Help Kelisa vibrating very hard

[mcliong1]

Hi all sifu, pls advise on my kelisa auto 1.0 auto year 2004.all standard.

I have 2 problem.

1) When idling at D gear position, it vibrate very hard especially when the air con compressor running. When the compressor stops and also in N gear position. It is happy... It the mounting kong?

2) During cold start the tapped sound/knocking sound are very lound. tak tak tak... i rev it, it become more louder. After warm up, it reduce but still there. Engine oil problem?

thanks

 

[xtremeleo]

it may be due to hardened vacuum hose, or worse yet, damaged/torn. check those first as from ur explanation i dont think ur mounting is dat bad, at least not yet ler

 

[DanzEterna]

1) When idling at D gear position, it vibrate very hard especially when the air con compressor running. When the compressor stops and also in N gear position. It is happy... It the mounting kong?
** yeah possible its your engine mouting needs replacement

2) During cold start the tapped sound/knocking sound are very lound. tak tak tak... i rev it, it become more louder. After warm up, it reduce but still there. Engine oil problem?
**try using 10w/40 oil.

 

[mcliong1]

it may be due to hardened vacuum hose, or worse yet, damaged/torn. check those first as from ur explanation i dont think ur mounting is dat bad, at least not yet ler

if vaccum hose is the problem. Estimated what is the normal price to fix it? any different if i choose OEM and Original. tq

---------- Post added at 11:13 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:10 AM ----------

1) When idling at D gear position, it vibrate very hard especially when the air con compressor running. When the compressor stops and also in N gear position. It is happy... It the mounting kong?
** yeah possible its your engine mouting needs replacement

2) During cold start the tapped sound/knocking sound are very lound. tak tak tak... i rev it, it become more louder. After warm up, it reduce but still there. Engine oil problem?
**try using 10w/40 oil.

if mounting was the problme. Recommended to replace all or just which are bad only to be replace?

I think my oil now is 10/40 already. It the oil brand affects it? because 1st i use this local brand that intro by the mechanic but i found out not really as good as the previous I used that is "Savana o
il"

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

Best replace all, no point replacing one by one as per advice before. Kelisa mounting wont be cheap. I heard original Daihatsu may
cost you up to RM900. Which everyone is asking, the only thing that is expensive about Kelisa is the mounting.

Some said, best not to get the local cheap ones, cuz it wont last long and end up you have to change again. So might as well,
get an ori one from Daihatsu which can last u longer. A/T Kelisa Mounting, tend to wear off faster than Manual.

Maybe you can try Chemlube, I have not tried on Kelisa, but other cars seems fine and quiet. Smooth too.

 

[mcliong1]

Best replace all, no point replacing one by one as per advice before. Kelisa mounting wont be cheap. I heard original Daihatsu may
cost you up to RM900. Which everyone is asking, the only thing that is expensive about Kelisa is the mounting.

Some said, best not to get the local cheap ones, cuz it wont last long and end up you have to change again. So might as well,
get an ori one from Daihatsu which can last u longer. A/T Kelisa Mounting, tend to wear off faster than Manual.

Maybe you can try Chemlube, I have not tried on Kelisa, but other cars seems fine and quiet. Smooth too.

yes, i also heard that as the local 1 also may cost 5hundred smth.
U said that A/T mounting tent to wear faster. How do we know if the A/T already wears off? thanks

 

[kazukimy]

juz get a set and change all the mountings, as per oil, basically just avoid any brand that is weird, chemlube?lolz..exp la,juz normal 10w40 can ady...

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

Sorry I mean, A/T transmission Kelisa Engine's Mounting tend to wear off faster than Manual Kelisa. How to know ar? Common unusual
vibration that u can feel from your car. For instance, mine before I bought, when I put in reverse gear, it vibrates badly or when u stop
at a red light, the car tends to vibrate more when D is engaged. As long as the vibration is unusual and engine tend to sound louder,
then better get mounting check. Usually kong or broken.

You can't feel much when ur car starts moving, only when it is on a halt and engine is running.

Correct me if I'm wrong but u may also google what are the signs of mounting is broken, or time to change.

---------- Post added at 12:57 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:53 PM ----------

Ya, kazuki is right, no need so expensive oil la unless can afford. Especially is just a Kelisa Last time i changed it only cost me
around RM60 -70 I think. Can't remember. So far only service once ever since i bought it.

Ori RM900 and Local made RM500, maybe can opt for RM900, also need to calculate how long it can really last?
Whether is worth getting ori or just local made.

Need to do some research. Let's say if RM500 can last for 2 years, while RM900 can last for 3 years, So basically RM500 more worth it

That's what I was told by my fren, need to calculate by doing research on comparisons LOL! Haven't really compared yet.

 

[DanzEterna]

go for oem moutings enuf, change the ones that bush already koyak.
sometimes if u buy oil from spare part shop esp: shell, castrol magnatec, actually those
are fake or recycled engine oil, hence yr tappets will be loud. last time i used to buy shell helix semi at spare part shop
4L bout rm75-80....tappet still loud, then bought shell same brand, 10w40 from tesco, tappet sound eliminated.

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

So best to just buy Engine Oils from their respective outlet right? Like SHell Oil from Shell Station. Mobil Oil from Mobil Station..

---------- Post added at 04:31 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:29 PM ----------

Danz:
My mech told me to best to change all mountings, so can actually change the ones that is faulty? He said less hassle if just change all one short. If not after awhile the other piece rosak again, change again also extra cost.

If can change separately then will do so.

 

[aaronlim]

Hi all sifu, pls advise on my kelisa auto 1.0 auto year 2004.all standard.

I have 2 problem.

1) When idling at D gear position, it vibrate very hard especially when the air con compressor running. When the compressor stops and also in N gear position. It is happy... It the mounting kong?

2) During cold start the tapped sound/knocking sound are very lound. tak tak tak... i rev it, it become more louder. After warm up, it reduce but still there. Engine oil problem?

thanks

Just my 2 cents comments.
1. Normally, engine mounting is the main thing to check on this cases. if one crack or spoil..best to change all.. i think got 3 if not wrong.

2. during cold start...tak tak sound like the rocker arm tapping on the valve... with the engine oil still at the bottom during cold start... some tuning / adjust on the valve clearance may help.. go have a check with your trusted mechanic.

 

[mcliong1]

Sorry I mean, A/T transmission Kelisa Engine's Mounting tend to wear off faster than Manual Kelisa. How to know ar? Common unusual
vibration that u can feel from your car. For instance, mine before I bought, when I put in reverse gear, it vibrates badly or when u stop
at a red light, the car tends to vibrate more when D is engaged. As long as the vibration is unusual and engine tend to sound louder,
then better get mounting check. Usually kong or broken.

You can't feel much when ur car starts moving, only when it is on a halt and engine is running.

Correct me if I'm wrong but u may also google what are the signs of mounting is broken, or time to change.

---------- Post added at 12:57 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:53 PM ----------

Ya, kazuki is right, no need so expensive oil la unless can afford. Especially is just a Kelisa Last time i changed it only cost me
around RM60 -70 I think. Can't remember. So far only service once ever since i bought it.

Ori RM900 and Local made RM500, maybe can opt for RM900, also need to calculate how long it can really last?
Whether is worth getting ori or just local made.

Need to do some research. Let's say if RM500 can last for 2 years, while RM900 can last for 3 years, So basically RM500 more worth it

That's what I was told by my fren, need to calculate by doing research on comparisons LOL! Haven't really compared yet.

hey, thanks bro for the advise

---------- Post added at 06:58 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 06:56 PM ----------

go for oem moutings enuf, change the ones that bush already koyak.
sometimes if u buy oil from spare part shop esp: shell, castrol magnatec, actually those
are fake or recycled engine oil, hence yr tappets will be loud. last time i used to buy shell helix semi at spare part shop
4L bout rm75-80....tappet still loud, then bought shell same brand, 10w40 from tesco, tappet sound eliminated.

haha... i tot the 1 where sold in Tesco is the fake 1 and the spare part shop is the real 1... Guess i am wrong...hehe

---------- Post added at 06:59 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 06:58 PM ----------

Just my 2 cents comments.
1. Normally, engine mounting is the main thing to check on this cases. if one crack or spoil..best to change all.. i think got 3 if not wrong.

2. during cold start...tak tak sound like the rocker arm tapping on the valve... with the engine oil still at the bottom during cold start... some tuning / adjust on the valve clearance may help.. go have a check with your trusted mechanic.

ok, thanks bro...

---------- Post added at 06:59 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 06:59 PM ----------

juz get a set and change all the mountings, as per oil, basically just avoid any brand that is weird, chemlube?lolz..exp la,juz normal 10w40 can ady...

thanks bro

 

[DanzEterna]

i mean if the mounting bushings are still in good condition no need to change...
& its quite a simple job,..its not like changing water pump & timing belt 1 shot...cos ori ones
are much better than oem ones..