Izzit true bot will affect reliability? How severe will be affected actually?

[Alvin Lee Edwards]

I've browsed alot in zth. but alot mix answers. So my main question is :

If BOT low boost plus upgrading essential internal and parts if done professionally, just to increase the response of the car and not for race,
-CAN DRIVE LONG DISTANCE?
-HOW SEVERE WILL IT AFFECT THE CAR RELIABILITY AND LIFESPAN?
-WILL IT MORE WORTHY COMPARE TO ONLY UPGRADING STOCK ENGINE WITH BETTER PERFORMANCE
PART AND RETUNE?

 

[Izso]

If you just install a turbo kit on your stock engine with stock everything and boost high (anything more than 0.3~0.4 bar is high) then the answer is probably yes.

If you install a turbo kit and strengthen your internals with forged parts, metal gaskets, proper fueling, proper everything and boost reasonable amounts then the answer is no.

Doing a half assed job of a BOT will land you in trouble in most cases. So BOT wisely.

 

[ixeo]

I've browsed alot in zth. but alot mix answers. So my main question is :

If BOT low boost plus upgrading essential internal and parts if done professionally, just to increase the response of the car and not for race,
-CAN DRIVE LONG DISTANCE?
-HOW SEVERE WILL IT AFFECT THE CAR RELIABILITY AND LIFESPAN?
-WILL IT MORE WORTHY COMPARE TO ONLY UPGRADING STOCK ENGINE WITH BETTER PERFORMANCE
PART AND RETUNE?

depends what is the definition of "essential internal and parts" and what is "professional"

usually if the stroke of the engine is not too long, getting some custom forged pistons or from a turbo sibling to lower compression will do the trick, the conrods should survive looking at ~0.7 bar.

done correctly the lifespan of the car will be no different from an NA, just make sure to always check engine oil and water temperature. Turbo is not harder to maintain, it is just less forgiving to negligence and lack of maintenance.

NA tuning costs more $ per hp compared to Turbo. if you have the money to spend, a 200bhp NA is better than a 200bhp turbo in certain conditions, but for street driving, a small responsive turbo that begins boosting at 2000rpm is great, examples are like the VW stables Polo, normal Golf turbos etc.

remember that 200bhp NA and 200bhp turbo can be very different in terms of power curve, NA engines usually do peak power at very high RPMs, whereas turbos, when size accordingly can produce peak torque at low RPM..and for street driving its all about the torque.

 

[Izso]

sifu has spoken!

 

[BLaCkHoWLiNG]

don't forget.... with strengthened parts.. u need to have the brains to control it... lack of fueling n poor tuning = kaboom

 

[Alvin Lee Edwards]

So small turbo good for street driving, and easier to tune? If highway drive will have any side effects? I see alot Golfs' and Polos' damn ganas on the highway oso. Can a bot drive like that too?

 

[ixeo]

With the right mechanic and sufficient amount of money anything is possible. With the wrong mechanic all the money in the world won't do you any good. Done correctly nothing is easy to tune, for example it takes the same amount of time to tune a closed loop boost map using haltech ps1000 on an orange supra and a persona with a bolt on turbo.

 

[Alvin Lee Edwards]

With the right mechanic and sufficient amount of money anything is possible. With the wrong mechanic all the money in the world won't do you any good. Done correctly nothing is easy to tune, for example it takes the same amount of time to tune a closed loop boost map using haltech ps1000 on an orange supra and a persona with a bolt on turbo.

How much is Sufficient? Estimated?

 

[peeche]

setup, tuner ability and your right foot is the answer.
even stock evo's engine can blow if slammed all the way.

 

[Alvin Lee Edwards]

setup, tuner ability and your right foot is the answer.
even stock evo's engine can blow if slammed all the way.

So scary?

 

[Izso]

Aggressive tuning with no limitations set, then yes, kaboom possible.

I would set aside RM10k for a proper job with almost no recon / halfcut parts. I don't trust those type of parts unless it's a aircon compressor or something unimportant. halfcut pistons, turbos or cranks - that's scary unless you know how to look out for the lemons.

Joshua a forummer here told me to BOT, do it slowly. Buy bit by bit new, and eventually you'll have everything you need to do it one go. That way it won't hurt your pocket so bad. But you really gotta do your homework and know what it is you need to buy.

 

[Ryuuken]

Well..As far as i tuned cars with BOT..
The reliability is based on the tuning skills.As a tuner,we can go beyond the car engine limits.
But do keep in mind that wear and tear will be more. And the risk that you're taking by pushing the car to a brutal level might cause your pocket to blow just to patch up wear and tears.
Its best to ask the tuner to maintain it between the lines.
Do not go crazy over HP at the same time, make the best out of the turbo kit.
It is good to use brand new parts.AND also the parts that you used must not be some 'cap ayam' brand.You'll be spending more than you buy original..haha..
I as a Haltech Tuner,I recommend you to use every single parts which is good in quality.
It'll be great for the long run and there'll be more room for expansion.

Cheers!

 

[peeche]

So scary?

what car you want BOT.?

 

[aranny2001]

Well..As far as i tuned cars with BOT..
The reliability is based on the tuning skills.As a tuner,we can go beyond the car engine limits.
But do keep in mind that wear and tear will be more. And the risk that you're taking by pushing the car to a brutal level might cause your pocket to blow just to patch up wear and tears.
Its best to ask the tuner to maintain it between the lines.
Do not go crazy over HP at the same time, make the best out of the turbo kit.
It is good to use brand new parts.AND also the parts that you used must not be some 'cap ayam' brand.You'll be spending more than you buy original..haha..
I as a Haltech Tuner,I recommend you to use every single parts which is good in quality.
It'll be great for the long run and there'll be more room for expansion.

Cheers!

:wavey:To:TS tumpang to ask ..

sifu, i plan to bot the new myvi 1.5 in future... the engine compression is 10:1, it is consider high to boost at max 0.5 bar? will i need to reduce the compression or change any internal parts? acutally im expecting a low safe boost or soft turbo for the car, daily driven and suit for long distance drive and wish after bot it will be as easy to maintain just like an normal auto gear NA car.. im not plan for racing but just expect slightly more torque with some nice bov sound...

 

[Jac83]

:wavey:To:TS tumpang to ask ..

sifu, i plan to bot the new myvi 1.5 in future... the engine compression is 10:1, it is consider high to boost at max 0.5 bar? will i need to reduce the compression or change any internal parts? acutally im expecting a low safe boost or soft turbo for the car, daily driven and suit for long distance drive and wish after bot it will be as easy to maintain just like an normal auto gear NA car.. im not plan for racing but just expect slightly more torque with some nice bov sound...

I'll suggest u go for a full engine transplant if u wish to turbo your myvi. Reliability and cost wise, bot will always falls behind a full engine transplant. A bot will set u back at least 10k doesn't matter whether u are go for low boost or high assuming u are getting all parts new. Higher boost will cost u more. For full engine transplant will cost u roughly about 9k, k3-vet halfcut- around 6k, labor and workmanship about 1.5k, overhaul with internal tear n wear replacement- around 1.5k but in return u get a peace of mind while boosting on the road. Reliability is the key here plus cheaper to maintain in long term and cheaper overall package of course.

 

[Alvin Lee Edwards]

what car you want BOT.?

I'll be getting either a N16 sentra or Accord yr'01 next month. U know these type a bit on the SOFT side.
Just looking for a way to squeeze some FUN in it while not sacrificing the comfort. I have no tuning experience, so i try to find some way to get a good job at one go.

 

[Izso]

Forget the N16. If you insist on a Sentra at the very least get the 1.8.

There's a very very fine line between performance and comfort. You can't have both. Once you do find the balance, eventually you'll want more power and more and more and more...

 

[MKMD428]

Forget the N16. If you insist on a Sentra at the very least get the 1.8.

There's a very very fine line between performance and comfort. You can't have both. Once you do find the balance, eventually you'll want more power and more and more and more...

N16 user here.
yes. i agree with izso.. forget the N16 if you intend to mod the stock engine. money per hp ratio is very2 bad.
QG18 is quite good...but in general..any QG engines are not that friendly to play with. here's a friend who did BOT his QG..but mind you, you'll be shocked and amazed by the aftermarket product that was chosen and the money spent as well. This was his path and he chose not to transplant engine and off course his financial wise is good.

The N16 Files

in the States...those yanks modded the QR series. QR20 and QR25.. I've read and viewed couple of good aftermarket products for them and they are not as weak as the QG series. But then again..QR series halfcuts in Malaysia are not that easy to be stumble upon. let alone their spares I presume..

myself ended up with SR20DET after knowing the low points of QG series.
hope my explanation helps.

 

[aranny2001]

I'll suggest u go for a full engine transplant if u wish to turbo your myvi. Reliability and cost wise, bot will always falls behind a full engine transplant. A bot will set u back at least 10k doesn't matter whether u are go for low boost or high assuming u are getting all parts new. Higher boost will cost u more. For full engine transplant will cost u roughly about 9k, k3-vet halfcut- around 6k, labor and workmanship about 1.5k, overhaul with internal tear n wear replacement- around 1.5k but in return u get a peace of mind while boosting on the road. Reliability is the key here plus cheaper to maintain in long term and cheaper overall package of course.

what you said also true la.. but mine is 1.5cc, is daihatsu git any oem turbo charged 1.5cc turbo engine? k3-vet is 1.3cc only

 

[Ryuuken]

:wavey:To:TS tumpang to ask ..

sifu, i plan to bot the new myvi 1.5 in future... the engine compression is 10:1, it is consider high to boost at max 0.5 bar? will i need to reduce the compression or change any internal parts? acutally im expecting a low safe boost or soft turbo for the car, daily driven and suit for long distance drive and wish after bot it will be as easy to maintain just like an normal auto gear NA car.. im not plan for racing but just expect slightly more torque with some nice bov sound...

Woah..10.1 for a turbo plus DVVT and dare to boost at 0.5..haha...
Becareful..that is a risk you're going to take..What if the fuel is lean..dead and gone...
One thing i recommend the compression ratio to be 8.2..Why?
-First,it is much safer...
-Second,you want to go high rev until 7000 RPM also wont be a problem,
-Third,wear and tear will be lesser.It'll be very reliable.
-Fourth,Might sound a bit selfish,but it'll be easier for us to tune..HAHAHA...
High compression cars is hard for us to tune...honest...
Engine transplant might work as well...Perhaps may cost lesser...But if you love to combine DVVT with turbo..its up to you..
You do know why factory don't set the boost higher right?
It's because they know it'll affect the reliability. The GTO i'm driving now could be boost up and also the compression could be increase,but of course the price is the reliability of the car. It'll go way beyond suck.

---------- Post added at 09:29 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:26 AM ----------

Forget the N16. If you insist on a Sentra at the very least get the 1.8.

There's a very very fine line between performance and comfort. You can't have both. Once you do find the balance, eventually you'll want more power and more and more and more...

You're a HP maniac aren't you izso...hahaha....

 

[Izso]

To be exact I'm a torque maniac. I'm not all that eager on WHP.

 

[virqai]

the only thing i always see...if turbo engine,TURBO coz will make engine kong and if vvt engine,VVT will make engine kong...then???
ieyang tuwe`k.....sorry if i'm wrong...

 

[Jac83]

In short reliability for bot will not be much of an issue if u get all the parts right with proper tuning and maintainence. Do bear in mind though a na engine is always at it's best when used as it is thus by bot even with all the tuning and parts replacement, in the end U'll still be shortening the lifespan of the engine as well as accelerating the tear and wear. That is the fact.

 

[Veloc]

I would set aside RM10k for a proper job with almost no recon / halfcut parts. I don't trust those type of parts unless it's a aircon compressor or something unimportant. halfcut pistons, turbos or cranks - that's scary unless you know how to look out for the lemons.

Seeing this makes me sad la... Are used parts really that bad? I am thinking of using everything new except for crankshaft and conrods. Because I heard my 4AFE can fit in 4AGZE crankshaft and rods easily. Pistons will get new of course. Im just aiming for low boost also like our bro here, so actually no need to change crankshaft. But I was thinking if I overhaul my engine, might as well put in a tough part there just for safety.

So what do you guys think? Original crankshaft (not meant for boost) more reliable or a used supercharged crankshaft (means for boost) is more reliable???

 

[ixeo]

I'll suggest u go for a full engine transplant if u wish to turbo your myvi. Reliability and cost wise, bot will always falls behind a full engine transplant. A bot will set u back at least 10k doesn't matter whether u are go for low boost or high assuming u are getting all parts new. Higher boost will cost u more. For full engine transplant will cost u roughly about 9k, k3-vet halfcut- around 6k, labor and workmanship about 1.5k, overhaul with internal tear n wear replacement- around 1.5k but in return u get a peace of mind while boosting on the road. Reliability is the key here plus cheaper to maintain in long term and cheaper overall package of course.

Depends. A BOT can be put together for the same price as an engine swap and be just as reliable if done correctly. The only tricky part is engine management. If you do it right the end result will be just as reliable as engine swap, and more powerful. The same cannot be said for the N/A's transmission be it manual or automatic. LOL.

In short reliability for bot will not be much of an issue if u get all the parts right with proper tuning and maintainence. Do bear in mind though a na engine is always at it's best when used as it is thus by bot even with all the tuning and parts replacement, in the end U'll still be shortening the lifespan of the engine as well as accelerating the tear and wear. That is the fact.

That's not a fact, that's false. The answer is it depends on the engine design. Since the guy was asking about the Daihatsu/Perodua engines, the K3-VE block is exactly the same as the K3-VET block. The conrods are exactly the same, the heads are interchangeable, the only difference on the engine is the injectors and low compression pistons.

Seeing this makes me sad la... Are used parts really that bad? I am thinking of using everything new except for crankshaft and conrods. Because I heard my 4AFE can fit in 4AGZE crankshaft and rods easily. Pistons will get new of course. Im just aiming for low boost also like our bro here, so actually no need to change crankshaft. But I was thinking if I overhaul my engine, might as well put in a tough part there just for safety.

So what do you guys think? Original crankshaft (not meant for boost) more reliable or a used supercharged crankshaft (means for boost) is more reliable???

You will need to find out if the original crankshaft is the same part as the 4AGZE crankshaft. If it is the same, then....