SagaFLX stuttering idle

[driftkingII]

Yeah, it did some "horsing" around like u described but only when im in idle or at slow speeds (<10 kph with feet of the gas pedal). Stops immediately as i apply some throttle...

I did came across that info abt the ECU's ... so far i haven't experience starting problems but a while back it tend to do this thing (though not often), where after filling up petrol, i start the car n the engine immediately rev up to 3k+ rpm on it's own... i had to turn off n re-start it to drive away normally. Lucky i haven't changed my muffler yet

For me it happens but after servicing at PSC it is ok n will come back again when near the service date. According to PSC, it is common for Saga FLX CVT.

Right now I am waiting for my ECU upgrade as claimed by the PSC, they said the root cause of why sometimes my car cannot start is bcoz of the ECU.

This is the thread
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/proton/447904-saga-flx-issue-help-me.html

 

[MetaruBZG]

For me it happens but after servicing at PSC it is ok n will come back again when near the service date. According to PSC, it is common for Saga FLX CVT.

Right now I am waiting for my ECU upgrade as claimed by the PSC, they said the root cause of why sometimes my car cannot start is bcoz of the ECU.

This is the thread
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/proton/447904-saga-flx-issue-help-me.html

Thx for the info. I'm sorry to say, but when comes to saga issues they (sc) don't know or not familiar, they always say "Biasa la tu, tak ada masalah. Bole bawak je mcm biasa" (That's normal, no problem. You can drive normally)

Will wait for any official "firmware" update news though.

It's a stepper motor that controls the idling passage but my mistake Campro don't have it Peugeot have

Metaru, sorry for my wrong info there's no idle controller for the Campro the hose is for the vacuum. But the problem is to do with the TB...

Owh ok. No problem

 

[MetaruBZG]

As of this instant car cant start. Crank sound like not enuff power.

Ecu reports nothing, tried pulling the ecu fuse n then plug back in... no avail.

Battery now at 10.5v... so tried jumping with another fresh battery (car parked beside small main road cant do car to car jump).... same outcome, no start.

Do i need new ecu? Stuck at frens house for now.

---------- Post added at 02:02 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 01:52 AM ----------

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/es22st9o74ewonk/AAD15flM2Y8wcKcXdTRtIMuca

Sry i dont know how to paste video here

 

[peeche]

As of this instant car cant start. Crank sound like not enuff power.

Ecu reports nothing, tried pulling the ecu fuse n then plug back in... no avail.

Battery now at 10.5v... so tried jumping with another fresh battery (car parked beside small main road cant do car to car jump).... same outcome, no start.

Do i need new ecu? Stuck at frens house for now.

---------- Post added at 02:02 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 01:52 AM ----------

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/es22st9o74ewonk/AAD15flM2Y8wcKcXdTRtIMuca

Sry i dont know how to paste video here

Swap your battery instead of jumpering it.

 

[MetaruBZG]

Swap your battery instead of jumpering it.

Did that as well... still same


Left the ecu offline (removed fuse) overnight in an effort to reset it completely. Tried this morning to start, same as last night. Friend who had same problem last year recommend go to proton 3s for ECU replacement.:rolleyes:

---------- Post added at 02:45 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:05 AM ----------

Unable to start problem fixed. Apparently, the ECU can't work (crank up the engine via relays) when battery voltage is below 11 volts (where as normal i measured was 12.4V~). With such a small margin, i can only wonder what the engineers were thinking!

After trying to jump start with another car (exhausted all ideas by now and coincidentally had a new battery) my car managed to start. So gambled and changed to a similar spec battery (45AH) and my car starts like normal again. Will change to 60AH battery later on to stabilize power (battery dealer said).

Sorry for my last few posts being off topic.

Stuttering problem, as expected, is gone for now due to ecu reset. But will happen again for sure in a few days time.

 

[Izso]

It's really beginning to sound like ECU problem

 

[stupidcar]

Will uprating a battery hurt the electrical system?
Was intro-ed a DIN55 instead of DIN45.

 

[MetaruBZG]

It's really beginning to sound like ECU problem

I hope not. But could the program be to blame as well? I.e. bad mapping?

Will uprating a battery hurt the electrical system?
Was intro-ed a DIN55 instead of DIN45.

I personally don't think so. My wife's wira is using a Ns60 battery and that came with a 70 amp alternator. While the flx comes with a 90 amp alternator, so i think it should be able to accommodate the Ns60, which i believe would act as a better power buffer than the Ns45 stock battery.

Just my two sens anyways

 

[adlans]

Had a chat with my mech yesterday as my wife's car is also experiencing the same prob (jerking while reversing and cannot start). It has something to do with our gearbox. Im gonna sent that car to Proton to have my gearbox check and claim. Just waiting for my mech to give me the greenlight where to sent the car.

cheers

 

[Izso]

Will uprating a battery hurt the electrical system?
Was intro-ed a DIN55 instead of DIN45.

Hurt? No. Take longer to fully charge? Yes. The battery itself may not last as long if you don't drive it long enough to fully charge it. But typically they last 2 years anyway so doesn't matter la. Unless you need it for ICE, don't bother uprating.

 

[peeche]

It might be TCU or ECU problem. Try by swapping with friend with same car but not encounter the same issue.

 

[stupidcar]

Hurt? No. Take longer to fully charge? Yes. The battery itself may not last as long if you don't drive it long enough to fully charge it. But typically they last 2 years anyway so doesn't matter la. Unless you need it for ICE, don't bother uprating.

The thing is, its almost the same price, and somehow I see more of them.

 

[driftkingII]

Had a chat with my mech yesterday as my wife's car is also experiencing the same prob (jerking while reversing and cannot start). It has something to do with our gearbox. Im gonna sent that car to Proton to have my gearbox check and claim. Just waiting for my mech to give me the greenlight where to sent the car.

cheers

kinda similar like mine once upon a time. The reverse jerking, according to PSC it is common for FLX models.

cannot start, PSC said ECU, btw they did not call me for the ECU upgrade whatsoever. I am sure the cannot start happens once in a blue moon bcoz for me it happens rarely and once in a blue moon.

 

[DanzEterna]

could it be one of your sensors, possibly the crank sensor

 

[MetaruBZG]

Hurt? No. Take longer to fully charge? Yes. The battery itself may not last as long if you don't drive it long enough to fully charge it. But typically they last 2 years anyway so doesn't matter la. Unless you need it for ICE, don't bother uprating.

Can a bigger battery act as a sort of voltage stabilizer due to it's larger capacity?

Since i had this low power issue, im starting to wonder if voltage fluctuations may be one of the cause for these stuttering.

 

[Izso]

Can a bigger battery act as a sort of voltage stabilizer due to it's larger capacity?

Since i had this low power issue, im starting to wonder if voltage fluctuations may be one of the cause for these stuttering.

If it fits try la. Bigger battery no harm. Just that the battery may not last as long only (1.5 years as opposed to 2 years for example).

 

[MetaruBZG]

If it fits try la. Bigger battery no harm. Just that the battery may not last as long only (1.5 years as opposed to 2 years for example).

I see, just curious though, why not last as long? Is it because it's hardly full charge since full charge takes longer?:hmmmm:

Asked the battery dealer, say to put NS60 battery have to mod the battery area base / tapak.


Already day 3, still no stuttering but car seems to be more responsive during mid day (last time fell very laggish). Because ecu reset?:stupid:

 

[Izso]

Our car battery is like our cellphone batteries. First charge is for 8 hours to "program" the battery to recognize the maximum limit. If you drain your battery completely it'll recognize that as the "zero" mark as well. So if you don't fully charge your battery all the time, it'll recognize that "top" as the max charge. So yes, it'll die off faster. But not by much la.