dont loctite...
dab a smack of grey rtv to seal and prevent the idle screw from moving
dab a smack of grey rtv to seal and prevent the idle screw from moving
I told you I wanted to buy!! Just that budget doesn't permit at the moment. So living with it for now.
Guys question :
I have found that my IACV is deleted (aftermarket TB and intake manifold), using a Nissan Q35 TB (cable) and a FICD which are obviously all non standard. The TB itself seems to have a funky adjuster screw which moves after a move (possibly when it's hot cuz cold it seems to be tight). Right now my idle when cold is good. When hot it hunts 100-200rpm between 800 to 1000 rpm which annoys the hell outta me.
I plan to Loctite the screw to stop it from moving and maybe swap out the FICD just in case it's faulty. Is there anything else I should look at to resolve this? Tuner earlier said the ECU cannot seem to keep up with it to compensate and suspects the TB is not good.
Sell the boost controller which you don't seem to need anymore and buy that SPAL before your engine overheats and seizes and 5 figure goes down the drain man. Don't be penny wise pound foolish.
the original IACV is stepper motor type or a PWM controlled valve? If your idle is hunting even when there is no idle valve, then maybe your ecu settings on idle is funky. Tuning idle isn't as straight forward as it is man, took me bloody long to make my car idle like standard.
IMHO the most important thing is to get the fan supplying 'fresh' air instead of recycled air from the engine bay.Yeah, gonna do that. Sell and buy. But right now the engine only reached max 96 on stop-go traffic and I switch off the aircon to further reduce it. Btw, I wanna ask - is it more efficient to have one pull fan only rather than one pull and one push? And then remove the oil cooler out of the path and to use those foam to "guide" the air?
IACV is stepper motor type. But it's no longer there so no use. Also I suspect the cams is bothering the tune as well. Biggest issue is this idle issue only comes out when engine is above 80 deg C. Cold there's no hunting. What parameters did you adjust to manage the idle?
Have you tried idling speed with air con off and on. FICD is to compensate when air con on...
IMHO the most important thing is to get the fan supplying 'fresh' air instead of recycled air from the engine bay.
Take my sister humble Kenari for example.I install additional fan infront to push air assuming it will help improve aircond performance during stop and go driving.The result is almost nothing improved. What i did is custom made covers to block any path or opening which allow hot air from the engine bay to be recycled thru the radiator again.Its damn tedious but result is there.
I think he means the engine bay hot air not escaping out, so sort of recycle thru' radiator again, but I doubt since radiator is up front. Probably no circulation, but yours have raised bonnet already right?So now your sis' kenari has two fans with proper flow? how do you mean recycled? Got sample?
Previously yes,now already removed the additional pusher fan after installing blocking plate.i dont have the pics.It works well without aircon. But hot-start (water temp > 85 deg C) it just dies off shortly after firing up. Takes a few restarts for it to settle down.
So now your sis' kenari has two fans with proper flow? how do you mean recycled? Got sample?
I think he means the engine bay hot air not escaping out, so sort of recycle thru' radiator again, but I doubt since radiator is up front. Probably no circulation, but yours have raised bonnet already right?
Previously yes,now already removed the additional pusher fan after installing blocking plate.i dont have the pics.
When car is moving our radiator will get fresh air as air from outside the front bumper is push in by the foward motion of the car itself.The effect is better cooling.U can see this from lesser aircond compressor running time and radiator fan running time.Not sure u will notices this in a car with good sound dampening like yours.
For example on my BLM Campro ( u can google any Campro engine bay picture ), notice there is a gap between the top radiator cover and the metal piece frame where the bonnet latch locked when u close the bonet.There is at least 1 inch gap there all along the rediator length. During stationary, hot air from the engine bay or after being sucked by the radiator fan will find its way back to the front of the radiator hence reduced cooling. The top part is the easy one to solve or fabricate the blocking plate.The left and right are difficult.
The best OE design i saw is on my dad Pajero LO.The radiator is placed in square metal frame and this coupled with the hood rubber seal and no other opening ensure the radiator always gets fresh air and not hot air from the engine bay.
Izso. So what gunnerzz said is in line with what I told you. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with your radiator or fan. Just a single properly working original pull fan, with the radiator shrouded and blocked off from recycled hot air.
It’s funny cause if it’s original shroud and sponges all in place it should work fine.
whoops.. editedOMG! still have so much problems......
nighthunter? seldom in the forum? or do you means bro. nightstalker?
Chill out bro,
Most of us encounter these downtime.
Myself included with my Waja 1.8 tempermental electrical. Took months to settle but once solved it provide me with invaluable knowledge and a hole in my pocket...heheh.
The knowledge part is the best.
Still, the choice is yours.
...
Yes.. still so many problems.
Mine is not hole bro.. mine pants also melted and eating into my leg skin
Wondering what is your wife's comments/reaction to all these issues with your new car?
Most common complaints ...Anymore xD?
Latest update : Over the weekend I tried to sponge up the front and do what you guys suggested.
She's immune already. She said "Again ah? Told you to buy new car lor"Wondering what is your wife's comments/reaction to all these issues with your new car?
Who else suggested that sponge? Hehehe. I'm surprised other people know about it. I thought i'm the only evil genius around. But yes, AS I SUSPECTED THAT'S THE CAUSE OF YOUR OVERHEATING PROBLEMS.
Limpeh genius *pats self on back
You are in too deep to back out laaaaa.
Gunnerz did a major project to plug all the holes in his car
It works well without aircon. But hot-start (water temp > 85 deg C) it just dies off shortly after firing up. Takes a few restarts for it to settle down.
So now your sis' kenari has two fans with proper flow? how do you mean recycled? Got sample?
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