your auto-chock may need to be replaced or serviced. carb may be dirty.. use carb cleaner instead.. don't use water.. too much water you risk bending your conrods when u try cranking later.. fuel filter changed?
---------- Post added at 06:16 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
over the years of operation, carbon is building up in your combustion chamber.. that carbon is causing the cylinder pressure to be artificially high.. which causes knocking when you are accelerating.. to solve this problem, clean the piston and cylinder chamber by 3 possible methods.
1. Cylinder / Combustion cleaner... inserted via the carb or intake manifold.. produces white/black smoke for a while. if not solve;
2. Retard the ignition a little.. (but this also will make your engine less powerful if the ignition timing is not as per the manufacturer recommendation)
3. Top overhaul required.
I think i can see the auto chock on side view from the left. I see a 12V wire leading into it? So an auto chock dun have any nuts i could fine tune near the carb? Will turning the ignition key to ON position for a few minutes b4 i crank makes it easier to start? Since the ON position will supply power to warm up the chock maybe?
Yes, when the previous owner pass me the car, oil is too little and too dirty. There is also leaking engine oil on the left side near the edge, not at the valve cover but just below the valve cover. And also on the right most, got 1 spark plug where its threads will cover with black oil when u take the plug out and look at its threads but the plug hole does not leak oil out, just that when u take out the plug, u will see black oil coat its threads but the plug's firing tip is not cover with oil, its just normal, color also great, grey brown. Other plugs are all well.
Fuel filter not yet change. Can a clean fuel filter help me save fuel?
Can floor the pedal in N helps blow away carbon in carb and combustion chamber?
There was once my friend's kancil will stall on highway when the engine get around
3k rpm, so his car cant get pass 3k rpm or the engine will stall. Happened each time.
And so he took to pomen and the pomen floor it few times and now ok already. Wonder whats the theory rev up the engine like that?
Maybe i may try to loosen the screw to the distributor and turn it a little. Once i have enuff info, i might do it. To move to the retard direction, i need turn clock wise or anti clock wise? I think i will take small steps to turn it very tiny turn each time i take the car for a ride till i dun hear a knock no more. Specs on the wall says 5 degree BTDC if i rememeber correctly while my Hynes Proton Saga Repair manual saying 10 degree BTDC.
May i ask, below the steering on the right there is a knob with a light bulb picture on it, that one is to tune the brightness of the meter display lamp, rite? What about the square knob on the left? Any idea?
