[WTB] type-R cam + valve spring

[chris2000]

Chris,how about Brian Crower cam?

What about them?

 

[budin99]

Hi Sifus,

I don't want to open new thread. I think it will be okay here. If I used CTR cam, what others part should I change too??? Furthermore, what kind of setup that i need to do when change this CTR cam? I heard that, B16A engine will be more responsive if used B16B piston (conrod used B16A) + CTR Cam. Is this true??? gain more hp with this setup? TQ in advance.

 

[chris2000]

Hi Sifus,

I don't want to open new thread. I think it will be okay here. If I used CTR cam, what others part should I change too??? Furthermore, what kind of setup that i need to do when change this CTR cam? I heard that, B16A engine will be more responsive if used B16B piston (conrod used B16A) + CTR Cam. Is this true??? gain more hp with this setup? TQ in advance.

CTR cams at least CTR/ITR valve springs.

B16B pistons are not such a great combo in B16A block though i have seen them done many times. Compression is way too high for a daily drive and you defenitely need some sort of ecu to tune fuel and ignition.

Your mech must know what he is doing, cause in a B16A block the B16B piston will sit higher than the block and either the rod or pistons have to be modded to fit. And cylinder head also needed to be modded to get them fitted. Not a simple plug and play.

 

[shiroitenshi]

CTR cams at least CTR/ITR valve springs.

B16B pistons are not such a great combo in B16A block though i have seen them done many times. Compression is way too high for a daily drive and you defenitely need some sort of ecu to tune fuel and ignition.

Your mech must know what he is doing, cause in a B16A block the B16B piston will sit higher than the block and either the rod or pistons have to be modded to fit. And cylinder head also needed to be modded to get them fitted. Not a simple plug and play.

Eh? Isn't the common setup be thicker/dual layer? gaskets (if head is milled b4), then the valve reliefs in the piston also need to be milled for valve clearance and the rods need to be shaved on the sides on the piston mounting rod ends (where the wrist pin goes through the rod) to fit B16B pistons? Truly not plug and play setup, but not a truly major work to get them fitted. I think final combustion is still around 11+ there abouts, but dependent on gasket thickness and if the head has been milled before, I think. Also that setup will definitely need tuning, as you said

I don't think combustion chamber need to be modded, but could it be perhaps I might have missed this?

I'm also learning, you see.

Of course, for the cash modding it, I think there's much better ways to gain power, say with a better exhaust system, for example.. or some other part.

 

[chris2000]

Eh? Isn't the common setup be thicker/dual layer? gaskets (if head is milled b4), then the valve reliefs in the piston also need to be milled for valve clearance and the rods need to be shaved on the sides on the piston mounting rod ends (where the wrist pin goes through the rod) to fit B16B pistons? Truly not plug and play setup, but not a truly major work to get them fitted. I think final combustion is still around 11+ there abouts, but dependent on gasket thickness and if the head has been milled before, I think. Also that setup will definitely need tuning, as you said

I don't think combustion chamber need to be modded, but could it be perhaps I might have missed this?

I'm also learning, you see.

Of course, for the cash modding it, I think there's much better ways to gain power, say with a better exhaust system, for example.. or some other part.

OEM metal gasket is already 3 layer. Different mech different style. Some shave the conrods to fit and some shave the B16B piston to fit. So depend on the mech.

The problem is the compression height (pin location) of the B16B piston is about 0.7mm higher than a P30 pistons. When installed on the B16A block, the piston is in fact sitting out of the bore by as much as 0.17mm and this is on a un-milled block. And if you take your car to 9k rpm, there will have some additional rod and bolt strech which brings the piston even more out of block and hitting your cylinder head and say bye bye :shocked: The mech has to do combustion camber work to get this B16B piston to work.

Again on un-mill head and block the compression goes to about 11.6-11.8:1, which is a bit high for daily driving is you ask me. And you will need a good ecu tune to daily drive.

 

[shiroitenshi]

The mech has to do combustion camber work to get this B16B piston to work.

You mean for 9K setup or stock setup? So does that mean it's a necessity for the combustion work, or no?

 

[chris2000]

You mean for 9K setup or stock setup? So does that mean it's a necessity for the combustion work, or no?

It is a must because the piston sit higher than the block. So road use, when there is occassional strech on rods, you engine noise and you will think it is pre-ignition or knocking. And when you take too high rev with that and kiss good bye to it. :shcokedcamo:

 

[shiroitenshi]

Thanks. I'll keep that in mind.