1jz E36 BMW frankensteining

1JZ is an old engine and the throttle position sensor (TPS) has been known to act up causing idling issues. ISCV aka idle speed control valve sometimes known as the IACV @ idle air control valve controls the idling of the engine and should be changed just for good measure. Once everything works, runs good and has no issues - then only mod. One of the biggest mods hybrid E36/46 owners do is the intake manifold. The Greddy one or whatever is bigger and smoother allowing for more air and blah blah blah. Then consider a good aftermarket ECU like Links Extreme and convert your car to DBW. Then single turbo and top feed injectors. Then the differential or final drive. You're not going manual right?
toyota sensors and parts shouldn't be more fragile than mitsubishi i guess. the iscv/tps issue small thing la.

DBW very good remedy, but a little bit expensive, throttle body + Pedal also good 4-6k depends on what size and specs you're going for. not to mention to modify the bracket for it to fit. can introduce auto rev match, can eliminate medieval tech like iscv and all.
 
toyota sensors and parts shouldn't be more fragile than mitsubishi i guess. the iscv/tps issue small thing la.

DBW very good remedy, but a little bit expensive, throttle body + Pedal also good 4-6k depends on what size and specs you're going for. not to mention to modify the bracket for it to fit. can introduce auto rev match, can eliminate medieval tech like iscv and all.

Thanks but no thanks, i am keeping the engine 80% stock, and change out the parts are going bad. Will do a simple remap and upgrading the handling department. With 1 bar boost, 350 hp should be easy to grasp.

Thanks,
Ken
 
Thanks but no thanks, i am keeping the engine 80% stock, and change out the parts are going bad. Will do a simple remap and upgrading the handling department. With 1 bar boost, 350 hp should be easy to grasp.

Thanks,
Ken
yup, agree, touching the dbw will set you back about 10-12k, not to mention proper on-spec engine build which can set about 25k to do a what can be remotely called proper engine build in malaysia. no point unless you're competing in serious competition.

if it is just a fun car, just have it stock, some preventive maintenance upgrade such as radiator, coolers, fuel surge, brush up the handling department. viola, perfect car to do most thing including sepang.
 
First time i heard from ZTH folk asking people not to mod their cars ? Can you elaborate TPS, ISCV ?
My mod was the transplant, there after maintain only also. My mechanic mentioned engine is old already, don't boost any higher unless want to change the internals first or expect some internals to go......lol
 
yup, agree, touching the dbw will set you back about 10-12k, not to mention proper on-spec engine build which can set about 25k to do a what can be remotely called proper engine build in malaysia. no point unless you're competing in serious competition.

if it is just a fun car, just have it stock, some preventive maintenance upgrade such as radiator, coolers, fuel surge, brush up the handling department. viola, perfect car to do most thing including sepang.

I am curious, why mod to drive by wire though ? I have lots of fellas swear on the throttle cable is better than drive by wire. In terms of throttle response, ECU has to be somewhat intercept by a throttle body controller to tell it to open faster.

It is a fun car + semi daily when my main car is in the garage for extended period of time. The autobox is cooled by additional ATF cooler from Hayden. Handling wise, i am going for BC Racing BR Type, as my mechanic hard sell this coilover so much that he swear on his name i won't be disappointed. Stock anti roll bars will be re-used, i am going to custom brackets for a Nismo strut bar that i happen to get when treasure hunting at junkyard. The length is just right ! BMW chassis does not require too many bars to feel solid.
 
My mod was the transplant, there after maintain only also. My mechanic mentioned engine is old already, don't boost any higher unless want to change the internals first or expect some internals to go......lol

I smell bullshit. :rofl:

Thanks,
Ken
 
I am curious, why mod to drive by wire though ? I have lots of fellas swear on the throttle cable is better than drive by wire. In terms of throttle response, ECU has to be somewhat intercept by a throttle body controller to tell it to open faster.

It is a fun car + semi daily when my main car is in the garage for extended period of time. The autobox is cooled by additional ATF cooler from Hayden. Handling wise, i am going for BC Racing BR Type, as my mechanic hard sell this coilover so much that he swear on his name i won't be disappointed. Stock anti roll bars will be re-used, i am going to custom brackets for a Nismo strut bar that i happen to get when treasure hunting at junkyard. The length is just right ! BMW chassis does not require too many bars to feel solid.
DBW if done right can do a lot. Like ESC, rev match, cruise control, hill assist, better fueling control (possibly translated to better FC), and you can install a ETC to control your urges to boost all the time. HAHAHAHA

Anyway, I'm curious to know where you found a BC BR coilover for the car. I asked and I didn't find anyone selling for E36. Also, Nismo strut bar on a BMW? How'd you get it to fit?
 
DBW if done right can do a lot. Like ESC, rev match, cruise control, hill assist, better fueling control (possibly translated to better FC), and you can install a ETC to control your urges to boost all the time. HAHAHAHA

Anyway, I'm curious to know where you found a BC BR coilover for the car. I asked and I didn't find anyone selling for E36. Also, Nismo strut bar on a BMW? How'd you get it to fit?

Hi Izso,

Never knew that DBW can do so much, but well, i am not tempted, try harder :p.

Simple search on mudah.my can see lots of merchandise for E46 coilovers, not E36 though. However, i found Zerone, Gear, Project S and other foreign brands that i never heard of. What's the coilover you are using ?

The Nismo strut bar came from a 350z, we need to fabricate the bracket, i only need the middle part, which the ends of it are locked by Allen key style screws. However still measuring the angle of the bracket so that we can achieve the roll efficiency. Otherwise i will use this for my Lancer as Lancer has more rooms to play. Below is the picture of it. The NISMO wording has to go.
Nismo strut bar..jpg
 
I am curious, why mod to drive by wire though ? I have lots of fellas swear on the throttle cable is better than drive by wire. In terms of throttle response, ECU has to be somewhat intercept by a throttle body controller to tell it to open faster.

It is a fun car + semi daily when my main car is in the garage for extended period of time. The autobox is cooled by additional ATF cooler from Hayden. Handling wise, i am going for BC Racing BR Type, as my mechanic hard sell this coilover so much that he swear on his name i won't be disappointed. Stock anti roll bars will be re-used, i am going to custom brackets for a Nismo strut bar that i happen to get when treasure hunting at junkyard. The length is just right ! BMW chassis does not require too many bars to feel solid.

oh you're in for a treat, going to DBW you can streamline many things, discard a lot of unreliable(today's standard) valving and motors. not to mention, you can program auto rev match, traction control, cruise control, higher level of engine protection. Besides that, modern DBW are as quick if not quicker than mechanical response. Modern ecu chipset are not slow at all.

but despite all that, i understand where are you coming from, and i also agree that a fun + semi daily shouldn't have too much bells and whistles. Your list is pretty decent, maybe you can consider getting the car corner weighted and setup by fawster for next level ride and handling. i have no comment on anti roll bars because i usually run thinner arb as compared to my peers as well as chassis "strengthening/safety" bars. i do not use strut bars as well, cause 1) they're quite useless 2) i cant fit what's on the market now in my engine bay because the bar get in the way of the engine.

but worthy upgrade will be changing all round bushings to PU bush, geometry correction arms and lighter wheels, after that you will feel your car come alive. haha
 
Hi Izso,

Never knew that DBW can do so much, but well, i am not tempted, try harder :p.

Simple search on mudah.my can see lots of merchandise for E46 coilovers, not E36 though. However, i found Zerone, Gear, Project S and other foreign brands that i never heard of. What's the coilover you are using ?

The Nismo strut bar came from a 350z, we need to fabricate the bracket, i only need the middle part, which the ends of it are locked by Allen key style screws. However still measuring the angle of the bracket so that we can achieve the roll efficiency. Otherwise i will use this for my Lancer as Lancer has more rooms to play. Below is the picture of it. The NISMO wording has to go.
View attachment 572214
didnt know izso already mentioned the benefits of DBW. i'd say, try to find a strutbar for bmw, kinda pointless and waste of money modifying this to fit. making bracket would set you back few hundreds bucks already.
 
Hi Izso,

Never knew that DBW can do so much, but well, i am not tempted, try harder :p.

Simple search on mudah.my can see lots of merchandise for E46 coilovers, not E36 though. However, i found Zerone, Gear, Project S and other foreign brands that i never heard of. What's the coilover you are using ?

The Nismo strut bar came from a 350z, we need to fabricate the bracket, i only need the middle part, which the ends of it are locked by Allen key style screws. However still measuring the angle of the bracket so that we can achieve the roll efficiency. Otherwise i will use this for my Lancer as Lancer has more rooms to play. Below is the picture of it. The NISMO wording has to go

I don't need to convince you. I'll just wait for you to go live with your current setup and then I'll wait for you to regret and wish you had done it whilst building... :biggrin:

Actually dunno why I'm grinning. I'm regretting like shit not doing it earlier when I had the budget.

I'm using Ftuned. They custom made everything according to my spec which is based on the bosses own e46 coupe.

Custom making a strut bar? That's madly interesting! And yes, the nismo has to go. HAHAHA
 
I don't need to convince you. I'll just wait for you to go live with your current setup and then I'll wait for you to regret and wish you had done it whilst building... :biggrin:

Actually dunno why I'm grinning. I'm regretting like shit not doing it earlier when I had the budget.

I'm using Ftuned. They custom made everything according to my spec which is based on the bosses own e46 coupe.

Custom making a strut bar? That's madly interesting! And yes, the nismo has to go. HAHAHA
wow izso bangsawan using ftuned :love:
 
oh you're in for a treat, going to DBW you can streamline many things, discard a lot of unreliable(today's standard) valving and motors. not to mention, you can program auto rev match, traction control, cruise control, higher level of engine protection. Besides that, modern DBW are as quick if not quicker than mechanical response. Modern ecu chipset are not slow at all.

but despite all that, i understand where are you coming from, and i also agree that a fun + semi daily shouldn't have too much bells and whistles. Your list is pretty decent, maybe you can consider getting the car corner weighted and setup by fawster for next level ride and handling. i have no comment on anti roll bars because i usually run thinner arb as compared to my peers as well as chassis "strengthening/safety" bars. i do not use strut bars as well, cause 1) they're quite useless 2) i cant fit what's on the market now in my engine bay because the bar get in the way of the engine.

but worthy upgrade will be changing all round bushings to PU bush, geometry correction arms and lighter wheels, after that you will feel your car come alive. haha

The wiring man will marry the stock traction control with the Toyota ECU, and rev matching is not really necessary for my auto box (i am not sorry). Strut tower bar mainly is decoration to me, since i don't have much bling nor a big turbo is the engine bay unlike Izso's. I would do high flow upgrade to the CT15 to get at least 1.3 bar of boost with the cost of RM1,500.

Bushings are in my next bucket lists as well as geometry correction arms. Wheels i stick to stock, sleeper look. If needed larger brakes i will install 20mm spacer. The stock E46 coupe has amazing solid feel on it, so i would think those chassis upgrades can make it feel like a proper modify car.

Thanks,
Ken
 
I don't need to convince you. I'll just wait for you to go live with your current setup and then I'll wait for you to regret and wish you had done it whilst building... :biggrin:

Actually dunno why I'm grinning. I'm regretting like shit not doing it earlier when I had the budget.

I'm using Ftuned. They custom made everything according to my spec which is based on the bosses own e46 coupe.

Custom making a strut bar? That's madly interesting! And yes, the nismo has to go. HAHAHA

You are driving a manual one, of course you would want the best out of your ride. Are you on standalone ECU or piggyback?

Dang thats some expensive coilover, i heard good things about them. Glad to see their bosses own E46 coupe too. However i got a sweet deal to BC BR, lets try it out sometimes to see the differences of it. Care to join gymkana ?

YUP, thats the whole point of my car project, custom made whatever i can ! I will think of what should i brand the strut bar with.

Thanks,
Ken
 
wow izso bangsawan using ftuned :love:
Wow.. I know a certain owner with Ftuned Mivec Satria who also dailies a new model Myvi :thefinger:

DBW good leh, just wished my campro DBW is the good one.
Is the campro DBW slow because of the ECU or the TB itself?

The wiring man will marry the stock traction control with the Toyota ECU, and rev matching is not really necessary for my auto box (i am not sorry). Strut tower bar mainly is decoration to me, since i don't have much bling nor a big turbo is the engine bay unlike Izso's. I would do high flow upgrade to the CT15 to get at least 1.3 bar of boost with the cost of RM1,500.

Bushings are in my next bucket lists as well as geometry correction arms. Wheels i stick to stock, sleeper look. If needed larger brakes i will install 20mm spacer. The stock E46 coupe has amazing solid feel on it, so i would think those chassis upgrades can make it feel like a proper modify car.

Thanks,
Ken
WAh... I wanna mod my Holset HX35 with better fins and all for less lag! Apparently my setup now is meant for truck use. If you find any Superpro bushes that you wanna buy let me know. I'll hook u up with the main distributor and perhaps would could both buy off him and get further discounts. I know the fella personally.

As for stock rims, what size is your 'stock rims'? I can't go with stock in my case, I think stock is 15" and it's too small to clear my calipers.

You are driving a manual one, of course you would want the best out of your ride. Are you on standalone ECU or piggyback?

Dang thats some expensive coilover, i heard good things about them. Glad to see their bosses own E46 coupe too. However i got a sweet deal to BC BR, lets try it out sometimes to see the differences of it. Care to join gymkana ?

YUP, thats the whole point of my car project, custom made whatever i can ! I will think of what should i brand the strut bar with.

Thanks,
Ken
My car came with something somewhat of a standalone. The original ECU is not there anymore but the standalone is too simple to be 'good enough'. It runs and it works, but it's not good enough to manage cams and hot-idling. Stupid ECU is the first thing that'll go if I find the budget.

FTuned isn't as expensive as other brands. BC is cheaper though granted. Where'd you get the set from? I asked a friend who was selling this and he told me they don't make for E36. I think the 46 shares the same suspension setup right? Gymkana with a laggy turbo 1jz that can't even idle stable when hot? Sure why not. HAHAHAHAHA
 
Wow.. I know a certain owner with Ftuned Mivec Satria who also dailies a new model Myvi :thefinger:
hmm.. that friend of yours sounds quite dumb one i know.

My car came with something somewhat of a standalone. The original ECU is not there anymore but the standalone is too simple to be 'good enough'. It runs and it works, but it's not good enough to manage cams and hot-idling. Stupid ECU is the first thing that'll go if I find the budget.

FTuned isn't as expensive as other brands. BC is cheaper though granted. Where'd you get the set from? I asked a friend who was selling this and he told me they don't make for E36. I think the 46 shares the same suspension setup right? Gymkana with a laggy turbo 1jz that can't even idle stable when hot? Sure why not. HAHAHAHAHA

Hahaha, the south african ecu that earn you a lot of curse word from your mech :3
Link G4+ Xtreme :love: manual mah, laggy turbo can gymkhana one :listen: janji the longshaft not welded dead. haha
 
Wow.. I know a certain owner with Ftuned Mivec Satria who also dailies a new model Myvi :thefinger:


Is the campro DBW slow because of the ECU or the TB itself?


WAh... I wanna mod my Holset HX35 with better fins and all for less lag! Apparently my setup now is meant for truck use. If you find any Superpro bushes that you wanna buy let me know. I'll hook u up with the main distributor and perhaps would could both buy off him and get further discounts. I know the fella personally.

As for stock rims, what size is your 'stock rims'? I can't go with stock in my case, I think stock is 15" and it's too small to clear my calipers.


My car came with something somewhat of a standalone. The original ECU is not there anymore but the standalone is too simple to be 'good enough'. It runs and it works, but it's not good enough to manage cams and hot-idling. Stupid ECU is the first thing that'll go if I find the budget.

FTuned isn't as expensive as other brands. BC is cheaper though granted. Where'd you get the set from? I asked a friend who was selling this and he told me they don't make for E36. I think the 46 shares the same suspension setup right? Gymkana with a laggy turbo 1jz that can't even idle stable when hot? Sure why not. HAHAHAHAHA

I bought a set of E90 M-Sport rims 8JJ ET25 clearance if i am not wrong, can clear the future 4 pots that i am about to get from AP Racing. My mech has a personal friend with the distributor here, so he hook me up pretty decent price. Now just picking between V1 and BR Type.

LOL sounds like you 1Jz is plagued with some issues, why not get a manual 1JZ ecu, promptly install with F-CON IS and call it a day? I have either a Unichip Q or Emanage here with me to choose from. Which one is better for my autobox ?

Thanks,
Ken
 
Its the settings itself, can be fast I think
So technically if you opted to go standalone and use say a Links ECU to control the DBW it should be able to make it more responsive?

hmm.. that friend of yours sounds quite dumb one i know.

Hahaha, the south african ecu that earn you a lot of curse word from your mech :3
Link G4+ Xtreme :love: manual mah, laggy turbo can gymkhana one :listen: janji the longshaft not welded dead. haha
that friend of mine is is a dumbass. :biggrin: But he track his Myvi new car like a proooooo

links xTreme I mahu.. but I boh budget. i need to fast fast sell my lens so fund my ECU

I bought a set of E90 M-Sport rims 8JJ ET25 clearance if i am not wrong, can clear the future 4 pots that i am about to get from AP Racing. My mech has a personal friend with the distributor here, so he hook me up pretty decent price. Now just picking between V1 and BR Type.

LOL sounds like you 1Jz is plagued with some issues, why not get a manual 1JZ ecu, promptly install with F-CON IS and call it a day? I have either a Unichip Q or Emanage here with me to choose from. Which one is better for my autobox ?

Thanks,
Ken
Having friends with distributors is always awesome. I have AP Racing calipers just waiting for installation. I can't afford it yet.. sigh.

I can't go back to stock ECU already, the wiring is too messed up. Only solution is go straight to a proper ecu linke the Links Xtreme one or Haltech Elite
 

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