Enquire on A32 Suspension/ Springs.
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Hey guys,
Want to check with you all. Currently my setting is using Gas Tokico with Eibach Pro-Kit springs. When the car behind fully sit by 3 person, the rear of the car will go very low & d car looks not nice as front is still the height but rear is very low. Is this normal to A32?
And also where to buy the Koni shocks? Soft hard only?
I saw in the web that Koni not only got yellow Koni but also red Koni slightly softer than the red Koni. Right?
With Koni yellow, will the rear of the car goes very low with 3 person behind?
Want to check with you all. Currently my setting is using Gas Tokico with Eibach Pro-Kit springs. When the car behind fully sit by 3 person, the rear of the car will go very low & d car looks not nice as front is still the height but rear is very low. Is this normal to A32?
And also where to buy the Koni shocks? Soft hard only?
I saw in the web that Koni not only got yellow Koni but also red Koni slightly softer than the red Koni. Right?
With Koni yellow, will the rear of the car goes very low with 3 person behind?
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A little education in springs and shocks here. Shocks do not hold the weight of the car. The springs do. Shocks are dampers, i.e. to slow down the compression and extension of the springs.
The two must be matched in order for them to work well. Stiff shocks and soft springs = sag + bumpy. Soft shocks with hard springs = bumpy and bouncy.
When I first got my Hot Bits street spec shocks, the general opinion was that they were too bumpy, and indeed they were. Because...
a) They were wrongly installed. Springs must be marginally preloaded to take away the initial "holding" effect before they compress. Preloading compresses the spring marginally allowing them to compress further smoothly.
b) They were wrongly matched. The front coilovers were ok. The spring rates and absorber stiffness were within tolerance. Front coilovers are easier to match and tune because the engine places a huge load on the assembly thereby allowing a very large margin for error.
The rears were another story completely. They were bumpy, tended to compress under load, and bounced on the highway. After sending them to be serviced, the characteristics remained just as bad.
Two weeks ago, after getting rather fed-up of having my arse bounced around all over the place, I took them off and went back to speedworks. I wanted a smoother ride and less compression. The springs were obviously too hard, and the absorber too soft. The general consensus was that I would have to change to softer springs if I wanted a smoother ride.
But I did something exactly opposite. I instructed Speedworks to HARDEN the absorber by approximately 15%, my estimate of the degree of mismatch.
The final result...no more bumpiness, no more compression under load, no more bounce, and generally, a smooth but tight suspension feel.
Some recommendations for the A32/33. To handle well, the car MUST be lowered at least 1.5" - 2" all around.
1. Stock+Eibach Prokit. If you want the exact same comfort, then the stock shocks are usable with Eibach Prokit springs. The uppermost edge of your mudguards will sit almost exactly 27" from the ground.
2. Uprated shock + Eibach Prokit. The Eibach Prokit, by virtue of being rather soft, is preloaded quite a bit by the weight of the car. This provides a larger margin for error when matching with a shock. Tokiko gas will probably not hack it as this is only slightly better than stock. Koni 3-way adjustables are some of the best shocks you can find for this application. However, as the Prokits are only about 10% stiffer than stock, expect your rear to sag when the car is loaded. Remember...springs carry the weight, not the shocks.
3. Coilovers. An expensive option, but necessary if you really want to solve the problem.
Hot Bits street specs are ok, but you will need to instruct for the rears to be tuned like mine to correct the mistake made by Speedworks in their initial calculation (they never took into consideration that the A32 weighed 1.45 MT).
Titan are not bad. My only reservation is that they are hand made and lack the precision of the international brands. Expect the seals to leak earlier, but then again, they are cheaper to service. Also, the fact that they can be infinitely tuned makes them a rather nice option.
There are an infinite number of coilover options on the market, but except for the purely Japanese imported stuff, the rest are local manufacturers licenced to assemble, and they match according to their own "experience". I have yet to see one of these actually calculate spring vs damping rates. You can use any one of them, as shocks technology is no longer "rocket science" but be sure that they are easily and cheaply serviced, the shop you buy from is going to stay in business for some time, and you have the time to find the right match by trial and error since, in the absense of any sort of scientific matching methodology, this is what they will be doing.
Forget about the so called "experience" they spout as it is highly unlikely that anyone has driven every vehicle in the market and knows the handling characteristics of every vehicle in the market. Test a properly tuned car to know how it should feel. Then, find a coilover shop and start testing combinations of shocks and springs.
First, find a spring rate that doesn't sag under load, but don't over do it as too much and you will be running on steel rods, not springs. My springs from Hot Bits are rated "30". I have no idea what this matches up to in Kg/mm. And neither do they.
Then, find tune a shock to handle the high spring rate. Also, don't overdo it because you WANT the spring to compress when you hit a bump.
Good luck!
The two must be matched in order for them to work well. Stiff shocks and soft springs = sag + bumpy. Soft shocks with hard springs = bumpy and bouncy.
When I first got my Hot Bits street spec shocks, the general opinion was that they were too bumpy, and indeed they were. Because...
a) They were wrongly installed. Springs must be marginally preloaded to take away the initial "holding" effect before they compress. Preloading compresses the spring marginally allowing them to compress further smoothly.
b) They were wrongly matched. The front coilovers were ok. The spring rates and absorber stiffness were within tolerance. Front coilovers are easier to match and tune because the engine places a huge load on the assembly thereby allowing a very large margin for error.
The rears were another story completely. They were bumpy, tended to compress under load, and bounced on the highway. After sending them to be serviced, the characteristics remained just as bad.
Two weeks ago, after getting rather fed-up of having my arse bounced around all over the place, I took them off and went back to speedworks. I wanted a smoother ride and less compression. The springs were obviously too hard, and the absorber too soft. The general consensus was that I would have to change to softer springs if I wanted a smoother ride.
But I did something exactly opposite. I instructed Speedworks to HARDEN the absorber by approximately 15%, my estimate of the degree of mismatch.
The final result...no more bumpiness, no more compression under load, no more bounce, and generally, a smooth but tight suspension feel.
Some recommendations for the A32/33. To handle well, the car MUST be lowered at least 1.5" - 2" all around.
1. Stock+Eibach Prokit. If you want the exact same comfort, then the stock shocks are usable with Eibach Prokit springs. The uppermost edge of your mudguards will sit almost exactly 27" from the ground.
2. Uprated shock + Eibach Prokit. The Eibach Prokit, by virtue of being rather soft, is preloaded quite a bit by the weight of the car. This provides a larger margin for error when matching with a shock. Tokiko gas will probably not hack it as this is only slightly better than stock. Koni 3-way adjustables are some of the best shocks you can find for this application. However, as the Prokits are only about 10% stiffer than stock, expect your rear to sag when the car is loaded. Remember...springs carry the weight, not the shocks.
3. Coilovers. An expensive option, but necessary if you really want to solve the problem.
Hot Bits street specs are ok, but you will need to instruct for the rears to be tuned like mine to correct the mistake made by Speedworks in their initial calculation (they never took into consideration that the A32 weighed 1.45 MT).
Titan are not bad. My only reservation is that they are hand made and lack the precision of the international brands. Expect the seals to leak earlier, but then again, they are cheaper to service. Also, the fact that they can be infinitely tuned makes them a rather nice option.
There are an infinite number of coilover options on the market, but except for the purely Japanese imported stuff, the rest are local manufacturers licenced to assemble, and they match according to their own "experience". I have yet to see one of these actually calculate spring vs damping rates. You can use any one of them, as shocks technology is no longer "rocket science" but be sure that they are easily and cheaply serviced, the shop you buy from is going to stay in business for some time, and you have the time to find the right match by trial and error since, in the absense of any sort of scientific matching methodology, this is what they will be doing.
Forget about the so called "experience" they spout as it is highly unlikely that anyone has driven every vehicle in the market and knows the handling characteristics of every vehicle in the market. Test a properly tuned car to know how it should feel. Then, find a coilover shop and start testing combinations of shocks and springs.
First, find a spring rate that doesn't sag under load, but don't over do it as too much and you will be running on steel rods, not springs. My springs from Hot Bits are rated "30". I have no idea what this matches up to in Kg/mm. And neither do they.
Then, find tune a shock to handle the high spring rate. Also, don't overdo it because you WANT the spring to compress when you hit a bump.
Good luck!
Good info bro...will sticky this thread...
Thanks for the info bro. I think should try yello Koni with Eibach Pro-Kit springs. But where to get yellow Koni? Soft-Hard only. Right ?
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Konis are easily available and reasonably cheap in Singapore. As I am down in Singapore often, I can order, but will have to bring them back a set at a time. Otherwise, get taxed at customs.
Alternatively, you can organize a day trip to Sg...with family, maybe. Will probably cost more, but more fun, and can turn it into a "Koni absorber" day. My friend owns a workshop in Sg and that is where I get my more difficult to acquire parts...
Alternatively, you can organize a day trip to Sg...with family, maybe. Will probably cost more, but more fun, and can turn it into a "Koni absorber" day. My friend owns a workshop in Sg and that is where I get my more difficult to acquire parts...
oooo. So what is the address in spore? I mean your fren shop? Do they install & do alighment & balancing as well?
I used to b a "victim" of mix n macth on shockers untill one day I give it all up n give titan a try. it was year 2k when da shop first open. richard da shop owner took me for a test drive, da ride a gud enough n most importantly comfort. I was looking for sumthing like comfort + better handling + safety wt firmer ride n richard say he can do it...I'm not so sure at first coz all dis time I juz used to mix n match mentality when come to shock setup n now switching to a "custom" shock. well, no mo choice since I got no idea to solve my handling problem so juz hand over my car to him.
after 2 days back to his shop n test my ride it was gud...da handling improve wt firmer feeling when negotiating bends n most important "comfort".
after 2 days back to his shop n test my ride it was gud...da handling improve wt firmer feeling when negotiating bends n most important "comfort".
it has been 8 years since den. during dis period I had swap afew set of wheels ranging from 14'-17' n eveli time richard fine tune da characteristic of da shock to match it. he really try to perfect it evelitime time there is a changes in da setup.
oni ting dat I regreted is I should use titan from day 1 saving my $ n time n not to mention da effort mix macthing shocks.
oni ting dat I regreted is I should use titan from day 1 saving my $ n time n not to mention da effort mix macthing shocks.
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bros, i juz acquired my A32 3.0L. the suspension is damn hard. the height looks standard, but its very-very bumpy, never fail to make my passengers dizzy. i suspect its the absorbers.
im thinking of replacing back to standard absorbers. anyone knows how much they costs?
Bump: bros, i juz acquired my A32 3.0L. the suspension is damn hard. the height looks standard, but its very-very bumpy, never fail to make my passengers dizzy. i suspect its the absorbers.
im thinking of replacing back to standard absorbers. anyone knows how much they costs?
im thinking of replacing back to standard absorbers. anyone knows how much they costs?
Bump: bros, i juz acquired my A32 3.0L. the suspension is damn hard. the height looks standard, but its very-very bumpy, never fail to make my passengers dizzy. i suspect its the absorbers.
im thinking of replacing back to standard absorbers. anyone knows how much they costs?
hey guys i recently lowered my a33 cefiro its on 20's ...but the cv joint keep making noise even tho i changed it and put a new one...is ther some thing i can do to the axles or joints...i really dont want to raise it ...it looks really kewl at that height...HELP....!!
jonlsl
Active Member
If you are using standard wheels and rims, would suggest HWL Red absorbers. They are firm and still comfortable enough. But not recommended if you have changed to bigger wheels. My other choice would be the original Tokiko from japan.
Hi all,
I am newbie here. I just bought a Cefiro A32 couple of weeks ago but sadly the car need a lot of repairs. I have just replaced the radiator top cover, the master brakes and now replacing kits for the both the front brakes. When driving I heard squeaky noise coming from the left wheel and made worst if you are driving on rough roads. I am just wondering how much does a stock front shock absorber cost? Thanks in advance
I am newbie here. I just bought a Cefiro A32 couple of weeks ago but sadly the car need a lot of repairs. I have just replaced the radiator top cover, the master brakes and now replacing kits for the both the front brakes. When driving I heard squeaky noise coming from the left wheel and made worst if you are driving on rough roads. I am just wondering how much does a stock front shock absorber cost? Thanks in advance
Hi Gonit,
let me know if u wanan try Pedders Suspension (Australia product)
it will be much durable than original and also it improve ride quality without compromising much on comfort.
Let me know if u r interested,
call me @
0197122752
Any idea in using tvr adjustable suspension for a32 cefiro... how the performance?
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