Cheap fuel pressure regulator. Any good?

[Veloc]

Hi guys...

There are a lot of aftermarket fuel pressure regulators out there in the market. I have seen Works FPR on sale for rm250 in mudah last time. Then there are Tomei and Sard FPR for rm150 which is clearly imitation.

Just want to ask:

1. Is there any benefits in changing to an aftermarket FPR (those with a dial) compared to the stock FPR?

2. Is there any harm/risk/ disadvantages of using an imitation (such as Tomei)?


Thank you..

 

[egb18c]

1.Its up to your modification on the engine.first if your stock FPR is faulty,better to change to adj FPR. If your engine is stock,its not worth at all.why...if you set the fuel pressure higher,it will make your engine richer,if you set it low,you could have an lean engine. even i have an adj fpr,i set it to stock fuel pressure.

2. yes.they will always do, let say you set it at 3 bar,but the real pressure is 2 bar.this could make your engine run hotter and melt your piston.

Tips: if you buy a fuel pressure gauge,try to place it somewhere cool(reading would be less lower if its hot). And one more tip is to drain out the gel/liquid inside the gauge.

 

[Veloc]

Why drain out the liquid? I see that some is dry while some got liquid inside.

 

[4gbanger]

on my opinion, parts that are related closely to engine process is better to be original. doesnt matter if its a halfcut condition becoz we need its optimum reliability.. imagine your engine rev 8000 rpm and suddenly ur cheap FPR kaput and running really lean... kaboom bro... i'm driving turbo cars and i'm not willing to use imitation FPR. i would rather dig in the halfcut to get original FPR if im running out of budget.. i cant imagine my car running high boost and FPR died...

 

[me2kimi]

Hi bro Veloc, I'm using cheap unbrand FPR for almost 3 years now and so far no problem. Bought it for RM80 only.

 

[Izso]

I wouldnt consider fake brands. The membrane inside is what controls the fuel pressure so youll never have a piece of mind with fakes. Im using the works one for almost 5 years now all good. If you buy get the stage two one.

 

[escksu]

You only need an aftermarket FPR if your stock one is insufficient to provide the required pressure. It largely depends on what you are doing to your engine. Minor power mods do not require aftermarket FR at all.

Btw, FPR do not increase power. It only ensures there is sufficient pressure so injectors could spray the required fuel for combustion. Btw FPR alone is sometimes insufficient. You may need larger injectors or higher capacity fuel pump (eg. Walbro, Bosch etc).

 

[Veloc]

It's not that i want to get it for cosmetic purposes. The reason i asked is because a fellow member who also uses the blacktop engine advised me to get. My car is all stock. I was also surprised when he told me to get one. I told him that it wasn't necessary as my car is all stock. He ask me to trust him and just go get one. It's good for the blacktop he said. So I guess I'll get one in the future some time. Just a cheaper functional one as long as it's ori, such as the works engineering one. Thanks guys..

 

[bera]

Why drain out the liquid? I see that some is dry while some got liquid inside.

the liquid is there to avoid the indicator needle from [email protected] dont want a ticking needle when tuning...its a vicious liquid...the consistency is similar to mineral oil...i top up mine with glycerin...can be bought at pharmacy just rm 2 per bottle...

 

[pangyau]

bera,
Does the problem happen if using original/premium AFR (TOMEI/SARD)?

 

[egb18c]

well for me after i emptied out the oil.it doesnt ticking.easily set up my pressure to 3 bar.

why I empty out the oil because when your engine bay is hot, the oil will become hotter and this will make the spring/mechanism inside the gauge longer as to heat expansion(forgot the term).
This will lead to lower reading from the actual pressure. thats why you need to put the gauge at a cool place, if not the reading on the gauge will say 3bar when the engine is cool and maybe 2 bar or lower after a hard drive, but the actual pressure is still the same, 3bar just the gauge is incorrect due to heat expansion.

korang paham tak?lol.pardon my not vely good enringsh

 

[Veloc]

well for me after i emptied out the oil.it doesnt ticking.easily set up my pressure to 3 bar.

why I empty out the oil because when your engine bay is hot, the oil will become hotter and this will make the spring/mechanism inside the gauge longer as to heat expansion(forgot the term).
This will lead to lower reading from the actual pressure. thats why you need to put the gauge at a cool place, if not the reading on the gauge will say 3bar when the engine is cool and maybe 2 bar or lower after a hard drive, but the actual pressure is still the same, 3bar just the gauge is incorrect do to heat expansion.

korang paham tak?lol.pardon my not vely good enringsh

Thanks bro. Got your meaning. So you say that the display reading wont be accurate although the real pressure is actually correct.

 

[bera]

agreed on the heat expansion thingy...mine does tick a little when the liquid dry up...but depends on the scale i guess...my scale max out at 5 bar...some i see the scale is up to 10 bar...i guess if the larger the unit scale is...you wont see much movement in the needle...

 

[DanzEterna]

still able to use provided your engine has no heavy mods.
std evo1,2,3, vr4, gsr can use.

 

[egb18c]

Thanks bro. Got your meaning. So you say that the display reading wont be accurate although the real pressure is actually correct.

yupe.thats correct.took about a week to figure out this problem,since my car has this thing called fuel pressure controller, in which the system will adjust the fuel pump voltage during idle/cruising/WOT. so i delete that variable first by installing relay to my walbro(now it whine.ngeee......). then i move the FPR to a cooler place and dry up the gauge(tips from a new zealande,forgot his nickname).

Then walla.problem solved.