Custom Banana exhaust manifold for AE111 toyota corolla SEG1.6

[dannybboy87]

Hi ...

Newbie here. I am driving a Toyota Corolla SEG1.6 (1996 model) here. I am thinking to modify my car now. Looking for some mods that can improve acceleration.

I am looking for Custom Banana Manifold for 4A-FE engine. Is there any custom made available out there in the market? i plan to use 4-2-1 extractor on my car and straight flow muffler also ....

Will the Modification Above improve car acceleration and pickup or not? Is there any side effect on the car and will the JPJ kacau my car o not if mod it this way? The car is for Town use and sometimes outstation use too.

Thanks

 

[Mr.Chaser]

Hi, try this:

http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/engine-and-performance/397058-4-1-extractor-4afe-7afe.html

Toyota AE101 AE100 4afe 1.6 SOHC extractor 421 - Car Accessories & Parts for sale Selangor - Mudah.my

Toyota AE101 AE100 4afe 1.6 SOHC extractor 421 - Car Accessories & Parts for sale Perak - Mudah.my

 

[dannybboy87]

like this type one have sale or not ? Can increase engine horsepower ? If have how much the price ?

 

[Mr.Chaser]

like this type one have sale or not ? Can increase engine horsepower ? If have how much the price ?

the pic u show for silvertop or blacktop only. 4afe only can use wat i refer. if not, can custom made similar but the price... u know lah! i will suggest if u new in modify journey, step to step 1st. otherwise hurt ur pocket:)

 

[mh wong]

straight BT 6 speed, dun waste ur money.....u r doing wat im done past 3 yrs....wasting money....now....im using BT.....just share:wavey:

 

[D7zul]

yup.. save ur money & get a race-spec engine

 

[meg_omen]

custom extractor with straight muffler?
well it might increase some... but very bad ratio comparing the cost against the power increase...:hmmmm:

btw, how far do you want to mod to achieve your final target? what your final target? how much money you willing to spend?
coz, nanti dah spend on 4afe, tak puas hati... nak convert to 4age... then mod some more...
then tak puas hati lagi, sell off and buiy other bigger car...:hmmmm:

 

[Veloc]

custom extractor with straight muffler?
well it might increase some... but very bad ratio comparing the cost against the power increase...:hmmmm:

btw, how far do you want to mod to achieve your final target? what your final target? how much money you willing to spend?
coz, nanti dah spend on 4afe, tak puas hati... nak convert to 4age... then mod some more...
then tak puas hati lagi, sell off and buiy other bigger car...:hmmmm:

This is true. What is your final target? If you are very sure what you want is achievable wth 4afe, then ok. No point modding so much then swap engine in the end. For me, i have solid reasons to keep my 4afe and my target is not that high. So i also mod my 4afe.

By the way, yours auto or manual? If manual, you can use your mentioned set up. If auto, stick with s flow and do not mess with the piping siZe. Just decat. Auto is a bitch if u disturb the exhaust.

 

[S.SIEW]

Hi Clannyboy.

Everyone above speak good honest truth.
Its all money vs. compromise vs. what you want.

Studying your post, it seems that 'town & outstation' is keyword here. By modding exhaust to straight-flow/bigger diameter pipe - I'm afraid your town/outstation comfort will suffer (especially for passengers). But.. If you don't mind the noise, then OK. It is really important that you first realise that you are going to give up comfort. I'd recommend you not to mod exhaust only because I think the noisier ride is not worth the small performance gain. But if you MUST do it.. please make sure you got 1 mid-box (it helps cut off the droning noise).

If I rewind back the 5 expensive years I spent on my SEG for driving to work/racing in autocross, I think the best/cheapest mods for this car for acceleration are:
> Drop-in air filter (Cheapest one you can find on Mudah is good enough). In most cases, nothing beats the original stock airbox casing.
> Good quality engine oil (Mobil1 Semi/Full)
> Lighter rims (Smaller is better e.g. 13"~14". Best compromise for looks/handling/acceleration/tyre choices = 15" with Michelin PilotSport3). I spent a lot testing many tyres (Parada Spec-2, BFGoodrich G-Sport, Toyo T1R). Nothing beats PS3 acceleration/grip/wet grip/cornering stability.
> Poly-Urethane (PU) bushings (for suspension arms & mounts). For engine acceleration, try replacing ONLY the front engine mount with a softer PU bushing unit, OR get a OEM replacement mount and fill it up with 3M Window weld (cheaper to do). The response will be very good and ride comfort is maintained. This is an expensive/time consuming option, but worth it if you are going to keep the car for long time.
> Clutch upgrade. Exedy Semi-race is good.

> I won't input on 4AFE vs 4AGE because I do not know if your driving style/needs are "Economy Low-Revving" vs "High-Revving". I can say is.. after transplanting 4AGE 20V, the "High-Revving" all the time did not match my driving style, so I have to live with that. So be careful in this area.

Cheers.

 

[Veloc]

Hi Clannyboy.

Everyone above speak good honest truth.
Its all money vs. compromise vs. what you want.

Studying your post, it seems that 'town & outstation' is keyword here. By modding exhaust to straight-flow/bigger diameter pipe - I'm afraid your town/outstation comfort will suffer (especially for passengers). But.. If you don't mind the noise, then OK. It is really important that you first realise that you are going to give up comfort. I'd recommend you not to mod exhaust only because I think the noisier ride is not worth the small performance gain. But if you MUST do it.. please make sure you got 1 mid-box (it helps cut off the droning noise).

If I rewind back the 5 expensive years I spent on my SEG for driving to work/racing in autocross, I think the best/cheapest mods for this car for acceleration are:
> Drop-in air filter (Cheapest one you can find on Mudah is good enough). In most cases, nothing beats the original stock airbox casing.
> Good quality engine oil (Mobil1 Semi/Full)
> Lighter rims (Smaller is better e.g. 13"~14". Best compromise for looks/handling/acceleration/tyre choices = 15" with Michelin PilotSport3). I spent a lot testing many tyres (Parada Spec-2, BFGoodrich G-Sport, Toyo T1R). Nothing beats PS3 acceleration/grip/wet grip/cornering stability.
> Poly-Urethane (PU) bushings (for suspension arms & mounts). For engine acceleration, try replacing ONLY the front engine mount with a softer PU bushing unit, OR get a OEM replacement mount and fill it up with 3M Window weld (cheaper to do). The response will be very good and ride comfort is maintained. This is an expensive/time consuming option, but worth it if you are going to keep the car for long time.
> Clutch upgrade. Exedy Semi-race is good.

> I won't input on 4AFE vs 4AGE because I do not know if your driving style/needs are "Economy Low-Revving" vs "High-Revving". I can say is.. after transplanting 4AGE 20V, the "High-Revving" all the time did not match my driving style, so I have to live with that. So be careful in this area.

Cheers.

Thank you bro for sharing such useful experience. Just one thing I don't really understand. Mind to explain what is the reason of replacing only front engine mount with softer PU bushing or fill it up with 3M window weld?

What is the effects of this?

Thank you..

 

[S.SIEW]

Thanks for point this out Veloc.

I'll try to explain.
In Poly-Urethane bushings for 'Engine mounts' - the benefit of using these in SEG/or any car.. is that the engine power is transmitted through the drivetrain and onto the wheels instantly, without any energy loss. Most cars use about 4 engine mounts. Replacing front&rear with PU is enough to give you this benefit.

The drawbacks of using PU engine bushings/mounts is that - it will cause very harsh vibration into the interior/cabin. It feels like your whole dashboard is a big vibrating mobile phone. Thats why only race cars use them.

See this rating chart:

|Low harshness/OEM|------------------------|Mid harshness|---------------------------|Extreme/Racing|
( 1 )-------------------------------------------( 3 )-------------------------------------------( 2 )

See the numbers:
( 1 ) This is your standard car engine mount. OEM & made from rubber. Very comfortable but poor at transmitting engine power through. That means, you lose acceleration ability.
( 2 ) This is using PU engine mounts/bushings. Very, very harsh but very, very DIRECT acceleration ability.
( 3 ) This is where I was trying to explain:

> By taking a new OEM rubber bushing unit (front mounting), it currently is at ( 1 ) rating, yes?
> Now, by filling it with liquid PU*, you can raise the firmness of the engine mount to be harder/more solid. But it will never reach the extreme rating like ( 2 ).
*PU in liquid form which will harden overtime (e.g. is 3M window weld silicone sealant). This solution is common for DIY because it is cheap way to do it, rather than going out to buy new mounts with PU, which is more expensive.

> So in conclusion, by just doing this for front engine mount only, the harshness will not be so bad, BUT you gain the ability to transmit the engine power through, thus improving the ACCELERATION ability by a lot.

Hope this explanation helps.

Cheers.

 

[BuroQ]

Hi Clannyboy.

Everyone above speak good honest truth.
Its all money vs. compromise vs. what you want.

Studying your post, it seems that 'town & outstation' is keyword here. By modding exhaust to straight-flow/bigger diameter pipe - I'm afraid your town/outstation comfort will suffer (especially for passengers). But.. If you don't mind the noise, then OK. It is really important that you first realise that you are going to give up comfort. I'd recommend you not to mod exhaust only because I think the noisier ride is not worth the small performance gain. But if you MUST do it.. please make sure you got 1 mid-box (it helps cut off the droning noise).

If I rewind back the 5 expensive years I spent on my SEG for driving to work/racing in autocross, I think the best/cheapest mods for this car for acceleration are:
> Drop-in air filter (Cheapest one you can find on Mudah is good enough). In most cases, nothing beats the original stock airbox casing.
> Good quality engine oil (Mobil1 Semi/Full)
> Lighter rims (Smaller is better e.g. 13"~14". Best compromise for looks/handling/acceleration/tyre choices = 15" with Michelin PilotSport3). I spent a lot testing many tyres (Parada Spec-2, BFGoodrich G-Sport, Toyo T1R). Nothing beats PS3 acceleration/grip/wet grip/cornering stability.
> Poly-Urethane (PU) bushings (for suspension arms & mounts). For engine acceleration, try replacing ONLY the front engine mount with a softer PU bushing unit, OR get a OEM replacement mount and fill it up with 3M Window weld (cheaper to do). The response will be very good and ride comfort is maintained. This is an expensive/time consuming option, but worth it if you are going to keep the car for long time.
> Clutch upgrade. Exedy Semi-race is good.

> I won't input on 4AFE vs 4AGE because I do not know if your driving style/needs are "Economy Low-Revving" vs "High-Revving". I can say is.. after transplanting 4AGE 20V, the "High-Revving" all the time did not match my driving style, so I have to live with that. So be careful in this area.

Cheers.

I'm particularly interested in the PU bushings. How much do you spend on it and where did you purchase it?

Also, I'm guessing from the explanation you provided that with PU bushing it will be able to withstand the punishment of the road conditions and provide better stability, but sacrifices comfort as compared to OEM? (PU on suspension).

By the way danny, I'm using 4AGE 20v Auto (buat malu je haha). I personally feel that it fits my current driving style. I usually drive relaxed either slightly below the limit or slightly above the limit (getting old) in towns and on the highway at times. But if my foot suddenly feels kinda heavy, I know that 4AGE can provide the speed and acceleration that I want.

Not encouraging you or anyone else to do it, but yes my auto 4age can go up to 160km/h (at the moment) on highways if I want to with ease . In town? too many idiots on the road, no point in driving faster than a speeding bullet.

One thing though if you plan to change to 4AGE 20V, be aware of the DIESEL SOUND

 

[S.SIEW]

BuroQ,

With what I have experienced thus far in installing them, I should answer that PU bushings cover two areas.

A. Engine mounting section
> if you mod this to PU, u gain acceleration but.. The vibration transmitted will be very harsh for cabin comfort. This is the biggest cause for harshness. Engine mounting you can choose to forgo for the sake of comfort (i.e. use OEM).

B. Chassis, Suspension n steering
> if you mod any/all these to put, u gain best suspension geometry, handling and stable ride, but NO harshness. If you want to mod pu, do this section. That means, modding these sections will not make your ride harsh, but rather ... comfortable, smoother and firmer.. like Toyota 86 firm!


If you mod the whole thing (A + B), be prepared to pay between RM 1.5k - 2.5k. Notable aftermarket bushing makers include Whiteline, SuperPro, and OE makes like TRD(stopped production).

For pu engine mountings (A),
You have to custom make them at engineering/machine shops. So far, I found a specialist in Cheras/Ampang who make and fit most pu bushing parts. Google up LAN Automotive & Engineering, and click their mudah proniaga link. They do pu at very reasonable prices. Link: PRO Niaga: Lan Automotive & Engineering Work
(They sell mostly for Proton/P2 cars, but can custom make for Jap cars).

For Chassis, suspension n steering (B),
Personally I purchased off SuperPro, at around RM 1.7k for the whole list of parts on SEG AE111. However, this brand does not cover steering rack bushings. This I think have to custom make as well. This is the link for AE111 PU parts. Link: Find SuperPro Parts for My Vehicle

You can seek out any dealer on ZTH. I dealt with this dealer. Link: SP Auto Tuning

Cheers.

 

[Veloc]

BuroQ,

With what I have experienced thus far in installing them, I should answer that PU bushings cover two areas.

A. Engine mounting section
> if you mod this to PU, u gain acceleration but.. The vibration transmitted will be very harsh for cabin comfort. This is the biggest cause for harshness. Engine mounting you can choose to forgo for the sake of comfort (i.e. use OEM).

B. Chassis, Suspension n steering
> if you mod any/all these to put, u gain best suspension geometry, handling and stable ride, but NO harshness. If you want to mod pu, do this section. That means, modding these sections will not make your ride harsh, but rather ... comfortable, smoother and firmer.. like Toyota 86 firm!


If you mod the whole thing (A + B), be prepared to pay between RM 1.5k - 2.5k. Notable aftermarket bushing makers include Whiteline, SuperPro, and OE makes like TRD(stopped production).

For pu engine mountings (A),
You have to custom make them at engineering/machine shops. So far, I found a specialist in Cheras/Ampang who make and fit most pu bushing parts. Google up LAN Automotive & Engineering, and click their mudah proniaga link. They do pu at very reasonable prices. Link: PRO Niaga: Lan Automotive & Engineering Work
(They sell mostly for Proton/P2 cars, but can custom make for Jap cars).

For Chassis, suspension n steering (B),
Personally I purchased off SuperPro, at around RM 1.7k for the whole list of parts on SEG AE111. However, this brand does not cover steering rack bushings. This I think have to custom make as well. This is the link for AE111 PU parts. Link: Find SuperPro Parts for My Vehicle

You can seek out any dealer on ZTH. I dealt with this dealer. Link: SP Auto Tuning

Cheers.

Many thanks for the explanation bro..

 

[IketaniX]

Thank you bro for such valuable info...
m still in headache for the bush issue as they seems easy to wear out...
mayb it cant stand my heavy usage as my SEG is my daily working ride n occasionally need to do some delivery up to 100kg on rough road...

for the filling liquid PU into the OEM engine mount,
is it filling it into the OEM gap on the rubber section?