HELP! Damaged wire inside transmission

KrisMas

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Need urgent advice/recommendation.

Some details:

Car: Chery Eastar 2.0
Year Made: 2008
Age of car: 5 yrs
Mileage: 120 000 km
Transmission: PSA DP0
ATF: Elf Renaultmatic D3 Syn

I was doing some maintenance/cleaning of the transmission hydraulic block (valve body) the other day and noticed that one of the wire going to the modulation solenoid is damaged. Anybody know any fix without requiring to replace the whole set of wire harness? I did some research (google) and found that there's a type of heat shrink that's high heat and chemical resistant. Is it possible (or advisable) that I cut the wire, slide the heat shrink tube in, solder then heat shrink that section? And if it's do-able, anybody know where I can find the high temp chem resistant heat shrink?

https://www.zerotohundred.com/forums/attachments/547326.vB

https://www.zerotohundred.com/forums/attachments/547327.vB


TIA
 
heat shrink cannot be used for such application, as it would disintegrate under prolong heat.

I would suggest your to apply hi-temp silicone paste to the damaged wire. The paste is commonly used to make engine head gasket. This paste is sold at hardwar store. BTW, the paste is stable and inert once it is hardened.
 
heat shrink cannot be used for such application, as it would disintegrate under prolong heat.

I would suggest your to apply hi-temp silicone paste to the damaged wire. The paste is commonly used to make engine head gasket. This paste is sold at hardwar store. BTW, the paste is stable and inert once it is hardened.
Any recommendation on which one? I've gone over Permatex website and there's a lot of different ones for different application. Any particular one that I should use (that works best)?
 
heat shrink cannot be used for such application, as it would disintegrate under prolong heat.

I would suggest your to apply hi-temp silicone paste to the damaged wire. The paste is commonly used to make engine head gasket. This paste is sold at hardwar store. BTW, the paste is stable and inert once it is hardened.

Will it stick? because most of the time when I remove the valve cover it comes off easily. It is usually held in place because clamped in between.
 
not recommended lh.if its dislodge then other prob might happen.
since its a dpo gb that tiny thing can cause wonder of a problem.
any chance replacing it end to end or end to a nother dry end?
 
I personally would just use wire tape and wrap that part, cover it with wire tubing and insulate the wire from further exposure to the elements
 
not recommended lh.if its dislodge then other prob might happen.
since its a dpo gb that tiny thing can cause wonder of a problem.
any chance replacing it end to end or end to a nother dry end?
GREAT IDEA. Will take note of this. Will be opening the thing again and try to remove the whole harness and check whether that's possible. Thanks. But....errr....have to remove the wire then shop around for the identical one right?

I personally would just use wire tape and wrap that part, cover it with wire tubing and insulate the wire from further exposure to the elements
Any idea what tape and which tubing could withstand the constant exposure to the working temperature and ATF (chem)? Some specifics would be nice so that I can hunt for them....
 
Oh wait - this is in the ATF oil sump itself?
 
ohh.. the wire somehow frayed? Or was it originally like that from the manufacturer? normal heat shrink won't be able to take the oil and heat without breaking apart eventually. I'm thinking you might need to go to a specialized store to buy the heat shrink you're referring to. I'd personally prefer your way of doing it too. Alternatively I'd consider getting those wire clamps/crimps and just crimp them together and just monitor.

Because that section is so oily and probably engineered to some extent to withstand the oily environment, I'm just worried messing with it might just make the matter worse. Perhaps the best solution now is just to leave it alone?
 
the heat shrink thing can be bought at epectronic shop.
i used it frequently for wiring job as its much more tidy compared to wiring tape.
however,the thing is not suitable for immersed applocation.
the thin nature of d3 syn fluid does not help either.
there is no guarantee its going to be 100% fluid proof.

anyway,if i am in your shoe i will still cut the wire,slide on the heat shrink cover,reconnect the wire and shrink
the wrap.
make sure when u reinstall back,there are no wire being pinch by any component.
 
KrisMas, just wondering how is the eastar 2.0? thinking of getting one though as my kids are growing up.
2nd value kinda affordable now, any tips?
 
Because that section is so oily and probably engineered to some extent to withstand the oily environment, I'm just worried messing with it might just make the matter worse. Perhaps the best solution now is just to leave it alone?
The thing is....i've been having 'gear slip', irratic and harsh gear change, transmission going into limp mode, etc. And after temporarily wrapping the wire with some silicone self amalgamating tape which i have in my possession, all is back to normal and no more problems. This damaged wire might have been the cause so i don't think leaving it alone would be an option. Thanks for the advice anyway.
anyway,if i am in your shoe i will still cut the wire,slide on the heat shrink cover,reconnect the wire and shrink
the wrap.
I think, firsr option, I'm gonna try to temove the whole harness and replace that particular wire end-to-end. If that's not possible then next option would be to splice the wire and find something suitable to insulate it. If I cant find it (suitable insulation), looks like the whole harness got to go.
 
I think, firsr option, I'm gonna try to temove the whole harness and replace that particular wire end-to-end. If that's not possible then next option would be to splice the wire and find something suitable to insulate it. If I cant find it (suitable insulation), looks like the whole harness got to go.

Where normally you get your spare parts from?
 
Where normally you get your spare parts from?
Normally I bought frm this one shop in Jinjang call YS Auto...he sells parts for Eastar, Tiggo and Transcom. Price is quite reasonable and cheaper than SC. But if the price not much difference frm SCHQ, i just go to Glenmarie cuz sometimes doesn't justify the travel cost (petrol, toll, etc.) frm shah alam to jinjang....
 
Normally I bought frm this one shop in Jinjang call YS Auto...he sells parts for Eastar, Tiggo and Transcom. Price is quite reasonable and cheaper than SC. But if the price not much difference frm SCHQ, i just go to Glenmarie cuz sometimes doesn't justify the travel cost (petrol, toll, etc.) frm shah alam to jinjang....

If you are from Shah Alam, try the shop in Subang SS15. I used to buy from the shop in Jalan Segambut, but this shop give same price, and is nearer. I will dig up the contact for you...:driver:
 
If you are from Shah Alam, try the shop in Subang SS15. I used to buy from the shop in Jalan Segambut, but this shop give same price, and is nearer. I will dig up the contact for you...:driver:
Appreciate that very much bro. Good to have other options as Jinjang is just quite a distance away and SCHQ's price is sometimes...well...you know la....hihihi....
 
Appreciate that very much bro. Good to have other options as Jinjang is just quite a distance away and SCHQ's price is sometimes...well...you know la....hihihi....
Got it....
Huan Leong Auto Parts
11, Jalan SS15/4E
47500 Subang Jaya
Tel: 03-5631 5975 / 5632 5975
 

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