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Spring Rate & Damping
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<blockquote data-quote="TitanRev" data-source="post: 1064633431" data-attributes="member: 10047"><p>All sifu, I will just try to explain a little bit to Marv about the damping and spring rate so don't shoot me la ok..I also noob....</p><p></p><p>Marv, for you information. definition of Spring rate means "How much weight is required to deflect/compress the spring an inch. the unit that is used is either in kg/mm or lb/in. So if you see a spring that has a rating of 8kg/mm vs another 1 with 6kg/mm. The 8Kg/mm will be a stiffer spring. different rating springs has it's own oscillation pattern (a softer spring will have a bigger, longer and wavy pattern while a stiffer spring will have a fast, narrow pattern). Imagine a pogo stick. It only has a spring when you apply a compressing force to the spring. It always wanted to react the opposite direction and this force will keep going and going (the oscillation pattern). </p><p></p><p>Then to damping. The main function of the damper is to control the oscillation motion of the spring (to keep it within control). The main thing to damping is the compression and rebound control. The damper will absorb shocks that will increase the oscillation motion of the spring which would send the spring bouncing out of control this is consider external force (road bumps, pot hole..etc) When you fiddle around with the damping setting. You are actually changing the wavelengths of the oscillation movement of the spring. With a hard damper setting, you will need more energy (kinetic energy) to move the piston inside as you are limiting the flow of the hydraulic fluid of the damper. With a softer damping, the damper required less kinetic energy to move the piston. This makes your ride able to absorb more of the bumps and holes and still able to control the spring's oscillation movement. On track, you need a harder damping setting because you want to limit the movement of the spring and damper to a more linear state quicker turn in response as track surface are smooth you do not need to worry about hitting a bump or holes that would upset the car's handling and also to control the load transfer during braking and accelerating. On daily road, you need to have more damping so that you car can stay planted on the floor even you run over holes or bumps, you do not want you car to jump or hop as this makes you lost traction and also to absorb the sudden external force. </p><p></p><p>Above is my understanding and 2 cents. Please correct me if I'm wrong...</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="TitanRev, post: 1064633431, member: 10047"] All sifu, I will just try to explain a little bit to Marv about the damping and spring rate so don't shoot me la ok..I also noob.... Marv, for you information. definition of Spring rate means "How much weight is required to deflect/compress the spring an inch. the unit that is used is either in kg/mm or lb/in. So if you see a spring that has a rating of 8kg/mm vs another 1 with 6kg/mm. The 8Kg/mm will be a stiffer spring. different rating springs has it's own oscillation pattern (a softer spring will have a bigger, longer and wavy pattern while a stiffer spring will have a fast, narrow pattern). Imagine a pogo stick. It only has a spring when you apply a compressing force to the spring. It always wanted to react the opposite direction and this force will keep going and going (the oscillation pattern). Then to damping. The main function of the damper is to control the oscillation motion of the spring (to keep it within control). The main thing to damping is the compression and rebound control. The damper will absorb shocks that will increase the oscillation motion of the spring which would send the spring bouncing out of control this is consider external force (road bumps, pot hole..etc) When you fiddle around with the damping setting. You are actually changing the wavelengths of the oscillation movement of the spring. With a hard damper setting, you will need more energy (kinetic energy) to move the piston inside as you are limiting the flow of the hydraulic fluid of the damper. With a softer damping, the damper required less kinetic energy to move the piston. This makes your ride able to absorb more of the bumps and holes and still able to control the spring's oscillation movement. On track, you need a harder damping setting because you want to limit the movement of the spring and damper to a more linear state quicker turn in response as track surface are smooth you do not need to worry about hitting a bump or holes that would upset the car's handling and also to control the load transfer during braking and accelerating. On daily road, you need to have more damping so that you car can stay planted on the floor even you run over holes or bumps, you do not want you car to jump or hop as this makes you lost traction and also to absorb the sudden external force. Above is my understanding and 2 cents. Please correct me if I'm wrong... [/QUOTE]
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