SEG Chassis Mod

[0501024]

Hi guys, this time I got questions on the SEG chassis

Firstly, I have a front two point strut and front anti roll bar installed.

i) Is it better to change to 3-point? Whats the difference?
ii) What is undercarriage bar for?
iii) Does a REAR anti roll bar help in stability and corners? I have spoken to a few friends who drive civics and they recommend to ask in TOyota forums because the civic chassis is different or something...

I'm using the car for normal daily driving and occasionally "spirited" drives at twisty roads ;)

Thats why, I'm only looking to install the necessary stuff (low budget maa :P)

Cheers.

 

[AE101-Wong]

thicker anti roll bars can help to reduce ur car body roll, this is my own self experience with it, last time using stock 16mm ARB not that stable compared with 19mm TRD 1..
under carriage bar for my own opinion is for strengthen ur front lower arm, for lesser bush squeezing n reduce free play..
lastly the engine room bar, 3 point for lesser engine room squeeze when u traveling hill roads that's all..

all above are my own experience and opinion, any wrong info, juz don shoot me ya~! haha!

 

[0501024]

wont shoot you la bro i appreciate your feedback ;)

so engine room bar 2point to 3 point is basically very little difference?

and also, would you recommend installing a rear ARB or a 4point under? as in, which do you think is more necessary coz u know la my car only street use ;p

 

[muzhaffar]

i think if you want more rigidity, go to 4 point undercarriage..
if you want less roll especially during cornering, go for thicker ARB
or if you can find the ARB with shorter lever arm, it will also increase the torsion inside the ARB hence increase the stiffness of the ARB and as the result, reduce the roll..
is it right sifu? just my opinion..
and one more thing, is it will reduce the comfort for the passenger?
and if use thicker ARB with stock suspension(high ground clearence and high allowable suspension deflection), does it give advantage or disadvantage during hard cornering if we change the rear ARB alone with stock suspension and ARB in front?

 

[ajnone]

Thicker ARB is just not suitable for stock suspension.
If you need thicker ARB then u need at least upgrade ur suspension.
Just my experience n opinion.

 

[nappx]

i don't know this explaination help or not..
TRD 3 POINT BAR, CUSCO 4 POINT BAR & 10K RATE SPRING (F&R) WITH HIGH-LOW SUSPENSION (SHORT STROKE)

CONCLUSION- NO NEED ARB..HANDLING SUPERB ALREADY...BUT WITHOUT 4 POINT UNBRACE & CHANGE THE TYPE OF ABSORBER TO TEIN HR TYPE WITH STIFF SPRING RATE..IT SUCK..

 

[ahaw]

so one must briefly tell the previously mod done to the chassis before tell the experience/effects. theory wise thicker arb does help in cornering. its wiser to set a target cuz diff people hav diff requirements, so we all can learn smthg frm d discussion. unless there od another thread disscsg bout this topic.

 

[normality78]

i don't know this explaination help or not..
TRD 3 POINT BAR, CUSCO 4 POINT BAR & 10K RATE SPRING (F&R) WITH HIGH-LOW SUSPENSION (SHORT STROKE)

CONCLUSION- NO NEED ARB..HANDLING SUPERB ALREADY...BUT WITHOUT 4 POINT UNBRACE & CHANGE THE TYPE OF ABSORBER TO TEIN HR TYPE WITH STIFF SPRING RATE..IT SUCK..

10k spring rate with short stroke absorber will make u vomit like nobody. heheheheh

 

[n0th1n]

my opinion,
if budget allows, equipped your car with the maximum stuff.
i know somebody. last time argued with me, "no need to put ARB both front & rear".
last2 he put the ARB, after claimed the ARB he bought at cheap price. then "bagus lah, improves alot lah".
morale of the story: try yourself first, then r&d properly, then only confidently announce your result to the world.

 

[ahaw]

to sifu's, does the stdrd bzr trueno front a.r.b thickness same as aftermarket item such as trd, U. Racing etc?

 

[normality78]

my personal opinion is that ARB its a must. But thn must also see how big. Doesnt means biggest the better, front too big, understeer kao, rear too big, can snap easily. I also kind of agree no harm having more braces but 1 must understand that when you re-inforce X section, the force will go to somewhere else. So the next weakest link will suffer.

I measured before, SS stock front arb seems like 1-2mm smaller then TRD. Not sure for the macpherson bzr stock arb though. But rear trd compare with our local stock arb, much more bigger. Im not sure this, but i heard ori BZR rear ARB in japan is also 1-2mm smaller then trd unit

 

[0501024]

ahaw : the mods done to my car is only

i) transplant 4age
ii) front cusco hi/lo adjs, rear tein ha hi/lo adjs
iii) engine room bar
iv) front ARB. (i think its stock)

So with adjustable suspension and front ARB, i can feel the chassis is quite stiff, just nice for my style. but sometimes when taking long corners can feel the back like going to slide out.

Will a rear ARB help? Or does the sifu's here recommend trial and error?

Cheers

UPDATE : I asked a friend who distributes UR bars and he recommends all old cars to actually go for the whole package because cars like ours are old therefore due to wear and tear the chassis would have been weakened over the years... Dont know if he is trying to make a quick sale...

 

[normality78]

whahahaha... what a salesman. bro, whole set bars easily cost you thousand.

tyres, alignment and suspension hardness do play apart on your mentioned problem. By the way, I thought Tein HA all high low soft hard? High low only if im not wrong is Tein HR

 

[0501024]

normality : hmmm it could possibly be tein HR coz im not very sure. i know its H"x" lol ...

mr jdm king aka ivan got source for rear ARB? ^_^

 

[jack84]

Hi guys, this time I got questions on the SEG chassis

Firstly, I have a front two point strut and front anti roll bar installed.

i) Is it better to change to 3-point? Whats the difference?
ii) What is undercarriage bar for?
iii) Does a REAR anti roll bar help in stability and corners? I have spoken to a few friends who drive civics and they recommend to ask in TOyota forums because the civic chassis is different or something...

I'm using the car for normal daily driving and occasionally "spirited" drives at twisty roads ;)

Thats why, I'm only looking to install the necessary stuff (low budget maa :P)

Cheers.

From my experience, u can try to install fender bar 1st...its hlp a lot during the cornering ...
then only go for thicker anti roll bar..

 

[lkeong88]

Fender bars help alot on those long sweeping turn at the north south highways. If your suspension too hard and no strengthening on chassis, your chassis may go out of shape or tear. And making certain part too stiff is bad because the other weaker points will bear the load. Some models of civic manage to tear their subframe due to rear bars

 

[0501024]

thanks all sifu for replying !

have made up my mind to put in a rear strut + ARB first to experiment...

but keep the discussion going for the benefit of others !!

 

[FGT]

thanks all sifu for replying !

have made up my mind to put in a rear strut + ARB first to experiment...

but keep the discussion going for the benefit of others !!

hey bro..pls update here on your rear strut when installed ya.. thanks

 

[meg_omen]

not to promote, even though UR is using my car pics for AE111 fender and 3pt upper front.
yes it's best with to experince them coz a lot of factor contribute to handling ie. tire grip, camber degree etc.
first i've done...3pt front upper + fender + 2pt rear mid (AE110 cannot use the 2pt top)...
then after increase the power abit plus change from GAB to TITAN...add 19mm rear ARB...
then after convert to manual and increase spring rate of the TITAN... add CUSCO 2pt lower bar...

overall best coz not to rigid...
at least i don't have to change to TRD ARB set...:proud:

 

[nappx]

ha ha ekekeke