4g93 Mivec Turbo Waja project(Many pictures be warned)

stupidcar

5,000 RPM

stupidcar

5,000 RPM
Mar 18, 2013
5,567
850
713
Kuala Lumpur
Also took the opportunity to overhaul almost completely my aircond system, changed the cooling coil, condenser, expansion valve and receiver dryer. Now the aircond is super cold even in extremely hot afternoons. About time I gave the aircond system an overhaul considering it was 17 years old already....
Boleh thana 17 years, not bad wei.
 

Izso

NA NA NA NA NA
Helmet Clan
Moderator

Izso

NA NA NA NA NA
Helmet Clan
Moderator
Mar 28, 2004
15,387
6,411
5,213
KL
that sounds like a lotta money spent in the last month. And damn bro, your upgrades are always so damn interesting! Who did the GB update for you?

Also how the hell did a transistor snap like that?
 

Nightstalker1993

Known Member
Senior Member

Nightstalker1993

Known Member
Senior Member
Thread starter
Aug 30, 2010
267
130
1,543
Subang Jaya
that sounds like a lotta money spent in the last month. And damn bro, your upgrades are always so damn interesting! Who did the GB update for you?

Also how the hell did a transistor snap like that?
Yes it's damn alot of money. Bill was almost 2k including labour for gearbox remove install/barai gearbox and aircond overhaul, excluding the price of the gears in the first place and also the gear oil. Ok la not say very interesting also, this one minor update only. After this should be reducing alot on the updates edi just need to tune here and there, up boost, then hopefully prep it for sepang track day hehe. My usual workshop in SS19 did the work, but I was also there to join as need to identify some parts and also decide which parts to use. Some the gears are the same with the ones I bought, but the conditions of the synchro teeth are not the same, so have to decide which is the better one.

Now finally reasonably happy while driving the car edi, smooth turns and 1-2 don't suck as bad anymore, just need to fix the monoblock for my missing boom boom boom
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kevinho

Nightstalker1993

Known Member
Senior Member

Nightstalker1993

Known Member
Senior Member
Thread starter
Aug 30, 2010
267
130
1,543
Subang Jaya
Long time no update liao, here's some update, good info in case you guys encounter the same problem.

After the GB dissection, my water temp gauge became unreliable. When the compressor kicks in, the water temp will go up, and when the compressor turns off the temp will go down immediately, confirmed from the ECU reading that the engine is not overheating. Changed the temp sender for the gauge and problem still same. Mech suggested to check my grounding and I just gave the grounding cable and mounting points on the chassis some grinding, and also added another grounding cable as well while I was at it, and the temp sender started working like normal again :banana:

Before


After


Also another problem was recently I noticed idling was rougher than usual and town driving is just pretty horrible at really low RPM where the engine can get really jerky. Thought it was my tuning problem but no matter what I do I just couldn't tune it out. Wanted to play around with the cam timing to reduce the overlap, opened the timing belt cover and, lo and behold, the intake cam had move itself all the way to one extreme. Somehow the 5 allen bolts holding the cam gear down wasn't torqued properly and required very light force to get it to loosen.



Although the cam markings shows that it is full Retard, it is actually at full Advance. The markings on the cams are reversed. With the intake cam fully advanced, the valve overlap is alot more, and I was pretty lucky the valve did not kiss the piston!

The cam gear had moved 8 markings on the gear, 1 marking representing 2 crank degrees. The cam had advanced a whole 16 degrees!

Adjusted it back and give it slightly more retard this time, and idling was smoother with more vacuum and driving around town is soooo much smoother now with no jerky jerky.
 
Last edited:

^pomen_GTR^

7,000 RPM
Senior Member

^pomen_GTR^

7,000 RPM
Senior Member
May 13, 2010
7,509
1,690
1,713
The Mines
I dont think he'll want to do that to his adjustable sprockets

actually he should...

thats the best practice...once cam is adjusted, dynoed/tuned to suits and confirm at specific degree...

then use loctite to lock it...
 

Nightstalker1993

Known Member
Senior Member

Nightstalker1993

Known Member
Senior Member
Thread starter
Aug 30, 2010
267
130
1,543
Subang Jaya
holy shit.. super close call there! Did you loctite the damn nuts?
Yeah, luckily using low comp pistons and 1.5mm thick gasket hahahahaha

Yup, he did mentioned not torqued properly.....
God knows la how it came loose. When I loosened that 5 bolts to readjust it back, it was damn loose. Using those 'L' shape allen key, I can just loosen it with the end with the lesser leverage.

actually he should...

thats the best practice...once cam is adjusted, dynoed/tuned to suits and confirm at specific degree...

then use loctite to lock it...
Belum masuk dyno ma, main main saja just to get it driving OTR town driving and idle nicely haha

These things don't typically come loose on their own, do they?
Loctite actually got a few colours grades, eventhough the bottle is all red.

http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/the-difference-between-red-blue-green-and-purple-threadlockers/

Mr. DIY got sell the cheap china brand Threadlocker RED but I am not sure how strong is it compared to the actual Loctite RED, as the original Loctite RED is their strongest one and is meant to be loosened with heat.... Original Loctite branded threadlocker is hella expensive.
 

Nightstalker1993

Known Member
Senior Member

Nightstalker1993

Known Member
Senior Member
Thread starter
Aug 30, 2010
267
130
1,543
Subang Jaya
Wonder if after loctite, later want to remove the bolt, can it come off?
just check their site,got 2 type;
1.type only require manual tool.with a bit more force of coz.
2.type require heat to loosen the bolt.260 degree of heat.
Walao I susah2 find link give you all never read merr, got 4 types la walao. Buka link and read laaaa :laugh::laugh:

Habis lah, the sprocket, camshaft and the attached seals
So that's why they don't recommend Loctite Red for stuff you actually plan to open often haha
 

^pomen_GTR^

7,000 RPM
Senior Member

^pomen_GTR^

7,000 RPM
Senior Member
May 13, 2010
7,509
1,690
1,713
The Mines

^pomen_GTR^

7,000 RPM
Senior Member

^pomen_GTR^

7,000 RPM
Senior Member
May 13, 2010
7,509
1,690
1,713
The Mines
These things don't typically come loose on their own, do they?

it would come loose..especially if not overly tighten (damaging the thread and pulley) with super aggressive driving...


especially with current "affordable" stuff....
 

Nightstalker1993

Known Member
Senior Member

Nightstalker1993

Known Member
Senior Member
Thread starter
Aug 30, 2010
267
130
1,543
Subang Jaya
Sup guys, been some time since I've updated this.

Not much had been done/happening on my car as I have a motorbike and also a Volvo S80 now so I rotate between the 3 vehicles. Last Saturday I managed to hit the dyno though, and here are the results, before my accessory belt decided to say goodbye. 235hp and 276nm of torque on a Dynokraft dyno, whose numbers are pretty understated, similar to Mainline's numbers. If you see the chart the highest run I did was around 245hp, but that run was knocking and I had to dial back on the ign timing to avoid knock.






Also for my own future reference, the code for the alternator and power steering/aircond belts are 5PK1300 and 4PK780

 

Nightstalker1993

Known Member
Senior Member

Nightstalker1993

Known Member
Senior Member
Thread starter
Aug 30, 2010
267
130
1,543
Subang Jaya
about the same figure with me at 1 bar...nice nice...looks like s80 getting most of the tlc now..hahaha
Yours 2L, and yours should be more torque kot. Mine 235hp at like 7k rpm, yours should be peaking at a lower rpm I think? Want to push to 1.2bar wan but the belt snapped so tak jadi tune for that. Also using RON95 so was encountering some knock quite early, else can push for more power wan. You tune on what grade fuel?
 

marsha1l_v6

500 RPM

marsha1l_v6

500 RPM
Aug 1, 2013
666
130
543
Kuala Lumpur
Yours 2L, and yours should be more torque kot. Mine 235hp at like 7k rpm, yours should be peaking at a lower rpm I think? Want to push to 1.2bar wan but the belt snapped so tak jadi tune for that. Also using RON95 so was encountering some knock quite early, else can push for more power wan. You tune on what grade fuel?
i dont know where i put my dyno sheet, cant recall the torque . peak hp around 5k ish rpm and peak torque around high 4k rpm, thats why i limit my rpm at 6.5k rpm.

running and tuning 97.