1jz E36 BMW frankensteining

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Apparently my idea don't work. Due to the motorcycle gear indicator can not read PNRD not 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 from automatic transmission. Guess i have to get the expensive solution.

Thanks,
Ken
even the ones for cars doesnt show PND. it only shows 1-2-3-4 if i'm not mistaken. need to check again.
 
I got to test drove it (finally) properly on highways, the conversion was a success ! No weird front end vibration nor disconnected feeling between the engine and the chassis.

Issues found:
1.) The headlights of the car seems to be dimmer and only get brighter when throttle is applied. Think there's power disruption or just weak battery which i haven't change for the last 4 years.

2.) There's knocking sound from the rear lower arm too, probably the bushings went out due to suspended in the mid air for excessive period of time.

3.) Gear lever is not perfect inline, will need to send this to another specialist that can make it perfectly inline with stock BMW gear lever

4.) Sport mode or shiftronic is not available, will need another specialist that can wire this probably with some additional costs.

Other than that the conversion is flawless, engine is very powerful, brakes are still sufficient (need better brake pads and disc rotors). Stock absorber and springs are sufficient, no excessive rolling or nose dive when driven hard. I do detect some rear squat when accelerating hard, however overall the driving experience is still pretty satisfying and pretty much feel much like stock.

Verdict:
Before conversion, please upgrade the suspension components like higher grade absorber, bushings, antiroll bars or whatever so the car can take much abuse. Brakes to be upgraded to 325 or 330 model so that you will have stronger bite and larger disc. The overall conversion cost me 20k while excluding brake and suspension upgrade, fortunately the CI's absorber is sufficient to handle. Otherwise i wouldn't dare to drive the car fast.

Thanks,
Ken

Nice bro, congrats. Regard #1, could be a grounding issue. Probably has nothing to do with the battery and more likely the alternator.
 
Latest update : So I kept harping on issues and I found out a few of them was caused by a loosened manual boost controller. After tightening it back up it's boosting fine again without wheel spinning, probably because I lowered the boost. The electronic boost controller is ready to be hooked up but waiting to do with ECU and tune.
 
Apparently my idea don't work. Due to the motorcycle gear indicator can not read PNRD not 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 from automatic transmission. Guess i have to get the expensive solution.

Thanks,
Ken
Yup, motorcycle gear indicato can only display numbers not letters.
They can read the signal from PRND but they will display numbers. Unless u want to be different from others..1 is P, 2 is R, 3 is N, and so on.
In theory u cam wired it so it will show what gear u r in when in D. Kinda pointless with auto tranny.
 
In theory u cam wired it so it will show what gear u r in when in D. Kinda pointless with auto tranny.
can. need to wire it at the tcu, at the solenoid engagement wires. i read about it for mitsu gearbox. heck, u can even do a custom pedal shift to control the solenoid directly and bypass the tcu on a mitsu gearbox. sadly, i dunno how to do that on toyota gearbox. LOL.
 
can. need to wire it at the tcu, at the solenoid engagement wires. i read about it for mitsu gearbox. heck, u can even do a custom pedal shift to control the solenoid directly and bypass the tcu on a mitsu gearbox. sadly, i dunno how to do that on toyota gearbox. LOL.
U can always be the first one to do it....same concept and theory. Only different is the colour of the wire u need to tap...hopefully without detroying the ecu or tcu..hihi
 
U can always be the first one to do it....same concept and theory. Only different is the colour of the wire u need to tap...hopefully without detroying the ecu or tcu..hihi
no time to work on it. all mods currently on hold because of family commitments. LOL.
 
Stock 1JZGTE VVTI ECU hooked up on Dakota Universal Tachometer Interface to power up the instrument cluster. Meter is running fine except for the RPM, reads slightly lower.

Thanks,
Ken


if u have any way to connect to 1jz ecu via obd2 reader and compare the rpm with the one shown on your gauge cluster if it varies...
 
Really ? If that would solve my obsession of perfect, i would swap it to a 6 Cyl meter right away, but i am curious, what was the basis anyway ? For your case, what is the difference between GSR and V6 meter and why would the RPM read so much different before and after swap?

Thanks,
Ken


gsr is 4pot mitsu engine..

stockc perdana v6 is 6pot mmc engine... coz he's running evo3 swapped engine..hence the need for 4pot gauge cluster to match rpm reading...


on your case need to check actual rpm directly from ecu first via obd2 or any other way to check to compare on what rpm is shown on your gauge cluster
 
Yes almost all the BMW stuff works, AC control, ABS, Traction, water temperature, wiper fluid, brake pad sensor and speedometer all working fine, except for tachometer, reads a little low. I have so called the best wireman in Klang to work on my car, so i will see how the car performs at the end of project.

Almost all the essentials are working, except for gear position indicator, i need to use an aftermarket gear position indicator to show which gear i am in, especially when playing with sport mode. I am think of installing those motorcycle universal gear indicator to read my gearbox position, don't know whether it can work or not. Any bright ideas ?

Thanks,
Ken


i think its possible to work...need to look up wiring diagram for 1jz tcu output first and your gauge position indicatior to compare and merge
 
So what's the news on the BMW Frankenstein today?? Haven't been following too much lately coz busy with new job.
 
even the ones for cars doesnt show PND. it only shows 1-2-3-4 if i'm not mistaken. need to check again.

You can refer to dakota digital, they made one solely for automatic transmission thats shows PNRD. However the retail price is USD80 bucks.

Thanks,
Ken
 
Nice bro, congrats. Regard #1, could be a grounding issue. Probably has nothing to do with the battery and more likely the alternator.

Our assumption is that the stock Toyota grounding is not as efficient as the BMW's. Furthermore, stock BMW E46 battery is located at the back and we probably need a larger cable to connect the power to the alternator so it charges efficiently. I also detected power windows are working very slowly. We will start of the cheaper option, install larger cable and larger battery terminal to normalize the voltage.

Thanks,
Ken
 
if u have any way to connect to 1jz ecu via obd2 reader and compare the rpm with the one shown on your gauge cluster if it varies...

My previous post already mentioned we sort out with re-calibration, the engine reads 680 rpm in oppose of original 700+ rpm.

Thanks,
Ken
 
i think its possible to work...need to look up wiring diagram for 1jz tcu output first and your gauge position indicatior to compare and merge

I need a magic wireman to do that stuff, current electrician said that he needed to test out total of 26 relays just to compare and merge the gear position indicator. He advised its faster to just install aftermarket gear position indicator, if there's one.

Thanks,
Ken
 
So what's the news on the BMW Frankenstein today?? Haven't been following too much lately coz busy with new job.

Izso's monster has manual boost controller leak, fixed and ready for ecu tune.

Thanks,
Ken
 
I got to test drove it (finally) properly on highways, the conversion was a success ! No weird front end vibration nor disconnected feeling between the engine and the chassis.

Issues found:
1.) The headlights of the car seems to be dimmer and only get brighter when throttle is applied. Think there's power disruption or just weak battery which i haven't change for the last 4 years.

2.) There's knocking sound from the rear lower arm too, probably the bushings went out due to suspended in the mid air for excessive period of time.

3.) Gear lever is not perfect inline, will need to send this to another specialist that can make it perfectly inline with stock BMW gear lever

4.) Sport mode or shiftronic is not available, will need another specialist that can wire this probably with some additional costs.

Other than that the conversion is flawless, engine is very powerful, brakes are still sufficient (need better brake pads and disc rotors). Stock absorber and springs are sufficient, no excessive rolling or nose dive when driven hard. I do detect some rear squat when accelerating hard, however overall the driving experience is still pretty satisfying and pretty much feel much like stock.

Verdict:
Before conversion, please upgrade the suspension components like higher grade absorber, bushings, antiroll bars or whatever so the car can take much abuse. Brakes to be upgraded to 325 or 330 model so that you will have stronger bite and larger disc. The overall conversion cost me 20k while excluding brake and suspension upgrade, fortunately the CI's absorber is sufficient to handle. Otherwise i wouldn't dare to drive the car fast.

Thanks,
Ken
Congrats, hope you can get those issues settled and then can enjoy your ride......:driver:
 
Latest update : So I kept harping on issues and I found out a few of them was caused by a loosened manual boost controller. After tightening it back up it's boosting fine again without wheel spinning, probably because I lowered the boost. The electronic boost controller is ready to be hooked up but waiting to do with ECU and tune.
Walauyeh.... still finding loose stuff......:banghead:
 
It drives really well. I manually tweaked it lower boost and the meter tells me 0.5bar saja and boy it's good.

But I'm putting the car up for sale now because I'm in desperate need of a family car and family making noise now cuz my "family car" not really family friendly.
 

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