4g93 Mivec Turbo Waja project(Many pictures be warned)
- Thread starter Nightstalker1993
- Start date
Actually it was all good until the engine swap. I think while it was left to rot for 1.5 years, shit entered the system maybe because before the engine swap the aircond was damn cold during the afternoon as well.
that sounds like a lotta money spent in the last month. And damn bro, your upgrades are always so damn interesting! Who did the GB update for you?
Also how the hell did a transistor snap like that?
Also how the hell did a transistor snap like that?
Yes it's damn alot of money. Bill was almost 2k including labour for gearbox remove install/barai gearbox and aircond overhaul, excluding the price of the gears in the first place and also the gear oil. Ok la not say very interesting also, this one minor update only. After this should be reducing alot on the updates edi just need to tune here and there, up boost, then hopefully prep it for sepang track day hehe. My usual workshop in SS19 did the work, but I was also there to join as need to identify some parts and also decide which parts to use. Some the gears are the same with the ones I bought, but the conditions of the synchro teeth are not the same, so have to decide which is the better one.
Now finally reasonably happy while driving the car edi, smooth turns and 1-2 don't suck as bad anymore, just need to fix the monoblock for my missing boom boom boom
Long time no update liao, here's some update, good info in case you guys encounter the same problem.
After the GB dissection, my water temp gauge became unreliable. When the compressor kicks in, the water temp will go up, and when the compressor turns off the temp will go down immediately, confirmed from the ECU reading that the engine is not overheating. Changed the temp sender for the gauge and problem still same. Mech suggested to check my grounding and I just gave the grounding cable and mounting points on the chassis some grinding, and also added another grounding cable as well while I was at it, and the temp sender started working like normal again
Before
After
Also another problem was recently I noticed idling was rougher than usual and town driving is just pretty horrible at really low RPM where the engine can get really jerky. Thought it was my tuning problem but no matter what I do I just couldn't tune it out. Wanted to play around with the cam timing to reduce the overlap, opened the timing belt cover and, lo and behold, the intake cam had move itself all the way to one extreme. Somehow the 5 allen bolts holding the cam gear down wasn't torqued properly and required very light force to get it to loosen.
Although the cam markings shows that it is full Retard, it is actually at full Advance. The markings on the cams are reversed. With the intake cam fully advanced, the valve overlap is alot more, and I was pretty lucky the valve did not kiss the piston!
The cam gear had moved 8 markings on the gear, 1 marking representing 2 crank degrees. The cam had advanced a whole 16 degrees!
Adjusted it back and give it slightly more retard this time, and idling was smoother with more vacuum and driving around town is soooo much smoother now with no jerky jerky.
After the GB dissection, my water temp gauge became unreliable. When the compressor kicks in, the water temp will go up, and when the compressor turns off the temp will go down immediately, confirmed from the ECU reading that the engine is not overheating. Changed the temp sender for the gauge and problem still same. Mech suggested to check my grounding and I just gave the grounding cable and mounting points on the chassis some grinding, and also added another grounding cable as well while I was at it, and the temp sender started working like normal again
Before
After
Also another problem was recently I noticed idling was rougher than usual and town driving is just pretty horrible at really low RPM where the engine can get really jerky. Thought it was my tuning problem but no matter what I do I just couldn't tune it out. Wanted to play around with the cam timing to reduce the overlap, opened the timing belt cover and, lo and behold, the intake cam had move itself all the way to one extreme. Somehow the 5 allen bolts holding the cam gear down wasn't torqued properly and required very light force to get it to loosen.
Although the cam markings shows that it is full Retard, it is actually at full Advance. The markings on the cams are reversed. With the intake cam fully advanced, the valve overlap is alot more, and I was pretty lucky the valve did not kiss the piston!
The cam gear had moved 8 markings on the gear, 1 marking representing 2 crank degrees. The cam had advanced a whole 16 degrees!
Adjusted it back and give it slightly more retard this time, and idling was smoother with more vacuum and driving around town is soooo much smoother now with no jerky jerky.
Last edited:
actually he should...
thats the best practice...once cam is adjusted, dynoed/tuned to suits and confirm at specific degree...
then use loctite to lock it...
Yeah, luckily using low comp pistons and 1.5mm thick gasket hahahahaha
God knows la how it came loose. When I loosened that 5 bolts to readjust it back, it was damn loose. Using those 'L' shape allen key, I can just loosen it with the end with the lesser leverage.
Belum masuk dyno ma, main main saja just to get it driving OTR town driving and idle nicely haha
Loctite actually got a few colours grades, eventhough the bottle is all red.
http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/the-difference-between-red-blue-green-and-purple-threadlockers/
Mr. DIY got sell the cheap china brand Threadlocker RED but I am not sure how strong is it compared to the actual Loctite RED, as the original Loctite RED is their strongest one and is meant to be loosened with heat.... Original Loctite branded threadlocker is hella expensive.
just check their site,got 2 type;
1.type only require manual tool.with a bit more force of coz.
2.type require heat to loosen the bolt.260 degree of heat.
Walao I susah2 find link give you all never read merr, got 4 types la walao. Buka link and read laaaa
So that's why they don't recommend Loctite Red for stuff you actually plan to open often haha
still can.. use the non permanent lock type...
locktite blue or purple is the perfect option
http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/the-difference-between-red-blue-green-and-purple-threadlockers/
it would come loose..especially if not overly tighten (damaging the thread and pulley) with super aggressive driving...
especially with current "affordable" stuff....
Sup guys, been some time since I've updated this.
Not much had been done/happening on my car as I have a motorbike and also a Volvo S80 now so I rotate between the 3 vehicles. Last Saturday I managed to hit the dyno though, and here are the results, before my accessory belt decided to say goodbye. 235hp and 276nm of torque on a Dynokraft dyno, whose numbers are pretty understated, similar to Mainline's numbers. If you see the chart the highest run I did was around 245hp, but that run was knocking and I had to dial back on the ign timing to avoid knock.
Also for my own future reference, the code for the alternator and power steering/aircond belts are 5PK1300 and 4PK780
Not much had been done/happening on my car as I have a motorbike and also a Volvo S80 now so I rotate between the 3 vehicles. Last Saturday I managed to hit the dyno though, and here are the results, before my accessory belt decided to say goodbye. 235hp and 276nm of torque on a Dynokraft dyno, whose numbers are pretty understated, similar to Mainline's numbers. If you see the chart the highest run I did was around 245hp, but that run was knocking and I had to dial back on the ign timing to avoid knock.
Also for my own future reference, the code for the alternator and power steering/aircond belts are 5PK1300 and 4PK780
marsha1l_v6
500 RPM
marsha1l_v6
500 RPM
Minus 1 bar from your interpretation hahaha. 1 bar boost only, the number is absolute, 0 is complete vacuum, 100 is atmospheric, so 200 is 1 bar boost. If 2 bar boost only get 235hp cry die me
marsha1l_v6
500 RPM
marsha1l_v6
500 RPM
about the same figure with me at 1 bar...nice nice...looks like s80 getting most of the tlc now..hahaha
Yours 2L, and yours should be more torque kot. Mine 235hp at like 7k rpm, yours should be peaking at a lower rpm I think? Want to push to 1.2bar wan but the belt snapped so tak jadi tune for that. Also using RON95 so was encountering some knock quite early, else can push for more power wan. You tune on what grade fuel?
marsha1l_v6
500 RPM
marsha1l_v6
500 RPM
i dont know where i put my dyno sheet, cant recall the torque . peak hp around 5k ish rpm and peak torque around high 4k rpm, thats why i limit my rpm at 6.5k rpm.
running and tuning 97.
| Thread starter | Similar threads | Forum | Replies | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Any auto 4g93 mods kaki? | Car Talk | 25 | |
|
|
Emanage Blue Problem (4G93 SOHC) | Car Talk | 24 | |
| K | 4G93 DOHC Clutch Paddle Squeaking Noise | Car Talk | 11 | |
| J | Mivec 4G93 - feeling of impact (hesitate/sag) when decelerating. PLS HELP!! | Car Talk | 38 | |
|
How does a 4g93 become a MIVEC | Car Talk | 27 |
