Brake Improvement...How la..?

wow.. a lot of info.. esp fr shiro.. thanks man.

im gonna go for the cheapest first la.. the DIY braided hose.. hahah..
maybe cost RM5. kekeke..
 
bornzreign said:
bro shiro,
thats what i tot n read frm books n the net lahh at first about cross drilled rotor..
to dissipate heat...but then ive tried my fren standard satria wif stock disc n then he cross drilled the disc...yesss,i feel the difference.
Maybe only psychology effect...on me..
but still i feel the different.Maybe just me..anyone else have experience wif cross drilled?care to share?

thanks shiro for the input

Had a talk with a friend about this.. he said it might be possible that you will feel that way, because what your friend is doing is something like making the surface of the disc rougher.. but he could have improved his braking (perhaps even better than doing the crossdrilled thing) by using high abrasive pads, which would give more grip with the larger surface area of the stock rotor.

If he used a high end abrasive pad with the stock rotor vs. drilled ones, he should experience that crossdrilled doesn't give better braking.

Anyway.. if you use high abrasive pads, you'd probably not notice the braking increase because you'd be long past the threshold of the tires grip... but....

For me, braking upgrades is not just for stopping power.. it's for a better feel, so you can use the brakes to do some minor weight shifts, which is kinda a must if you're driving an FF car... (>_<)
 
That might sound like drift techniques.. but for me, that's what causes the understeer in FF cars.. you mash on the pedal, you lose grip on the front end due to all the weight going rearwards..

you tap the brakes, and suddenly you're diving into the direction your tires are pointing you to.

better feel means you can jab the brakes softly and control the direction of the car easier...

of course.. nobody actually goes 120kmh++ into a hairpin turn now, don't they? :P
 
shiro i know a guy who drive 100km/h at the subang hairpin before.
 
I heard of people who drove over 160kmh at hairpins... too bad they don't live after that to gloat about it.. ROFL! It's highly possible that by pushing to the max, we can even take hairpin corners at 100kmh+ on a stock chassis... but wouldn't it be safer if we have better control or faster braking in event of the unlikely?

Definitely, if you want to stay alive, it's always better to keep some reserve in case something happens.. driving to the max just invites trouble. Unlike pro racers with medics on standby, it takes ages for an ambulance to arrive on public roads... (O_o)

Anyway I'd prefer smooth driving over daredevil antics any day... No sudden changes in speed.. just a smooth entry and exit without losing too much speed.
 
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watch & learn from anime laa..initial D...:_:
 
oh and cross drilled rotors are mainly recommended for street. If ur going for abuse intensive application like auto X, i've read that they cant handle too much stress n may crack.
 
nehemiah said:
oh and cross drilled rotors are mainly recommended for street. If ur going for abuse intensive application like auto X, i've read that they cant handle too much stress n may crack.

You're right, they do crack, unless they were moulded with holes in them, extensive research has gone into those rotors. Do not drill your own holes, as they create stress points on braking, and may crack.

To improve brake performance, i would recommend.

Buying a good set of brake pads for example project mue or endless. it might set you back RM500 for a pair, and a set of good set of dual/single plated rotors, they may be slotted or not, up to how much you wanna pay, and how much braking you are going to do.

Braided brake lines are a good idea aswell, to stop the hosing to expand under high pressure (hard braking) STock rubber hoses expand!

comes back to are you tracking the car? or just street driving.
 
need some views on my current situatio,
i skimmed my disc about 10months ago bcoz the surface x smooth anymore, then changed to EBC blackstuff pad.last month need to skim my disc again (surface x smooth anymore) since when i was doing 130km/h+ when i press the brake, there was a shaking feeling (both front brakes) and stopping power was so bad (i need to slam the brake hard then the shaking/vibrating feeling stops)

my questions are,

- is my disc kong already? (is it normal to skim the discs +- yearly) if yes how much cost to replace the discs? any recomendation for daily normal driving one? i was thinking to get stock discs back.
- is my brake pad (ebc blackstuff) from time to time damaging the discs) many ppl say this pad is okey for normal daily driving.
- my mechanic said, i need to take out the abs system to make my brake more responsive, how true is that?

I've changed to goodridge steel braided hose but stil not up to my expectation.

i am driving 2dr ek4 with b16a.car nearly stock conditon with only air intake n exhaust mods. honestly, i x abuse my brake with hard braking.. drive slow oni hope anyone can help me improving my brake sys.

5 lugs ek9 is a good upgrade, maybe last resort - the cost is very high for me : (
 
I think stock discs aren't too expensive...

I'm just using stock pads on mine.. still great braking.. although the dust is kinda on the heavy side.. a minus on white rims.

ABS... I can't seem to get used to them, since you have to press it quite hard to get the ABS to engage, and I'm usually light-footed on the brakes.

But your mech is right.. removing the ABS does make the brakes more responsive. And also means that you have to change the way you press the brake pedal... cannot press like ABS...
 
Sure.. probably heading down there soon if the deal on a part with hattech goes through.. 2K+ is a lot of cash for a brake system.. but I'm kinda happy with the performance..
 
Personally, i wouldnt' touch the abs part of your car. if you are still driving your car on the street, you wouldn't need that level of braking performance, not sure if it'll improve your brake performance. ABS brakes will save you and your car on a wet rainy day, and when you slam your brakes, you'll be thanking god you never tampered with them.

To machine (skim) your disks, every year is quite alot. Do you do alot of hard braking in order to warp them? I guess if they're constantly warped, it'll be a good idea to machine them down. But every time you machine them, they get thinner. You might want to invest in a rotor that can take more heat and pressure, so it doesn't warp so easily.

The EBC brakepads should be fine for daily driving. Rotors will cost you money depending on brand, compound, type, etc. Can't get you prices in Ringgit, but i can in Japanese yen. Around 12,000 yen for a set of project mue's for a toyota ae111.
 
UKDMEK4,
wah 10month skim one time ??
i think u better change the rotors already....cos if u skim more than 2 times,the dics is very thin already.....for safetyness better change one,can look for 2nd hand one at kedai potong ......
 
Magicmarker said:
Personally, i wouldnt' touch the abs part of your car. if you are still driving your car on the street, you wouldn't need that level of braking performance, not sure if it'll improve your brake performance. ABS brakes will save you and your car on a wet rainy day, and when you slam your brakes, you'll be thanking god you never tampered with them.

In this case, I agree with magicmarker about removing ABS systems from your car.. You pay for it, and yet you remove it and pay someone to do it somemore.. although the main reason doesn't change.. the modulation of the ABS does make your brake a little unresponsive.

Which is why I stated you cannot press like ABS when running non ABS brakes, UKMEK6..

I been driving non ABS cars all my life... and given one to drive.. I always brake in a longer distance with ABS, since I usually don't press it enough for ABS to work effectively. But with non ABS.. I can brake in a shorter distance than most ABS systems included in newer hondas and still retain steering control.
 
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thts the reason, i am thinking to find new stock rotor after this, how much 2nd hand one? one concern for 2nd hand one in chop shop, ~durability.. if new stock rotor is affordable.. better get new one i suppose..

1 more thing to add, last time my tyres all hardened already, when i changed to goodrigde, i also change all tyre, - MY01, since i travel alot, i think my01 should be enuf laa..

bottom line, after all this changes not much improvement on my brake sys.

I m light-footed on the brakes too (like shiro), that why it disappoint me when i need to slam it bit hard to get the grip i want..

i have to admit i cannot expect 10yr old car braking sys. = 1 yr old car.. it just I m pretty sure there always room to improve depending on budget
 
frankly does those project miu slotted disc rotor will give better performance? or bigger rotor will do??
 
UKDMEK4 said:
i have to admit i cannot expect 10yr old car braking sys. = 1 yr old car.. it just I m pretty sure there always room to improve depending on budget

Eh... for me the 10 year old brake system is better lah.. wait.. mine is only 6 years old.. :P EK9 00' model's knuckles and brakes. (O_O).. discs are still okay, although once I need to have them replaced, I'd probably go for project u's...

I'm not familiar with KL shops so maybe other forummers might know where to get a good deal on stock discs..

Anyway.. ABS is like that.. cannot lightfooted.. it's either all or nothing... but braking shouldn't be that bad for most people.. maybe it's because of your rotors that it feels like that.
 

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