1jz E36 BMW frankensteining

[sanekit]

get this spacious family wagon with automatic transmission and 300bhp.

 

[YellowFlash]

Any reason you opted for this turbo? I'm a complete noob with turbos so any advice would be great

haha, I am not a turbo expert either but I had a few considerations before finally narrowing down to this turbo. There was a certain horsepower goal, i did not want to sacrifice too much response and it must fit the rest of my mods. I was also looking at turbos that has been tested and proven on the EJ257 block with actual power output. After much research, i kind of narrowed down to these 3 turbos, the COBB TD05-20G, a BPT TD06-20G XTR and this Dominator 1.5 XTR. I was looking at around 400 to 450 hp on a moderate tune on pump gas.

Ideally, the COBB 20G has the response that i was looking at, it can hit full boost at 3500 rpm and it had a max rated output of up to 400HP. The problem is that the 400HP would probably be a very aggressive tune on E85 with full supporting mods race fuel or at least methanol injection kit. The other flip side is that the TD05-20G is not very much larger than the stock VF48 turbo and will run out of steam before reaching redline. Next is the TD06-20G XTR from blouch which has a similar 20G compressor but a slightly larger turbine and therefore it is able to push to a higher 430HP. It is a ball bearing turbo hence it spools similarly or even better than the COBB's Journal Bearing TD05. However with this turbo, i may or may not be able to achieve my goal as 430HP was also with an aggressive tune on E85 race fuel.

Lastly, the ball bearing Dominator series which blouch is popular for, these series of turbos comes in different sizes as well. From 1.0, 1.5, 2.5, 3.0 and even 4.0, with the bigger number indicating bigger size. The one i got is the Dom 1.5 XTR which has a max output of up to 480HP. There were a few reasons why i chose his turbo, i will be able to achieve my HP goal on a conservative to moderate tune, it is only about 60 USD price higher than the 20G XTR and it uses a Garett housing. Though it spools slightly later due to a larger turbine, with a proper tune it can achieve full boost at 4,000 rpm and screams all the way till redline. Besides, i am planning to rebuild my engine and this turbo would be a good fit for the power that the forged engine can handle.

 

[Izso]

Sell Myvi then. better value to sell and get a family car with it. X70 perhaps

@Izso, sell myvi laa. get new myvi. 1jz frankenstein slow slow rebuild.

Ok let me explain my situation.

1. Wife does not like to drive anything bigger than her Myvi. In fact she's only ever done it once with an Alza out of necessity and complained about how much of a hassle it was and difficult it was. And as stereotypical as this may sound, she admits it herself - she's not a good driver. Although she's never had any accidents (touch wood) she has never exceeded 90km/h even on a highway and on normal roads 60km/h to 80km/h is the max she'll go. Her friends have affectionately nick named her the "tortoise". And she is literally unable to parallel park her Myvi, give her a bigger car and she'll give up.
   
   
2. The Myvi is already fully paid for. But I have a sneaky feeling the timing chain is stretched hence the loss of power and sluggish feel. I've almost changed everything else in that hunk of garbage of a car. If that timing chain gives it's gonna cost RM3-4k but that's still cheaper than a new car to some extent.
   
   
3. Building the frankenstein to my specifications (and I'm bloody anal) is going to take too much money. I can't afford it especially with two growing kids (primary school) and a non-working wife (for now). I'd rather enjoy life with a nice car and accommodate my family doing so, than to struggle with a project car I enjoy driving sometimes when it decides to have a good day.
   
   
4. As much as I hate to admit it, the Myvi FC is somewhat unbeatable so that car can't go until I make enough to cover fuel and maintenance costs for 4 cars (I have 2 Myvis, 1 innova and my own BMW to maintain). Daily-ing RON97 all day in a turbo car is just not going to work for me la long term. Unless I strike it rich somehow, then I'll definitely have a project car.

And interestingly I posted the car for sale in FB and in 1 day I'll be having 2 potential buyers viewing the car on Sunday. Jeez.. if only it were this easy to sell the Porsche.

 

[gunnerzz]

Ok let me explain my situation.

1. Wife does not like to drive anything bigger than her Myvi. In fact she's only ever done it once with an Alza out of necessity and complained about how much of a hassle it was and difficult it was. And as stereotypical as this may sound, she admits it herself - she's not a good driver. Although she's never had any accidents (touch wood) she has never exceeded 90km/h even on a highway and on normal roads 60km/h to 80km/h is the max she'll go. Her friends have affectionately nick named her the "tortoise". And she is literally unable to parallel park her Myvi, give her a bigger car and she'll give up.
   
   
2. The Myvi is already fully paid for. But I have a sneaky feeling the timing chain is stretched hence the loss of power and sluggish feel. I've almost changed everything else in that hunk of garbage of a car. If that timing chain gives it's gonna cost RM3-4k but that's still cheaper than a new car to some extent.
   
   
3. Building the frankenstein to my specifications (and I'm bloody anal) is going to take too much money. I can't afford it especially with two growing kids (primary school) and a non-working wife (for now). I'd rather enjoy life with a nice car and accommodate my family doing so, than to struggle with a project car I enjoy driving sometimes when it decides to have a good day.
   
   
4. As much as I hate to admit it, the Myvi FC is somewhat unbeatable so that car can't go until I make enough to cover fuel and maintenance costs for 4 cars (I have 2 Myvis, 1 innova and my own BMW to maintain). Daily-ing RON97 all day in a turbo car is just not going to work for me la long term. Unless I strike it rich somehow, then I'll definitely have a project car.

And interestingly I posted the car for sale in FB and in 1 day I'll be having 2 potential buyers viewing the car on Sunday. Jeez.. if only it were this easy to sell the Porsche.

Sell BMW+Innova then get a diesel SUV.
Sorry if i annoyed u by keep on suggesting an oil burner. I'm still 'high' on last friday torque experience. Diesel suv is the sort of the children u get when the Innova and yr BMW gets married.

Your BMW is considered as 'cuci kaki terus drive' in some (maybe 'most') people books so its going to be very easy selling it.

 

[sweelt]

Ok let me explain my situation.

1. Wife does not like to drive anything bigger than her Myvi. In fact she's only ever done it once with an Alza out of necessity and complained about how much of a hassle it was and difficult it was. And as stereotypical as this may sound, she admits it herself - she's not a good driver. Although she's never had any accidents (touch wood) she has never exceeded 90km/h even on a highway and on normal roads 60km/h to 80km/h is the max she'll go. Her friends have affectionately nick named her the "tortoise". And she is literally unable to parallel park her Myvi, give her a bigger car and she'll give up.
   
   
2. The Myvi is already fully paid for. But I have a sneaky feeling the timing chain is stretched hence the loss of power and sluggish feel. I've almost changed everything else in that hunk of garbage of a car. If that timing chain gives it's gonna cost RM3-4k but that's still cheaper than a new car to some extent.
   
   
3. Building the frankenstein to my specifications (and I'm bloody anal) is going to take too much money. I can't afford it especially with two growing kids (primary school) and a non-working wife (for now). I'd rather enjoy life with a nice car and accommodate my family doing so, than to struggle with a project car I enjoy driving sometimes when it decides to have a good day.
   
   
4. As much as I hate to admit it, the Myvi FC is somewhat unbeatable so that car can't go until I make enough to cover fuel and maintenance costs for 4 cars (I have 2 Myvis, 1 innova and my own BMW to maintain). Daily-ing RON97 all day in a turbo car is just not going to work for me la long term. Unless I strike it rich somehow, then I'll definitely have a project car.

And interestingly I posted the car for sale in FB and in 1 day I'll be having 2 potential buyers viewing the car on Sunday. Jeez.. if only it were this easy to sell the Porsche.

You got strong point there. Feel it smack on my face.
Sorry boss.

 

[vr2turbo]

Let the Myvi go......hhahhahahhahahahhahahhahahha

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

haha, I am not a turbo expert either but I had a few considerations before finally narrowing down to this turbo. There was a certain horsepower goal, i did not want to sacrifice too much response and it must fit the rest of my mods. I was also looking at turbos that has been tested and proven on the EJ257 block with actual power output. After much research, i kind of narrowed down to these 3 turbos, the COBB TD05-20G, a BPT TD06-20G XTR and this Dominator 1.5 XTR. I was looking at around 400 to 450 hp on a moderate tune on pump gas.

Ideally, the COBB 20G has the response that i was looking at, it can hit full boost at 3500 rpm and it had a max rated output of up to 400HP. The problem is that the 400HP would probably be a very aggressive tune on E85 with full supporting mods race fuel or at least methanol injection kit. The other flip side is that the TD05-20G is not very much larger than the stock VF48 turbo and will run out of steam before reaching redline. Next is the TD06-20G XTR from blouch which has a similar 20G compressor but a slightly larger turbine and therefore it is able to push to a higher 430HP. It is a ball bearing turbo hence it spools similarly or even better than the COBB's Journal Bearing TD05. However with this turbo, i may or may not be able to achieve my goal as 430HP was also with an aggressive tune on E85 race fuel.

Lastly, the ball bearing Dominator series which blouch is popular for, these series of turbos comes in different sizes as well. From 1.0, 1.5, 2.5, 3.0 and even 4.0, with the bigger number indicating bigger size. The one i got is the Dom 1.5 XTR which has a max output of up to 480HP. There were a few reasons why i chose his turbo, i will be able to achieve my HP goal on a conservative to moderate tune, it is only about 60 USD price higher than the 20G XTR and it uses a Garett housing. Though it spools slightly later due to a larger turbine, with a proper tune it can achieve full boost at 4,000 rpm and screams all the way till redline. Besides, i am planning to rebuild my engine and this turbo would be a good fit for the power that the forged engine can handle.

no no no no... stay away from those american turbo... UNLESS...u were talking their twinscroll ballbearing series... (like garret gt2860 pnp for subaru turbo unit)

going twinscroll turbo is the best bet u can get with big power without sacrificing spool up time (lags)


plus all those turbo u've listed is based from old gen turbo with pretty basic core design..sure with modern updated hybrid system...it still wont match with newer modern turbo core design with better bearings and blades design...

 

[6UE5t]

It drives really well. I manually tweaked it lower boost and the meter tells me 0.5bar saja and boy it's good.

But I'm putting the car up for sale now because I'm in desperate need of a family car and family making noise now cuz my "family car" not really family friendly.

What the hell? Can make money from it?

 

[YellowFlash]

no no no no... stay away from those american turbo... UNLESS...u were talking their twinscroll ballbearing series... (like garret gt2860 pnp for subaru turbo unit)

going twinscroll turbo is the best bet u can get with big power without sacrificing spool up time (lags)


plus all those turbo u've listed is based from old gen turbo with pretty basic core design..sure with modern updated hybrid system...it still wont match with newer modern turbo core design with better bearings and blades design...

Ideally the twin scroll set up is the optimal choice for power without sacrificing response however the 2.5 EJ257 comes with the single scroll set up and converting to the twin scroll would cost me more. Besides that, the boxer will also lose its unique rumble sound and I wanted to keep that for now.

As for this 1.5 XTR turbo, i read that it is equivalent to a GT2871 turbo and I don’t think it uses old technology.

This is the information on the turbo
http://www.bptstore.com/Subaru-WRXSTi-Dominator-15XT-R-Ball-Bearing-Turbocharger_p_25.html

Application: Subaru WRX/STi
Horsepower: 480HP

Specs
Custom low friction low inertia ceramic ball bearing CHRA
Custom high flow low inertia 56.5mm turbine wheel
Blouch 71mm XT compressor wheel supporting 49lbs./minute airflow
8cm or 10cm exhaust housing available

The Blouch Dominator 1.5XT-R is a little tweak to our already popular Dom 2.5XT-R. (As I have mentioned before, we are never satisfied with status quo and we are always tweaking something). Originally designed for our 2.0L customers in the UK, the Dom 1.5XT-R uses a custom high flow low inertia 56.5mm turbine instead of the full 60mm turbine of the Dom 2.5XT-R. The end result is a slightly quicker spooling turbo while trading off some high RPM horsepower capability.

Beyond the turbine wheel, the Dom 1.5XT-R consists of the same cutting edge turbo technology that you have come to expect from Blouch Performance Turbo: Blouch billet fully-machined closed die forged 49 lb/min XT-R compressor wheel with state-of-the-art aero, our own custom compressor housing machined in-house and designed for improved fitment, water-cooled center housing with state-of-the-art low inertia low friction ceramic ball bearing assembly and Blouch custom 10cm2 turbine housing with adjustable upgrade actuator.

No boost creep issues here with the smaller turbine - our turbine housing and wastegate actuator are designed to work together to ease your tuner's job and provide the flattest possible boost curve. All of this complete with turbo mounting gaskets, oil feed restrictor, braided stainless steel turbo oil feed line, oil drain tube, coolant pipes, banjo bolts and copper washers.

 

[Mitevo7]

Guys,

Need some insight due to i burst my budget in my conversion costs. How much usually wiring costs for similar project like mine ? I am going for a hard negotiation later because the guy who did my wiring promised nice rate but now return with a ridiculous one. Please share.

Thanks,
Ken

 

[vr2turbo]

Guys,

Need some insight due to i burst my budget in my conversion costs. How much usually wiring costs for similar project like mine ? I am going for a hard negotiation later because the guy who did my wiring promised nice rate but now return with a ridiculous one. Please share.

Thanks,
Ken

Wow! you did not agree on a price before doing?

 

[Mitevo7]

Wow! you did not agree on a price before doing?

He gave reasons that he needs to source this and that to make everything works. It was a little over budget, somewhere in 2k+ to get the aircond and gauges running.

Thanks,
Ken

 

[Mitevo7]

One more thing, the 1jz engine seems to need to warm up for almost 5 minutes before driving. Otherwise it will jerk and stalls. My mech said it has something to do with the spark plug cause it uses colder range. Any remedy to this as i didn’t really modify anything.

Thanks,
Ken

 

[vr2turbo]

One more thing, the 1jz engine seems to need to warm up for almost 5 minutes before driving. Otherwise it will jerk and stalls. My mech said it has something to do with the spark plug cause it uses colder range. Any remedy to this as i didn’t really modify anything.

Thanks,
Ken

Should not take so long to warm up, your engine running with thermostat, right?

 

[sanekit]

One more thing, the 1jz engine seems to need to warm up for almost 5 minutes before driving. Otherwise it will jerk and stalls. My mech said it has something to do with the spark plug cause it uses colder range. Any remedy to this as i didn’t really modify anything.

Thanks,
Ken

your ISCV working? it should have a cold start choke function that raise the rpm up.

 

[Mitevo7]

Should not take so long to warm up, your engine running with thermostat, right?

As far as i know yes running on thermostart, the cooling system is still using BMW's M43. No signs of overheating during town driving or fast driving

your ISCV working? it should have a cold start choke function that raise the rpm up.

We need to check that then. I haven't seen it cold start by myself.

Thanks,
Ken

 

[sanekit]

We need to check that then. I haven't seen it cold start by myself.

Thanks,
Ken

Should have a choke or idle control valve for cold start especially on auto coz you dont need to wait for the idling to rise up to normal idling on temp.

 

[Nightstalker1993]

He gave reasons that he needs to source this and that to make everything works. It was a little over budget, somewhere in 2k+ to get the aircond and gauges running.

Thanks,
Ken

Is he fabricating the loom completely from scratch or is he just patching it up here and there? If he is making the loom from scratch then I think it's fair. Wiring ain't no easy job and it really takes knowledge, experience and attention to detail to do it properly. If he does a good job then I guess it's worth it, just have a look at izso's e36 wiring when he first got it.....

One more thing, the 1jz engine seems to need to warm up for almost 5 minutes before driving. Otherwise it will jerk and stalls. My mech said it has something to do with the spark plug cause it uses colder range. Any remedy to this as i didn’t really modify anything.

Thanks,
Ken

That should not happen. I have a feeling some sensor might be not working properly. if it's really the plug heat range, just remove the plug and check the code and see if it matches with what a jz needs.

get this spacious family wagon with automatic transmission and 300bhp.

Come join the Volvo gang Izso

https://www.mudah.my/2005+Volvo+S80+2+0T+A+Tip+Top+Condition-71482964.htm

Mur mur S80 big big tank, super comfortable, cheap to buy and huge. 2.0t engine just enough power to push the heavy ass tank body while sounding sweet with the 5cyl engine hehehe

 

[Mitevo7]

Is he fabricating the loom completely from scratch or is he just patching it up here and there? If he is making the loom from scratch then I think it's fair. Wiring ain't no easy job and it really takes knowledge, experience and attention to detail to do it properly. If he does a good job then I guess it's worth it, just have a look at izso's e36 wiring when he first got it.....



That should not happen. I have a feeling some sensor might be not working properly. if it's really the plug heat range, just remove the plug and check the code and see if it matches with what a jz needs.

He is patching from the original car to my BMW, the job took 3 weeks to be done, with many days he is absent.

As for the plug, it came with the engine, never checked myself before, so i think i will start there first before going into something big.

Thanks,
Ken

 

[Nightstalker1993]

He is patching from the original car to my BMW, the job took 3 weeks to be done, with many days he is absent.

As for the plug, it came with the engine, never checked myself before, so i think i will start there first before going into something big.

Thanks,
Ken

Well, we don't see the work he's done, only you see it up close in person. You can ask your other mechanic on his opinion, and you judge yourself whether what he's asking is fair based on the quality of work he has done. If the wiring job he did is good, soldered/crimped, heatshrink, routed properly then that should be good. If all he did is cut, twist and wire tape, wires all over the place then I'd suggest looking for another wireman.

If the plugs came with the engine, save your trouble, google the code of the plug you need, go to spare part shop and straight away buy and replace. Up to you to get copper, iridiums or NGK platinum, pretty much no difference when new, only difference is the longevity.