Carburetor Section

[cookie]

use mikuni carb

 

[dwight_my]

Hi SkYwAlKeR,

Thanks alot....I just did DIY tuning of my Carb yesterday.....and this is my observation.

1. If u tighten the AFR screw(clockwise) - it incerases the Fuel
2. If u loose the AFR screw(anti-clockwise) - it decrease the fuel

The screw in front of the AFR is for the AutoChoke (when u start your car in the morning or when the engine is cold)

Note:
the Airfilter will need to be in place during the tuning not too sure WHY....but i guess there is some thing to do with the vacumm system connected to the Airfilter box.

I have also just filled the tank with $60.00 and will observe the FC and update you all... Give me a week.

D

 

[dwight_my]

Hi kinki_kidz®,

I have tried the decarbonizing my 1999 iswara with nightwish (http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/showthread.php?p=1420288#post1420288)
I believe that he has contacted u.

1 btl is $68.00

Its a good product ..... your engine will feel smooth through-out the gear change.

Try it.

 

[dwight_my]

Hi cookie,

u mention using mikuni carb....where can we get this kind of carb/from which car model? is it PNP (plug n Play)? How much does it cost? and lastly wat are the benefits compared to the std oem proton carb?

Please explain....

D

 

[SkYwAlKeR]

Hi SkYwAlKeR,

Thanks alot....I just did DIY tuning of my Carb yesterday.....and this is my observation.

1. If u tighten the AFR screw(clockwise) - it incerases the Fuel
2. If u loose the AFR screw(anti-clockwise) - it decrease the fuel

The screw in front of the AFR is for the AutoChoke (when u start your car in the morning or when the engine is cold)

Note:
the Airfilter will need to be in place during the tuning not too sure WHY....but i guess there is some thing to do with the vacumm system connected to the Airfilter box.

I have also just filled the tank with $60.00 and will observe the FC and update you all... Give me a week.

D

wow.... congrats.... how u tune the AFR??... u got O2 sensor??... or do guessing game??...
the air filter need to be in place because there is certain air flow restriction once u put in ur filter.... air restriction = less air being sucked.... thus, it does affect ur AFR tuning....

 

[dwight_my]

How i tune the AFR?

Hi SkYwAlKeR,

Thanks to the guide from Gavan on page 192in this forum, here is what i did.

1.off your engine turn your AFR screw to the tightest you could (turn clockWise)

2.then unscrew it bout 3 full rounds. (turn anti-clockwise)

3.then start your engine and adjust the idling screw (the biggest one on the rightside of the carb for proton)
*** make sure the idling is stable around 900rpm n dun forget to rev the engine a bit each time you do an adjustment ***

4.then you slowly adjust your ARF screw to lean (turn anti-clockwise)...noticing the engine sound each time you turn the screw wether the engine pings(knock) turn it till you notice a drop in RPM(like the engine is choking)
then turn the screw half way out(richen it)/ (turn Clockwise) until u notice the idling of the engine is smooth/stable

5.adjust the idling again to maintain at 900rpm, then you should be fine.
(do tune it after driving a while to suit your needs =)

Note:
if you feel the RPM is hard to climb (eg:it only climbs at early RPM then the engine feels like it doesnt wanna rev) then you should richen the fuel mixture a lil more =)
(turn clockwise)

Well guys i'm also trying it out....no tools /O2 sensor...just by listening and feeling your car's body. may need to do additional adjustments later / after driving awhile.

Will keep u all inform/posted
D

 

[fstr]

all also sifooo edi :D

 

[cookie]

Hi cookie,

u mention using mikuni carb....where can we get this kind of carb/from which car model? is it PNP (plug n Play)? How much does it cost? and lastly wat are the benefits compared to the std oem proton carb?

Please explain....

D

u can find it at powerzone (note: last time I search around late last year) price I'm not sure

but if not mistaken it plugs and play into a proton carb mainfold :_:

 

[SkYwAlKeR]

all also sifooo edi :D

but u are the master of all sifoo ma....:regular_smile:

 

[cookie]

but u are the master of all sifoo ma....:regular_smile:

agree :_: with skywalker as regards 2 sif000 Fred

 

[theorekz]

oic!! wah!! so expensive?? got used 1 ah??? what the different between in the 36 and 40?? which 1 good performance and save fuel??? how much need to mod to put back original filter??

ya... this is my total cost of DCNF 40 conversion on 4G13P..

Weber DCNF 40 - RM350 (2nd hand)
Aluminium base - RM150
Installation - RM100
K&N Filter, 3 inch - RM260(originally is RM360, i traded in my old K&N for RM100)
Total - RM 800++

statisfaction?? priceless... haha :_:

can i know what engine u using?? 8v or 12v? if 8v plz let me know.. i have the base for it, made from aluminium... i'll sell it to u at a reasonable price...

 

[rayracer]

nice!! what a power feel on which rpm? my is 12valve,good torque??

 

[awos_84]

Hi SkYwAlKeR,

Thanks to the guide from Gavan on page 192in this forum, here is what i did.

1.off your engine turn your AFR screw to the tightest you could (turn clockWise)

2.then unscrew it bout 3 full rounds. (turn anti-clockwise)

3.then start your engine and adjust the idling screw (the biggest one on the rightside of the carb for proton)
*** make sure the idling is stable around 900rpm n dun forget to rev the engine a bit each time you do an adjustment ***

4.then you slowly adjust your ARF screw to lean (turn anti-clockwise)...noticing the engine sound each time you turn the screw wether the engine pings(knock) turn it till you notice a drop in RPM(like the engine is choking)
then turn the screw half way out(richen it)/ (turn Clockwise) until u notice the idling of the engine is smooth/stable

5.adjust the idling again to maintain at 900rpm, then you should be fine.
(do tune it after driving a while to suit your needs =)

Note:
if you feel the RPM is hard to climb (eg:it only climbs at early RPM then the engine feels like it doesnt wanna rev) then you should richen the fuel mixture a lil more =)
(turn clockwise)

Well guys i'm also trying it out....no tools /O2 sensor...just by listening and feeling your car's body. may need to do additional adjustments later / after driving awhile.

Will keep u all inform/posted
D

sifuu at the back of carb, actually got 2 thing which can be adjust... which one??
one can be tunning using screw driver( flat one not the philip)
another one only can be tunning by player or spark plug..
so my question is which one must be tune first?? and the step should i take to tune it.. help me cos my fc like killing me hardly right now..:sad_smile:

 

[dwight_my]

Hi AWOS_84,

the AFR is the one which uses a flat screwdriver.

I realy do not know wat u mean using plyer or spark plug........

Are u driving a proton? if yes

My instructions above is very clear on which to tune 1st.....just follow the directions.

Regards
D

 

[kweng84]

wow...at last, i have tuned my car to the level i wanted...thanks to Gavan and Dwight for the info of AFR screw...thanks!!

 

[fstr]

thats why this section is very user frenly one maaa :p

 

[jcn9690]

huhu..

you all must make use every guides that geven by those taikors..hehehe..very very usefull

 

[gavan]

lol =þ actually what he meant when using a plyer or spark plug is because some of our cars have the special nut for the AFR tuning where we cant use normal screwdriver to tune it cause the nut is different so by using the spark plug or plyers to grip the screw we could tune it =) [*oh forgot to add* you might also tune the AFR with a special inverted-allen key look-alike nut which some mechs might have it. its specially design to ease the tuning of carburators and avoid the use of screwdrivers and plyers which might damage the screw.]


btw, the screw you should try playing around first is the idling screw. try not to idle too high as high idling = more fuel consumption. so reduce it to around 900rpm +/- which should be the normal RPM for a normal car =) (note:if you are driving an auto you might wanna let it idle higher but not too high cause when you shift into gear the RPm would drop slightly)

after adjusting that then you could also follow the steps as what dwight had mentioned earlier =)

sometimes after tuning and tuning and yet the FC is still high you must also need to look at other factors such as:

1) is your car's exhaust piping modded or still stock. if its modded, is it modded to the correct size for your engine?
2) is your engine still in good working condition
3) is your carb still in good working condition(no leaks, spoilt floats,stuck jettings, etc etc)
4) is your filter clean
5) is your fuel filter clean
6) is your fuel pump working
7) is your timing correct

hope some if this information is helpful to some who might still have high FC even after tuning your carb. the world of carburators are fun to play around with and at least it gives you something ti mingle around with when you have nothing else to do to your car =þ

 

[gavan]

wow...at last, i have tuned my car to the level i wanted...thanks to Gavan and Dwight for the info of AFR screw...thanks!!

huhu, dun thank me cause ive laernt it from sifoos here also (eg:Fred, cookie.....)

 

[kweng84]

Thanks to all sifus...But, how to know whether we have made full use of the AFR screw... it seems that no matter how i tune the AFR screw, my RPM didnt drop or raise....what i can do is after i tune, i went and drive around my area and then tune again...any more advices from you all sifus? thanks~!