AFR for 20V on piggyback or standalone

benjaminn78

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Hi all,

would like to know those sifu with piggyback or standalone user, wat is the AFR you using for you 20V? i know most of the Malaysian Tuner will set around 12.5 to 13, but can we set the AFR like 13.5 to 14 (high rev, full throttle), how the engine life span? The question is ask becasue now my AFR is below 13, and is very high fuel consumption.
 

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Re: AFR for 20V on pigguyback or standalone

How bad is the fuel consumption? I thought you are running high cam should be higher fuel consumption?
 
Re: AFR for 20V on pigguyback or standalone

mine very bad too. AFR 13. I am on a standalone system.
 
Re: AFR for 20V on pigguyback or standalone

any sifu might to share the experience?
 
Re: AFR for 20V on pigguyback or standalone

dont know how to help.
last time at 6000rpm, 11.5, 7000rpm at 13, but average at 12.5 using safc.
now at 5000rpm 14.5 to 15, but average at 13. no piggyback, yet. coming one i think.
 
Re: AFR for 20V on pigguyback or standalone

Hi all,

would like to know those sifu with piggyback or standalone user, wat is the AFR you using for you 20V? i know most of the Malaysian Tuner will set around 12.5 to 13, but can we set the AFR like 13.5 to 14 (high rev, full throttle), how the engine life span? The question is ask becasue now my AFR is below 13, and is very high fuel consumption.

different tuner had different tuning setup... can't compare le...
 
Re: AFR for 20V on pigguyback or standalone

ya..different tuner has different setup, just want to have a basic idea which AFR will help on fuel consumption? :)
 
Re: AFR for 20V on pigguyback or standalone

ya..different tuner has different setup, just want to have a basic idea which AFR will help on fuel consumption? :)

the lowest, the highest FC can go...
But the lowest, the risk also increase too
 
Re: AFR for 20V on pigguyback or standalone

For WOT and under load conditions,it is advisable to run rich for safety,i would say your 12.5 to 13 is just nice.You should not worried about fuel consumption when driving fast/redlining every gear because everybody knows fuel economy doesnt apply to that conditions,for fuel economy we concern on part throttle,low load AFR,it should be around range of 14-15.You can lean it up a bit in low load conditions but i wont go over 16 during cruising.Almost all factory ecu cruise at 14-15 AFR.

And also try to smooth driving style,coz if you stomp on the throttle abruptly,'async jet' or 'acceleration enrichment' will inject more fuel to cater for the sudden changes of Throttle position,hence you use more fuel.

Also dont put the car in too much load,some change the gear too fast because afraid the rpm climb up higher and use more fuel,but this does not always true,most ecu calculate fuel using load,if we change gear to fast and lug the engine on the next gear with low rpm to pick up speed,the load will become high and we end up using more fuel.

Also ecu will cut off fuel when throttle is shut and engine is above 1800rpm,make use of it to save fuel during going downhill or any other conditions that may not require engine power.

When tuning AFR,make sure check the ignition timing as well as this two is co related.I would go with AFR first then fiddle with the timing,then recheck AFR.
 
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Re: AFR for 20V on pigguyback or standalone

ic...maybe will try to retune the low rev from 1k to 4k for a bit lean, see any help on fuel consumption...
 
Re: AFR for 20V on pigguyback or standalone

For WOT and under load conditions,it is advisable to run rich for safety,i would say your 12.5 to 13 is just nice.You should not worried about fuel consumption when driving fast/redlining every gear because everybody knows fuel economy doesnt apply to that conditions,for fuel economy we concern on part throttle,low load AFR,it should be around range of 14-15.You can lean it up a bit in low load conditions but i wont go over 16 during cruising.Almost all factory ecu cruise at 14-15 AFR.

And also try to smooth driving style,coz if you stomp on the throttle abruptly,'async jet' or 'acceleration enrichment' will inject more fuel to cater for the sudden changes of Throttle position,hence you use more fuel.

Also dont put the car in too much load,some change the gear too fast because afraid the rpm climb up higher and use more fuel,but this does not always true,most ecu calculate fuel using load,if we change gear to fast and lug the engine on the next gear with low rpm to pick up speed,the load will become high and we end up using more fuel.

Also ecu will cut off fuel when throttle is shut and engine is above 1800rpm,make use of it to save fuel during going downhill or any other conditions that may not require engine power.

When tuning AFR,make sure check the ignition timing as well as this two is co related.I would go with AFR first then fiddle with the timing,then recheck AFR.


agree, condition of the O2 sensor also plays a major role, i have tried few O2 sensor, some showing 13, some showing 14 while cruising... so better check the condition of the sensor also..

for me normal driving is 14, while going hi rev or vvt mode is activate can go as low as 11.5 to protect the engine, and see black smoke coming out while near 7k.. hehe... as for timing, any sifu can mind pointing out how to adjust the valve timing? as i m facing the problem of knocking after going for 7a(non ignition timing related), still cant solve until now.. no longer using vvt pulley, both also adjustable..
 
Re: AFR for 20V on pigguyback or standalone

ya..O2 sensor very important...did your guys has install wideband sensor for permenent use? wat the brand ur using??...plan to install innovate LC-1
 
Re: AFR for 20V on pigguyback or standalone

i m using aem uego, not bad also lah.. may be will remove in the future after done setting, coz the sensor also got life span..
 
Re: AFR for 20V on pigguyback or standalone

Not recommend to use wideband sensor daily,unless you want to replace the sensor once in 7/8 months.The sensor will loose its accuracy over time,innovate recommends to replace the sensor after 500hrs,marketing gimmick or not,dont know.

Even so,some new cars are equipped with wideband sensor from factory,i wonder what is the manufacturer recommendations on sensor replacement.
 
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500hrs very little le. And we can't leave the sensor there without powering up the unit. If it is off and the car still starting (running with stock O2 while this wideband is there), it will spoil also (warning on the manual).
 
Yes....but lets say if we drive our car 3 hours a day,so 500/3 = 167 days,bout 5.5 months,make it 5 months..

But Bosch have done research say that their sensor can last 3000hrs,thats good enough,i need to read on that some more..
 
As most sifus have posted here, AFR for WOT should be between 12.5 to 13 AFR for NA (regardless of RPM), turbo setup should be even more richer. The rule of thumb is to have a smooth AFR which will make the engine run smoother and more even power delivery (powerband). As for cruising, the stock ECU is already doing a good job keeping it between 14.5 to 15.2 AFR. It is also recommended to monitor the EGT as running "too lean" during WOT could increase your EGT which could result in quicker wear & tear or even cause damage on running parts.

FYI, a stock ECU at WOT (with VVT ON), the AFR will start at about 13 AFR and go down to 11.5 AFR during high rev. However, I've also noticed that the AFR will still try to remain between 14-15 AFR although you are revving between 5000-6000rpm with TPS below 25 % (still in closed loop).

As for thread starter, I think it is expected that your FC will skyrocket because if you didn't notice, your engine is pumping out 154 bhp!. This is roughly 25bhp more than a standard 20V BT's output dude. If I was aiming for that kinda power, FC would be least of my worries ;)
 

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