4G93T Club

wastegate not opening can be because it's jammed up....that would definitely cause an overboost...
 
maybe there's a vacuum leak somewhere..??have u checked all hoses for any leaks?
anyways, check compression and timing also...
have u checked for any error codes..?
 
maybe there's a vacuum leak somewhere..??have u checked all hoses for any leaks?
anyways, check compression and timing also...
have u checked for any error codes..?

Ok bro....lemme check again..error code meaning,ecu reading?
 
sometimes error codes appear even though check engine light does not flash/appear all the time...
my fren also bought a cheap wastegate for about 2 months, then overboost occured also...
bought another 1 and now, working quite fine....sometimes it just depends on luck...
 
don't press your luck on cheap knock off wastegates. overboost could cause your engine to break! that could cost your more money to replace the damaged parts instead of investing in an original TIAL/TURBOSMART wastegate in the first place.

Tial MVS 38mm genuine cost Turbosmart Ultra-Gate38 (new version) is now at MYR770.00 complete with flanges.
I have them if you are looking for fail proof boost control.

unlike blow off valve at least your engine won't overboost.. so I won't use luck for performance!
 
don't press your luck on cheap knock off wastegates. overboost could cause your engine to break! that could cost your more money to replace the damaged parts instead of investing in an original TIAL/TURBOSMART wastegate in the first place.

Tial MVS 38mm genuine cost Turbosmart Ultra-Gate38 (new version) is now at MYR770.00 complete with flanges.
I have them if you are looking for fail proof boost control.

unlike blow off valve at least your engine won't overboost.. so I won't use luck for performance!

ofcourse cannot argue with u on this....ori is the way to go
 
I've heard that our engines are designed to run best with quite LEAN settings...is that true??

At idle & light crusing speed/loads you should aim for AFR of 14.7 - 14.9
When in boost say at 1bar you should be aiming for 11.0 - 12.0 (depending on quality of petrol being used)

It is best get it done on the dyno to yield good power and it runs smoothly. Eg: Some engine with wild-camshafts cannot idle at AFR 14.7 it need a richer mixture to get stable idle.

You can run slightly leaner if engine knocking is not present and ignition timing is considered ideal.

Anything leaner might result in a stumbling engine and eventually may cause pistons to break.
 
Guys,

Sorry to be interrupting the conversation that is already going on. I just couldnt seem to find a better place to post my questions. Please bear with me.

Background
Its been quite sometime since i last visited the site, it was back in 2008 when i wanted a GSR Auto Halfcut. Got a 4g93t Auto RS halfcut and converted the car. Was actively using the car for the first 1.5 years, after which the car has been lying idle. Was thinking off selling the car for the past few months as i already have another car, but just didnt have the hearts to let go. I use a GSR but am not technically very competent, and didnt mod (only exhaust and drop in filter) or had any repairs since conversion. But of recent, am facing some problems (maybe cos never really touch the car for soo long) and am just thinking of doing some mods.

Questions
Would really appreciate it if you guys can help me out with my questions.

1. Car seems not as fast or responsive as before. How much would a overhaul cost? Whats the diff btw top overhaul and full overhaul (my car mileage is 105k).

2. Is it necessary to change the fuel regulator (am using my original 1.5 fuel pump)? Do we get extra HP for it? What is some of the good one's and how much would it cost?

3. Can i use a 'open pod' air filter for an auto car?

4. The turning radius is really bad, wanna do u-turn must be careful. (Could it be because the halfcut i got was a Libero GT Halfcut). Am only using 195/55/15 inch rims the rims are already jetting out of the body by almost 0.5 inch from the body

Sorry for the long long essay guys!:confused:
 
Last edited:
Guys,

Sorry to be interrupting the conversation that is already going on. I just couldnt seem to find a better place to post my questions. Please bear with me.

Background
Its been quite sometime since i last visited the site, it was back in 2008 when i wanted a GSR Auto Halfcut. Got a 4g93t Auto RS halfcut and converted the car. Was actively using the car for the first 1.5 years, after which the car has been lying idle. Was thinking off selling the car for the past few months as i already have another car, but just didnt have the hearts to let go. I use a GSR but am not technically very competent, and didnt mod (only exhaust and drop in filter) or had any repairs since conversion. But of recent, am facing some problems (maybe cos never really touch the car for soo long) and am just thinking of doing some mods.

Questions
Would really appreciate it if you guys can help me out with my questions.

1. Car seems not as fast or responsive as before. How much would a overhaul cost? Whats the diff btw top overhaul and full overhaul (my car mileage is 105k).

2. Is it necessary to change the fuel regulator (am using my original 1.5 fuel pump)? Do we get extra HP for it? What is some of the good one's and how much would it cost?

3. Can i use a 'open pod' air filter for an auto car?

4. The turning radius is really bad, wanna do u-turn must be careful. (Could it be because the halfcut i got was a Libero GT Halfcut). Am only using 195/55/15 inch rims the rims are already jetting out of the body by almost 0.5 inch from the body

Sorry for the long long essay guys!:confused:

1. B4 overhaul try to check ur compression 1st, for GSR should be around 1-2k and then depends on the workmanship. I would definitely check on the turbo since u mention not as responsive

2. Fuel regulator or Fuel pump ? If ur using ur ori fuel pump u definitely need to change it, it might be the cause of problem if u "feel" ur car not so fast or responsive, else it could be ur air filter or exhaust got stuck ? Too long never drive or start also could cause it. Btw did u change ur engine oil ?

3. Should be fine, so far most cars go open pod also no prob, more fresh air more bhp, more effenciency, more petrol burnt, never heard anything bad bout open pod unless u use those el cheapo stuff which might get sucked in by ur intake and damage ur turbo.

4. Most mitsu have bad turning radius, 4.1 or 5 was it ? I never do quick u-turn on them. There's mods to improve it, but it involves cutting and welding, I dun reli recommend it.

Hope I could answer most of ur questions, most important is b4 u whack ur car, did u let it warm up 1st ? Most people I notice they dun reli let their car warm up and end up hurting their engine. Unless u been driving ur car actively, else after a long break u should let it warm up 1st b4 whacking certain parts of our engine including turbo needs engine oil to seep inside it to work effectively.
Try to check ur intake, exhaust, turbo, engine and ignition. Not sure if u got start ur car once a while, or tottaly left it there coz water dew might collect due to rain, or worst flood. :biggrin:
 
Bro Solty8, thanks a lot for the info.

- i will check the turbo whether it needs servicing or not.
- Almost 5 months never touch the car, so i think i will change the engine oil. Could also be the reason why the engine feels very rough.
- am using the 1.5 fuel pump. I still have the ori GSR fuel pump. Is that sufficient? or is an aftermarket fuel pump like walbro better? And is a fuel regulator necessary?

Any good place that u can recommend for me to check and service the turbo? estimated price how much bro?
 
hi guys,

just wanna share ask for your opinion..

i just change my clutch to exedy racing clutch. bought RM850. reason because the old one is not good anymore, the engine is shakes when it start to run (gear 1 and reverse)

the clutch is satisfied at first. the grip and pickup is better. the problem is when it come to traffic jamm. gear 1 always stuck (sounds krrrkkk) only when traffic jam. i need to go to gear 2 first then change to gear 1 then there is no krrrkkk sound. But when traffic is clear there is no problem in gear 1 (no krrrkkkk and no need to go to gear 2)

Do you hv any idea why this krrrkkk sound occur? please advise!:confused:

TQ
 
Bro Solty8, thanks a lot for the info.

- i will check the turbo whether it needs servicing or not.
- Almost 5 months never touch the car, so i think i will change the engine oil. Could also be the reason why the engine feels very rough.
- am using the 1.5 fuel pump. I still have the ori GSR fuel pump. Is that sufficient? or is an aftermarket fuel pump like walbro better? And is a fuel regulator necessary?

Any good place that u can recommend for me to check and service the turbo? estimated price how much bro?

5 months never touch means u won't know what happen to ur car, was it parked inside a garage ? Or outside gettin rain and sun ? Sometimes condensation could happen and water seep into places we never want it to go especially inside our engine or spark area. Another reason could be the fuel pump have problem edi, not sure how it happens but usually if a car is slow or can't start usually I check the battery , spark or fuel pump.

The GSR fuel pump should be much better and could feed ur car with as much fuel it needs as possible. If u wanna soup up ur car can always go for bigger fuel pump since ur takin it out to do a swap but unless u wana spend more best is to use ori. Fuel regulator I haven't use yet, so no comment some say very effecient, some say nothing much. Oil catch tank is quite good actually especially if ur using 4wd oil tank.

To check and service depends on ur area, if ur a diy guy u can always do it on ur own. Price to check usually from RM 50 - few hundred depends on where and how they charge labour. Some places very friendly, don't mind if u bring ur own parts or buy from halfcut shop while others will insist u use the parts they source from.

---------- Post added at 07:30 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:18 PM ----------

hi guys,

just wanna share ask for your opinion..

i just change my clutch to exedy racing clutch. bought RM850. reason because the old one is not good anymore, the engine is shakes when it start to run (gear 1 and reverse)

the clutch is satisfied at first. the grip and pickup is better. the problem is when it come to traffic jamm. gear 1 always stuck (sounds krrrkkk) only when traffic jam. i need to go to gear 2 first then change to gear 1 then there is no krrrkkk sound. But when traffic is clear there is no problem in gear 1 (no krrrkkkk and no need to go to gear 2)

Do you hv any idea why this krrrkkk sound occur? please advise!:confused:

TQ

U just change ur clutch ? How bout the cover ? Bearing ? Mind givin more info bout ur car ? Which type of 4G93T ? CM series or CD series ?
One thing u can try, release ur clutch without stepping on the accelerator, slowly release ur clutch try and listen if got any funny sound ? And how ur car react ? Is it very jerky ? Then next try to accelerate abit, around 1k - 2k while releasing ur clutch try to notice anything weird ? Since it's a new clutch it might require running in as well, dun "race" ur clutch drive so much b4 5000 miles or 5000 km according to exedy. "Race" as in drag racing ur clutch rev high high then release the clutch.
Another thing is r u sure the sound is from ur clutch ? It could be something else like mounting or absorbers and so happen those parts loosen or worn out at wrong timing. :biggrin:
 
5 months never touch means u won't know what happen to ur car, was it parked inside a garage ? Or outside gettin rain and sun ? Sometimes condensation could happen and water seep into places we never want it to go especially inside our engine or spark area. Another reason could be the fuel pump have problem edi, not sure how it happens but usually if a car is slow or can't start usually I check the battery , spark or fuel pump.

The GSR fuel pump should be much better and could feed ur car with as much fuel it needs as possible. If u wanna soup up ur car can always go for bigger fuel pump since ur takin it out to do a swap but unless u wana spend more best is to use ori. Fuel regulator I haven't use yet, so no comment some say very effecient, some say nothing much. Oil catch tank is quite good actually especially if ur using 4wd oil tank.

To check and service depends on ur area, if ur a diy guy u can always do it on ur own. Price to check usually from RM 50 - few hundred depends on where and how they charge labour. Some places very friendly, don't mind if u bring ur own parts or buy from halfcut shop while others will insist u use the parts they source from.

---------- Post added at 07:30 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:18 PM ----------



U just change ur clutch ? How bout the cover ? Bearing ? Mind givin more info bout ur car ? Which type of 4G93T ? CM series or CD series ?
One thing u can try, release ur clutch without stepping on the accelerator, slowly release ur clutch try and listen if got any funny sound ? And how ur car react ? Is it very jerky ? Then next try to accelerate abit, around 1k - 2k while releasing ur clutch try to notice anything weird ? Since it's a new clutch it might require running in as well, dun "race" ur clutch drive so much b4 5000 miles or 5000 km according to exedy. "Race" as in drag racing ur clutch rev high high then release the clutch.
Another thing is r u sure the sound is from ur clutch ? It could be something else like mounting or absorbers and so happen those parts loosen or worn out at wrong timing. :biggrin:

Hi solty8,

thank you for your reply.

yes i change everything include clutch bearing, cover, and also clutch pump. i use 4g93t install in staria. not sure about the series. later i will inform.

i think the sound is from gear box but definitely not from absorber or mounting . i dunno whether my gear box is not in good condition or what. but how come the krrrkkk sounds only when traffic jam? :bawling::bawling:
 
if u r driving normal satria/gti/r3, then it's CD5a gsr, if u using satria neo/waja/gen2, then it's CM5a lo..are there vibrations at ur clutch pedal when u accelerate on 1st gear?..
 

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