Proton 4G13/4G15....Satria/Wira/Saga

[darrengoh89]

if you are going for works AFPR ...juz pm guan for the detail .... =)

 

[drexchan]

eh? bump the wrong topic...

 

[korn twisted transistor]

u can upgrade you 4g15p like me

 

[oly]

just siap my bro car...4g15 injection mmc...with 4-2-1 wira se...2 inch piping with one center bullet and japan muffler...intake stock...quite nice...fc a lil bit kuat...rm10=50-60km oni for normal driving...when rempit mode rm10=40km oni...aiyoh...

 

[meltan7]

i think your piping size is a lil too big.

 

[oly]

i think not...today test again...long distance rm10=60-70km...short distance rm10=50...i think ok what...

whats ur fc like?..

 

[4G13Psohc200bhp]

okie... on the bolt-on turbo... can the 4g13/4g15 (coated) withstand the boost??? and how high can u go.. is 2 BAR possible???

 

[PocketRocket]

guys, i have a problem with my car, its a proton 1.5i SVDO. recently put my car into insurance workshop for about 2 weeks to repair my rear bumper. I collected my car last Tuesday and i couldn't start my car. so with the help of the workshops back up battery, i managed to crank it n start-up.

1st thing i noticed is, during cold start my engine usually kicks up to 1.1-2k rpm to warm up engine. but no, it didn't happen, instead it idled at 7-800rpm...very poor back pressure at the exhaust.

2nd thing i noticed is, ever since i started my engine, the 'check engine light' did not go off..I have tried disconnecting the battery to reset the ecu few times but end up same result.

3rd thing i noticed is, after some time leaving the car idling poorly i tried revving higher for a short while. guess what? the engine started to mis-fire! that was a first for me when i heard a few bubbling followed by a POP...

4th thing i noticed is, from the workshop usj7 traveling back to my home in subang, as i shift to neutral and brake to stop at traffic lights, mati engine around 4 times...very frustrating as the car also felt extremely sluggish while on the road

I told the mech, "hey, i sent in my car for you to fix the rear bumper...now when i collect my car i'm having trouble from the front." He insist that the car is under-used(which is true) and the ecu adopted a faulty setting for a few times the jump the car. what he promised me is to go back on this coming Monday to get the ecu on a device called "MUD" to troubleshoot and restore to factory settings.

In ur opinion guys, what do you think is really wrong? ecu settings? spark plugs?(yet to check if they had swapped my iridiums)

 

[anion]

sounds like bad ignition to me

 

[oly]

its MUT btw...to reset ur ecu back...

 

[Speeder]

"check engine light", normally happen due to the sensor broken or cannot detect something of your car. please send your car to those foreman who got the computer to plug in your car socket and check.

There is mis-fire and pop sound from your car, that mean air many but no enough fuel (lean).

1st, you may check your spark plug 1st.

2nd, check crank pulley sensor area

3rd, check O2 sensor (might be broken)

I think your foreman should know how to check for your car problem..........

 

[fstr]

scrap the car laa ah poc

 

[yeehau86]

PocketRocket

Sorry to hijack this thread but just to share with you that I have experience this before too with my car not long ago, where the rpm during cold start seems to be very low. Sometimes enter gear the engine seems like want to die like that, the whole car feel shaking as the rpm is very very low, almost touching zero. The Check Engine Light (CEL) is ON too after I start the car.

So I went to do a diagnostic check and the trouble code result was Idle Control System Malfunction. At first taught is the throttle body got dirty, so tried to wash the throttle body, but it didn't work. Problem still exist (CEL still ON). After some survey, many say that it is the Throttle Positioning System (TPS) sensor has dead.

Went to SC and check for the spare part cost. They quote me about 2.7k to change to a new throttle body, my eyes grew big and my mouth dropped on the floor. So I just tell them "let me think about it" and walked off.

At the end, went to half cut shop and get a throttle body for RM 350. Problem solved, now is back to normal, the CEL is not there anymore. So much for the 2.7k throttle body from SC :stupid:

 

[PocketRocket]

thx Speeder for the tips...yesterday took a day off to settle my car, went on the MUT (thx for the correction oly) reset the ecu and no problem already. there was a error code of dunno what, din really ask but after it got a fresh setting, running smooth again with no further glitches.

btw, my throttle body also K.O edi so my idling is abit low, my mech put in the toyota FICD and open the valve max, my idling now 1k rpm...lol! better than low idling lah...summore SVDO stuff damn expensive...:stupid:

 

[khguan]

SVDO TB can get RM2xx from mudah mah...

darengoh is selling around that price too.. with port n polished wan somemore...

 

[meltan7]

i'm having fairly similar problems as pocroc.

here's the scenario

1) air cond is switched on
2) car is stationary

whenever the air cond compressor "rests", the idling will be around 7-8k rpm. when the aircond compressor kicks in again, the idling will go up and down a few times.

usually it'll go back to normal idling, but sometimes the engine just dies.

can anyone tell me what's the problem here? appreciate the help. thanks!

 

[damone]

I have exactly the same problem. After hard driving only the idling seem to stabilize, even when the compressor kicks in.

 

[PocketRocket]

my mech sez the throttle body easy to KO thats y affects the idling...buy from proton 1.3/1.5 is bout rm450...too much money involved...rather spend 100 for a bigger FICD than the normal rm30 one

 

[meltan7]

i already have a FICD but it doesn't help. it used to, but not anymore. never changed the throttle body before.

 

[PocketRocket]

there's 2 types u know...the 3-valve & the 5 Valve...try to change to the bigger one n see...i also nvr change TB before...