What's d use for VTEC controller...Anyone can put some info?
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I knw but what's d point of ir as the original VTEC point is set at 5.6k rpm?
Are you saying that with installing the Spoon VTEC controller, we can set the VTEC point open at 2.5rpm & the powers come all d way from 2.5k rpm until 8.5k rpm. Is it?
shifting the vtec point to a lower rpm will result in power drop in the higher revv, plus u rnt getting any noticeable pull when the vtec kicks in the lower revv either. i wud push the vtec point up further the revv to get more power in the top end
the VTEC point does indeed can be changed by VARIOUS vtec controller.. or piggyback or stand alone that has the solenoid control thingy (i forgot)
BUT..lowering the point doesn't guarantee u, much power...
it is getting the right setup for your VTEC to kick in and by considering what u have done to your engine that guarantees u a good torque delivery thru out rpm range.
need to dyno run to achieve this. until u get the best setup for your torque and hp.
thats why people re-adjust their vtec point..
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I am using E-Manage. Can I install Spoon VTEC controller together as well?
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I din know that. Thanks for informing...
e-manage blue already has option to ctrl one solenoid. that is to say the VTEC point.
but if u insist on installing the spoon VTEC controller..from my opinion..it is good. it'll be much easier for you to set any VTEC point that u prefer instantaneously even though it looks a bit redundant due to the fact that you're already equipped with a piggyback that has the ability to control the solenoid.
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Ya xtremeleo. You are right as my foreman told me this as well. He said thos VTEC controller is for those VTEC engines that has heavy mod & need to set their VTEC point earlier or later...
even with a highly moded engine, the vtec point cant be set too low sir, the most is setting it 500rpm lower then the original point or else u'll suffer at the higher revv as the air flow isnt built up sufficiently before the vtec is engaged. i think its better to prep the engine for a vteckiller cam jer, lagi best..
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VTEC is to allow good power at high and low RPM. It requires certain pressure before engaging. You can cheat by using pressure sensor bypass, but vtec won't engage smoothly if set too low, nor would it be good for the system.
Afaik, the spoon vtec controller came out when engine management was very expensive, thus it's a less expensive method to change vtec crossover.
I think most management have this, so the point of installing a vtec controller is not practical, unless that's your final mod, and you don't plan on doing anything on the engine anymore, just daily driving it and changing the vtec point earlier or later, depending on how you want to drive.
Most cars cannot engage vtec below 4.5k, some not even below 5krpm due to mapping, oil pressure and other factors.
I ran a vtec window of 5400-6000 on my old b16a using hondata, low throttle vtec engage 6k, and full throttle vtec at 5.4k. Full throttle crossover decided by doing low and high cam runs on dyno. Should be 5.5, but set earlier to still get that vtec kick due to that torque dip, or not it become smooth, and the only way you know the vtec engaged is through the exhaust sound.
Some people think if vtec makes the car go faster, then it should make it better on the low end. There's a reason why it's called a hi cam and low cam, heh. Too long to explain about cam duration, overlap & lift. Just read about them and you'd understand how 1.6l can make 200ps@11k.(spoon) and how a normal b16a can get 170ps @ 7.8k
Toda killers would kill low end power and make the car unsuitable for daily driving. The advantage is that it converts the rocker system to roller rockers so can run really aggressive cams without wearing the rocker arms and timing belt too fast. You won't see killer cams coming out for the K20A_R, because they're already on rollers.
Low end power is important on daily driven or street cars, but VTEC high cam is not the way to get them. I'd say to get better low end power, need to.
a) get the engine tuned, even if it's just a b18c with light mods, and tell the tuner you want the low end power.
b) don't go running 2.5 inches exhaust piping on honda 1.6/1.8
c) don't go bumping fuel press to 4bars just because a lot of tuners do it before tuning 18c.
d) insert more here. :-)
Got to realize that no matter what we do, we can't beat a short rod engine's torque at 1-4k, unless we go higher displacement/compression.
Afaik, the spoon vtec controller came out when engine management was very expensive, thus it's a less expensive method to change vtec crossover.
I think most management have this, so the point of installing a vtec controller is not practical, unless that's your final mod, and you don't plan on doing anything on the engine anymore, just daily driving it and changing the vtec point earlier or later, depending on how you want to drive.
Most cars cannot engage vtec below 4.5k, some not even below 5krpm due to mapping, oil pressure and other factors.
I ran a vtec window of 5400-6000 on my old b16a using hondata, low throttle vtec engage 6k, and full throttle vtec at 5.4k. Full throttle crossover decided by doing low and high cam runs on dyno. Should be 5.5, but set earlier to still get that vtec kick due to that torque dip, or not it become smooth, and the only way you know the vtec engaged is through the exhaust sound.
Some people think if vtec makes the car go faster, then it should make it better on the low end. There's a reason why it's called a hi cam and low cam, heh. Too long to explain about cam duration, overlap & lift. Just read about them and you'd understand how 1.6l can make 200ps@11k.(spoon) and how a normal b16a can get 170ps @ 7.8k
Toda killers would kill low end power and make the car unsuitable for daily driving. The advantage is that it converts the rocker system to roller rockers so can run really aggressive cams without wearing the rocker arms and timing belt too fast. You won't see killer cams coming out for the K20A_R, because they're already on rollers.
Low end power is important on daily driven or street cars, but VTEC high cam is not the way to get them. I'd say to get better low end power, need to.
a) get the engine tuned, even if it's just a b18c with light mods, and tell the tuner you want the low end power.
b) don't go running 2.5 inches exhaust piping on honda 1.6/1.8
c) don't go bumping fuel press to 4bars just because a lot of tuners do it before tuning 18c.
d) insert more here. :-)
Got to realize that no matter what we do, we can't beat a short rod engine's torque at 1-4k, unless we go higher displacement/compression.
i guess you can use VTEC controllers to set vtec crossover point lower when u feel a lack of power just before vtec and a sudden push when vtec hits, or to set the vtec crossover point higher when there's good pull just before vtec and the car suddenly feels lagging when you hit vtec but pulls better later. If the car's stock and uses stock cams then no need to mess with the vtec point... but if you put type R cams into a b16a or gsr b18c then you can shift the vtec point to 5500rpm for smoother vtec transition...
If you have a b20vtec, u usually need a lower vtec crossover point because ur redline is safe upto 7500rpm only... depends on ur gear ratios
If you have a b20vtec, u usually need a lower vtec crossover point because ur redline is safe upto 7500rpm only... depends on ur gear ratios
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Depending on what engine. Usually after IHE mods, the top 6-8K rpm (9K if B18CR) is a little lean. (not dangerously lean, just not as rich for good power.)
If you have FPR, with basic I/H/E mods.
I prefer to set 3.3-3.4bar for B16A/Bs, and 3.7-3.8bar for B18Cs running the standard unchipped ECU. The fuel pressure readings I'm using are non-vacuum referenced, means you read them with vac hose on FPR off, that's why they're higher than what you usually see on your car, that's how I set FPR pressures anyway.
Some people usually run 4 bars or more, but from my experience, it's too rich.
If you have chipped ECU, then retain the FPR at stock pressure, they're usually mapped for the stock pressure. I wouldn't put an aftermarket FPR on a car running chipped ECU, you could, but the original one does the same job already.
Don't forget to set your ignition timing with the diagnostic jumper shorted (like you would do when checking an error code) This is important since if the timing is off, the FPR adjustment won't do much. If you have a dial back timing light, can +1 or -1 ignition when on dyno... and see the difference :) I would say more, but start with small changes, eh? :P
With this setup, you can go dyno. The baseline hp will be quite good :). Off course, this only improves full-throttle power seen on the dyno, you'd still have very low power on the 1.6L in real life at 1-4K rpms. The 1.8 doesn't suffer as bad though, but the 'vtec just kicked in yo' feel will be quite good. haha.
That's the limitation of FPR adjustments, so don't expect too much like you would for complete ECU management solutions. FPR adjustment is one of the basics you can do on a lightly modded B-series.
For information, although this is posted in my other old posts.
The Stock Honda FPRs
Standard B16A 2.5bar@800rpm, 3 bar no-vacuum
Standard B18C 3 Bar@800-900rpm, 3.5 bar no-vacuum
Standard H22A 2bar@800rpm, 2.5bar, no-vacuum
So actually can swap different honda FPRs for different pressure requirements without going aftermarket, but aftermarket can set the points in between. The choice is yours.
If you have FPR, with basic I/H/E mods.
I prefer to set 3.3-3.4bar for B16A/Bs, and 3.7-3.8bar for B18Cs running the standard unchipped ECU. The fuel pressure readings I'm using are non-vacuum referenced, means you read them with vac hose on FPR off, that's why they're higher than what you usually see on your car, that's how I set FPR pressures anyway.
Some people usually run 4 bars or more, but from my experience, it's too rich.
If you have chipped ECU, then retain the FPR at stock pressure, they're usually mapped for the stock pressure. I wouldn't put an aftermarket FPR on a car running chipped ECU, you could, but the original one does the same job already.
Don't forget to set your ignition timing with the diagnostic jumper shorted (like you would do when checking an error code) This is important since if the timing is off, the FPR adjustment won't do much. If you have a dial back timing light, can +1 or -1 ignition when on dyno... and see the difference :) I would say more, but start with small changes, eh? :P
With this setup, you can go dyno. The baseline hp will be quite good :). Off course, this only improves full-throttle power seen on the dyno, you'd still have very low power on the 1.6L in real life at 1-4K rpms. The 1.8 doesn't suffer as bad though, but the 'vtec just kicked in yo' feel will be quite good. haha.
That's the limitation of FPR adjustments, so don't expect too much like you would for complete ECU management solutions. FPR adjustment is one of the basics you can do on a lightly modded B-series.
For information, although this is posted in my other old posts.
The Stock Honda FPRs
Standard B16A 2.5bar@800rpm, 3 bar no-vacuum
Standard B18C 3 Bar@800-900rpm, 3.5 bar no-vacuum
Standard H22A 2bar@800rpm, 2.5bar, no-vacuum
So actually can swap different honda FPRs for different pressure requirements without going aftermarket, but aftermarket can set the points in between. The choice is yours.
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to correctly set vtec engagement point must do it on dyno....not butt dyno but the actual dyno machine....if u hv a vtec controller n nothing else (no Hondata, emanage, VAFC, etc.), u can do this (on dyno):
1. set vtec point at controller to high rpm, say 7000rpm
2. do 1 dyno run n plot
3. check on the plot the point wher the power start to drop
4. set yr vtec point 200rpm below that point
...but then again, if yr engine is stock, most probably this point will be about the same as the stock setting anyway, so not really a necessary thing to do on stock engine...
..and if u hv some mod on the engine and hv one of those tuning equipment (Hondata, emanage, VAFC, etc.), u don't need a separate vtec controller...
...i'm just saying, if u want to do sumthin', do it right...don't set the vtec point based on best butt feels, yr uncle said so, etc....
1. set vtec point at controller to high rpm, say 7000rpm
2. do 1 dyno run n plot
3. check on the plot the point wher the power start to drop
4. set yr vtec point 200rpm below that point
...but then again, if yr engine is stock, most probably this point will be about the same as the stock setting anyway, so not really a necessary thing to do on stock engine...
..and if u hv some mod on the engine and hv one of those tuning equipment (Hondata, emanage, VAFC, etc.), u don't need a separate vtec controller...
...i'm just saying, if u want to do sumthin', do it right...don't set the vtec point based on best butt feels, yr uncle said so, etc....
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