But your picture shows like current one was grind down?ya memang leave it ma. Want it look nice for what, it's hiding underneath heat shields cannot even see
But your picture shows like current one was grind down?ya memang leave it ma. Want it look nice for what, it's hiding underneath heat shields cannot even see
Nope it wasn't. TIG welding tend to look like that, but probably their welding equipment was not set powerful enough for full penetrationBut your picture shows like current one was grind down?
i got butyl sealant if u want. hahahaSo far temperature still ok, but got gap at the top......lol
Thanks, leave first see what can be done.....loli got butyl sealant if u want. hahaha
Butyl sealant melt worr lateri got butyl sealant if u want. hahaha
Oh! drip on fan, later fan get stuck......lolButyl sealant melt worr later
see how la, maybe just keep one side see who want haha.Bro, gotta skip the Maradyne fan as earlier suggested. Funds too tight this round.
Actuator = wastegate?
Not too sure about that, this one I think macam the fella weld managed to go all the way through to the metal as he only welded the outside. And locally in Malaysia I think it would be very hard to find somebody welding using that method. Maybe Tong Turbo does it but their manifolds are like triple of what I paid for mineHandling must be awesome with that kinda bushes.. and that weld splatter, I was watching all these car shows on youtube and the cause for this splatter is no argon gas used when welding? I dunno what the term is but I see the way they weld these pipes, they first seal the pipe off, feed argon gas in and then only weld on top. Something about oxidation or something something.
Hmmm not too sure about that as I am also facing voltage drop during high rev.13.2v is a good figure during idle.
no need to worry about your alternator.
Upgrading to higher capacity wont show better figure during idle as the current output is low at idling rpm.Alternator output graph is similar to hp graph of an engine.
Occasionally it drops to 12.3v during high revs according to my datalog so yeah...Battery voltage is around 12.4 to 12.6, anything above 13 is still charging the battery
Poison apa? You also can ma.poisonnnnnn
Regulator cut the charging?Hmmm not too sure about that as I am also facing voltage drop during high rev.
Occasionally it drops to 12.3v during high revs according to my datalog so yeah...
I also dunno, because apparently my 4 wire alternator, 2 wire go to ecu but now I using standalone, never sambung any alternator wire to ecu also.....Regulator cut the charging?
1.5mm gasket. Interesting thing is the brand of the kit is SOWA but the gasket itself have Mitsubishi markings :roll:
Copper-sprayed the gasket then installed the ARP head studs
Hi bro, thanks for your concern. Yes I do also somewhat agree that it should be fine without copper spray, but my mechanic here uses it on his builds and he recommends it. I personally think it wouldn't do much, but it shouldn't make it worse as well. Using the permatex branded one a d they recommend it for head gaskets as well so it should be fine. My previous engine build also use copper spray and it worked pretty well.errr... actuall that gasket design u not need to spray copper on it...
the black rubber/silicone on gasket perimeter is already a good sealant....
when u spray copper on it, then it will be easier for leakage...
Heat shield blocks heat by radiation completely and the heatshield itself would not heat up as much by convection(physically through hot air after being heated by the manifold) as there is a decent air gap between the manifold and the heatshield. Heatwrap may reduce the amount of heat by radiation but I believe it won't stop it completely and since the heat wrap material itself is physically contacting the manifold itself, the heat wrap material can get pretty hot itself although not as hot as bare metal. It may not be 800c worth of radiating heat, but 300c of radiating heat is still Alot of heat being emitted. Also, wrapping the manifold will be a beech and there are cases where manifolds crack after being heat wrapped, then again mine cracked without heat wrap...what makes you go for heatsheild vs exhaust wrap?