Found this on the net, planning to diy this starter interupter that consist of relay and a few wiring. Need info on you guys, to do it or not to do it, coz my cars don't have any immobilizer mar... Well here is the details that i would like to share with you guys, don't know if this topic was posted before or not...
Normally Closed Starter Kill Relay:
The basic starter kill relay diagram shown below, breaks continuity of the lead from the ignition switch to the starter motor (or in some cases i.e.; Ford, to another relay), when the alarm is armed and the ignition is turned on. This is the most commonly used application for disabling the starter. (Ref Picture 1)
Normally Open Starter Kill:
This normally open starter kill relay application below relies on a ground from the alarm when disarmed and 12 volts (+) from the ignition to enable the driver to start the vehicle. * Note: most alarms with this feature will not provide this grounded output when power ,12 volts (+), to the alarm is not present, even if the alarm is grounded. (Ref Picture 2)
Passive Starter Kill:
This is a stand alone starter kill. It does not rely on an alarm or keyless entry for it to work, only a simple momentary contact switch (normally open) to deactivate it. Every time the ignition is turned off, continuity is broken on the starter feed wire. To disable (or start), turn ignition on, then press the hidden switch, then start as normal. (Ref Picture 3)
You can substitute the switch with a number of others devices such as the amp turn on lead of your head unit. Be sure to isolate it with at least a 1 amp diode. Turn the key to the run position. Allow the head unit to come on or turn it on. Now start the vehicle. If you connected to the power antenna lead, make sure the tuner is on. If you have a pullout or detachable face head unit, your vehicle will not start without it. (Ref Picture 4)
If you wish to use a device such as your horn, but do not want the horn to sound when you deactivate the starter kill, yet still work when driving, you can use the same configuration above on both the horn and the starter lead as shown below. The starter kill is deactivated by the positive output of the vehicle's horn relay and the horn's interrupt is deactivated by the positive output of the starter lead from the key. You could substitute the horn with other devices such as parking lights, brake lights, etc. where you do not want it to be obvious that you used the device to disable the starter kill. (Ref Picture 5)
So guys, better make witch one ha???? :D
Normally Closed Starter Kill Relay:
The basic starter kill relay diagram shown below, breaks continuity of the lead from the ignition switch to the starter motor (or in some cases i.e.; Ford, to another relay), when the alarm is armed and the ignition is turned on. This is the most commonly used application for disabling the starter. (Ref Picture 1)
Normally Open Starter Kill:
This normally open starter kill relay application below relies on a ground from the alarm when disarmed and 12 volts (+) from the ignition to enable the driver to start the vehicle. * Note: most alarms with this feature will not provide this grounded output when power ,12 volts (+), to the alarm is not present, even if the alarm is grounded. (Ref Picture 2)
Passive Starter Kill:
This is a stand alone starter kill. It does not rely on an alarm or keyless entry for it to work, only a simple momentary contact switch (normally open) to deactivate it. Every time the ignition is turned off, continuity is broken on the starter feed wire. To disable (or start), turn ignition on, then press the hidden switch, then start as normal. (Ref Picture 3)
You can substitute the switch with a number of others devices such as the amp turn on lead of your head unit. Be sure to isolate it with at least a 1 amp diode. Turn the key to the run position. Allow the head unit to come on or turn it on. Now start the vehicle. If you connected to the power antenna lead, make sure the tuner is on. If you have a pullout or detachable face head unit, your vehicle will not start without it. (Ref Picture 4)
If you wish to use a device such as your horn, but do not want the horn to sound when you deactivate the starter kill, yet still work when driving, you can use the same configuration above on both the horn and the starter lead as shown below. The starter kill is deactivated by the positive output of the vehicle's horn relay and the horn's interrupt is deactivated by the positive output of the starter lead from the key. You could substitute the horn with other devices such as parking lights, brake lights, etc. where you do not want it to be obvious that you used the device to disable the starter kill. (Ref Picture 5)
So guys, better make witch one ha???? :D
