finally, it blown

[phat7]

the hole you labelled is not ignition. its the oil route connected to the oil metering pump (in the fd at least. generally if you you finger nail can catch on the mating surface then its time for new housings. do you premix 2t oil with petrol? its a good idea to start with the new engine. good luck with your rebuild.

 

[Lennon]

Dev, thats ignition indeed.... RX8 oil metering hole is about 10 to 11 o'clock (top position....

 

[theseira]

You're right Dev........but what the hell happened in there. Those apex seals bent and broken. Housings are gone. CSL.....you might wanna think about maybe dropping in a 13 REW from a late model FD. That way you'll have the power you need plus you won't have to drive the tits of the engine and you'll be the first SE3P owner with an FD engine in KL.:_:

 

[LoudTE]

To the good folks at the RE club & csl,

I usually just lurk, but I feel like posting this time.

Based on my experience (started with 12A, 13B, then 20B), rotary engines are actually very reliable, but you must have the right tuning:

1) Air fuel is the key for this engine as we cannot afford a knock(unlike a piston engine)
-always run slightly richer
-must get an accurate a/f meter to monitor
-extra injector(s) if you are boosting

2) Rebuild
-Housings must be checked for appropriate thickness
-I was with Mazda Comp (Mazda Competition)'s racer program when I was overseas, so I had access to very valuable info and race parts, try to find out if you can join them.

3) Maintenance
-I mix motorbike 2T oil in the ratio of 1:200 when filling up to a full tank of gas for street driving
-and a ratio of 1:100 when racing on track.

The RE engine has a much better volumetric efficiency compared to piston engines, it is indeed a wonderful powerhouse to have. Too bad too many people have no idea about how to service the engine.

For example, due to harmonics, when disassembling the rotary engine, you must remove the engine bolts in SPECIFIC orders, or the housings will not be reusable.

Do not believe in all those so-called "experts" that experiment with your money, knowledge is power:

I suggest you visit:

Racing Beat: http://www.racingbeat.com

Mazda Competition: http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/FaqContact?storeId=10001

Opinions expressed are my own, based on my personal experiece. Your mileage may vary.

Last but not least, good luck!

Cheers :)

 

[phat7]

lennon - thanks for clearing that up. its the same as the fd then. but the ignition bung for leading and trailing are different sizes?

 

[phat7]

LoudTE - wow dude excellent writeup. You've got wealth of information for us RE fellows. We should arrange to meet sometimes. Please do jump in and contribute more.

 

[phat7]

LoudTE - wow dude excellent writeup. You've got wealth of information for us RE fellows. We should arrange to meet sometimes. Please do jump in and contribute more.

 

[Lennon]

lennon - thanks for clearing that up. its the same as the fd then. but the ignition bung for leading and trailing are different sizes?

How's FD's than?? Both the same??

 

[Lennon]

To the good folks at the RE club & csl,

I usually just lurk, but I feel like posting this time.

Based on my experience (started with 12A, 13B, then 20B), rotary engines are actually very reliable, but you must have the right tuning:

1) Air fuel is the key for this engine as we cannot afford a knock(unlike a piston engine)
-always run slightly richer
-must get an accurate a/f meter to monitor
-extra injector(s) if you are boosting

2) Rebuild
-Housings must be checked for appropriate thickness
-I was with Mazda Comp (Mazda Competition)'s racer program when I was overseas, so I had access to very valuable info and race parts, try to find out if you can join them.

3) Maintenance
-I mix motorbike 2T oil in the ratio of 1:200 when filling up to a full tank of gas for street driving
-and a ratio of 1:100 when racing on track.

The RE engine has a much better volumetric efficiency compared to piston engines, it is indeed a wonderful powerhouse to have. Too bad too many people have no idea about how to service the engine.

For example, due to harmonics, when disassembling the rotary engine, you must remove the engine bolts in SPECIFIC orders, or the housings will not be reusable.

Do not believe in all those so-called "experts" that experiment with your money, knowledge is power:

I suggest you visit:

Racing Beat: http://www.racingbeat.com

Mazda Competition: http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/FaqContact?storeId=10001

Opinions expressed are my own, based on my personal experiece. Your mileage may vary.

Last but not least, good luck!

Cheers :)

Sounds like you're in Racing Beat b4.....

 

[phat7]

to reconfirm. the smaller ignition bung is for the wasted spark commonly known as trailling spark. soory guys i think i should refrain from writting until i at least have me morning coffee. ;)

 

[csl]

To the good folks at the RE club & csl,

I usually just lurk, but I feel like posting this time.

Based on my experience (started with 12A, 13B, then 20B), rotary engines are actually very reliable, but you must have the right tuning:

1) Air fuel is the key for this engine as we cannot afford a knock(unlike a piston engine)
-always run slightly richer
-must get an accurate a/f meter to monitor
-extra injector(s) if you are boosting

2) Rebuild
-Housings must be checked for appropriate thickness
-I was with Mazda Comp (Mazda Competition)'s racer program when I was overseas, so I had access to very valuable info and race parts, try to find out if you can join them.

3) Maintenance
-I mix motorbike 2T oil in the ratio of 1:200 when filling up to a full tank of gas for street driving
-and a ratio of 1:100 when racing on track.

The RE engine has a much better volumetric efficiency compared to piston engines, it is indeed a wonderful powerhouse to have. Too bad too many people have no idea about how to service the engine.

For example, due to harmonics, when disassembling the rotary engine, you must remove the engine bolts in SPECIFIC orders, or the housings will not be reusable.

Do not believe in all those so-called "experts" that experiment with your money, knowledge is power:

I suggest you visit:

Racing Beat: http://www.racingbeat.com

Mazda Competition: http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/FaqContact?storeId=10001

Opinions expressed are my own, based on my personal experiece. Your mileage may vary.

Last but not least, good luck!

Cheers :)

Anyone can really confirm the use of 2T oil with the fuel? I afraid of blowing for the 2nd time.

 

[csl]

To the good folks at the RE club & csl,

I usually just lurk, but I feel like posting this time.

Based on my experience (started with 12A, 13B, then 20B), rotary engines are actually very reliable, but you must have the right tuning:

1) Air fuel is the key for this engine as we cannot afford a knock(unlike a piston engine)
-always run slightly richer
-must get an accurate a/f meter to monitor
-extra injector(s) if you are boosting

2) Rebuild
-Housings must be checked for appropriate thickness
-I was with Mazda Comp (Mazda Competition)'s racer program when I was overseas, so I had access to very valuable info and race parts, try to find out if you can join them.

3) Maintenance
-I mix motorbike 2T oil in the ratio of 1:200 when filling up to a full tank of gas for street driving
-and a ratio of 1:100 when racing on track.

The RE engine has a much better volumetric efficiency compared to piston engines, it is indeed a wonderful powerhouse to have. Too bad too many people have no idea about how to service the engine.

For example, due to harmonics, when disassembling the rotary engine, you must remove the engine bolts in SPECIFIC orders, or the housings will not be reusable.

Do not believe in all those so-called "experts" that experiment with your money, knowledge is power:

I suggest you visit:

Racing Beat: http://www.racingbeat.com

Mazda Competition: http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/FaqContact?storeId=10001

Opinions expressed are my own, based on my personal experiece. Your mileage may vary.

Last but not least, good luck!

Cheers :)

Anyone can really confirm the use of 2T oil with the fuel? I afraid of blowing for the 2nd time.

 

[csl]

To the good folks at the RE club & csl,

I usually just lurk, but I feel like posting this time.

Based on my experience (started with 12A, 13B, then 20B), rotary engines are actually very reliable, but you must have the right tuning:

1) Air fuel is the key for this engine as we cannot afford a knock(unlike a piston engine)
-always run slightly richer
-must get an accurate a/f meter to monitor
-extra injector(s) if you are boosting

2) Rebuild
-Housings must be checked for appropriate thickness
-I was with Mazda Comp (Mazda Competition)'s racer program when I was overseas, so I had access to very valuable info and race parts, try to find out if you can join them.

3) Maintenance
-I mix motorbike 2T oil in the ratio of 1:200 when filling up to a full tank of gas for street driving
-and a ratio of 1:100 when racing on track.

The RE engine has a much better volumetric efficiency compared to piston engines, it is indeed a wonderful powerhouse to have. Too bad too many people have no idea about how to service the engine.

For example, due to harmonics, when disassembling the rotary engine, you must remove the engine bolts in SPECIFIC orders, or the housings will not be reusable.

Do not believe in all those so-called "experts" that experiment with your money, knowledge is power:

I suggest you visit:

Racing Beat: http://www.racingbeat.com

Mazda Competition: http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/FaqContact?storeId=10001

Opinions expressed are my own, based on my personal experiece. Your mileage may vary.

Last but not least, good luck!

Cheers :)

Anyone can really confirm the use of 2T oil with the fuel? I afraid of blowing for the 2nd time.

 

[csl]

Anyone can really confirm the use of 2T oil with the fuel? I afraid of blowing for the 2nd time.

 

[csl]

Anyone can really confirm the use of 2T oil with the fuel? I afraid of blowing for the 2nd time.

 

[phat7]

i've been using it for some time without problems. Maybe other rx8 owners can confirm this?

 

[csl]

will the 2t kill the cat?

 

[phat7]

interesting find if you dig around the rx8 forum

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=108224&highlight=premix

 

[Lennon]

2T is recommended by some famous tuners and experts from US...... Since so much FD owners had tried it, no harm to do so...... Petronas selling 500ml 2T oil for RM8, is it ok to use Petronas??

 

[theseira]

I don't use premix for my FC but if you're gonna use then I'd suggest using the best 2T oil available. It'll cost more than RM8 for sure. I've seen rempits using Motul 2T oils in their bikes. Supposedly their engines don't seize even after thrashing their engines repeatedly and it does give out a sweet smell.