How to choose engine oil?

vr2turbo

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I'm going to be testing Penrite from Aussieland this Friday. Video-ing the whole thing too cuz they claim that the oil will quieten any engine and give superior protection. Also, it's 100% ester/pao base oil too, not just any old mix
Is Ester or POA? One is Group 5 and one is Group 4 or do you mean mix?

If want a quiet engine try looking for ER (Energy Release) Metal Conditioner. Tried before at mechanic there. Warm wira engine up, set the tappets run engine again still got tik, tik tappet sound. Pour in ER rev to 4k RPM for one minute, then let idle, no more sound....:driver:
 

Supra_Fanatics

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Havent tried prince FS yet. Seems got good feedback. But I have always like Chemlube. However price of Chemlube I can get the Toyota TRD FS already.
 

vr2turbo

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Havent tried prince FS yet. Seems got good feedback. But I have always like Chemlube. However price of Chemlube I can get the Toyota TRD FS already.
Now drive Kancil no need Chemlube or Prince FS lah!....
VR also use cheap FS only...also use 10 years liao.....:driver:
 

Supra_Fanatics

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He got use, but want to spend more $$$....hahahha:rofl:
No no. Cuz Lexus FS same price. Better use Lexus :biggrin:

---------- Post added at 08:27 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:26 AM ----------

Now drive Kancil no need Chemlube or Prince FS lah!....
VR also use cheap FS only...also use 10 years liao.....:driver:
No la. Prince or Chemlube surely for Jetta only. K-cars all use Gold SS Perodua only. Never gonna use Mineral Oil on my cars man...
 

vr2turbo

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No no. Cuz Lexus FS same price. Better use Lexus :biggrin:

---------- Post added at 08:27 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:26 AM ----------



No la. Prince or Chemlube surely for Jetta only. K-cars all use Gold SS Perodua only. Never gonna use Mineral Oil on my cars man...
Lexus probably name only. Someone make for them. Bardahl at least their own....:smokin:

If Jetta not use daily, no point also. This is from TS posting, I am sure you did not read...

Pros of ester base oil:
1) High Viscosity Index, meaning the viscosity is more stable under high temp fluctuation.
2) Good low temp performance
3) Good deposit control, meaning good cleansing capability.
4) Hydrolytic stable, less decomposition.
5) Good film strength, meaning the lubricant can take very high pressure sandwiched between 2 surfaces.

Cons of ester base oil:
1) Less miscible oil, meaning you would have problem mixing with additive/chemical.
2) Hygroscopic: Ester will naturally attract water/moisture from atmosphere.
3) Elastomer compatibility: Less friendly with rubber/polymer seals in engine
 

xbalance2002

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im planning to do engine flush & decarbon which band to buy for best cleaning job?
 

vr2turbo

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im planning to do engine flush & decarbon which band to buy for best cleaning job?
Using chemical flush or normal oil flush.
Chemical flush is to add a can of cleaners to old oil and let idle before draining.
Normal oil flush means getting some light viscosity oil like straight 30 or even 20 weight, do an oil change, run for a while then drain it.

Read more here...
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/do-it-yourself-garage/163725-diy-oil-change-and-flush.html
 

Comanche

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Currently, I'm using Bardahl Fully Synthetic 5W-30 for my Proton Persona. Next engine oil change I wanna try Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic 0W-40.
 

Supra_Fanatics

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To keep your campro quiet......:driver::smokin:
That kind of vicosity usually only recommend to cars more than 10 years old no bro?
I didn't know proton set that is just to make sure the campro quiet. Is indeed noisy lol
 

vr2turbo

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That kind of vicosity usually only recommend to cars more than 10 years old no bro?
I didn't know proton set that is just to make sure the campro quiet. Is indeed noisy lol
20w-50 was the only multi grade oil to use those days.....hahahahahaha:biggrin:
 

Oilfieldac

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Most of the time, car manufacturer do not know what condition are you facing at site. The manufacturer recommendation should be taken as a guide , not a must follow advice. Generally, newer car with closer gap tolerance between cylinder wall and piston uses a thinner lube oil...while older cars with wider gap tolerance uses a thicker oil to compensate the sealing.

Between mineral oil and synthetic oil, my preference is mineral oil. Though synthetic oil have the durability over the mineral oil, one should also take consideration of the airborne silica sand(silica is the most abundant material in our soil) pick up while driving on the road ... often these airborne silica are so tiny micron in size that they passes through the air filter. Silica particle are hard and can cause abrasion in metal moving parts. Imagine you have a synthetic oil that you drive for 10,000km ... you would have accumulated much airborne silica particle in the system than a mineral oil that requires you to drive only 5,000km.

Frequent oil change = frequent contaminant removal = lesser abrasion wear to your engine system.
 

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