You have such faith in FB sellers. It says ..Get this easier
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Thermal wrap...its a ballancing act.Hello guys.. restoration of my car is nearly done.. the carpet had been install, the passenger seat and of course.. the driver seat is a bucket seat. New dashboard, second hand meter with rpm and tinted. Only left now are the door trim, planning to change since the old one are gettin worst since the inside materials are falling off and the radio panel which didnt include with the new dashboard.
On the performance side.. nothing much for now cause spend lot of for the interior. What i had done so far for the performance are the absorber, which is Gab He series.. shud had gone for the Ha series since tat one can be service. I had changed to short shifter and my extractor to 4-1 include thermal wrap. Dont ask why going for 4-1 while mostly are using 421. Since changing the header my car rev quiet easily to 7-8 rpm. On the engine.. i just change the whole timing belt set and the water pump cause the old one is broken. Engine oil gearbox oil brake oil.. all changed. Im quiet happy for what i had done to the car. Tats all for now
If wrap on stainless steel pipe then should not be a problem then, right?Thermal wrap...its a ballancing act.
On the good side, it helps contain the heat inside the piping itself to promote flow and reduce heat in the engine bay. On the bad side, it can potentially traps moisture and promote rust which on normal steel extractor can greatly reduces its lifespan especially if the car is not driven regularly.
I wrap my waja pipe too but only at the curve below the engine. I did that as the curve is just beside the driveshaft boot. Heat and rubber boot does not goes along well, proven by the torn off previous driveshaft. Now i had to drive the waja to kebun every night and early morning.
It will leaves behind a nasty marking which cant be removed so u gotta keep using the wrapIf wrap on stainless steel pipe then should not be a problem then, right?
How about the welding part? Anyway, even stainless steel will get discolored with the heat..........It will leaves behind a nasty marking which cant be removed so u gotta keep using the wrap
Not sure abt that but usually the weld area is the strongest part of a joint metal piece.How about the welding part? Anyway, even stainless steel will get discolored with the heat..........
sigh..
this is what I was talking about. Study la bro. My 4G15 only had a cam pulley. Didn't use any ECU other than standard ECU. But that's because the overlap or lift is too much for the ecu to balance out. You'll need the piggyback or a standalone to manage the idling. But with a mild cam you don't have too much to worry about. And you don't need to upgrade your injectors la, you're not going full on high cams.
Seriously find another mech/tuner if this is what this guy is saying....
But again - back to my earlier question - why do you need the cam la? It doesn't do much if your engine is this stock. Maybe a small power gain here and there but SOHC just basically means you move the powerband around a little, not so much have massive gains. You want massive go for turbo
Right now? Or back then? Back then was a Wira 1.5 SE auto and had pretty much every single NA SOHC mod done to it that was reasonable and road-legal, then finally converted to manual after all that. Bad sequence of mods though, I should've modded the gb first then only do the rest. But lazy-mofo me wanted auto.Bro Izso, what car are you driving?
I am still on manual after so many many years.......lolRight now? Or back then? Back then was a Wira 1.5 SE auto and had pretty much every single NA SOHC mod done to it that was reasonable and road-legal, then finally converted to manual after all that. Bad sequence of mods though, I should've modded the gb first then only do the rest. But lazy-mofo me wanted auto.
Right now? Or back then? Back then was a Wira 1.5 SE auto and had pretty much every single NA SOHC mod done to it that was reasonable and road-legal, then finally converted to manual after all that. Bad sequence of mods though, I should've modded the gb first then only do the rest. But lazy-mofo me wanted auto.
Well i just get Satria 1.3, planning to slowly mod from the bottom such as start with suspension and etc.
Let say in future like 1-2 years time after saving some fund i would like to swap to 1.5/1.6L engine.
Which one would you reckon between 4g15/4g91/4g92mivec?
Consider this Satria is my toy car to play with and gonna daily drive with it.
And also please advise me which and which will be better in perfomance and easy to mod with such as spare part available for those engine.
Thank you all...