, it just needed lubrication to get it open and close as usual.

I should be able to take the car back within this week, need to test run it and record anything that looks wrong.

Thanks,
Ken

 

[Mitevo7]

How much more power increased from stock engine and how much colder are your plugs? I did try Denso IW22 which is No:7, but switch back to 6 since mine is still stock engine.....

I haven’t take out the plugs yet, but the engine is bone stock when it arrived, even the turbo is still shining in the fins, probably the plugs are going out since its old.

Will keep you guys posted on the rectifying progress.

Good news, the suspected knocking sound at undercarriage is caused by loose metal plate holding the exhaust piping. Its all quiet now after added washer to i :).

Thanks,
Ken

 

[Izso]

Well, not much diff with a bimmer I'd think

I don't own a BMW. Mine was a Toyota mostly. Hahaha!

Cold starts fine and strong, the engine will fire up within 2 seconds cranking and fire up without signs of choking. However if you were to drive out the porch without waiting for the first fan cycle, the engine will choke itself out die off. Before the engine is promptly warm, the engine will have signs of choking and stalls itself, but if i were to start it for 5 minutes, then it will be fine for the rest of the journey, until the engine is cool down again, then this shut repeats. I still haven’t heard from my mech regarding the condition of ICV, if i am lucky, it just needed lubrication to get it open and close as usual.

I should be able to take the car back within this week, need to test run it and record anything that looks wrong.

Thanks,
Ken

Question : For piston 5+6 is the routing for the water heater sealed off or recirculated back into the coolant lines? This needs to be recirculated otherwise piston 5 and 6 is not getting any coolant flow.

It does sound like a problem with your ICV though. Have that one checked out and replace the MAF sensor. That bugger is stupidly sensitive in the 1JZ.

I haven’t take out the plugs yet, but the engine is bone stock when it arrived, even the turbo is still shining in the fins, probably the plugs are going out since its old.

Will keep you guys posted on the rectifying progress.

Good news, the suspected knocking sound at undercarriage is caused by loose metal plate holding the exhaust piping. Its all quiet now after added washer to i :).

Thanks,
Ken

I spent RM640 replacing 6 iridium plugs recently. My bloody god it's not cheap for a 6-cyl car. Oh well.

 

[Mitevo7]

I don't own a BMW. Mine was a Toyota mostly. Hahaha!


Question : For piston 5+6 is the routing for the water heater sealed off or recirculated back into the coolant lines? This needs to be recirculated otherwise piston 5 and 6 is not getting any coolant flow.

It does sound like a problem with your ICV though. Have that one checked out and replace the MAF sensor. That bugger is stupidly sensitive in the 1JZ.



I spent RM640 replacing 6 iridium plugs recently. My bloody god it's not cheap for a 6-cyl car. Oh well.

I think its ICV problem now, when cold start (literally) the engine RPM straight stay at 700 rpm without usual raising up to 1200rpm and went down after its warmed. We will clean the ICV first and monitor again. No fault codw at MAF though.

Thanks,
Ken

 

[Izso]

My car is officially gone. Sold. Poof. Elsewhere.

 

[vr2turbo]

I spent RM640 replacing 6 iridium plugs recently. My bloody god it's not cheap for a 6-cyl car. Oh well.

Wow! your plugs really expensive. Mine last time RM160 for 4 pcs already I say expensive.......lol

 

[sweelt]

My car is officially gone. Sold. Poof. Elsewhere.

Any new thread for next car ?