4g15 mod

[issuzark]

"Drop in" as it is named, just drop it in, nothing else.....

So it's better if I stick to drop in? Or would an open pod with heat shield and ram pipe do better?

 

[vr2turbo]

So it's better if I stick to drop in? Or would an open pod with heat shield and ram pipe do better?

Standard engine without mod, drop in will do.....

 

[issuzark]

Standard engine without mod, drop in will do.....

Planning to mod though.

 

[twistedichc]

Planning to mod though.

if plan bigger mod better do later the smaller performance upgrade. if not later u might have to redo the smaller parts to suit the bigger mod.

 

[issuzark]

if plan bigger mod better do later the smaller performance upgrade. if not later u might have to redo the smaller parts to suit the bigger mod.

So the air intakes should be done later? That's interesting. I've been hearing to start with air intake first.

 

[twistedichc]

So the air intakes should be done later? That's interesting. I've been hearing to start with air intake first.

that's just my opinion coz for me I'd do it like that. for instance when u add something that will take some space in the engine bay, u might need to reroute your air intake parts, u'll be wasting summore money on it.

 

[issuzark]

that's just my opinion coz for me I'd do it like that. for instance when u add something that will take some space in the engine bay, u might need to reroute your air intake parts, u'll be wasting summore money on it.

Touche though. Hmm... Now I'm not sure if I should touch it before big stuff.

 

[twistedichc]

Touche though. Hmm... Now I'm not sure if I should touch it before big stuff.

lets wait for them sifuses to give their opinion.

 

[vr2turbo]

Touche though. Hmm... Now I'm not sure if I should touch it before big stuff.

In a way brother twistedichc also correct. Best is to make sure your mod will correspond to your future mod, if not it will be wasted. But then modding we never satisfied then keep modding and changing.....hahhahahah

 

[issuzark]

In a way brother twistedichc also correct. Best is to make sure your mod will correspond to your future mod, if not it will be wasted. But then modding we never satisfied then keep modding and changing.....hahhahahah

So how to ensure it corresponds leh?

 

[stupidcar]

So it's better if I stick to drop in? Or would an open pod with heat shield and ram pipe do better?

I actually like drop in because it has a box. My imagination is that the air is cooler than open pod.
And less prone to dirt, water and everything.

 

[vr2turbo]

So how to ensure it corresponds leh?

That is up to you loh! What your mods are only you know.....hahhahahhaah

---------- Post added at 08:31 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:30 AM ----------

I actually like drop in because it has a box. My imagination is that the air is cooler than open pod.
And less prone to dirt, water and everything.

Well, individual preference. Open pod can show off.......

 

[issuzark]

That is up to you loh! What your mods are only you know.....hahhahahhaah

---------- Post added at 08:31 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:30 AM ----------



Well, individual preference. Open pod can show off.......

I'm thinking along the lines like Izco's. All the way short of turbo, perhaps. Also, yes, part of the reason why I wanted an open pod is to show off. And I thought I wanted to be covert about my mods. :rolleyes:

 

[twistedichc]

I'm thinking along the lines like Izco's. All the way short of turbo, perhaps. Also, yes, part of the reason why I wanted an open pod is to show off. And I thought I wanted to be covert about my mods. :rolleyes:

in that case, let the air intake be the last to do la, by then u know edi wether want to show off @ be the sleeper, but than again there is other part that might need to mod & people can see even if u want to be low profile. like everytime when a turtle likes to cucuk2 my stock fish, I had thought of installing NOS on it but keeping stock look, by the time it happens push the button & leave them wit jaws down to the floor but than again it's just my wish though.

 

[issuzark]

in that case, let the air intake be the last to do la, by then u know edi wether want to show off @ be the sleeper, but than again there is other part that might need to mod & people can see even if u want to be low profile. like everytime when a turtle likes to cucuk2 my stock fish, I had thought of installing NOS on it but keeping stock look, by the time it happens push the button & leave them wit jaws down to the floor but than again it's just my wish though.

NOS eh. Haven't heard that in a while. Talking about mods though. How much is a decent 4-2-1? IIRC 4-2-1 gives more midrange pull while 4-1 give more top end power. And considering I can barely go to 6k, I'm thinking of a 4-2-1, though I honestly want more top speed. Hmm.

 

[Izso]

So the air intakes should be done later? That's interesting. I've been hearing to start with air intake first.

Pity Drexchan's Wira got stolen. He had a pretty interesting intake setup with his open pod being in his bumper and super long runners. Awesome pickup throughout the rev ranges.

So how to ensure it corresponds leh?

Start by deciding on a budget. Then can correspond easily.

I'm thinking along the lines like Izco's. All the way short of turbo, perhaps. Also, yes, part of the reason why I wanted an open pod is to show off. And I thought I wanted to be covert about my mods. :rolleyes:

Assuming you have an unlimited budget and want to retain the 3-speed auto like what I did, this is what you can do :

1. PNP the head. Get a spare head to do this and fully skim max until 1.5mm left (to allow for one more skim). Get the intake ports grooved and get the Singh groove done too. Google these two up.

2. Forged 77mm CP Pistons and conrods. If you can't afford this then CPS 77mm pistons taken from the Saga 1.6. Cheap pistons. Pair it with the 4G18 Waja crankshaft. Fitting these pistons will require you to overbore the block cylinders to fit so take this opportunity to fit in strong sleeves.

3. Get oversized valves, grind fit them then get the Power Lynz done. (Look it up in Google)

4. Oversize the injectors to 180cc and install a good fuel pressure regulator.

5. Change to the Proton CFE radiator. It's thicker and bigger than stock and it's pnp for Wira autos. Consider changing to a high speed fan too.

6. Change to a low temp thermostat and install a water temp and oil temp meter.

7. Balance all engine components like the crankshaft + lightened crank pulley + torque convertor (as one piece) and lighten everything.

8. Install a mild billet cam shaft + adjustable cam pulley. Don't go for regrind and forget about overly aggressive high cam shafts.

9. I have PTFE sheets which you can cut and use as a gasket for your intake manifold to the cylinder head - keeps the manifold cool therefore the air inside cool too.

10. Swap out your entire exhaust. 4-2-1 headers, flexible joint, resonator or high flow catcon then a proper s-flow rear muffler all piping 2". Wrap your header with titanium exhaust wrap (easier to work with than fiberglass) or consider ceramic coating it. Mild white steel piping is enough.

11. Swap out front and rear brakes to GSR brakes and add a brake stopper kit for stock servo. I didn't want "stop/go" brakes so I used stock servo which was more than enough for me. GSR calipers will comfortably fit in 15" rims and are bigger than stock brakes. Get good brake pads like Ferodo / EBC / Trestor Blue advantage / etc. Get good steel braided brake hoses.

12. Add 22mm front ARB and 19mm rear ARB. Add room bar, front tower strut (4pt), rear tower strut (2pt), side bars and fender bars.

13. Consider fully adjustable suspension like the BC Racing h/l/s/h with 6k front and 4k rear springs. Or Koni yellow + Eibach prokit.

14. Install a ATF cooler and use good SPIII oil like those from Redline or Motul. Otherwise stick with Mitsubishi Diaqueen SPIII.

15. Upgrade your ignition coil to MSD (if no budget keep it stock) and change the plug cables to something more higher output like MSD cables or the BSI ones I was on and pair it with long lasting spark plugs like the Iridiums.

16. Lastly, lightweight 15" rims plus good tyres is very useful. You'd be surprised how much better FC you'll get just with rims alone. Less effort to move, less effort to stop and no need to brake in corners

Oh ya last upgrade that does nothing to improve your car whatsoever - tint. Sure makes driving the car a lot nicer. Once you've done all that then you'd have everything I ever had in my car. Except for the manual GB. That was the last thing did.

 

[issuzark]

Pity Drexchan's Wira got stolen. He had a pretty interesting intake setup with his open pod being in his bumper and super long runners. Awesome pickup throughout the rev ranges.



Start by deciding on a budget. Then can correspond easily.



Assuming you have an unlimited budget and want to retain the 3-speed auto like what I did, this is what you can do :

1. PNP the head. Get a spare head to do this and fully skim max until 1.5mm left (to allow for one more skim). Get the intake ports grooved and get the Singh groove done too. Google these two up.

2. Forged 77mm CP Pistons and conrods. If you can't afford this then CPS 77mm pistons taken from the Saga 1.6. Cheap pistons. Pair it with the 4G18 Waja crankshaft. Fitting these pistons will require you to overbore the block cylinders to fit so take this opportunity to fit in strong sleeves.

3. Get oversized valves, grind fit them then get the Power Lynz done. (Look it up in Google)

4. Oversize the injectors to 180cc and install a good fuel pressure regulator.

5. Change to the Proton CFE radiator. It's thicker and bigger than stock and it's pnp for Wira autos. Consider changing to a high speed fan too.

6. Change to a low temp thermostat and install a water temp and oil temp meter.

7. Balance all engine components like the crankshaft + lightened crank pulley + torque convertor (as one piece) and lighten everything.

8. Install a mild billet cam shaft + adjustable cam pulley. Don't go for regrind and forget about overly aggressive high cam shafts.

9. I have PTFE sheets which you can cut and use as a gasket for your intake manifold to the cylinder head - keeps the manifold cool therefore the air inside cool too.

10. Swap out your entire exhaust. 4-2-1 headers, flexible joint, resonator or high flow catcon then a proper s-flow rear muffler all piping 2". Wrap your header with titanium exhaust wrap (easier to work with than fiberglass) or consider ceramic coating it. Mild white steel piping is enough.

11. Swap out front and rear brakes to GSR brakes and add a brake stopper kit for stock servo. I didn't want "stop/go" brakes so I used stock servo which was more than enough for me. GSR calipers will comfortably fit in 15" rims and are bigger than stock brakes. Get good brake pads like Ferodo / EBC / Trestor Blue advantage / etc. Get good steel braided brake hoses.

12. Add 22mm front ARB and 19mm rear ARB. Add room bar, front tower strut (4pt), rear tower strut (2pt), side bars and fender bars.

13. Consider fully adjustable suspension like the BC Racing h/l/s/h with 6k front and 4k rear springs. Or Koni yellow + Eibach prokit.

14. Install a ATF cooler and use good SPIII oil like those from Redline or Motul. Otherwise stick with Mitsubishi Diaqueen SPIII.

15. Upgrade your ignition coil to MSD (if no budget keep it stock) and change the plug cables to something more higher output like MSD cables or the BSI ones I was on and pair it with long lasting spark plugs like the Iridiums.

16. Lastly, lightweight 15" rims plus good tyres is very useful. You'd be surprised how much better FC you'll get just with rims alone. Less effort to move, less effort to stop and no need to brake in corners

Oh ya last upgrade that does nothing to improve your car whatsoever - tint. Sure makes driving the car a lot nicer. Once you've done all that then you'd have everything I ever had in my car. Except for the manual GB. That was the last thing did.

Gosh such a long list. Honestly I had the same idea with Drexchan for intakes. The shop guy told me that the custom piping would cost a lot, and getting a rampipe would be cheaper with similar yield.

I've considered lightweight rims too. My car comes with an aftermarket one, which I had no idea what it is. I'll get a pic up later though. But yes. Depending on which corner, I don't brake. I also have the tendency to power through corners. Good lightweight rims cost a few k per set if I'm not mistaken?

 

[vr2turbo]

Assuming you have an unlimited budget and want to retain the 3-speed auto like what I did, this is what you can do :

In the end you went manual also mah!......

---------- Post added at 01:45 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 01:43 PM ----------

Gosh such a long list. Honestly I had the same idea with Drexchan for intakes. The shop guy told me that the custom piping would cost a lot, and getting a rampipe would be cheaper with similar yield.

I've considered lightweight rims too. My car comes with an aftermarket one, which I had no idea what it is. I'll get a pic up later though. But yes. Depending on which corner, I don't brake. I also have the tendency to power through corners. Good lightweight rims cost a few k per set if I'm not mistaken?

Drex sifu intake in bumper because CAI. If yours is short ram, and still in engine compartment then need heat shield, if not suck hot air only....

 

[gunnerzz]

Too much poison in this thread...ibetter not sign in for a few weeks or i will the mod on my car...

 

[issuzark]

In the end you went manual also mah!......

---------- Post added at 01:45 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 01:43 PM ----------



Drex sifu intake in bumper because CAI. If yours is short ram, and still in engine compartment then need heat shield, if not suck hot air only....

Yeah, I thought of CAI too. I'll definitely get a heat shield for open pod though. No idea how much CAI costs honestly.