Proton Wira/Persona Fuse Box Diagram?

My bad that I haven't manually tested by pulling the fuel hose or testing the spark at the plugs. Need to find someone to turn the key to crank the engine when I do that.

On most mornings I have to work. On the days when I dont have to work, I get up too late. My bad.

Yah! bro. sweelt was faster. Wanted to mention check whether fuel coming or not and whether there is spark at spark plugs....:driver:
 
My bad that I haven't manually tested by pulling the fuel hose or testing the spark at the plugs. Need to find someone to turn the key to crank the engine when I do that.

On most mornings I have to work. On the days when I dont have to work, I get up too late. My bad.
Fuel ada. Spark nowhere to be seen. Still sleeping I guess.

Next step is to figure out how to test the ignition upstream like this article - http://easyautodiagnostics.com/mitsubishi/3.0L/ignition-system-tests-5

Since the Plug < Wire < Coils < Power TR are new, I guess I should rule them out and start with the Crank/Cam sensor unit

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Color & order of the wiring is dissimilar. Have to trial/error to see if I can figure it out.
 

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Was checking the camshaft sensor. Halfway through, my attention got diverted. Share video with you. Car was able to start when video was made. Note the sound it makes when I plug/unplug the sensor's connector


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From what I can make of it, one part is the fuel pressuring in the rail. Not too sure about the whirring sound. When car is unable to start, it won't have this sound & there's no current to the sensors. So this leads me to go upstream to the MPI/MFI relay.

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After inspection, the relay seems to be working properly. Test by back probing the connector while car was unable to start.


Sigh, nowhere else to look at except the place I dread going to; the ECU. Think I may need to remove the dash before I can get to it
 

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For anyone that may be interested, here's the schematics for the MFI relay

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Due to dwindling stocks, the price of the MFI relay has gone up substantially. Now about RM260. IMO, it's not worth that much. Better to get a separate 30A relay and wire it parallel to the original. The schematics will help you
 

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Sigh, nowhere else to look at except the place I dread going to; the ECU. Think I may need to remove the dash before I can get to it

Come to think of it after reading your last sentence, it may be the ECU.
Why? got me thinking of my VR problem years ago. My VR will at times just die off. Mechanic check and no fuel being pumped. First thing knock the pump and it works. Few days later will die off, so mechanic say best change the pump. Pump changed and last about a week or two, then engine will die off again. He also scratch head already. Electric power to pump is okay but pump not working buy pump changed already. Take out pump and power it direct it works. Fit back and it runs but after a few days it will not work again. Finally met an ECU guy and he says something wrong with ECU. After changed ECU, so far no such issues any more, like for the last 13 to 14 years already.....:driver:
Maybe you can borrow an ECU try first before changing.....lol:biggrin:
 
Maybe you can borrow an ECU try first before changing...

Have to trace the wires that leads from ECU to ignition. Then when cannot start, check if there's voltage from corresponding point at ECU. I am hoping it may be just a frayed wire.

So far, once it has started & run once, it runs perfectly for the rest of the day. By that I mean there's no irregular running. Maybe does not require an ECU replacement.
 
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Have to trace the wires that leads from ECU to ignition. Then when cannot start, check if there's voltage from corresponding point at ECU. I am hoping it may be just a frayed wire.

So far, once it has started & run once, it runs perfectly for the rest of the day. By that I mean there's no irregular running. Maybe does not require an ECU replacement.

Mine when it runs, it runs perfect too, but once stop, engine dies off and cannot start.....lol
 

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