Which Setup Will u go for??

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ahchuan

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hello,
i'm currently running a b16a, plan to rebuild my engine after CNY.
coz, my engine bering very noisy,valve noisy, leaking black oil every where, need to overhaul oledy... (i drove <65,000km in last year)salesman ma.. but i had oledy get another car for my job, so plan to rebuild my baby.
my budget is around 5-7k(+-) , what's in my mind is:
1)using b16a block,but Change everything to type-r(Piston, cam,intake...) and E-manage.
2)Buy a complete B16b engine w/o gearbox. (Can plug n play wif my current wiring?) and E-manage
3)Get a close ratio gearbox and rebuild back wif b16a setup.
4)B20b setup
5)Suggestion...???
which option i will spend it for getting the most highest or best HP/Setup ??
my dream is putting turbo, but it cost me alot, around 10-15k.. worry about the maintance and cant tahan lama. hard core user here..haha..
 
huh?? y got a colgate advertisment below my post????????????????
 
buy a b18c r block then over haul it back your top n put 2 type r cam n emanage
thats will oredi tide up ur budget
if u still think u can takeout more budget then only setup your gearbox for drag use...
 
The no 1 set up are good enuf with fine tune.Will get around 150++hp.
 
The no 1 set up are good enuf with fine tune.Will get around 150++hp.


huh.. wif the setup i thought can get 160-170whp le.. haha.
coz lastime i dyno-ed i got 140+whp, all standard but got a vafc.
 
one more things, with a stock b16a gearbox, at 5th gear, running on highway, how many rmp while at 120km/h??? mine is around 4200rpm@120km/h. how about yours?
 
hmm..plan to do almost the same thing..
1)toda up my b16a (cam,valve spring,etc )or..
2)buy b16b engine kosong

which one better eh?
 
hmm..plan to do almost the same thing..
1)toda up my b16a (cam,valve spring,etc )or..
2)buy b16b engine kosong

which one better eh?

ctr cam good already.
play with ur gearbox man...u will enjoy it.
my 2 cent.
 
Close Ratio = Change Synco every 12 months on B-Series Gearbox (if u rev everyday - sounds like u will do that)

Toda = Change Timing Belt Every Year (u need a fully-PGMFI and pistons to enjoy.
So gearbox is is cheaper, but u need to upgrade your suspension (bush, damper & brakes & seat) to really enjoy..........$$$$
 
need to change syncro every year?sounds like not reliable..what if, change final drive and upgrade to ctr cam?would the power ouput be significant?
 
based on the background :
-salesman
-worry about maintenance

based on the options given only :
- no.2 would be best and robust
 
need to change syncro every year?sounds like not reliable..what if, change final drive and upgrade to ctr cam?would the power ouput be significant?


Reliable - lightweight honda gearbox like that - 1 year is very good is you gila gila rev 8,400 r.pm 1st,2nd,3rd,4th,5th (no reverse!!:itsme: :itsme: :itsme: ) and shift like racing driver -

EVERYDAY.

Normal drive synchro should last longer


TODA - play toda also need to change timimg belt
 
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i wud go for no.2 bro......it wud b a beta daily driver....
 
A B16B complete engine plus management will set u back more than 7K if labor cost included. Unless u can find cheap B16B or B18CR .... I also want one.. hehehehehe
 
My setup choice would be building the b16a if only 5-7K

Cams + valvetrain (2-3K, new)
Higher comp pistons (B16B) (6-700?, not sure, new)
ARP bolts for the bottom end/main studs (480+, new)
Management(2-4K, unichip, emanage, hondata, choose your poison)
Now that's nowhere near the 5-7K budget you mentioned, but stripping down the engine will reveal many seals and stuff you'd need to replace, so that's what you should do with the rest of the money.

I've spent more than 3K just to mod the B16a head alone, so it's obvious your mileage will vary.
 
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now i think with that 7k can build a 200hp atw b16a... :)

nah.. that's near impossible if you want to retain air-cond and powersteering.

I'm estimating around 180-190atw, at 9K rpm

10,000 rpm B16A, possible, I think.

The main issue is trying to get the peak torque to be in the 7-7.5K range to ensure you hit that kind of hp at peak rpm of 8-9. if 10Krpm engine, peak should be around 7800-8000 rpm, that's easier said than done, there's always some sort of flow restriction that keeps the peak at the 6-7K range. I think porting is the next logical step, but I'm not so sure about recommending any sort of porting work.

Those C&C ported heads are nice, but EXPENSIVE.... very much so.
 
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