4AGE 20v BT semput and died

[ragerunner]

lol, so humble ar he. i didnt upload the photo, someone else snapped a pic of his car and posted it in the Rare Toyota thread. I merely shared the photo.

anyway photo in my post removed as per request.

 

[mh wong]

tq bro, u remind me in other post someone upload his photo, bfo i know him, u r right......

 

[shem_lexluger]

Hi guys, I'm back.

So 2 weeks ago, my battery finally "kong" so I bought a new one.

And then yesterday, finally after a problem-free driving for more than a month the problem resurfaced. Car died and unable to start like described in my first post.

Then I realized the fuel pump was not working because I'm familiar with the "hissing" sound it usually made. Long story short, I wiggled some random wires behind the center console then suddenly I can hear the fuel pump. Then I can start the car.

So I took off the center console to reveal the wiring and ECU. I noticed a circuit opening relay which supposedly is the fuel pump relay from what I read online. Do you guys know how it is supposed to function? I held it in my hand but I didn't feel the "click" when the key was at ACC, ON or Start but the car was started. Even better, I took it off and the car still starts. Probably the mech didn't even wire it at all?

Also, now that I am paying a special attention to the fuel pump, I noticed the pump is running even when the key is at ACC. Not right, right?

 

[levin818]

Looks like your fuel pump is running direct, and your FP relay is not connected.
Better refer it back to your mech.

 

[shem_lexluger]

A little update.

I have yet to send the car to a bengkel. Still trying to debug (for the lack of better term) the problem. After what I found today, I'm kinda glad I did this.

I found the connection that provides power to the fuel pump directly when the key is at ACC. Picture attached. Looking at the state of the splicing I am 90% certain this is the culprit of the intermittent fuel pump dying issue. The blue wire on the left has 12v when the key is at ACC. The exposed blue-black fuel pump wire has oxidized and I may need to replace the whole wire. Sometimes the level of incompetency shown in the workmanship is just unreal.

Next step, settle this blue-black wire thing. Then need to figure out how to wire the FP relay (or maybe bring to a mech).

I have also heard people say the FP relay is not that important. If I were to follow this path, what should I do? Replace the blue-black wire and add a splicing with the ACC blue wire using a better connector? Still sounds not right.

 

[levin818]

FP that control by relay is for safety purpose, ie: the ECU will shut down the FP when accident happening in order to avoid fire.

---------- Post added at 09:31 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:29 PM ----------

If i were the wire man i will at least use the crimping tools to clamp the join.

 

[shem_lexluger]

Yes Wong I agree.

I am ready to rewire the FP relay after tracing all five wires under the relay socket. Three wires have been disconnected by the mech which are the main 12v power source wire (blk-red), the power source when cranking (blk) and the wire from the ECU FC pin (grn-red). Took me days to trace these wires. The fuel pump power wire (blu-blk) and engine ground wire (wht-blk) are still intact.

I did a test run by temporary connecting all the wires I'm about to rewire later and the FP relay worked fine. I also disconnected the mech shortcut FP wiring of course. Will rewire n solder properly tomorrow.

 

[levin818]

Huh... sometimes DIY is better than sending our car to the workshop.

 

[shem_lexluger]

Just a personal note to say the car has been running fine for the past one year since this DIY fix was made and there's no mech visits other than normal oil servicing.

 

[KeMa]

I also facing the same problem. The problem occur after i clock 1,000km upon overhauled the car. when first occur the car just would suddenly off engine after it reaches it's operating temp. Diagnose it shows an error code 22 and 14 which represent ignition problem and water temperature sensor. Tried to borrow few of the water temp sensor but the problem still persist. Then i start changing;

1. Ignition Coil
after one week still occur

2. Distributor (it seems the distributor is already in bad condition)
still does not resolve the problem

3. Change to a new Blacktop 5 speed fuel pump
after one week happen again..this time..completely couldn't start!

Then diagnose again, shows faulty code..so then open up the ECU...there are two spots that burn out at the IC Board. Then i change to a 2nd hand ECU.

after a piece of mind for 300km..then the car starts jerking after i past 2,500rpm..DAMN!!! Last night i try to reset the ECU. During the reset process, the car is fine...like rev from (30m/h ~60km/h) , (30m/h ~70km/h), (30m/h ~80km/h), (30m/h ~100km/h) ..rev up to 7k rpm.
After that, i did my normal driving style..again the car starts jerking and semput after 2,500rpm..

Have discuss this with levin818...so now the possible reason could be the O2 sensor or the petrol filter..

Will also keep you guys update on this. Hope we can have a fruitful discussion and i could solve my problem

 

[KeMa]

OK just now change the fuel filter and also check the O2 sensor. O2 sensor was fine.But still the same problem persist...erratic rpm...the car still jerking... i really don't know what else to do...


Somebody please help..i still suspect the ECU problem. And one more thing, when diagnose..there is an error code. The error code is 42

Error code 42 = Vehicle Speed Sensor

 

[levin818]

KeMa, how do you check your O2 sensor?

 

[levin818]

Try this

 

[KeMa]

levin818

i refer to your post :

http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/toyota/322013-checking-your-o2-sensor.html

and it seems my O2 sensor is fine. There are around 8-10times of the multimeter's needle fluctuates

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

levin818

i refer to your post :

http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/toyota/322013-checking-your-o2-sensor.html

and it seems my O2 sensor is fine. There are around 8-10times of the multimeter's needle fluctuates

OK just now change the fuel filter and also check the O2 sensor. O2 sensor was fine.But still the same problem persist...erratic rpm...the car still jerking... i really don't know what else to do...


Somebody please help..i still suspect the ECU problem. And one more thing, when diagnose..there is an error code. The error code is 42

Error code 42 = Vehicle Speed Sensor

O2 sensor problem would NOT make engine dies/semput....it only make your car running rich....

i suspect it was the FICD or the Idling control servo or perhaps the ecu capacitor leaks again....

but first try swap the crank sensor...