My New EG got problem

[ahbong81]

Hi guys, just bought my EG last Friday. According to the mechanic, the D15B engine has a problem that is the key pin at the shaft has starts to wear off. I don't really know how to discribe. it is not the drive shaft but the shaft connected to the engine block inside the engine. we can see the end of the shaft clearly if u take out the engine. Most vtech engine has this kind of problem. and he advice me to change engine when i can afford. Just wanna double check with you all if this is true? what would be the best solution. Pls advice me . thanks

 

[shiroitenshi]

I assume this is the section you meant.

dunno what you mean by "the key pin at the shaft has starts to wear off" .. if it's the pin to the crank pulley, then can replace what?

If it's the the crankshaft notch... I don't think it's too much of an issue. Provided the crank is torqued properly, and with the correct timing (provided there's not too much play in the key notch), the loose key shouldn't be an issue. But when if it ever comes loose and give more play than it should (the notch, that is) bye bye engine. Note that it's highly unlikely if you torque it properly and DON'T drive the car like you stole it. You could spot weld the key.. but it would make it difficult to dismantle the engine later on. Not to mention that's it's located where a spot welder might have problems accessing it.

If you wish to extend your time with the D, spot welding the notch then renotching it is a possibility... but considering the workmanship charges.. might not be worth it at all.

But I disagee with your mechanic about most vtec engines have this symptom... it's more like... most abused engines that got assembled improperly after disassembly usually show this symptom. How many mechanics you know that uses a torque wrench and thread lock when installing crank pulleys?

Anyway.. you could shop around for a D15/D16 engine that people toss away when doing B16A conversion.. try nego for a cheap price, because they won't have any use for them, and you'd be doing a favour by paying them just a little extra over what a chopshop might give them for it. You missed mine, since I sold it off for a paltry RM500 including dashboard and the wiring... then again.. my engine wasn't in the pink of health.. so consider it not a good choice for you.

 

[ahbong81]

thanks bro. that is the correct section. If notch is the place to place the key, then my problem is the notch has seems wear off ("eaten up"). because it was earlier found that there was no key at all while the mechanic change the timing belt. Then he place a key there for me and say that the notch is not fit for the key much long. Are you sure by weld it together with the key is a better solution? to chage the whole shaft is about rm600-700. at the moment $$ is a problem.

 

[shiroitenshi]

Not better solution, just one of the possible solutions that might possibly be cheaper, but has drawbacks as I mentioned earlier.

The fact is that your engine was running without the key without problems right? As I said.. torqued and 'timed' well, you can run the crank pulley without the pin. It's only to make it easier when setting the crank to TDC without having do do a visual through bottom of the engine block/from the top of the block.

The whole shaft is the crankshaft. Changing is the 'better' solution, but ask the price for a complete D series engine (depending on how hard you look, it would include A/C compressor, wiring harness and such) and you'd find it be 1.5K and below if you get from those who did the B-series conversion..

Now you tell me if it's worth to pay RM600-700 for just the crankshaft alone? And better check if that's the only thing you need, and how much exactly you're paying for workmanship.

Anyway.. be prepared for more expenses on the way. Oil leakages are going to be a problem soon, since the seals are probably wearing out as well. (likely on a local spec EG with the original engine)

If I were you.. save money now, fix it up the cheapest way possible, live with it until you get some money for engine swap (be it the D-series/LS-VTEC/or etc depending on your budget)

also budget about 1-2K for various small things like gaskets, seals and stuff when converting... with the engine out, the mech won't charge you extra to change them. If you do it now, you're getting charged for the workmanship of taking out and disassembling the engine.

Anyway.. remember that buying anything second-hand requires work, and that should be budgeted beforehand or you might run into problems.

If you're pinched.. do like me.. learn to DIY... certain cost like workmanship can be avoided for other things.

Anyway, if you're looking for EG parts that you can't seem to find over in sarawak, you can ask me.

I'm planning to do mail-order services soon, but currently still organising the stocks.

 

[ahbong81]

thanks shiro. i think the best solution for now is to drive safely and save money first. If u plan to do some mail order services, i'll support yu provided your stuff is cheap and reliable. once again, thanks for your infos and advices.

 

[shiroitenshi]

allright.. good luck to you. hope your problem is resolved.

 

[hattech-v]

i think change the engine is a better choice...
pm me if u looking for hafkat... :)