Advice for new setup

[Veloc]

Hi all ICE sifus and players...

Got a question about upgrading my car's sound system considering that only ONE speaker is playing now. Hope to get some good advice in layman terms as I am a complete noob in sound system. i only know what sounds nice and what doesn't.

My current setup is Pioneer DEH-1950G head unit (1 rca), 2 x 6 inch front midbass and tweeter, 2 x rear midbass, and a 2 channel amp powering a subwoofer.

My question is,

1.) If I would like to change the front to component system, and use a 4 channel amp to power the component system and the rear midbass, do I need to rewire the whole system? If yes, I may consider not putting in an amp.

2.) If I do not put an amp, will the sound quality be sufficient/better than before (before using only 6" midbass)?

Thank you...

 

[6UE5t]

Hi all ICE sifus and players...

Got a question about upgrading my car's sound system considering that only ONE speaker is playing now. Hope to get some good advice in layman terms as I am a complete noob in sound system. i only know what sounds nice and what doesn't.

My current setup is Pioneer DEH-1950G head unit (1 rca), 2 x 6 inch front midbass and tweeter, 2 x rear midbass, and a 2 channel amp powering a subwoofer.

My question is,

1.) If I would like to change the front to component system, and use a 4 channel amp to power the component system and the rear midbass, do I need to rewire the whole system? If yes, I may consider not putting in an amp.

2.) If I do not put an amp, will the sound quality be sufficient/better than before (before using only 6" midbass)?

Thank you...

I'm no ICE sifu but here are my thoughts:
1. Since your HU only has 1 pair of RCA but you want to power 2 amps now, that means you need to split out the RCA using a Y branch/connector, one going to the 4 channel amp and the other to the 2 channel for the sub. Note that your 4 channel amp should have the capability to play all 4 with only 2 channel input (or else you'd need another Y branch). Note also this is normally not recommended since it will reduce the voltage output from the HU so quality & power would not be as good. Then you'd also need to reroute the speaker wires. Another option is to use the RCA only to drive the 4 channel amp and use the HU speaker output to drive the sub amp (if the amp has this capability) but again this is also not recommended since line speaker output is already more distorted.
2. Depends on your component speaker. If much better quality than the current then you can hear the difference. Also have to note the continuous (RMS) power handling of the speaker compared to your HU output. If your component system has >50W rms, then better to drive using amp since normally HU output is only 20-25W rms with max 40-50W at best.

My suggestion is to change your HU first with at least one with 4 channel and minimal 4V RCA output. Use channel 1 & 2 to drive the component and channel 3 & 4 to drive the sub, leave the rear without power amp (drive them straight from the HU). This will give a lot more improvement and more tuning capability/flexibility.

Btw ICE sifus can CMIIW since my knowledge is very minimal here.

 

[Izso]

1.) If I would like to change the front to component system, and use a 4 channel amp to power the component system and the rear midbass, do I need to rewire the whole system? If yes, I may consider not putting in an amp.

2.) If I do not put an amp, will the sound quality be sufficient/better than before (before using only 6" midbass)?

Thank you...

Oh wow.. I finally get to advise sifu veloc on something!

Ok first of all whats your budget? The simplest and easiest combination for you would be :

Your existing HU--> 4-channel amp--> Component speakers (passive xover) and sub.

Meaning the 4-channel will power your sub and your front speakers. Leave the rear door speakers connected to the HU not the amp.

If you do it this way then the wiring is very easy since it'll all be in the front only assuming your amp is going under your seat. Wiring for this kind of setup is quite easy to do and for someone like you who knows how to strip bare your car, it won't be a problem.

My advice is first decide on a budget. Get a brand new setup of component speakers (tweeters, midbass and crossover), sell off that 2-channel amp and get a proper 4 channel amp that'll support both your sub and your component speakers. What sub are you using? How did you wire it? 1ohm? 2ohm? 4ohm? Depending on what sub you use, choose your 4-channel based on that. Not all 4-channels can properly power a sub at the right impedance.

 

[Veloc]

Oh wow.. I finally get to advise sifu veloc on something!

Ok first of all whats your budget? The simplest and easiest combination for you would be :

Your existing HU--> 4-channel amp--> Component speakers (passive xover) and sub.

Meaning the 4-channel will power your sub and your front speakers. Leave the rear door speakers connected to the HU not the amp.

If you do it this way then the wiring is very easy since it'll all be in the front only assuming your amp is going under your seat. Wiring for this kind of setup is quite easy to do and for someone like you who knows how to strip bare your car, it won't be a problem.

My advice is first decide on a budget. Get a brand new setup of component speakers (tweeters, midbass and crossover), sell off that 2-channel amp and get a proper 4 channel amp that'll support both your sub and your component speakers. What sub are you using? How did you wire it? 1ohm? 2ohm? 4ohm? Depending on what sub you use, choose your 4-channel based on that. Not all 4-channels can properly power a sub at the right impedance.

Lol I no sifu la..

And thanks for you advice!!! You really hit the bullseye. I never thought of that. Using amp for the front component sets and rear subwoof! Well I don't have a budget in mind. But as low as possible. I hope 300. Since nowadays people sell speakers and amps in bundle prices, I think I may get just around 400.

Just one concern... If I use amp for front components and the rear woofer, and my rear speakers (near the headrest, not the doors) directly from the HU, won't that be a bit imbalance? Will it sound ugly and silent at the back? Like the sound will sound really nice and clear and the back will be overpowered by the bass. If not, I really don't mind using your setup.

---------- Post added at 10:19 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:17 PM ----------

Oh and I do not know about the rear whether 1 ohm or 2 ohm or what... I don't even know there is a difference and what it does. Im an idiot in these sound things. I just sent it to the shop and ask them to do it. I just know whether it's nice to hear or not

 

[6UE5t]

Lol I no sifu la..

And thanks for you advice!!! You really hit the bullseye. I never thought of that. Using amp for the front component sets and rear subwoof! Well I don't have a budget in mind. But as low as possible. I hope 300. Since nowadays people sell speakers and amps in bundle prices, I think I may get just around 400.

Just one concern... If I use amp for front components and the rear woofer, and my rear speakers (near the headrest, not the doors) directly from the HU, won't that be a bit imbalance? Will it sound ugly and silent at the back? Like the sound will sound really nice and clear and the back will be overpowered by the bass. If not, I really don't mind using your setup.

---------- Post added at 10:19 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:17 PM ----------

Oh and I do not know about the rear whether 1 ohm or 2 ohm or what... I don't even know there is a difference and what it does. Im an idiot in these sound things. I just sent it to the shop and ask them to do it. I just know whether it's nice to hear or not

Rear speakers are just for rear fill ambiance only, so no need to spend much on it especially if you're on a tight budget. Focus always at the front bcoz that's determines your sound staging/imaging which should be like hearing a concert up front. If your rear is equally powered, then your sound will get pulled a bit to the rear, hence it will be a bit messy. FYI, some purist even do away without any rear speakers!

Usually normal car speakers are 4 ohm avg. impedance. Those which can be lower are usually the subs. The lower the impedance, the more power will be delivered to the speakers and it will get louder. However your amp also must be able to drive at such low impedance or else it will get overheated and burnt!

 

[Veloc]

Rear speakers are just for rear fill ambiance only, so no need to spend much on it especially if you're on a tight budget. Focus always at the front bcoz that's determines your sound staging/imaging which should be like hearing a concert up front. If your rear is equally powered, then your sound will get pulled a bit to the rear, hence it will be a bit messy. FYI, some purist even do away without any rear speakers!

Usually normal car speakers are 4 ohm avg. impedance. Those which can be lower are usually the subs. The lower the impedance, the more power will be delivered to the speakers and it will get louder. However your amp also must be able to drive at such low impedance or else it will get overheated and burnt!

Thanks bro. Now I feel more reassured to go the way like what Izso suggested. Amps for front components and rear subwoof. Rear directly from head unit. Normal 2 ways speakers for rear instead of components.

And thanks for the explanation on ohms. Really learn a lot from you guys here.

 

[Izso]

Lol I no sifu la..

And thanks for you advice!!! You really hit the bullseye. I never thought of that. Using amp for the front component sets and rear subwoof! Well I don't have a budget in mind. But as low as possible. I hope 300. Since nowadays people sell speakers and amps in bundle prices, I think I may get just around 400.

Just one concern... If I use amp for front components and the rear woofer, and my rear speakers (near the headrest, not the doors) directly from the HU, won't that be a bit imbalance? Will it sound ugly and silent at the back? Like the sound will sound really nice and clear and the back will be overpowered by the bass. If not, I really don't mind using your setup.

---------- Post added at 10:19 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:17 PM ----------

Oh and I do not know about the rear whether 1 ohm or 2 ohm or what... I don't even know there is a difference and what it does. Im an idiot in these sound things. I just sent it to the shop and ask them to do it. I just know whether it's nice to hear or not

Ok this is the setup for my old car - 4 channel amp powering front component speakers and sub. The rear speakers (in the rear doors) are powered by the player. I then set the fader to 80% front (amp) and 20% rear (speakers directly powered by player). The rear then just fills or compliments the setup. Never put it too loud otherwise it'll just overpower everything.

Oh btw, since all your speakers are gone, you might as well save some money and completely remove the rear speakers. Just have front components and a sub. That's all you really need anyway.

RM400 I honestly doubt you'd get anything remotely decent sounding! Probably a lot of cheapass brands and what not. If you were in KL I'd poison you with my setup

Actually if you were in KL I'd do the install for you. Would make for an interesting DIY article.

Since you're looking to cut costs, forget about replacing the rear speakers if they are spoilt. Just spend on front components and a 4-channel amp. Sell off your 2-channel (or trade in if the shop allows) and offset the cost there.

 

[Veloc]

Ok this is the setup for my old car - 4 channel amp powering front component speakers and sub. The rear speakers (in the rear doors) are powered by the player. I then set the fader to 80% front (amp) and 20% rear (speakers directly powered by player). The rear then just fills or compliments the setup. Never put it too loud otherwise it'll just overpower everything.

Oh btw, since all your speakers are gone, you might as well save some money and completely remove the rear speakers. Just have front components and a sub. That's all you really need anyway.

RM400 I honestly doubt you'd get anything remotely decent sounding! Probably a lot of cheapass brands and what not. If you were in KL I'd poison you with my setup

Actually if you were in KL I'd do the install for you. Would make for an interesting DIY article.

Since you're looking to cut costs, forget about replacing the rear speakers if they are spoilt. Just spend on front components and a 4-channel amp. Sell off your 2-channel (or trade in if the shop allows) and offset the cost there.

I know 400 is a bit too low. But until I saw this guy in zth selling A bundle of front 6.5" midbass, rear 6x9" midbass and a 4 channel amp all for rm 300! And hey are all pioneer. My plan is to get that set and try to upgrade the front speakers to components.

i don't know if they are ori or not. I got to call to ask. And eventually check with pioneer via serial no. I don't really mind about the amp brand but as for speakers, I need them to be ori.

 

[Izso]

That's dirt cheap. Especially for Pioneer! It's either (really old) 2nd hand or 100% fake.

Do you know what brand and model is your sub? Don't simply buy an amp thinking it'll match your sub. Give me the model and brand and I'll tell you what you need.

 

[xbalance2002]

now days most of the big brand product is made in china, what brand offer best quality for low price.

which amp have less heat issue as our car most of the time park under the sun....

 

[Veloc]

That's dirt cheap. Especially for Pioneer! It's either (really old) 2nd hand or 100% fake.

Do you know what brand and model is your sub? Don't simply buy an amp thinking it'll match your sub. Give me the model and brand and I'll tell you what you need.

Pioneers now are all made in china. And besides, they are the entry level 2-way speaker. No high end stuff. but I will have to buy it once then I know. I'll check the serial no.

My sub's brand is American Sound. It's a 12" size. Not sure is that a good brand or ayam brand. And is there so much tech consideration even to buy an amp? What is there to consideR?

 

[Izso]

Pioneers now are all made in china. And besides, they are the entry level 2-way speaker. No high end stuff. but I will have to buy it once then I know. I'll check the serial no.

My sub's brand is American Sound. It's a 12" size. Not sure is that a good brand or ayam brand. And is there so much tech consideration even to buy an amp? What is there to consideR?

I guess it's just a matter of maximising what you have. American Sound? Erm.. not good but it's better than having no sub at all.

The reason why I said you must pair it properly is like this. Say your sub is a dual voice coil 4ohm. When you wire that up parallel it's impedance is 2ohm. If you wire it up series it's 8ohm. 8ohm bass is weak and very soft and most of time is found on home hifi. In a car it's not ideal. So you'll want 2ohm.

If your amp doesn't support 2ohm and you wire it up that way, you'll fry the amp if unlucky. In most cases amps will have an automatic cutoff circuit. If the amp supports 4ohm, then you can only use 4ohm or higher (like 8ohm). Lower will fry it.

So if you buy a 4-channel, 2 channels will be used to power the front. This is most of the time easy to do since most components run on 4ohm and most amps power at 4ohm. Just a matter of finding the right power for the components (if the RMS for the components is 80w and your amp is outputting 80w, then you're powering it up nicely. If your amp is only capable of 40w, then you're underutilising the components and it probably won't sound as good as powered with 80w.

The remaining 2 channels will be "bridged" to give you a single channel since the sub is a single speaker (not stereo). Depending on what the amp is capable of, you'll need to match it with your American Sound sub. I need to know the model of your sub to be able to tell you what amp will go with it. Most likely means you'll need to take it out of the box to see the model number at the back on the magnet.

 

[vr2turbo]

Pioneers now are all made in china. And besides, they are the entry level 2-way speaker. No high end stuff. but I will have to buy it once then I know. I'll check the serial no.

My sub's brand is American Sound. It's a 12" size. Not sure is that a good brand or ayam brand. And is there so much tech consideration even to buy an amp? What is there to consideR?

Many brands are now made in China. As long as they are original then okay...

 

[Veloc]

I guess it's just a matter of maximising what you have. American Sound? Erm.. not good but it's better than having no sub at all.

The reason why I said you must pair it properly is like this. Say your sub is a dual voice coil 4ohm. When you wire that up parallel it's impedance is 2ohm. If you wire it up series it's 8ohm. 8ohm bass is weak and very soft and most of time is found on home hifi. In a car it's not ideal. So you'll want 2ohm.

If your amp doesn't support 2ohm and you wire it up that way, you'll fry the amp if unlucky. In most cases amps will have an automatic cutoff circuit. If the amp supports 4ohm, then you can only use 4ohm or higher (like 8ohm). Lower will fry it.

So if you buy a 4-channel, 2 channels will be used to power the front. This is most of the time easy to do since most components run on 4ohm and most amps power at 4ohm. Just a matter of finding the right power for the components (if the RMS for the components is 80w and your amp is outputting 80w, then you're powering it up nicely. If your amp is only capable of 40w, then you're underutilising the components and it probably won't sound as good as powered with 80w.

The remaining 2 channels will be "bridged" to give you a single channel since the sub is a single speaker (not stereo). Depending on what the amp is capable of, you'll need to match it with your American Sound sub. I need to know the model of your sub to be able to tell you what amp will go with it. Most likely means you'll need to take it out of the box to see the model number at the back on the magnet.

Oh my God . I do understand your explanation. Thanks for taking the time. But just... Oh my God

 

[twistedichc]

Oh my God . I do understand your explanation. Thanks for taking the time. But just... Oh my God

if it is me, i'd just match the amps with the speakers max wattage & use a pre-amp to control the sound output & it will help to maximize ur crossover output, unless u r really 1 hella hardcore ICE person, then i'd go wit sifu Izso advise