4g93 Mivec Turbo Waja project(Many pictures be warned)

Nightstalker1993

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Speaking of fans, got ANOTHER SPAL puller fan this time to replace the aged Maradyne just for good measure. This one has a thicker and larger motor compared to the 13" pusher i bought and flows alot of air :biggrin:




Middle is the new SPAL puller, on the right is the SPAL pusher and on the left with the gold sticker is the old Maradyne.


Cool original SPAL bracket for my pusher. Need this if installing for pusher setup as conventional bracket will have it flush with the fan, leaving you no way to actually use bolts at the bracket.


And also bought a super fast reaction open-element NTC Intake Air Temperature sensor to replace the standard Mitsubishi closed-element style sensor.
 
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Izso

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Bro, gotta skip the Maradyne fan as earlier suggested. Funds too tight this round.

Actuator = wastegate?
 

Nightstalker1993

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Bro, gotta skip the Maradyne fan as earlier suggested. Funds too tight this round.

Actuator = wastegate?
see how la, maybe just keep one side see who want haha.

And yes, i'm still using my stock turbo flapper 'wastegate', so the actuator controls that flapper
 

Nightstalker1993

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Some update, manifold came back already and is already installed


When you buy a new manifold or when welding an old one, make sure you check for welding splatters which may come loose and wreak havoc on your turbine wheel. Saw this and grinded it off with a porting tool.


Also managed to replace my front LH side lower arm bush yesterday. Relatively easy to DIY, just 4 bolts literally. The front circular bush just hammer out and the rear square bush have to hold the bush with a bench vice and pry the arm out.


Old forward bush was really worn out and had freeplay in it, rubber also hardened and cracked already. These bush most probably was since the car came out from the factory in 2001.


With the new bush installed.




Installed the lower arm bush myself in around 1-2 hours time, will continue with the RH side later today. Do myself because mau save labour abit :laugh: . The forward bush was hard to get aligned because the rear bush hole is offset making the front bush offset slightly with the hole, have to use some brute force to get the bolt through.

Note to those interested in using PU bush, PU bushes NEEDS grease to work, please apply the grease that comes together with your bushing kit or search for Silicone Grease. If your PU bushing kit does not comes with or the seller claims it does not need grease, just walk away....
 
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Izso

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Handling must be awesome with that kinda bushes.. and that weld splatter, I was watching all these car shows on youtube and the cause for this splatter is no argon gas used when welding? I dunno what the term is but I see the way they weld these pipes, they first seal the pipe off, feed argon gas in and then only weld on top. Something about oxidation or something something.
 

Nightstalker1993

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Handling must be awesome with that kinda bushes.. and that weld splatter, I was watching all these car shows on youtube and the cause for this splatter is no argon gas used when welding? I dunno what the term is but I see the way they weld these pipes, they first seal the pipe off, feed argon gas in and then only weld on top. Something about oxidation or something something.
Not too sure about that, this one I think macam the fella weld managed to go all the way through to the metal as he only welded the outside. And locally in Malaysia I think it would be very hard to find somebody welding using that method. Maybe Tong Turbo does it but their manifolds are like triple of what I paid for mine :laugh:
 

Nightstalker1993

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My car is done for now, manifold welded and installed, oil pump changed, new SPAL fans installed and running.

The fans sounds louder than my engine now! Sounds like a bloody aircraft is taking off! Tested in the hot afternoon after letting the car cook for awhile, the aircond runs cool when idling under the hot sun now and the aircond cools down pretty quickly as compared to before, like how it used to be when it was 4g18! Fans are important guys, get a SPAL if you're replacing your standard fans.


Also these fans really KICK in, voltage from 13.5v, dips briefly to 12.7v then stabilises around 13.2v with my headlamps, aircond and all running. Now worried my alternator might not be up to the challenge to supply all the current. Next project maybe to install a supercapacitor to stabilize the voltage drop caused by the inrush current of the fans...


Also, PU bushings are awesome! Now the arm doesn't flex as much when the LSD chatters, yet to test the benefits of the 'anti lift' and extra castor feature of the bush, but steering feels pretty spot on during some mild corners. Actuator spring also performing almost just the way I want, giving me 0.6-0.67bar of boost with just the spring, will bring it up to 1.2bar with boost control in the near future.
 
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gunnerzz

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13.2v is a good figure during idle.
no need to worry about your alternator.

Upgrading to higher capacity wont show better figure during idle as the current output is low at idling rpm.Alternator output graph is similar to hp graph of an engine.
 

vr2turbo

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Battery voltage is around 12.4 to 12.6, anything above 13 is still charging the battery
 

Nightstalker1993

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13.2v is a good figure during idle.
no need to worry about your alternator.

Upgrading to higher capacity wont show better figure during idle as the current output is low at idling rpm.Alternator output graph is similar to hp graph of an engine.
Hmmm not too sure about that as I am also facing voltage drop during high rev.

Battery voltage is around 12.4 to 12.6, anything above 13 is still charging the battery
Occasionally it drops to 12.3v during high revs according to my datalog so yeah...




Some photos of the fans install






Have to smash that intake pipe when I'm back from outstation, still barely touching the fan motor.

Also replaced my oil pump during the fan install and the oil pressure like about the same only. Might be considering rerouting the oil cooler for shorter oil lines or try installing the pressure sensor at the sandwich plate as the current location of the sensor is actually at the head.
 
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Nightstalker1993

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poisonnnnnn
Poison apa? You also can ma.

Just ordered a bunch of Cusco LSD Mission Oil GL-4 75w85 because this is what's supposed to be used for FWD gearboxes requiring GL-4 with mechanical LSD. Pray no kena tax, and pray this actually smoothens the chatter....



Next project to remove the gearbox and set the LSD to a less aggressive setting...
 

^pomen_GTR^

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1.5mm gasket. Interesting thing is the brand of the kit is SOWA but the gasket itself have Mitsubishi markings :roll:


Copper-sprayed the gasket then installed the ARP head studs


errr... actuall that gasket design u not need to spray copper on it...

the black rubber/silicone on gasket perimeter is already a good sealant....

when u spray copper on it, then it will be easier for leakage...
 

Nightstalker1993

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errr... actuall that gasket design u not need to spray copper on it...

the black rubber/silicone on gasket perimeter is already a good sealant....

when u spray copper on it, then it will be easier for leakage...
Hi bro, thanks for your concern. Yes I do also somewhat agree that it should be fine without copper spray, but my mechanic here uses it on his builds and he recommends it. I personally think it wouldn't do much, but it shouldn't make it worse as well. Using the permatex branded one a d they recommend it for head gaskets as well so it should be fine. My previous engine build also use copper spray and it worked pretty well.

https://www.permatex.com/products/g...rmatex-copper-spray-a-gasket-hi-temp-sealant/
 
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Nightstalker1993

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what makes you go for heatsheild vs exhaust wrap?
Heat shield blocks heat by radiation completely and the heatshield itself would not heat up as much by convection(physically through hot air after being heated by the manifold) as there is a decent air gap between the manifold and the heatshield. Heatwrap may reduce the amount of heat by radiation but I believe it won't stop it completely and since the heat wrap material itself is physically contacting the manifold itself, the heat wrap material can get pretty hot itself although not as hot as bare metal. It may not be 800c worth of radiating heat, but 300c of radiating heat is still Alot of heat being emitted. Also, wrapping the manifold will be a beech and there are cases where manifolds crack after being heat wrapped, then again mine cracked without heat wrap...

Its not to say that heat wrap is bad, I just believe that heat shield is more effective than heat wrap for my specific application as my heatshield extends all the way to the side, covering the power steering pump and certain hoses. I do use heat wrap though, at the downpipe and the exhaust portion that's passing underneath my oil pan, and certain areas of my intercooler piping. And F1 if not mistaken uses both heat shield on certain areas and heat wrap as well so that can't be bad.

Check out this post, showing both heat wrapping and heat shielding. I do admit the most effective would be to have both, but in my application I believe the heat shield to be a better choice as opposed to heat wrap

http://www.somersf1.co.uk/2014/08/bite-size-tech-ferrari-powered-teams.html?m=1
 
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Nightstalker1993

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My special order from the Land Of The Rising Sun had arrived!



Cusco Mission oil 75w85 GL-4 oil for my gearbox with Cusco LSD. Hopefully with this it will be silky smooth. Need to wait for my MIVEC gear ratios to arrive then I'll pour this in. This oil pretty much does not exist in Malaysia, even the official distributor here does not bring this oil in. GL-4 rating for FWD gearboxes with brass synchros.

RHDJapan is an awesome place to buy legit stuff from Japan by the way :beer:
 
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