B16A head + B20B bottom end

ace79

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I've been asking plenty of ppls, read thru plenty of postings about this matter. My conclusion : more BHP, less compression ( the B16A head needs mods for higher comp etc ), lack of durability etc. Some ppl say you cannot floor it as often as a B16A engine. One of my questions : why do i do the frankenstein conversion when i cannot enjoy it as much as i've pushed the B16A on a daily basis?

Opinions on these stages of tune?

1 : B16A head + B20B bottom end + slight tuning works on the head + B20B machined to accept oil injectors for the piston's bottom end.

2 : B16A head + B20B bottom end + slight tuning works on the head + B20B machined to accept oil injectors for the piston's bottom end + better intake manifolds and injectors ( B18C's )

3 : B16A head + B20B bottom end + more tuning works on the head + B20B machined to accept oil injectors for the piston's bottom end + better intake manifolds and injectors ( B18C's ) + stage 2 cams ( Crower, Jun etc ) + adjustable cam pulleys + lighter flywheel.

4 : B16A head + B20B bottom end + more tuning works on the head + B20B machined to accept oil injectors for the piston's bottom end + better intake manifolds and injectors ( B18C's ) + stage 2 cams ( Crower, Jun etc ) + adjustable cam pulleys + lighter flywheel + performance valves, valve springs and titanium retainers.

If the conversion is not reliable for my kind of driving ( confirm everyday throttle hard one, always go for 8k++ rpm gearchanges ) the I suppose I'll just stay with the B16A and tune it..
 
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yes... reliability is questionable on a b20. It really depend on the quality of workmanship that goes into such a conversion. And yes its also advisable to keep the revs to a max of about 8000 rpm as the block was never intended for super high rpm's. But you have to remember that on a b20 you don't really need to go much higher as all the action happens before 8000 rpm anyway...
 
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wah lau weii....

amok : thanks for the link bro..anyone else got suggestions etc?
 
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agreed with minivan, u got all the torque n midrange u want from the B20 before 8K. If u got the budget get TODA high comp piston n reinforce the block of course. For reliability, i heard king bearing is good for a lil' higher rev, but still not as high rev as B16's. Also, i believe, a b20 hybrid could really use a lot of breathing like swapping the IM n header, WITH better cams, at least ITR's, and redo exhaust piping or a good exhaust system to fully utilise the potential of the franken motor. Of course the problem rises when it comes to putting the power to the wheels. Stock clutch cannot stand the B20 ,and will damage or worn out real quick if u let it work too much..
 
ARTA said:
agreed with minivan, u got all the torque n midrange u want from the B20 before 8K. If u got the budget get TODA high comp piston n reinforce the block of course. For reliability, i heard king bearing is good for a lil' higher rev, but still not as high rev as B16's. Also, i believe, a b20 hybrid could really use a lot of breathing like swapping the IM n header, WITH better cams, at least ITR's, and redo exhaust piping or a good exhaust system to fully utilise the potential of the franken motor. Of course the problem rises when it comes to putting the power to the wheels. Stock clutch cannot stand the B20 ,and will damage or worn out real quick if u let it work too much..


ahhh someone good in it ,anyway if poissible stay with stock bearing
 
anybody knows for the frank motor, will changing to stronger rodbolts help?
 
its actually better for reliability..
Bro Jasper : U r the sifu lerr... :)
 
off topic,
ARTA, ur nick choosen fr ARTA NSX aaa?
hehehhe
its stand for Autobacs Racing Team Aguri... is it?
 
Autobacs Racing Team Aguri oso can
Australian Registry of Tourism & Accommodation oso can
American Recorder Teachers Association oso can
American Reusable Textile Associations oso can :P

hehehe yup u r rite. Autobacs Racing Team Aguri :D
 
sad that team lost to 2nd place last japan gt... just remaining 2 lap.... huarghhhh... what la their 2nd driver....
 
ARTA NSX having trouble meeting the JGTC requirement...i forgot, if i'm not mistake , its something to do with the regulation of the air intake on a high rev participating car like nsx...so struggling for the past few seasons since the rule was imposed...
 
danieL said:
anybody knows for the frank motor, will changing to stronger rodbolts help?

help with what? reliability?

all things break......eventually
 
Jasper said:
ahhh someone good in it ,anyway if poissible stay with stock bearing

you mean stock b20 bearings? why huh?
i thought stronger aftermarket ones would be more logical when at higher rpms coupled that fact if you have oil squirters would have tremendous pressure on the bearings... coz the stock bearings are not design for such apllication.. correct me if i'm wrong ler..
 
minivan said:
you mean stock b20 bearings? why huh?
i thought stronger aftermarket ones would be more logical when at higher rpms coupled that fact if you have oil squirters would have tremendous pressure on the bearings... coz the stock bearings are not design for such apllication.. correct me if i'm wrong ler..

how would oil squirters increase the pressure on the bearings? its to cool down the pistons.
the main bearings for all b-series engines r identical. ie a b20b does not have lower speced main bearings compared to a b16a or b18c.
 

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