Fuel Pressure Regulator Setting

[Wajafly]

GT20v, :)

Really. As an Auto, no matter how I rev with my car... can't go beyond 6.5K RPM... yeah... even with adjustable cam pulley. Do I have any RPM cut installed in my gearbox or what?

Bigger valve? Hmm... I'm dumb here. :) What's bigger valve and how much is it anyway? Will appreciate if all the sifu here can advice on further NA upgrades. I want to go mod until the end before changing the engine... :)

Oh yeah, please don't ask me change Manual cause the car's not really mine. :)

 

[GT20v]

wajafly,

cant go beyond 6.5k??em weird unless ur max rev is 6.5k la..but maybe....as im not familiar with ur car engine......
bigger valve mean changing the valve to a bigger size..more air flow to engine...more flow + ngam2 fuel + ignition will always create more power........cant advise you coz again..not familiar with ur car engine.......

emmmmm cam,cam pulley..what left for NA tune is just..

more lighten and balance internal
more compression ratio
4 Throttle bodies
more stroke

hehehhe

why dunt you dyno it??? see whats the fruit of your mod...hehehe

 

[Wajafly]

Thanks a lot. But before dyno, I think I will first save up money to get better engine management system then only go for a dyno. Cause I feel the SAFC2 and SITC is just not good enough.

Thanks for the mods suggestion. Heard that 4G18 is running on very high compression already. And 4 throttle need Toyota ECU? More stroke length = more displacement right? Will road tax passed?

 

[GT20v]

stand alone is always a good choice provided the tuner also good.....
if not..it will be the same the tuner lah......

:)..u dun need a toyota ecu to use 4throttle la bro...its a mechanical stuff just like ur camshaft...same thing like the twin side draft carb....but this one is in FI form...consult ur mech...or head to toyota forum and do a search....heheh

emm stroker kit no need roadtax change...block,yeap..coz change the block number......heheh if only no engine number sure can use without change roadtax lar.....hehehhe

 

[Wajafly]

Thx for the info, GT20v

If possible, can belanja you minum? :)

 

[GT20v]

minum??
anytime...heheheh drop by our TT in USJ...every 2 weeks...
next 2week got 1........hehehe

 

[drexchan]

something to ask the sifu here....

i am using the Arospeed adjustable FPR running at 38/44 psi (idling/WOT). I know that the stock FPR should retain the pressure after the engine is switch off, for quite long..

But with the Arospeed FPR, the pressure just drops to nil within few seconds once the engine is turned off.

Is this normal?

 

[V8_nutter]

GT20v, :)

Really. As an Auto, no matter how I rev with my car... can't go beyond 6.5K RPM... yeah... even with adjustable cam pulley. Do I have any RPM cut installed in my gearbox or what?

Bigger valve? Hmm... I'm dumb here. :) What's bigger valve and how much is it anyway? Will appreciate if all the sifu here can advice on further NA upgrades. I want to go mod until the end before changing the engine... :)

Oh yeah, please don't ask me change Manual cause the car's not really mine. :)

Wajafly, might be ure running rich on the high RPM or something wrong wif your ECU (reason you cant go beyond 6.5k). Then for your FPR setup, obviously the setup for normal/part throttle is not cun , not to blame power+++ tuneup, but from the story you made its shows that they are not experience enough for tuning, why dont you go back to charlie and ask him tune ??.

 

[V8_nutter]

Thanks a lot. But before dyno, I think I will first save up money to get better engine management system then only go for a dyno. Cause I feel the SAFC2 and SITC is just not good enough.

Thanks for the mods suggestion. Heard that 4G18 is running on very high compression already. And 4 throttle need Toyota ECU? More stroke length = more displacement right? Will road tax passed?

Fren,,,Safc and Itc are indeed sufficient enough for your kind of mods, dont waste your money for something you dont need. 4g18 compression is low lar, dont worry.

 

[V8_nutter]

wajafly,

cant go beyond 6.5k??em weird unless ur max rev is 6.5k la..but maybe....as im not familiar with ur car engine......
bigger valve mean changing the valve to a bigger size..more air flow to engine...more flow + ngam2 fuel + ignition will always create more power........cant advise you coz again..not familiar with ur car engine.......

emmmmm cam,cam pulley..what left for NA tune is just..

more lighten and balance internal
more compression ratio
4 Throttle bodies
more stroke

hehehhe

why dunt you dyno it??? see whats the fruit of your mod...hehehe

I think its better to sort out his main problem first other than do upgrade which is not nessecary.

 

[V8_nutter]

First of all, thank you to everyone who replied to me with great advises like EFN and GT20v.

GT20v, I don't know the cam lift duration but should be around 270 and below maybe? Got no idea and just guessing. The difference is great with P+P. For my Auto, I can say it is faster than standard Waja but NOT good enough to race with any stock GTI or Perdana. However, I am happy with the excellent service and product of MatSpeed.

EFN, thanks for the great tuning reference on FPR setting. Yeah... with the hose disconnected and set to 43, my car chokes like hell and dies off. He (the so claimed professional / engineer boss from power bengkel) says it is a normal procedure of tuning that way. Even when I mentioned what his mechanic did, he says it is normal to him. I had that conversation recorded if you guys don't believe me.

Well, I suspect my engine dies off firstly because of wrongly adjusted FPR setting, but the mechanic seems to think the sensors might be dirty. So, he disconnected the connectors from boost sensor and took the high pressure air gun and sprayed into the sensors connectors including directly at the sensor while it's being attached. That is where I suspect causes permanent damage to my boost sensor on top of my Intake manifold which after that, my car not able to start again even after FPR has been adjusted correctly... Sigh... what a Power-Bengkel it is... I have so much high hope in them based on their nice sweet talking website... Sigh... I am still filling up my Tribunal Court of Claims forms...

Doktahu, I think EFN also mentioned it is about 43.5 PSI for normal Waja. I heard this setting from a friend as well. Funny, I feel good at 43 as well. Maybe a little higher will give better performance? How high is too high? I heard that Waja is running on high compression already. Maybe that's why we run on lower PSI instead?

Slower than GTI is because you using auto transmission. Sensor is dirty than the car dies off,,,, whoa this is one of the silliest reason ive heard lar,,, obviously your FPR setup is low

 

[V8_nutter]

Fuel injection system require pressurized fuel to go through the injectors. ECU will only send signal to open or close the injectors based on whatever input it gets from the sensors. So by default almost all EFi cars uses Fuel Pressure Regulators at the return line path to regulate the desired pressure by the manufacturer. Typically from factory, pressure is always pre-set high to help enriching the mix to ensure that knocking/pinging are eliminated. But too rich a mix will also cause most cars bogs down and slow in response.

For tuners and car enthusiast, the opportunity to use an Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator presents some sort of control on the output. This is applicable regardless in what state your car are in - modified or non modified - u still need pressurized fuel else the injectors will not be able to get fuel pass through it. The right amount of pressure will definitely makes the engine happy.

* but nowadays I have seen a lot of new cars does not use Fuel Return System so it has to be that they use some sort of intelligent fuel pump that regulate pressure as required.

No fuel return ?? hmm like dat fuel pump will koyak lar.

 

[drexchan]

V8_nutter,

it's true. There is no return line for cars like kelisa, kenari, etc. The pump will regulate the pressure. Believe it.

 

[drexchan]

but no one answered my question..

 

[zaki]

something to ask the sifu here....

i am using the Arospeed adjustable FPR running at 38/44 psi (idling/WOT). I know that the stock FPR should retain the pressure after the engine is switch off, for quite long..

But with the Arospeed FPR, the pressure just drops to nil within few seconds once the engine is turned off.

Is this normal?

if the engine is off that means the fuel pump is off. so no more pressure...it's normal. same like mine.

if i'm not mistaken k20A has no return fuel line. the fuel pressure is very low