to me if you are on a low budget matspeed cams are good they been here since batu 3 time... i been using them since ages from 272. 288. 306 cams... no issue........
Basic camshaft installation guide
- Thread starter Izso
- Start date
Nah. Nothing will break and it's not dangerous.
I think you're paying for the research work and the fact that PZ and Matspd cams both are proven on track and drag races. It's like paying more for something that's proven and reputable. Nothing wrong with that imho.
Er... what has the aircon any relation to cams? The only way I see your aircon failing is if the idling is not constant. I don't know if 288 degree intake cams need management or not, but I suspect it might be borderline 'no-need'. If your idling is erratic, then you'll need management to control it and your aircon won't be affected.
Correction on some of the points and opinions here:
Octane number: Yes the chemical octane rating as in Researched Octane Number or RON of the fuel doesn't change. But we are looking at what is being combusted here - the air/fuel mixture, not just the fuel, so RON is not applicable here. It's the Motor Ron Number or MON that matters here. Contamination from combustion by product is known to decrease the MON of the air/fuel mixture making it easier to self-detonate upon compression.
In Izso's case, he was experiencing a slight amount of knocking with the large overlapping + RON95 fuel. Swapping to RON97 eliminates the knocking thus the engine works better and healthier.
How you tell if it knocks? You can hear it, trust me.
Ignition timing: this engine is crank-referred and it has an electronic ignition system. Whatever he did on the camshaft DIDN'T change the ignition timing. He's pointed out that the only way to adjust the ignition timing (without resorting a new management system) is by modifying the crank sensor bracket, like what I did here.
Tappet clearance adjustment: all you need are a good 12mm close-ring spanner, a flat-head screw driver, good ears and good eyes. Feeler gauge? I keep that in the closet and never use it for long enough that it some how rusted.
---------- Post added at 04:11 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:07 PM ----------
OT: izso, next time don't shot my side face, about 45 degrees to the side is the best angle. OK?
---------- Post added at 04:19 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:11 PM ----------
OOT: your bracelet in the second photo..... "-_-
Dude, I even have my watch removed before I worked on your engine so next time don't wear anything like ring, bracelet or watch while working on the engine. It's not good to show a bad example hehe!! XD
Octane number: Yes the chemical octane rating as in Researched Octane Number or RON of the fuel doesn't change. But we are looking at what is being combusted here - the air/fuel mixture, not just the fuel, so RON is not applicable here. It's the Motor Ron Number or MON that matters here. Contamination from combustion by product is known to decrease the MON of the air/fuel mixture making it easier to self-detonate upon compression.
In Izso's case, he was experiencing a slight amount of knocking with the large overlapping + RON95 fuel. Swapping to RON97 eliminates the knocking thus the engine works better and healthier.
How you tell if it knocks? You can hear it, trust me.
Ignition timing: this engine is crank-referred and it has an electronic ignition system. Whatever he did on the camshaft DIDN'T change the ignition timing. He's pointed out that the only way to adjust the ignition timing (without resorting a new management system) is by modifying the crank sensor bracket, like what I did here.
Tappet clearance adjustment: all you need are a good 12mm close-ring spanner, a flat-head screw driver, good ears and good eyes. Feeler gauge? I keep that in the closet and never use it for long enough that it some how rusted.
---------- Post added at 04:11 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:07 PM ----------
OT: izso, next time don't shot my side face, about 45 degrees to the side is the best angle. OK?
---------- Post added at 04:19 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:11 PM ----------
OOT: your bracelet in the second photo..... "-_-
Dude, I even have my watch removed before I worked on your engine so next time don't wear anything like ring, bracelet or watch while working on the engine. It's not good to show a bad example hehe!! XD
Thanks for the clarification.
While i understand the overlap causes some exhaust to remain inside the combustion chamber, thus reducing the MON ( as drexchan mentioned earlier), is there anyway to improve the exhaust exit speed? if less exhaust gas remain, so the MON is higher, then less prone to damage, and opens up the opportunity of using RON95.
and why choose the cam profiles that overlap? is there advantages for it? because as i understand the problem now is counter productive, if this car was to travel into more rural areas, that dont sell RON97 petrol, won't that increase the risk of the car getting damaged?
i ask, because i noticed this is a daily driving car, so RON97 availability is important, No?
While i understand the overlap causes some exhaust to remain inside the combustion chamber, thus reducing the MON ( as drexchan mentioned earlier), is there anyway to improve the exhaust exit speed? if less exhaust gas remain, so the MON is higher, then less prone to damage, and opens up the opportunity of using RON95.
and why choose the cam profiles that overlap? is there advantages for it? because as i understand the problem now is counter productive, if this car was to travel into more rural areas, that dont sell RON97 petrol, won't that increase the risk of the car getting damaged?
i ask, because i noticed this is a daily driving car, so RON97 availability is important, No?
In SOHC applications with 'rockers' maybe regrind still ok but in DOHC applications especially for high duration and lift safer to go billet..greater accuracy and symetry;...eg has it been 'hardened' after the regrind???
Dude, overlapping between the exhaust and intake stroke is the basic event what a cam modder is looking forward to change lah... What those numbers 262/288/2xx mean when we talk about cam profiles? It's the overlapping duration in cam degrees. If there isn't any overlapping the engine is useless in automotive term.
Higher degree of overlapping is what making all the extra horses even the standard camshaft has overlapping. Performance cam overlaps more for longer intake and exhaust event. Exhaust scavenging will aid intake charging so having overlap is good.
More overlap makes high rev power, less overlap makes good low rev torque and best idling quality is with minimal overlap. Therefore VVT/CVT/VTEC/MIVEC/etc are invented to change the overlapping at different rev range and engine load.
The problem here is not with the camshaft or the tuning of it.
When we talk about knocking, the 4G15 is one of the most robust engine running around with knocks. Seen those Iswara/Wira that are being driven by lazy drivers who never bother to drop shift after a corner around a taman?
I personally think that all he need is increasing the fuel pressure. 4G15 is known to burn lean, too lean. Lean burning + blow back contamination is what causing the knock. Not the cam profile.
---------- Post added at 09:28 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:20 PM ----------
As long as the cam lobes are reprofiled to the specification with accuracy in control, and the surfaces are treated by either nitriding or brickering then a reprofiled/reground camshaft is as good as a billet. After all, it's the same grinding and hardening process that they use to make the so-called billet shafts out of a blank shaft.
A poorly made 'billet shaft' with base circle too big or lobes too high, without precision is even more dangerous to use.
Bugger.
If I had the time to take the damn pic properly I'll remember to shoot your 45 degree face la!---------- Post added at 10:11 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:11 PM ----------
Oh and I hadn't thought about increasing fuel pressure. I'll try that next round b4 I try the big red bottle
Q: does increasing fuel pressure with stock injectors and ECU actually increase the fuel into the cylinder??
2 situations: close-loop & open-loop.
close-loop: near to no difference, as the ECU will take the feedback from O2 sensor and adjust the injectors' duty cycle accordingly to achieve the preset A/F ratio.
open-loop: increase, as the duty cycle is based on the preset fuel mapping, regardless of what the O2 reads.
For cars that run full-time close loop, increasing the fuel pressure will not help delivering more fuel into the cylinder. However, most cars that run on full-time close loop don't have a mechanical regulator. The fuel pressure is controlled by modulating the pulse width of the fuel pump.
For cars that run partial close loop and goes open loop at high speed or high load, more fuel will be delivered in open loop. Same amount of fuel is delivered during close loop. However, since the injectors duty cycle is reduced (imagine smaller opening at higher pressure), the spray will be finer, therefore a certain improvement in the combustion efficiency can be achieved.
Sorry, not sure what you mean by dialed in.
Mine was quite straight forward, take out existing cam, replace with hello kitty billet Pipercam, adjust cam angle (optional step. default 0 degrees) and drive.
Does this answer your question?
thanks iszo for answering my question..dialing in cam in my Q meaning setting the cam timing according to the cam card spec..open/close cam timing etc. which have to use degree wheel+dial indicator..thanks
And the rawwwrrr the Hellokitty cam gives me when I hit the powerband is priceless!
Hellokitty can rawwwrr? hehe..
anyways, any cams that's bigger/higher than the stock one will gives u more power.. u just need a proper timing and the street is yours
Gudluck
(haiya.. when can i afford a bigger cam la???
)
I don't find the need to use dial gauge and degree wheel necessary in most of the case for street tuning. It's 'a proper procedure' but it's not 'the only procedure'.
After all, it's the result that matters. As long as the valves don't hit each other or the pistons, the engine idles well, variable timing mechanism (if available) works without problem, the rest of the tuning is all about getting the desired powerband (which can be done by putting the car on the dyno roller, or roughly on the road).
Who cares if the cam is 'dialed to the spec' if the spec is not what I want? What if I just want it sightly off because i feel better with that?
Unless paying RM350 extra make extra 10 mental HP. I don't care if it's exactly 2.000 cam degrees retarded, all I want to know is how good it performs. I don't care if two lines is exactly 4.000 crank degrees, all I want to know is what kind of difference it makes.
So, dial gauge and degree wheels? Yes, give me an unknown cam I will use those to tell you the spec, just to tell you the spec, nothing else!
After all, it's the result that matters. As long as the valves don't hit each other or the pistons, the engine idles well, variable timing mechanism (if available) works without problem, the rest of the tuning is all about getting the desired powerband (which can be done by putting the car on the dyno roller, or roughly on the road).
Who cares if the cam is 'dialed to the spec' if the spec is not what I want? What if I just want it sightly off because i feel better with that?
Unless paying RM350 extra make extra 10 mental HP. I don't care if it's exactly 2.000 cam degrees retarded, all I want to know is how good it performs. I don't care if two lines is exactly 4.000 crank degrees, all I want to know is what kind of difference it makes.
So, dial gauge and degree wheels? Yes, give me an unknown cam I will use those to tell you the spec, just to tell you the spec, nothing else!
i am just asking Izso whether the installation needs those complicated procedure..if it's straight forward it's great for me because i am interested to install one in my 4g13 and for sure i am not be able to dial in my cam by myself..i am not questioning your setup and sorry if i offended anyone with my Q..it's just an honest Q..anyways thanks for the answer..
Sorry mate. No.. no.. no.. I think you are the one getting upset by my offensive reply. :knuddel:
That was actually a general comment not referring to your question although it was that that sparked my interest in such reply.
Haha... No... It will meow... But it cucuk it, it will scratch...Hellokitty can rawwwrr? hehe..
anyways, any cams that's bigger/higher than the stock one will gives u more power.. u just need a proper timing and the street is yours
Gudluck
(haiya.. when can i afford a bigger cam la???
aiyo, taiko, no proper procedure for noob/beginner ah??
did some tappet adjustment at shop really not satisfying..
If have time, I will get izso to post something about that. But the info is already widely available in teh web so do some personal research first lah.. okay?aiyo, taiko, no proper procedure for noob/beginner ah??
did some tappet adjustment at shop really not satisfying..
Not satisfied with a shop's work? I hope that it's not my shop LOL!!!
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