blown engine and related matters...please share..

[kariayam]

Sorry guys, i found that my messages won't appear in my first post in this thread. So i'm sending the same thing again n hope there will be no problem.

Hi Guys,

I am sure some of u guys ever experienced with a blown engine( apex seals/side seals etc..)

How do you guys detect if the engine is blown?

Or may be can be detected in terms of:

1-Idling behaviour
2-sounds
3-Does a blown engine still can produce boost like normal?
4- smoke from exhaust?
5-Or any other symptoms that u guys experienced with a blown engine?


In different case,

I am experiencing this kind of problems/matters lately(or is it really a problem and hope not)

1-I am experiencing weird idling during cold start.. hmm the trend is like..

RPM : 800 800 800 800 500 400 200 100, then kick to 1000 then 800 800 <---this happens for several minutes before the engine warms up.. then the idle came to normal

Sometimes the idle is as high as 1500 RPM during the first start even though the water temp has come to normal operating condition( 82-84 deg. C) and only came to normal 800-900 RPM after driven for a while.

Is it because of faulty TPS, bad spark plugs/ cables, or vacuum system?

2- When cold starting, I can obviously hear a mild * ting ting ting * noise from the engine at the turbo side sounds like steel pipes being hit together but not so loud... and disappears once the engine is warm.


3- I am using a Power FC and normally the knock reading will show highest peak reading of 20-24 when boosting.. Is this considered high?

Recently (yesterday), the knock reading surprisingly peaked at 64. I am guessing there was something wrong with the fuel system, could be the injectors/ fuel filter etc. or is it something to do with the mentioned problem 1 and 2 as stated above?

Power wise, I don’t feel enough G as before when the 2nd turbo kicks in, but the boost reading is still as normal as before.


Really need your help in tracing out and sharing experience regarding these problems dear sifus. I believe u guys have a lot of experience with rotary engine and the systems.

Just want to know more about troubleshooting these matters before sending the car to mechs. However I’ll send this car to Ah Choy this coming Monday to sought out these matters.

Thanks bros!!

 

[kariayam]

Hi guys,.
as sais before in this thread, i would like to share my findings when i inspected the car today. May be these findings contribute to one of the stated matters before.

1- Fuel pulse dampener is found leaking. This item is located before the primary fuel rail (basically, it's like : the dampener-> primary fuel rail->secondary fuel rail -> fuel pressure regulator---looks like the OEM fuel pressure regulator). The leak area is slightly wet with petrol. This may be one of the cause of high engine knocking(detected from FC comander) due to lean A/F ratio when boosting and weird idle behaviour.

The best thing is when i found:

FD3s Pulsation Damper Elimination

the page above shows how to throw the dampener into the bin since the faulty dampener would kill your engine and burn out $$$$. And I am 150% will get Ah Choy to throw the f*&kin dampener out.

Leaking dampener will leak out high pressure fuel from entering into the fuel rail, and ...i guess u guys know what will happen..

Only minor modification to bypass the dampener will save the engine. But i still don't know the draw back of bypassing the dampener. Most piston cylinder engine don't use this dampener in front of the fuel rail.

the banzai racing also does eliminate all the complicated and lousy systems attached to the engine to make the rotary engine runs at the simplest. i.e; eliminating double throttle, air control valve, air split valve, EGR, Idle speed control etc...

May be by eliminating these system would make life easier when diagnosing any upcoming isues. But still don't know the draw back of these eliminations.. May be some one could share this. But i woudn't care much as long the drivability is not being compromised.

2- The rubber hose connecting the thermostat to the radiator is found leaking at the clamp area. the clamp is overtighten and tear out the rubber hose. There is a tiny tear at the hose that causes significant coolant loss and drips on the floor when leaving the car over night.

However, the engine never suffer overheating problem before this, and the water temp only once maxed out at 106 deg C ( when stucked in a heavy traffic jam at Batu Caves during the Thaipusam after bending the Ulu Yam roads...duhh)

Mostly the car will run at 82-88 deg. C in smooth driving.

After all the things that happened, i will do the compression test tomorrow to ensure the health of the engine is still at the best, and hopefully the result will still keep me smiling!!!

Will share more w u guys...ciao

 

[savahn]

Well, take it to Ah Choy to solve your problems.

The Fuel Pulse Damper is a "controversial" thing. Some people are for, some are against.

IMO, which isnt a pro opinion, once you've upgraded the fuel system (and install a fuel pressure regulator), you're fine to get rid of it.

 

[kariayam]

savahn, what do u mean by upgrading fuel system?

i'm using walbro in tank fuel pump and adjustable FPR. is it considered as upgraded fuel system?

 

[- D i a b l o -]

savahn, what do u mean by upgrading fuel system?

i'm using walbro in tank fuel pump and adjustable FPR. is it considered as upgraded fuel system?

anything different then stock is upgraded.Are you using stock injectors or aftermarket ones?

 

[kariayam]

diablo, i am using stock injectors...